UKC

Climbs 205
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 190m a.s.l
Faces all

Clint Maskell grabbing the 3rd ascent of this truly stunning line! Sacrificial Offering (7b+) © Crimpington Bear

Crag features

Granite tors and individual boulders scattered around Cademan Woods and Broad Hill. 

A new guidebook is currently being written and the most up to date draft can be found at CademanBouldering.com. Topo for High Cademan can be found in the old guide at LeicestershireClimbs.co.uk

For more info see the online version of the old Leicestershire Climbs guidebook.

Approach notes

See maps here and here.

Parking Spots:

Broad Hill and Cademan Wood: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

Grimley's Rock Parking: Roadside (GPS Coordinates).

Hob's Hole Crag & Trilobite Plantation: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

High Cademan and Pinnacle Crag: Free Car Park (GPS Coordinates).

Guidebooks

Is this the crag in Cademan Wood with the trig point on top? If not, does anyone have a grid ref?
NobbyClark - 27/Aug/13
A visit prompted by the Climber magazine article in July 2013. Some nice problems, but some parts a bit overgrown with summer ferns and brambles.
jack89 - 08/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1 - Broad Hill
  Cavalry Rock
3 Crack of Wales f7A * 18
4 The Welshy f7B+ 1
5 Little Llanberis f6B+ 26
6 Top Traverse f5+ 16
7 Whale Fin f5 5
8 Whale City f6B * 4
9 Whale Arête f5 6
  Hidden Wall
11 Orinoco f3+ 4
12 Short Wall f4+ 4
13 Short Ledge f4 4
14 Bulgarete f5+ 5
15 Uncle Bulagaria f4 5
16 Bulgaright f4 5
17 Bungo’s Arête f5+ 5
18 Bungo f6A+ ** 7
19 Bulagaria’s Girdle f4 4
20 Hidden Arête f4+ 5
21 High Ledge f4 6
22 Covert Crack f6B+ 5
23 Private Pinch f6B+ 5
24 Hidden Wall f6A+ 8
25 Secret Womble f6A+ 5
  Brap Ya Mum
27 Brap Ya Mum f5+ 15
28 Slap Ya Mum f6A+ 8
  Pirate Block
30 Easy Cracks f3 7
31 Pirate Slap f5 * 6
32 Greenbeard f7A 4
33 The Ramp f4+ 5
34 The Ramp Direct f3+ 6
35 Pirate Fever f7A ** 5
  Twentysteps Area
37 Twenty Steps Arête f6A 1
38 Cutaway f6C 1
39 The Ripper f6C 25
40 Big Flake f6B+ 35
41 Right Arete f4 26
42 Detached Block Left f7A+ 3
43 Detached Block Right f6B 8
44 Detached Block Wall f4 23
45 Twentysteps Chimney D 11
46 Twentysteps Arete D 16
  The Tooth
48 Megalodon's Tooth V2 3
49 Cavity V2 2
50 Traversal V4+ 2
51 Reversal f7A 3
  Turry Tor
53 Turry Tor Arete V5 6
54 Mike's Dyno V6  
55 Stretch Left V3+ 7
56 Green Goddess V5+ 5
57 On The Edge V7 1
58 Suicide Prow V9 1
  Warthog Boulder
60 Little Slab f3+ 3
61 Twin Crack Groove f4 3
62 Little Prow f5 2
63 The Warthog f6B+ ** 2
64 Backscratcher f6C * 3
  Reg's Crack
66 Reg's Arete VB 8
67 Regs' Crack
-
V0- 4a 16
  Gonzo Boulder
69 Gonzo V2 14
70 Gonzo's Nose V3 18
71 Crack Only V2 16
72 Rizzo the Rat V1 6
  Area 2 - Grimley's Rock
74 Grim Lee f5+ 3
75 Grimley's Crack Left Hand f6A+ 5
76 Grimley's Crack f6A+ * 8
77 Grimley's Crack (Standing Start) V2 5
78 Grimley's Groove V0- 4c 3
79 Karma SS V7 2
80 Hard Karma SS V8+ 2
81 Grimley's Dream
-
V8+  
82 Amrak Eliminate
-
V8+ 1
83 Amrakarma f7B+ ** 2
84 Hard Karma
-
V8 2
85 Karma
-
V6 4
Climb name Grade
86 Clint's 6B
-
V4  
87 Grimley's Traverse V8 1
88 Amrakarma Extension V8+ 1
  Area 3 - Cademan Wood
  Roof Boulder
91 Ram V4 19
92 Tron V5 17
93 Flynn V4+ 15
  Gully Block
95 Lip Traverse V2 9
96 Gully Prow V4+ 6
  Diamond Block
98 Diamond Left f6C 5
99 Diamond Shield V3 37
100 Diamond Right V5 15
101 Hard As Diamond V7 7
  Overhanging Wall
103 Overhanging Arête V3+ 31
104 Overdone f7B+  
105 Doneover f7C  
106 Crossdresser f7A 20
107 Addams Family Values f7A+ *** 19
108 Clint's Eliminate f7B+  
109 Overkill f7B 3
  Mike's Little Boulder
111 Mike's Little Arete V7 5
112 Flake Pop V4 24
113 Mike's Seams V3 24
114 Big Flake V0 22
  Juan Block
116 The Other Juan f5+ 3
117 The Power of Juan V6 5
118 When Two Become Juan f6C+ 1
119 Dan’s Arête f4 2
  Area 4 - Hob's Hole Crag
  Hobbledehoys
122 Hobbledehoys V1 4
  Hobgoblin
124 Hobgoblin V1 5b 5
125 Hob Pocket f3+ 4
  Hob's Wall
127 Hobs Crack and Arete V2 4
128 Hobs Crack V2 4
129 Hob Along V5 3
130 High Hob f4+ 3
  Hobbit Area
132 Duplo f3 2
133 Sauron’s Swing f5+ 2
134 Hobbit’s Direct f5+ 2
135 Gimli’s Dream f4 2
  Hobnob Boulder
137 Hobicide Prow f6A 2
138 Hobnob Left f4 2
139 Hobnob Right f4 2
140 Jug Life f4 2
  Rare Slab
142 Hob’s Traverse f5 3
143 Hob’s Contrivance f6A+ 3
144 Rare Slab f3+ 4
145 Rare Slab Arete f3 3
  Winter Sessions
147 Dark Side Arête f5 1
148 White Powder f5+ 1
149 Winter Sessions f6C  
150 Cold Days f5 2
151 Winter Slopes f4+ 2
  Area 4.5 - Trilobite Plantation
  The Pillars
154 Slice V0 7
155 Not So Thriller V1 9
156 Lowest of The Low V4 7
157 Lip Up V0 7
158 No Thrills f4 2
159 Thriller f6A 2
  Star Trek Boulder
161 Jean Luc V6 4
162 Energise f7A+  
163 Warp Drive f6B 4
164 Shut Up Wesley f6B 1
  Area 5 - High Cademan
  Cracked Boulder
167 Awkward Slab V4 4
168 Cracked Boulder Crack V2 13
169 Cracked Boulder Arête V3 12
170 Mossy Slab V0- 5
Climb name Grade
  Rooftop Boulder
172 Positive Ape V5 3
173 Call To Mind V7 3
  Perched Block Boulder
175 Perched Block V0+ 7
176 Perched Block Crack V1 4
177 Stihl Air V5+ 3
  Chockstone Roof
179 Prowed V5 7
180 Wobbly Block Arete V4+ 9
181 Cave Arete V3 3
182 Chockstone Roof V4+ 4
183 Miss Direction f7B+  
184 Miss Directed V8 2
185 Sacrificial Offering f7B+ *** 4
186 The Face V3 * 4
  Area 6 - Pinnacle Crag
188 I Am Groot D 5
189 Curving Arête. f6C 4
190 Relocation Relocation V7 3
191 Jack Hammer
-
f7A+ 6
192 Leaning Wall V1 2
193 Split Arete V0- 1
194 Pinnacle Arete Left V1 4
195 Pinnacle Arete Right V0 3
196 Relocating Jack V7 3
  Area 7 - The Allotments
  Shark’s Tooth
199 Shark’s Tooth f6B 2
200 Winky Face f5+ 2
201 LOL f6A+ 2
202 EZPZ f3 2
203 WTF f6C 1
204 Jug Haul f4 2
205 Great Central f5 2
206 Grand Horizontal f6A 2
207 Step Arete f3 2
  Completionist Block
209 Completionist Traverse f5+ 2
210 The Completionist f5 2
  The Egg
212 Eggy Arête f4+ 2
213 The Egg f6B 1
214 Diamond f6C+ 1
215 Juggy f4 2
  Toast
217 Toast Arête f5 2
218 The Flake f6B 2
219 Burn Out f6B 2
220 Bird Brained f6A+ 2
221 The Rockover f5+ 2
222 Crust f4 2
223 Toasted Traverse f6A+ 1
  Rising Ramp
225 Rising Ramp f5+ 2
226 Ramp Up f3 2
227 Stub f3 2
  7th Wall
229 7th Arete f5 2
230 7th Wall f4 2
  Pathside
232 The Path f5+ 2
233 Pathside f5+ 2
234 Pathing f5+ 2
235 Pathos f6B 1
  Holly War
237 Holly Ghost f4+ 2
238 Holly War f4+ 2
  Chossy Cracks
240 Choss Master f5 2
241 Choss Match f5+ 1
242 Right Choss f5+ 1
  Crocodile
244 Croc Traverse f4 2
245 The Crocodile f4 2
  Block X
247 Knacky Ds f6A+ 2
248 Fast Feud f6B 2
249 Buns f6A 2
  Hobo’s Palace
251 Hobo’s Palace f3 2
252 Attila the Bum f3 2
  Unknown Problems
254 Hard and Fast V2 5c * 2
255 Sue V0+ 2

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