Climbs 298
Rocktype Welded Tuff
Altitude 190m a.s.l
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Clint Maskell grabbing the 3rd ascent of this truly stunning line! Sacrificial Offering (7b+) © Crimpington Bear

Crag features

Tors and boulders scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill. The rocks formed the top of a volcano before it erupted.

A new guidebook is currently being written by Ben Turner and the most up to date draft can be found at CademanBouldering.com

For more info see the online version of the old Leicestershire Climbs guidebook.

Approach notes

###the owner came and spoke to us whilst climbing and asked politely that nobody uses the fence as he has to rebuild it. Please use the kissing gate instead!!! ###

See maps here and here.

Parking Spots:

Broad Hill and Cademan Wood: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

Grimley's Rock Parking: Roadside (GPS Coordinates).

Hob's Hole Crag & Cademan Roadside: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

High Cademan and Pinnacle Crag: Free Car Park (GPS Coordinates).

 

Access Advice

Cademan Roadside is now privatly owned and the owner has asked climbers to please use the access gate rather than climbing the wall.

Guidebooks

I've been visiting Cademan once a fortnight over the summer and this place never ceases to amaze me! I'm always finding new boulders and small crags - some of which aren't in the UKC guide. It's a good idea to bring a wire brush, although the rock at Twentysteps is as clean as a whistle. Great place!
martin curtis - 31/Oct/19
The worst bouldering in the country.
Laurence Everitt - 20/Sep/19
Is this the crag in Cademan Wood with the trig point on top? If not, does anyone have a grid ref?
NobbyClark - 27/Aug/13
A visit prompted by the Climber magazine article in July 2013. Some nice problems, but some parts a bit overgrown with summer ferns and brambles.
jack89 - 08/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1 - Broad Hill
  Cavalry Rock
3 Crack of Wales f6C+ * 27
4 The Welshy f7B+ 1
5 Little Llanberis f6B+ ** 52
6 Top Traverse f5+ * 35
7 Whale Fin f5 22
8 Whale City f6B * 18
9 Whale Arête f5 16
  Hidden Wall
11 Orinoco f3+ 18
12 Short Wall f4+ 17
13 Short Ledge f4 17
14 Bulgarete f5+ 23
15 Uncle Bulagaria f4 29
16 Bulgaright f4 28
17 Bungo’s Arête f5+ 31
18 Bungo f6A+ ** 27
19 Bulagaria’s Girdle f4 15
20 Hidden Arête f4+ 12
21 High Ledge f4 11
22 Covert Crack f6B+ 13
23 Private Pinch f6B+ 12
24 Hidden Wall f6A+ 16
25 Secret Womble f6A+ 10
  Brap Ya Mum
27 Brap Ya Mum f5+ 26
28 Slap Ya Mum f6A+ 10
  Pirate Block
30 Easy Cracks f3 25
31 Pirate Slap f5 * 25
32 Greenbeard f7A 7
33 The Ramp f4+ 19
34 The Ramp Direct f3+ 19
35 Pirate Fever f7A ** 13
  Twentysteps Area
37 Twenty Steps Arête f6A 4
38 Cutaway f6C 4
39 The Ripper f6B+ * 32
40 Big Flake f6B+ ** 69
41 Let ‘Er Rip V6 1
42 Right Arete f4 45
43 Claustrophobic Slab f5 10
44 Detached Block Left f7A+ 3
45 Detached Block Right f6A 11
46 Detached Wall Left f6A 20
47 Detached Block Wall f4+ ** 49
48 Detached Wall Right f4+ 12
49 Twentysteps Chimney D 22
50 Twentysteps Arete D 29
  Turry Tor
52 Stretch Left V3+ 12
53 Green Goddess V5+ 7
54 On The Edge V7 2
55 Mike's Dyno V6  
56 Turry Tor Arete V5 * 7
57 Suicide Prow V9 1
  The Tooth
59 Megalomaniac f6A+ 7
60 Megalodon's Tooth V2 11
61 Cavity V2 6
62 Traversal V4+ 5
63 Reversal f7A 4
64 Extinct Arête f4 4
  Warthog Boulder
66 Little Slab f3+ 8
67 Twin Crack Groove f4 8
68 Little Prow f5 5
69 The Warthog f6B+ ** 7
70 Backscratcher f6C * 6
  Gonzo Boulder
72 Gonzo's Nose V3 29
73 Crack Only V2 24
74 Gonzo’s Arête f3 11
75 Gonzo’s Back Arête f3 8
76 Gonzo f5+ * 19
77 Rizzo the Rat V1 14
78 Swing the Rat f6A 6
  Reg's Crack
80 Reg Jr. f3 1
81 Reg's Arête f3 8
82 Regs' Crack
-
V0- 4a 16
83 Whirlybird f6A+ 1
  Area 2 - Grimley's Rock
85 Grimley's Groove V0- 4c 5
86 Grim Lee f5+ 10
87 Amrak Eliminate
-
V8+ 1
88 Grimley's Crack Left Hand f6A+ ** 14
89 Grimley's Crack f6A+ * 27
90 Grimley's Crack (Standing Start) V2 14
91 Karma f7A+ *** 11
92 Karma SS V7 *** 2
93 Hard Karma V8 * 2
94 Hard Karma SS V8+ * 2
95 Amrakarma f7B+ ** 2
96 Grimley's Traverse V8 1
97 Amrakarma Extension V8+ 1
98 Grimley's Dream
-
V8+  
99 Clint's 6B
-
V4 2
100 Karma Sutra V8 1
101 Karma Sutra (Hard) V8+  
  Area 3 - Cademan Wood
  Roof Boulder
104 Ram V4 30
105 Tron V5 * 31
106 Flynn V4+ 32
107 Strange Brew f5+ 3
108 Backwards Roly Poly f4 4
109 Scrub f5 3
  Gully Block
111 Gullyver’s Travels f6A+ 21
112 Gullyver’s Excursion f5+ 11
113 Gully Slab f2 3
114 Gully Prow V4+ * 9
  Diamond Block
116 Diamond Shield f5+ ** 68
117 Diamond Left f6B 10
118 Diamond Face f6B 7
119 Diamond Right f6A * 24
Climb name Grade
120 Decrepitation f7B 7
121 Decrepit f6B+ * 1
  Addams Family Boulder
123 Overhanging Arête V3+ * 53
124 Overkill f7B 7
125 Doneover f7C 2
126 Overdone f7B+ 2
127 Crossdresser f7A ** 45
128 Addams Family Values f7A+ *** 42
129 Clint's Eliminate f7B+ 3
130 Budgie f?  
131 Fester’s Slab f2 13
132 Johnny’s Little Helicopter f6A+ 4
  Mike's Little Boulder
134 One Move f7A+ ** 5
135 Flake Pop V4 ** 47
136 Mike's Seams V3 * 54
137 Big Flake V0 46
138 Penny Pincher f6A 14
139 Flake Free Traverse f6C 1
  Juan Block
141 The Other Juan f5+ 15
142 The Power of Juan V6 ** 10
143 When Two Become Juan f6C+ 3
144 Dan’s Arête f4 14
  Star Trek Boulder
146 Jean Luc V6 8
147 Energise f7A+  
148 Warp Drive f6B 7
149 Shut Up Wesley f6B 1
  The Pillars
151 Slice V0 16
152 Thrilling Traverse f5 7
153 The Pillar f5 10
154 Not So Thriller V1 16
155 Lowest of The Low V4 17
156 Lip Up V0 15
157 No Thrills f4 6
158 Thriller f6A 7
  Area 4 - Hob's Hole Crag
  Hobbledehoys
161 Hob’s Big Pinch f6C+  
162 Hobbledehoy Arête f5 2
163 Hobbledehoys V1 * 4
164 Hobbledehoys Right f5 1
  Hobgoblin
166 Hobgoblin V1 5b 7
167 Bugbear f6B+ 2
168 Hob Pocket f3+ 11
169 Empty Pocket f5 7
  Hob's Wall
171 Hobs Crack and Arete V2 10
172 Mike's Move f6C 2
173 Hob's Crack V2 8
174 Captain Cademan f7B 1
175 Hob Along V5 3
176 High Hob f4+ 10
177 Tree Crack f3 6
178 Short Hob f5 1
  Hobbit Area
180 Duplo f3 5
181 Sauron’s Swing f5+ 3
182 Hobbit’s Direct f5+ 3
183 Gimli’s Dream f4 2
  Hobnob Boulder
185 Hobicide Prow f6A 4
186 Hobnob Left f4 5
187 Hobnob Right f4 3
188 Jug Life f4 4
  Rare Slab
190 Hob’s Traverse f5 5
191 Hob’s Contrivance f6A+ 5
192 Rare Slab f3+ 7
193 Rare Slab Arete f3 6
  Winter Sessions
195 Dark Side Arête f5 2
196 White Powder f5+ 2
197 Winter Sessions f6C  
198 Cold Days f5 3
199 Winter Slopes f4+ 2
  Area 5 - High Cademan
  Cracked Boulder
202 Awkward Slab V4 4
203 Cracked Boulder Crack V2 18
204 Cracked Boulder Arête V3 19
205 Mossy Slab V0- 8
206 Cracked boulder crackers right f6A ** 4
207 Grubby Groove f3 1
208 Crackers arête V5+ * 4
  Rooftop Boulder
210 Positive Ape V5 3
211 Call To Mind V7 3
  Perched Block Boulder
213 Perched Block V0+ 9
214 Perched Block Crack V1 4
215 Stihl Air V5+ 3
  Chockstone Roof
217 Prowed V5 *** 11
218 Wobbly Block Arete V4+ 16
219 Cave Arete V3 ** 10
220 Chockstone Roof V4+ 12
221 Miss Direction f7B+  
222 Miss Directed V8 *** 2
223 Sacrificial Offering f7B+ *** 4
224 The Face V3 * 8
  Area 6 - Pinnacle Crag
  The Junction
227 Up The Junction f3+ 4
228 Smear Tactics f6A 4
229 Shame Faced f6C+ 2
230 Traction f5 4
231 Bored Walk f4 1
232 Bored Left f3 1
233 Bored Right f3 1
  Waymark
235 Waymark f5 2
  Downhill Diver
237 Uphill Battle f6A 1
238 Downhill Diver f6A 1
Climb name Grade
  Mini Mantle
240 Mini Mantel f4 2
  Chop
242 Chop f6A+ 1
243 Strawberry f6A 1
  Pinnacle Crag
245 Jumping Jack f6C 5
246 Jack Hammer
-
f7A+ ** 6
247 Relocation Relocation V7 6
248 Relocating Jack V7 4
249 Pinnacle Crack f4 2
250 Curving Arête. f6C 8
251 Steep f6B 5
252 I Am Groot f3 5
253 Left Arête f4 4
254 Paw f4 4
255 Sweet Dee f5 6
256 Right Arête f4 5
257 The Stack f5+ 4
258 Puffin f6A 9
259 Pinnacle Arete Left V1 8
260 Pinnacle Arete Right V0 7
261 Hemmed In f6C 2
262 Column f5 3
263 Column Left f6A 3
264 Tight Slab f6B+ 3
265 Column Right f5+ 2
266 Dirty Prow f3 1
267 Dirty Crack f3 1
  Area 7 - The Allotments
  Shark’s Tooth
270 Shark’s Tooth f6B 3
271 Winky Face f5+ 3
272 LOL f6A+ 2
273 EZPZ f3 3
274 WTF f6C 1
275 Jug Haul f4 4
276 Great Central f5 4
277 Grand Horizontal f6A 3
278 Step Arete f3 3
  Completionist Block
280 Completionist Traverse f5+ 2
281 The Completionist f5 2
  The Egg
283 Eggy Arête f4+ 2
284 The Egg f6B 1
285 Diamond f6C+ 1
286 Juggy f4 2
  Toast
288 Toast Arête f5 3
289 The Flake f6B 4
290 Burn Out f6B 3
291 Bird Brained f6A+ 3
292 The Rockover f5+ 3
293 Crust f4 3
294 Toasted Traverse f6A+ 2
  Rising Ramp
296 Rising Ramp f5+ 2
297 Ramp Up f3 2
298 Stub f3 2
  7th Wall
300 7th Arete f5 2
301 7th Wall f4 2
  Pathside
303 The Path f5+ 2
304 Pathside f5+ 2
305 Pathing f5+ 2
306 Pathos f6B 1
  Holly War
308 Holly Ghost f4+ 2
309 Holly War f4+ 2
  Chossy Cracks
311 Choss Master f5 2
312 Choss Match f5+ 1
313 Right Choss f5+ 1
  Crocodile
315 Croc Traverse f4 2
316 The Crocodile f4 2
  Block X
318 Knacky Ds f6A+ 2
319 Fast Feud f6B 2
320 Bun Slap
-
V6 1
321 Buns f6A 2
  Hobo’s Palace
323 Hobo’s Palace f3 2
324 Attila the Bum f3 2
  Area 8 - Swannymote Rock
326 Avin' It f5  
327 Swanson f4+  
328 Be Gentle (Direct) f5  
329 Juggy Arête f4  
330 Be Gentle f4+  
331 Swan Around f6A  
332 Cygnet f3  
333 Ledges f3  
334 Swannymote Arête f5  
335 Mute f5  
336 Cowabunga f7C  
337 The Boss f5  
338 The Debaser f5  
339 Big Arête f2  
340 Swan Song f3  
341 Swan Song Right f4  
342 Quick Fix f5+  
343 Getafix f6A  
  Area 9 - Poachers’ Corner
345 Flake Slab 1 f3  
346 Flake Slab 2 f3  
347 Poacher's Slab f6A  
348 Jug Fest f3  
349 Green Wall f3  
350 Lee's Problem f4  
  Unknown Problems
352 Split Arete V0- 1
353 Leaning Wall V1 2
354 Hard and Fast V2 5c * 2
355 Sue V0+ 2

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