Climbs 265
Rocktype Welded Tuff
Altitude 190m a.s.l
Faces all

Clint Maskell grabbing the 3rd ascent of this truly stunning line! Sacrificial Offering (7b+) © Crimpington Bear

Crag features

Tors and boulders scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill. The rocks formed the top of a volcano before it erupted.

A new guidebook is currently being written by Ben Turner and the most up to date draft can be found at CademanBouldering.com

For more info see the online version of the old Leicestershire Climbs guidebook.

Approach notes

See maps here and here.

Parking Spots:

Broad Hill and Cademan Wood: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

Grimley's Rock Parking: Roadside (GPS Coordinates).

Hob's Hole Crag & Trilobite Plantation: Layby (GPS Coordinates).

High Cademan and Pinnacle Crag: Free Car Park (GPS Coordinates).

Guidebooks

Is this the crag in Cademan Wood with the trig point on top? If not, does anyone have a grid ref?
NobbyClark - 27/Aug/13
A visit prompted by the Climber magazine article in July 2013. Some nice problems, but some parts a bit overgrown with summer ferns and brambles.
jack89 - 08/Jul/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1 - Broad Hill
  Cavalry Rock
3 Crack of Wales f6C+ * 18
4 The Welshy f7B+ 1
5 Little Llanberis f6B+ ** 26
6 Top Traverse f5+ * 16
7 Whale Fin f5 5
8 Whale City f6B * 4
9 Whale Arête f5 6
  Hidden Wall
11 Orinoco f3+ 5
12 Short Wall f4+ 5
13 Short Ledge f4 5
14 Bulgarete f5+ 6
15 Uncle Bulagaria f4 6
16 Bulgaright f4 6
17 Bungo’s Arête f5+ 6
18 Bungo f6A+ ** 8
19 Bulagaria’s Girdle f4 5
20 Hidden Arête f4+ 6
21 High Ledge f4 7
22 Covert Crack f6B+ 6
23 Private Pinch f6B+ 6
24 Hidden Wall f6A+ 9
25 Secret Womble f6A+ 6
  Brap Ya Mum
27 Brap Ya Mum f5+ 16
28 Slap Ya Mum f6A+ 8
  Pirate Block
30 Easy Cracks f3 7
31 Pirate Slap f5 * 6
32 Greenbeard f7A 4
33 The Ramp f4+ 5
34 The Ramp Direct f3+ 6
35 Pirate Fever f7A ** 5
  Twentysteps Area
37 Twenty Steps Arête f6A 2
38 Cutaway f6C 1
39 The Ripper f6B+ * 25
40 Big Flake f6B+ ** 38
41 Right Arete f4 29
42 Claustrophobic Slab f5 2
43 Detached Block Left f7A+ 3
44 Detached Block Right f6A 8
45 Detached Wall Left f6A 3
46 Detached Block Wall f4+ ** 25
47 Detached Wall Right f4+ 1
48 Twentysteps Chimney D 11
49 Twentysteps Arete D 16
  Turry Tor
51 Stretch Left V3+ 7
52 Green Goddess V5+ 5
53 On The Edge V7 1
54 Mike's Dyno V6  
55 Turry Tor Arete V5 * 6
56 Suicide Prow V9 1
  The Tooth
58 Megalomaniac f6A+ 1
59 Megalodon's Tooth V2 4
60 Cavity V2 3
61 Traversal V4+ 3
62 Reversal f7A 3
63 Extinct Arête f4 1
  Warthog Boulder
65 Little Slab f3+ 4
66 Twin Crack Groove f4 4
67 Little Prow f5 3
68 The Warthog f6B+ ** 3
69 Backscratcher f6C * 4
  Gonzo Boulder
71 Gonzo's Nose V3 19
72 Crack Only V2 17
73 Gonzo’s Arête f3 2
74 Gonzo’s Back Arête f3 2
75 Gonzo f5+ * 15
76 Rizzo the Rat V1 7
77 Swing the Rat f6A 2
  Reg's Crack
79 Reg Jr. f3 1
80 Reg's Arête f3 8
81 Regs' Crack
-
V0- 4a 16
82 Whirlybird f6A+ 1
  Area 2 - Grimley's Rock
84 Grimley's Groove V0- 4c 4
85 Grim Lee f5+ 6
86 Amrak Eliminate
-
V8+ 1
87 Grimley's Crack Left Hand f6A+ ** 8
88 Grimley's Crack f6A+ * 12
89 Grimley's Crack (Standing Start) V2 8
90 Karma f7A+ *** 4
91 Karma SS V7 *** 2
92 Hard Karma V8 * 2
93 Hard Karma SS V8+ * 2
94 Amrakarma f7B+ ** 2
95 Grimley's Traverse V8 1
96 Amrakarma Extension V8+ 1
97 Grimley's Dream
-
V8+  
98 Clint's 6B
-
V4 1
  Area 3 - Cademan Wood
  Roof Boulder
101 Ram V4 21
102 Tron V5 * 19
103 Flynn V4+ 16
104 Strange Brew f5+ 2
105 Backwards Roly Poly f4 2
106 Scrub f5 2
Climb name Grade
  Gully Block
108 Gullyver’s Travels f6A+ 9
109 Gullyver’s Excursion f5+ 2
110 Gully Slab f2 1
111 Gully Prow V4+ * 6
  Diamond Block
113 Diamond Shield f5+ ** 37
114 Diamond Left f6B 5
115 Diamond Face f6B 2
116 Diamond Right f6A * 15
117 Decrepitation f7B 8
  Addams Family Boulder
119 Overhanging Arête V3+ * 34
120 Overkill f7B 5
121 Doneover f7C  
122 Overdone f7B+ 1
123 Crossdresser f7A ** 20
124 Addams Family Values f7A+ *** 22
125 Clint's Eliminate f7B+  
126 Budgie f?  
127 Fester’s Slab f2 2
128 Johnny’s Little Helicopter f6A+ 3
  Mike's Little Boulder
130 One Move f7A+ ** 5
131 Flake Pop V4 ** 25
132 Mike's Seams V3 * 26
133 Big Flake V0 24
134 Penny Pincher f6A 4
  Juan Block
136 The Other Juan f5+ 4
137 The Power of Juan V6 ** 5
138 When Two Become Juan f6C+ 1
139 Dan’s Arête f4 3
  Star Trek Boulder
141 Jean Luc V6 4
142 Energise f7A+  
143 Warp Drive f6B 4
144 Shut Up Wesley f6B 1
  The Pillars
146 Slice V0 8
147 Thrilling Traverse f5 1
148 The Pillar f5 1
149 Not So Thriller V1 9
150 Lowest of The Low V4 9
151 Lip Up V0 9
152 No Thrills f4 2
153 Thriller f6A 2
  Area 4 - Hob's Hole Crag
  Hobbledehoys
156 Hob’s Big Pinch f6C+  
157 Hobbledehoy Arête f5 1
158 Hobbledehoys V1 * 4
159 Hobbledehoys Right f5 1
  Hobgoblin
161 Hobgoblin V1 5b 5
162 Bugbear f6B+ 1
163 Hob Pocket f3+ 5
164 Empty Pocket f5 1
  Hob's Wall
166 Hobs Crack and Arete V2 4
167 Mike's Move f6C 1
168 Hob's Crack V2 5
169 Captain Cademan f7B 1
170 Hob Along V5 3
171 High Hob f4+ 6
172 Tree Crack f3 3
173 Short Hob f5 1
  Hobbit Area
175 Duplo f3 3
176 Sauron’s Swing f5+ 2
177 Hobbit’s Direct f5+ 2
178 Gimli’s Dream f4 2
  Hobnob Boulder
180 Hobicide Prow f6A 2
181 Hobnob Left f4 2
182 Hobnob Right f4 2
183 Jug Life f4 2
  Rare Slab
185 Hob’s Traverse f5 4
186 Hob’s Contrivance f6A+ 4
187 Rare Slab f3+ 6
188 Rare Slab Arete f3 5
  Winter Sessions
190 Dark Side Arête f5 1
191 White Powder f5+ 1
192 Winter Sessions f6C  
193 Cold Days f5 2
194 Winter Slopes f4+ 2
  Area 5 - High Cademan
  Cracked Boulder
197 Awkward Slab V4 4
198 Cracked Boulder Crack V2 13
199 Cracked Boulder Arête V3 12
200 Mossy Slab V0- 5
  Rooftop Boulder
202 Positive Ape V5 3
203 Call To Mind V7 3
  Perched Block Boulder
205 Perched Block V0+ 8
206 Perched Block Crack V1 4
207 Stihl Air V5+ 3
  Chockstone Roof
209 Prowed V5 7
210 Wobbly Block Arete V4+ 9
211 Cave Arete V3 ** 6
212 Chockstone Roof V4+ 5
213 Miss Direction f7B+  
Climb name Grade
214 Miss Directed V8 *** 2
215 Sacrificial Offering f7B+ *** 4
216 The Face V3 * 5
  Area 6 - Pinnacle Crag
  The Junction
219 Up The Junction f3+ 3
220 Smear Tactics f6A 3
221 Shame Faced f6C+ 2
222 Traction f5 4
223 Bored Walk f4 1
224 Bored Left f3 1
225 Bored Right f3 1
  Waymark
227 Waymark f5 2
  Downhill Diver
229 Uphill Battle f6A 1
230 Downhill Diver f6A 1
  Mini Mantle
232 Mini Mantel f4 1
  Chop
234 Chop f6A+ 1
235 Strawberry f6A 1
  Pinnacle Crag
237 Jumping Jack f6C  
238 Jack Hammer
-
f7A+ ** 6
239 Relocation Relocation V7 3
240 Relocating Jack V7 4
241 Pinnacle Crack f4 1
242 Curving Arête. f6C 4
243 Steep f6B  
244 I Am Groot f3 5
245 Left Arête f4 1
246 Paw f4 2
247 Sweet Dee f5 3
248 Right Arête f4 2
249 The Stack f5+ 1
250 Puffin f6A 2
251 Pinnacle Arete Left V1 5
252 Pinnacle Arete Right V0 5
253 Hemmed In f6C 2
254 Column f5 2
255 Column Left f6A 2
256 Tight Slab f6B+ 2
257 Column Right f5+ 2
258 Dirty Prow f3 1
259 Dirty Crack f3 1
  Area 7 - The Allotments
  Shark’s Tooth
262 Shark’s Tooth f6B 2
263 Winky Face f5+ 2
264 LOL f6A+ 2
265 EZPZ f3 2
266 WTF f6C 1
267 Jug Haul f4 2
268 Great Central f5 2
269 Grand Horizontal f6A 2
270 Step Arete f3 2
  Completionist Block
272 Completionist Traverse f5+ 2
273 The Completionist f5 2
  The Egg
275 Eggy Arête f4+ 2
276 The Egg f6B 1
277 Diamond f6C+ 1
278 Juggy f4 2
  Toast
280 Toast Arête f5 3
281 The Flake f6B 3
282 Burn Out f6B 3
283 Bird Brained f6A+ 3
284 The Rockover f5+ 3
285 Crust f4 3
286 Toasted Traverse f6A+ 2
  Rising Ramp
288 Rising Ramp f5+ 2
289 Ramp Up f3 2
290 Stub f3 2
  7th Wall
292 7th Arete f5 2
293 7th Wall f4 2
  Pathside
295 The Path f5+ 2
296 Pathside f5+ 2
297 Pathing f5+ 2
298 Pathos f6B 1
  Holly War
300 Holly Ghost f4+ 2
301 Holly War f4+ 2
  Chossy Cracks
303 Choss Master f5 2
304 Choss Match f5+ 1
305 Right Choss f5+ 1
  Crocodile
307 Croc Traverse f4 2
308 The Crocodile f4 2
  Block X
310 Knacky Ds f6A+ 2
311 Fast Feud f6B 2
312 Buns f6A 2
  Hobo’s Palace
314 Hobo’s Palace f3 2
315 Attila the Bum f3 2
  Unknown Problems
317 Split Arete V0- 1
318 Leaning Wall V1 2
319 Hard and Fast V2 5c * 2
320 Sue V0+ 2

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