Climbs 128
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 567m a.s.l
Faces S

The new kid's parcours on the Via Ferrata at Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

Dominating the skyline above Buis-les-Baronnies, Saint Julien is an enormous fin of rock that simply begs to be climbed. The routes are, with a few exceptions, brilliant, often taking strong natural lines in two or more pitches, to reach the ridge. Saint Julien is particularly appealing to climbers operating between 5 and 6b, though there are a number of excellent harder routes that pick their way up to smooth vertical faces.

The cliff is south-facing, and gets plenty of sun. On windy days being on the top of the cliff can feel like you're in the middle of a hurricane, even though the base may be quite sheltered.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from Buis-les Baronnies. At the north end of the town, cross the green bridge over the river and turn left, then take the first right past the campground and swimming pool. Follow the road towards the crag, the north face of which is in plain view. First there is a large parking on the left, mainly for walkers and via feratta-ists, followed by a small parking area on the right (identified by a small cable bridge) that gives access to via ferattas on both sides of the road. Further on is a new large parking area on both sides of the road just before a sharp right turn. This one can be identified by a dry toilet building on the right and a large FFME notice board at the start of the path, on the left. From here follow the climbers path which has now been re-routed somewhat, but is very defined in its lower part by a ferocious electric fence. Where it meets a steep wide incline, take the narrow path on the left, often marked by a cairn. This path arrives at the crag at the bottom of Gastronome and then continues along the whole of the foot of the crag. The steep monotonous incline should be avoided as it is closed off by the electric fence some way above this junction/cairn.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Le rocher de saint-julien (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Via Ferrata 
2La PitchouneVF2A **6
3La TestouriassoVF3C 6
4La Roumpo QuieuVF3D 4
5La TihoussoVF3C 3
 Secteur du Dinosaur 
7Le Voie des Arêtes
-
4c 2
8Yoyo
-
4c  
9Planetoide
-
7a  
10Le Ticket Chic
-
6b  
11La Loi du Talion
-
6a+  
12Equation du Monde
-
6a+ 1
13Le Retour du Talion
-
6a  
14T'en as Jamais vu Autant Raoul
-
6b  
15The Wall6b 2
16Mercurobrobe
-
7a 2
17Plastie
-
6b+  
18Unamed
-
6a+  
19Le GasteropodeHS  
 Secteur de L'Espadon 
21Eric à Pic4a 11
22Le Petit Cheval4c 14
23La Plante à Scion5c *12
24Trop de Vin Rouge6a *17
25Prise de Tête6a *9
26Amour viens vite7a ***1
27La Grotte6a ***66
28Thieves in the Temple6c+ ***3
29Love on the Bite6c+ ***4
30L'Espadon5c ***29
31Équinoxe6c **7
32Électrochoc7a ***5
 Secteur du Gastronome 
34La Gastronome5c **36
35La Gastronome du Gris6a *14
36Ça Va Saigner6c *2
37L'Aéroplane Blindé7a ** 
38Le Bandar Fou6c ***6
39Planéité7a+ **1
40Le Salaire de la Peur7b+ ** 
41L'Aéroplane6b **3
42L'Aéroplane Direct6b **5
 Secteur du Pilier Gris 
44Xinibition6a **10
45L'Univers des Rêves6b+ **5
46Tao6a *4
47Y Mao6a *2
48Le Pilier Gris5c ***28
 Secteur des Guêpes 
50Les Initiateurs6a *1
51Les Guêpes (Normale)5a **20
52La Directe des Guêpes6a *3
53Les Trois Mousquetons6b ***4
54La Zaza6b *2
 Secteur du Nez 
56Shanti6a+ * 
57La Madelon6a+ *1
58Pacha6c+ ***2
59Hypercubitus6c+ *2
60Le Nez6a **5
61Force Majeure7a *1
 Secteur des Cigales 
63Des Pieds, Des Mains6a **6
64Des Pieds, Des Mains Direct7a 1
65Le Barbarin Fourchu6c+ *2
66Les Dieux Vivants6c+ *1
67Clash6b+ *1
68La Gouttière6a+ *2
69Les Cigales6a+ *3
70Route 666b+ 2
 Secteur des Lames 
72Bibus5c **11
73Ubick7a+ *** 
74Bibus Directe6a+ ***5
75Désir6c+ ***2
76Les Lames6b ***7
77Pandémonium6c ***4
78Tango Funèbre7a+ **2
79Tango Panaché7a **1
80La Directissime6b ***10
 Secteur de la Rampe 
82Éclair d'Absurdité7a+ ** 
83Charter pour l'Enfer7b+ ** 
84Charter pour l'Enfer P16b+ **1
85La Parat-Paris7a **3
86Tannhäuser6b+ **5
87La Rampe6a+ ***15
88Strings of Life7a **1
89Osiris6b *3
90Horus6c **1
91Je Suis Charlie6c+ *2
92La Tournyaire5c ***17
93La Xafred6a+ **2
94La Bouscaude Direct5c **7
95La Bouscaude Normale5c *7
 Secteur de la Mésange 
97La Mésange6c *4
98Urgence d'Vivre5c * 
99Pilier du 7ème ciel6c  
100L'œuf de Pâques6c *1
101Fleur de Rêves6c **2
102Les Dalles6c *3
 Secteur des Trous 
104Les 3 P6a *4
105La Directs du Bastion6a *3
106O l'Oubliée6a *3
107La Voie des Trous5c ***20
 Secteur du Hibou 
109Le Pilier des Trous6a+ ***9
110Via Ferrata3 ***8
111La Cour des Miracles7a * 
112Le Rouge et le Noir7a * 
113Le Hibou6c  
114Alian5c 3
 Secteur du Clocher 
116Anaxagore7b * 
117La Françoise6a+ **6
118L'Éperon de la Croix5c ***5
119Super Phoenix7a *1
120La Directe du Clocher7b **1
121Les Grands Boulevards6b * 
122Nick Jo6b ** 
123NEW
-
6c  
124Tranquille Coucounet5c *2
125Ramonage Guaranti6a+ * 
126Prends-la Comme Elle Vient6c *** 
127La Momie "Libérée6b ***2
128Globe
-
7a  
129Harlem
-
6c+  
130Trotters
-
6c+  
131Phenomenologue
-
6b 2
132Bleauserie
-
6b+  
133Couennerie
-
6c  
134Metro-Metako
-
6a+ 1
 Secteur du Miroir 
136Rod Grod Med Flode
-
6b  
137If Faut en Sortir
-
6b  
138Slide
-
6  
 Secteur du W 
 Secteur du Trou de Canon 
141La Dulf
-
6b+  
142Fais ton Choix
-
6b  
143Belle de Nord
-
6b  
144Survol du Trou
-
5c  
145O.J.M
-
5a  

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