Climbs 129
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 567m a.s.l
Faces S

The new kid's parcours on the Via Ferrata at Buis les Baronnies. © Enty

Crag features

Dominating the skyline above Buis-les-Baronnies, Saint Julien is an enormous fin of rock that simply begs to be climbed. The routes are, with a few exceptions, brilliant, often taking strong natural lines in two or more pitches, to reach the ridge. Saint Julien is particularly appealing to climbers operating between 5 and 6b, though there are a number of excellent harder routes that pick their way up to smooth vertical faces.

The cliff is south-facing, and gets plenty of sun. On windy days being on the top of the cliff can feel like you're in the middle of a hurricane, even though the base may be quite sheltered.

Approach notes

The crag is approached from Buis-les Baronnies. At the north end of the town, cross the green bridge over the river and turn left, then take the first right past the campground and swimming pool. Follow the road towards the crag, the north face of which is in plain view. First there is a large parking on the left, mainly for walkers and via feratta-ists, followed by a small parking area on the right (identified by a small cable bridge) that gives access to via ferattas on both sides of the road. Further on is a new large parking area on both sides of the road just before a sharp right turn. This one can be identified by a dry toilet building on the right and a large FFME notice board at the start of the path, on the left. From here follow the climbers path which has now been re-routed somewhat, but is very defined in its lower part by a ferocious electric fence. Where it meets a steep wide incline, take the narrow path on the left, often marked by a cairn. This path arrives at the crag at the bottom of Gastronome and then continues along the whole of the foot of the crag. The steep monotonous incline should be avoided as it is closed off by the electric fence some way above this junction/cairn.

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Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Le rocher de saint-julien (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Via Ferrata
2 La Pitchoune VF2A ** 7
3 La Testouriasso VF3C 6
4 La Roumpo Quieu VF3D 4
5 La Tihousso VF3C 4
  Secteur du Dinosaur
7 Le Voie des Arêtes
-
4c 2
8 Yoyo
-
4c  
9 Planetoide
-
7a  
10 Le Ticket Chic
-
6b  
11 La Loi du Talion
-
6a+  
12 Equation du Monde
-
6a+ 1
13 Le Retour du Talion
-
6a  
14 T'en as Jamais vu Autant Raoul
-
6b  
15 The Wall 6b 2
16 Mercurobrobe
-
7a 2
17 Plastie
-
6b+  
18 Unamed
-
6a+  
19 Le Gasteropode HS  
  Secteur de L'Espadon
21 Eric à Pic 4a 11
22 Le Petit Cheval 4c 14
23 La Plante à Scion 5c * 12
24 Trop de Vin Rouge 6a * 17
25 Prise de Tête 6a * 9
26 Amour viens vite 7a *** 1
27 La Grotte 6a *** 65
28 Thieves in the Temple 6c+ *** 3
29 Love on the Bite 6c+ *** 4
30 L'Espadon 5c *** 29
31 Équinoxe 6c ** 7
32 Électrochoc 7a *** 5
  Secteur du Gastronome
34 La Gastronome 5c ** 36
35 La Gastronome du Gris 6a * 14
36 Ça Va Saigner 6c * 2
37 L'Aéroplane Blindé 7a **  
38 Le Bandar Fou 6c *** 6
39 Planéité 7a+ ** 1
40 Le Salaire de la Peur 7b+ **  
41 L'Aéroplane 6b ** 3
42 L'Aéroplane Direct 6b ** 5
  Secteur du Pilier Gris
44 Xinibition 6a ** 10
45 L'Univers des Rêves 6b+ ** 5
46 Tao 6a * 4
47 Y Mao 6a * 2
48 Le Pilier Gris 5c *** 29
  Secteur des Guêpes
50 Les Initiateurs 6a * 1
51 Les Guêpes (Normale) 5a ** 21
52 La Directe des Guêpes 6a * 3
53 Les Trois Mousquetons 6b *** 4
54 La Zaza 6b * 2
  Secteur du Nez
56 Shanti 6a+ *  
57 La Madelon 6a+ * 1
58 Pacha 6c+ *** 2
59 Hypercubitus 6c+ * 2
60 Le Nez 6a ** 5
61 Force Majeure 7a * 1
  Secteur des Cigales
63 Des Pieds, Des Mains 6a ** 6
64 Des Pieds, Des Mains Direct 7a 1
65 Le Barbarin Fourchu 6c+ * 2
66 Les Dieux Vivants 6c+ * 1
67 Clash 6b+ * 1
68 La Gouttière 6a+ * 2
69 Les Cigales 6a+ * 3
70 Route 66 6b+ 2
  Secteur des Lames
72 Bibus 5c ** 11
73 Ubick 7a+ ***  
74 Bibus Directe 6a+ *** 5
75 Désir 6c+ *** 2
76 Les Lames 6b *** 7
77 Pandémonium 6c *** 4
78 Tango Funèbre 7a+ ** 2
79 Tango Panaché 7a ** 1
80 La Directissime 6b *** 10
  Secteur de la Rampe
82 Éclair d'Absurdité 7a+ **  
83 Charter pour l'Enfer 7b+ **  
84 Charter pour l'Enfer P1 6b+ ** 1
85 La Parat-Paris 7a ** 3
86 Tannhäuser 6b+ ** 5
87 La Rampe 6a+ *** 15
88 Strings of Life 7a ** 1
89 Osiris 6b * 3
90 Horus 6c ** 1
91 Je Suis Charlie 6c+ * 2
92 La Tournyaire 5c *** 18
93 La Xafred 6a+ ** 3
94 La Bouscaude Direct 5c ** 7
95 La Bouscaude Normale 5c * 7
  Secteur de la Mésange
97 La Mésange 6c * 4
98 Urgence d'Vivre 5c *  
99 Pilier du 7ème ciel 6c  
100 L'œuf de Pâques 6c * 1
101 Fleur de Rêves 6c ** 2
102 Les Dalles 6c * 3
  Secteur des Trous
104 Les 3 P 6a * 4
105 La Directs du Bastion 6a * 3
106 O l'Oubliée 6a * 3
107 La Voie des Trous 5c *** 19
  Secteur du Hibou
109 Le Pilier des Trous 6a+ *** 9
110 Via Ferrata 3 *** 8
111 La Cour des Miracles 7a *  
112 Le Rouge et le Noir 7a *  
113 Le Hibou 6c  
114 Alian 5c 3
  Secteur du Clocher
116 Anaxagore 7b *  
117 La Françoise 6a+ ** 6
118 L'Éperon de la Croix 5c *** 5
119 Super Phoenix 7a * 1
120 La Directe du Clocher 7b ** 1
121 Les Grands Boulevards 6b *  
122 Nick Jo 6b **  
123 NEW
-
6c  
124 Tranquille Coucounet 5c * 2
125 Ramonage Guaranti 6a+ *  
126 Prends-la Comme Elle Vient 6c ***  
127 La Momie "Libérée 6b *** 2
128 Globe
-
7a  
129 Harlem
-
6c+  
130 Trotters
-
6c+  
131 Phenomenologue
-
6b 2
132 Bleauserie
-
6b+  
133 Couennerie
-
6c  
134 Metro-Metako
-
6a+ 1
  Secteur du Miroir
136 Rod Grod Med Flode
-
6b  
137 If Faut en Sortir
-
6b  
138 Slide
-
6  
  Secteur du W
  Secteur du Trou de Canon
141 La Dulf
-
6b+  
142 Fais ton Choix
-
6b  
143 Belle de Nord
-
6b  
144 Survol du Trou
-
5c  
145 O.J.M
-
5a  
146 La traversée des arêtes 5a 1

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