Climbs 122
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

Portnoy's Complaint © mark20

Crag features

Esoteric, and almost a gem, given more traffic to clean up the routes. SDhrouded in trees, lichenous and slow to dry, this is a summer venue (but take the midge cream and a brush). Recent developments have added to many worthwhile climbs here, but most of the quality lies in the extreme grades. Best routes are Zebedee and Florence (both VS 4c), Portnoy's Complaint (E2 5b), Teddy Bear's Picnic (E4 6b), The Final Overthrow of the Green Devil (E5 6b), Neat Feet, Flex and Earthboots (all E5 6c). The recent E8 sounds interesting!

Approach notes

Most easily approached by traversing left from the left-hand end of Rivelin Edge. The first quarry is reached in a few mins. The owner is not keen on climbing taking place there.

Access Advice

The landowner (a tree surgeon with a vision of how this woodland should be managed), protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Climbers should avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack and respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.

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Great crag and with several lines recently cleaned. Would really recommend a trip the routes we did were good and there were plenty of others to come back for too. Just need people to get out of the mentality that Stanage is the only place in the peak to climb and the routes would get enough traffic to not need any cleaning. Where is everyone's sense of adventure!
Calum Wadsworth - 20/Mar/15
This place is nowhere near as green as you might expect. There are some areas however which are covered in ghostbusters style ectoplasm. People need to realise there are more Peak guides than Eastern Grit!
peppermill - 29/Jan/10
I don't understand why this place is so neglected. Maybe its because the peak punters are spoilt. This has some really great routes that just need a bit of a clean up.
Mark Davies PK - 17/Sep/09
Rivelin Quarries access Just to let you know that the Norfolk Arms pub has closed and sold and I believe will be made into a house so parking there for the Quarries is probably no longer a good idea.
Ropeboy - 05/Jan/08
Definitely NOT a summer venue. Wait for a dry spell during winter when the trees have died back a bit and go and sample some of the best routes on quarried grit.
Nik at work - 26/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Rhododendron Crack Area 
2Fall of GraceE6 6b * 
3EntrapmentE2 5b 1
4Rhododendron Crack
E1 5a *12
5Chimp 'B'V6 *2
6Glom OntoV6 **4
7Ipecacuanha GrooveHVS 5a *8
8Ipecacuanha CrackVS 4c 3
9Luke Pie StalkerE1 5c  
10Digit GrooveVS 4c 1
11EarthbootsE6 6c ** 
12Jack the Groove
E6 6c **1
13Syrup of FigsVS 4c  
14Altered EdgeE2 5c  
15Christopher Robin and Winnie the PoohVS 4b  
16The Direct FinishE1 5b  
17HoneypotE2 5c  
18Transit StrapS  
19G'DayE1 5a  
20Black SnowS 1
21Sex DriveE3 6b *3
22Black Slab Arête
E1 6a *6
23Black Slab
HVS 5a *20
24The Two TomsE1 5b *35
25PigletHVS 5b *16
26That's My LotE8 7a ** 
27Luxury GapE2 5b  
28Jeremy BearE1 5b  
29WilsonVD 3
30HeathVD 2
31Dirty DawnE2 5b  
32EutechtoidE2 5b  
33Rabbit ButtressHVS 5a *1
34Cup of Tea?E4 6b  
35Vegetated CornerVD  
36Dubious ArêteVS 4b  
 Web Buttress 
38The WebS 1
39Web Arête
40SpidersE2 5b  
41Black WidowE2 5b  
42Funnel WebHVS 5b  
 Magic Roundabout Area 
44Dustbin in SaigonHS  
45Jungle WayS  
46Mr RustyHVS 5a  
47Polar BearVS 5a  
48HerbaciousnessVS 4b  
49ParaquatVS 4c  
50And Now For Something Completely DifferentE5 6b *1
51Mr CreosoteE5 6c 2
52Snivelin RivelinE3 6a *6
53PythonesqueE2 5c  
54PhallacyVS 4b  
55Mr MacHenryE1 5b  
56Portnoy's ComplaintE2 5b **18
57FlexE6 6c ***6
58The Final Overthrow of the Green DevilE5 6b *3
59E.B.M.C. 1VS 4b  
60ZebedeeVS 4c  
61Sore ThumbHVS 5b  
62Direct ComebackHVS 5b *3
63ComebackHVS 5a  
64Go AwayE3 6a  
65Stunt ChildrenE4 6b 2
66Cold School ClosureE4 6c * 
67DougalE2 6a  
69Crab WaddyE2 5b *3
70FlorenceHVS 5a  
71DeliveredE4 6a * 
72Awkward WillyE2 5c *1
73Tree SurgeonE1 5b  
74Simmo's Wall
75Simmo's Arête
78Bangkok HighwayVS 4a  
79LaybyHVS 4c 1
80Hans So LowHVS 4c  
81HeadacheHVS 5a 1
82Biffo the BearHVS 5a  
HVS 5b 2
84The Magic RoundaboutE1 5c  
 Big Quarry 
86Feet NeetE5 6c **1
87Super TedE5 6c * 
88Teddy Bears' PicnicE4 6b **4
89DextrasolE1 5b *12
90GlucoseHVS 5a *9
91The Bear NecessitiesE5 6b **1
92PaddingtonE4 6a **3
93Boira AiraE4 6a  
94SucroseHVS 5a 1
95Jabba the SlutE2 5b 1
96FructoseE1 5a  
97GormenghastHVS 4c  
98Sweeter than SugarE2 5b  
99SaccharineHVS 5a  
100PervertHVS 4c  
 Final Quarries 
102Fond MemoriesE4 6a  
103ManqueHVS 4c  
104100 Acre WoodHVS 4c  
105The ForestVS 4b  
107HeffalumpS 1
108Jungle FormulaE1 5c  
109Iain's Arêtef7B * 
110Nik's Wallf8A ** 
111Non Ribf7A+ *1
113Cheeses of NazarethE2 6a 1
114Happy Campusf7B *5
115No ClassV9 **1
116Cheeks 'n' Beaksf7B+ *3
117Edward BearVS 4c  
118Woozle DirectVS 4c 4
119The WebbS 1
120GourmetHVS 5b * 
121KangaS 1
122NuSkinV4 **4
124Mini Beak Ribf6B+ *8
125Mini Beak *V6 **26
126Beak no Weevil *V7 *2
127Green Beard *f7B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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