Climbs 270
Rocktype Welded Tuff
Altitude 190m a.s.l
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Clint Maskell grabbing the 3rd ascent of this truly stunning line! Sacrificial Offering (7b+) © Crimpington Bear

Crag features

Tors and boulders scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill. The rocks formed the top of a volcano before it erupted.

A new guidebook is currently being written by Ben Turner and the most up to date draft can be found at CademanBouldering.com

For more info see the online version of the old Leicestershire Climbs guidebook.

Approach notes

See maps here and here.

Parking Spots:

Broad Hill and Cademan Wood: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

Grimley's Rock Parking: Roadside (GPS Coordinates).

Hob's Hole Crag & Trilobite Plantation: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

High Cademan and Pinnacle Crag: Free Car Park (GPS Coordinates).

Guidebooks

Is this the crag in Cademan Wood with the trig point on top? If not, does anyone have a grid ref?
NobbyClark - 27/Aug/13
A visit prompted by the Climber magazine article in July 2013. Some nice problems, but some parts a bit overgrown with summer ferns and brambles.
jack89 - 08/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1 - Broad Hill
  Cavalry Rock
3 Crack of Wales f6C+ * 23
4 The Welshy f7B+ 1
5 Little Llanberis f6B+ ** 33
6 Top Traverse f5+ * 23
7 Whale Fin f5 10
8 Whale City f6B * 11
9 Whale Arête f5 8
  Hidden Wall
11 Orinoco f3+ 10
12 Short Wall f4+ 10
13 Short Ledge f4 10
14 Bulgarete f5+ 16
15 Uncle Bulagaria f4 18
16 Bulgaright f4 16
17 Bungo’s Arête f5+ 19
18 Bungo f6A+ ** 16
19 Bulagaria’s Girdle f4 9
20 Hidden Arête f4+ 7
21 High Ledge f4 8
22 Covert Crack f6B+ 10
23 Private Pinch f6B+ 11
24 Hidden Wall f6A+ 13
25 Secret Womble f6A+ 8
  Brap Ya Mum
27 Brap Ya Mum f5+ 20
28 Slap Ya Mum f6A+ 9
  Pirate Block
30 Easy Cracks f3 10
31 Pirate Slap f5 * 9
32 Greenbeard f7A 6
33 The Ramp f4+ 7
34 The Ramp Direct f3+ 8
35 Pirate Fever f7A ** 8
  Twentysteps Area
37 Twenty Steps Arête f6A 2
38 Cutaway f6C 3
39 The Ripper f6B+ * 29
40 Big Flake f6B+ ** 52
41 Let ‘Er Rip V6 1
42 Right Arete f4 36
43 Claustrophobic Slab f5 3
44 Detached Block Left f7A+ 3
45 Detached Block Right f6A 9
46 Detached Wall Left f6A 10
47 Detached Block Wall f4+ ** 33
48 Detached Wall Right f4+ 8
49 Twentysteps Chimney D 13
50 Twentysteps Arete D 18
  Turry Tor
52 Stretch Left V3+ 9
53 Green Goddess V5+ 6
54 On The Edge V7 1
55 Mike's Dyno V6  
56 Turry Tor Arete V5 * 7
57 Suicide Prow V9 1
  The Tooth
59 Megalomaniac f6A+ 4
60 Megalodon's Tooth V2 7
61 Cavity V2 5
62 Traversal V4+ 4
63 Reversal f7A 4
64 Extinct Arête f4 3
  Warthog Boulder
66 Little Slab f3+ 4
67 Twin Crack Groove f4 4
68 Little Prow f5 3
69 The Warthog f6B+ ** 6
70 Backscratcher f6C * 5
  Gonzo Boulder
72 Gonzo's Nose V3 25
73 Crack Only V2 24
74 Gonzo’s Arête f3 8
75 Gonzo’s Back Arête f3 4
76 Gonzo f5+ * 20
77 Rizzo the Rat V1 11
78 Swing the Rat f6A 4
  Reg's Crack
80 Reg Jr. f3 3
81 Reg's Arête f3 10
82 Regs' Crack
-
V0- 4a 18
83 Whirlybird f6A+ 1
  Area 2 - Grimley's Rock
85 Grimley's Groove V0- 4c 4
86 Grim Lee f5+ 6
87 Amrak Eliminate
-
V8+ 1
88 Grimley's Crack Left Hand f6A+ ** 11
89 Grimley's Crack f6A+ * 14
90 Grimley's Crack (Standing Start) V2 10
91 Karma f7A+ *** 5
92 Karma SS V7 *** 2
93 Hard Karma V8 * 2
94 Hard Karma SS V8+ * 2
95 Amrakarma f7B+ ** 2
96 Grimley's Traverse V8 1
97 Amrakarma Extension V8+ 1
98 Grimley's Dream
-
V8+  
99 Clint's 6B
-
V4 1
100 Karma Sutra V8 1
101 Karma Sutra (Hard) V8+  
  Area 3 - Cademan Wood
  Roof Boulder
104 Ram V4 27
105 Tron V5 * 24
106 Flynn V4+ 21
107 Strange Brew f5+ 3
108 Backwards Roly Poly f4 4
109 Scrub f5 3
Climb name Grade
  Gully Block
111 Gullyver’s Travels f6A+ 14
112 Gullyver’s Excursion f5+ 7
113 Gully Slab f2 3
114 Gully Prow V4+ * 6
  Diamond Block
116 Diamond Shield f5+ ** 47
117 Diamond Left f6B 5
118 Diamond Face f6B 3
119 Diamond Right f6A * 18
120 Decrepitation f7B 7
  Addams Family Boulder
122 Overhanging Arête V3+ * 38
123 Overkill f7B 7
124 Doneover f7C 1
125 Overdone f7B+ 1
126 Crossdresser f7A ** 25
127 Addams Family Values f7A+ *** 28
128 Clint's Eliminate f7B+ 3
129 Budgie f?  
130 Fester’s Slab f2 6
131 Johnny’s Little Helicopter f6A+ 4
  Mike's Little Boulder
133 One Move f7A+ ** 5
134 Flake Pop V4 ** 38
135 Mike's Seams V3 * 40
136 Big Flake V0 35
137 Penny Pincher f6A 11
138 Flake Free Traverse * f6C  
  Juan Block
140 The Other Juan f5+ 8
141 The Power of Juan V6 ** 5
142 When Two Become Juan f6C+ 1
143 Dan’s Arête f4 10
  Star Trek Boulder
145 Jean Luc V6 4
146 Energise f7A+  
147 Warp Drive f6B 4
148 Shut Up Wesley f6B 1
  The Pillars
150 Slice V0 12
151 Thrilling Traverse f5 5
152 The Pillar f5 6
153 Not So Thriller V1 14
154 Lowest of The Low V4 12
155 Lip Up V0 12
156 No Thrills f4 4
157 Thriller f6A 2
  Area 4 - Hob's Hole Crag
  Hobbledehoys
160 Hob’s Big Pinch f6C+  
161 Hobbledehoy Arête f5 1
162 Hobbledehoys V1 * 4
163 Hobbledehoys Right f5 1
  Hobgoblin
165 Hobgoblin V1 5b 6
166 Bugbear f6B+ 1
167 Hob Pocket f3+ 5
168 Empty Pocket f5 1
  Hob's Wall
170 Hobs Crack and Arete V2 6
171 Mike's Move f6C 1
172 Hob's Crack V2 7
173 Captain Cademan f7B 1
174 Hob Along V5 3
175 High Hob f4+ 6
176 Tree Crack f3 3
177 Short Hob f5 1
  Hobbit Area
179 Duplo f3 3
180 Sauron’s Swing f5+ 2
181 Hobbit’s Direct f5+ 2
182 Gimli’s Dream f4 2
  Hobnob Boulder
184 Hobicide Prow f6A 2
185 Hobnob Left f4 2
186 Hobnob Right f4 2
187 Jug Life f4 2
  Rare Slab
189 Hob’s Traverse f5 4
190 Hob’s Contrivance f6A+ 4
191 Rare Slab f3+ 6
192 Rare Slab Arete f3 5
  Winter Sessions
194 Dark Side Arête f5 2
195 White Powder f5+ 2
196 Winter Sessions f6C  
197 Cold Days f5 3
198 Winter Slopes f4+ 2
  Area 5 - High Cademan
  Cracked Boulder
201 Awkward Slab V4 4
202 Cracked Boulder Crack V2 13
203 Cracked Boulder Arête V3 13
204 Mossy Slab V0- 6
  Rooftop Boulder
206 Positive Ape V5 3
207 Call To Mind V7 3
  Perched Block Boulder
209 Perched Block V0+ 8
210 Perched Block Crack V1 4
211 Stihl Air V5+ 3
  Chockstone Roof
213 Prowed V5 8
214 Wobbly Block Arete V4+ 10
215 Cave Arete V3 ** 6
216 Chockstone Roof V4+ 6
217 Miss Direction f7B+  
218 Miss Directed V8 *** 2
Climb name Grade
219 Sacrificial Offering f7B+ *** 4
220 The Face V3 * 6
  Area 6 - Pinnacle Crag
  The Junction
223 Up The Junction f3+ 4
224 Smear Tactics f6A 4
225 Shame Faced f6C+ 2
226 Traction f5 4
227 Bored Walk f4 1
228 Bored Left f3 1
229 Bored Right f3 1
  Waymark
231 Waymark f5 2
  Downhill Diver
233 Uphill Battle f6A 1
234 Downhill Diver f6A 1
  Mini Mantle
236 Mini Mantel f4 2
  Chop
238 Chop f6A+ 1
239 Strawberry f6A 1
  Pinnacle Crag
241 Jumping Jack f6C 3
242 Jack Hammer
-
f7A+ ** 6
243 Relocation Relocation V7 5
244 Relocating Jack V7 4
245 Pinnacle Crack f4 1
246 Curving Arête. f6C 5
247 Steep f6B 3
248 I Am Groot f3 5
249 Left Arête f4 3
250 Paw f4 3
251 Sweet Dee f5 5
252 Right Arête f4 4
253 The Stack f5+ 3
254 Puffin f6A 7
255 Pinnacle Arete Left V1 7
256 Pinnacle Arete Right V0 6
257 Hemmed In f6C 2
258 Column f5 2
259 Column Left f6A 2
260 Tight Slab f6B+ 2
261 Column Right f5+ 2
262 Dirty Prow f3 1
263 Dirty Crack f3 1
  Area 7 - The Allotments
  Shark’s Tooth
266 Shark’s Tooth f6B 3
267 Winky Face f5+ 2
268 LOL f6A+ 2
269 EZPZ f3 2
270 WTF f6C 1
271 Jug Haul f4 2
272 Great Central f5 2
273 Grand Horizontal f6A 2
274 Step Arete f3 2
  Completionist Block
276 Completionist Traverse f5+ 2
277 The Completionist f5 2
  The Egg
279 Eggy Arête f4+ 2
280 The Egg f6B 1
281 Diamond f6C+ 1
282 Juggy f4 2
  Toast
284 Toast Arête f5 3
285 The Flake f6B 3
286 Burn Out f6B 3
287 Bird Brained f6A+ 3
288 The Rockover f5+ 3
289 Crust f4 3
290 Toasted Traverse f6A+ 2
  Rising Ramp
292 Rising Ramp f5+ 2
293 Ramp Up f3 2
294 Stub f3 2
  7th Wall
296 7th Arete f5 2
297 7th Wall f4 2
  Pathside
299 The Path f5+ 2
300 Pathside f5+ 2
301 Pathing f5+ 2
302 Pathos f6B 1
  Holly War
304 Holly Ghost f4+ 2
305 Holly War f4+ 2
  Chossy Cracks
307 Choss Master f5 2
308 Choss Match f5+ 1
309 Right Choss f5+ 1
  Crocodile
311 Croc Traverse f4 2
312 The Crocodile f4 2
  Block X
314 Knacky Ds f6A+ 2
315 Fast Feud f6B 2
316 Bun Slap
-
V6 1
317 Buns f6A 2
  Hobo’s Palace
319 Hobo’s Palace f3 2
320 Attila the Bum f3 2
  Area 8 - Swannymote Rock
  Area 9 - Poachers’ Corner
  Unknown Problems
324 Split Arete V0- 1
325 Leaning Wall V1 2
326 Hard and Fast V2 5c * 2
327 Sue V0+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Iain McKenzie and Sid Sherborne