Climbs 125
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

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Portnoy's Complaint © mark20

Crag features

Esoteric, and almost a gem, given more traffic to clean up the routes. SDhrouded in trees, lichenous and slow to dry, this is a summer venue (but take the midge cream and a brush). Recent developments have added to many worthwhile climbs here, but most of the quality lies in the extreme grades. Best routes are Zebedee and Florence (both VS 4c), Portnoy's Complaint (E2 5b), Teddy Bear's Picnic (E4 6b), The Final Overthrow of the Green Devil (E5 6b), Neat Feet, Flex and Earthboots (all E5 6c). The recent E8 sounds interesting!

Approach notes

Most easily approached by traversing left from the left-hand end of Rivelin Edge. The first quarry is reached in a few mins. The owner is not keen on climbing taking place there.

Restricted Access

The landowner (a tree surgeon with a vision of how this woodland should be managed), protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Climbers should avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack and respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Tawny owls sometimes nest on the crag in the spring (previously on Kremlin Crack or Roof Route) - if present avoid the route(s) they are occupying until the nest is vacated.

Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest, so please steer well clear of these routes until the chicks have fledged, both for the benefit of the birds and your own wellbeing.

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Guidebooks

Great crag and with several lines recently cleaned. Would really recommend a trip the routes we did were good and there were plenty of others to come back for too. Just need people to get out of the mentality that Stanage is the only place in the peak to climb and the routes would get enough traffic to not need any cleaning. Where is everyone's sense of adventure!
Calum Wadsworth - 20/Mar/15
This place is nowhere near as green as you might expect. There are some areas however which are covered in ghostbusters style ectoplasm. People need to realise there are more Peak guides than Eastern Grit!
peppermill - 29/Jan/10
I don't understand why this place is so neglected. Maybe its because the peak punters are spoilt. This has some really great routes that just need a bit of a clean up.
Mark Davies PK - 17/Sep/09
Rivelin Quarries access Just to let you know that the Norfolk Arms pub has closed and sold and I believe will be made into a house so parking there for the Quarries is probably no longer a good idea.
Ropeboy - 05/Jan/08
Definitely NOT a summer venue. Wait for a dry spell during winter when the trees have died back a bit and go and sample some of the best routes on quarried grit.
Nik at work - 26/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rhododendron Crack Area
2 Fall of Grace E6 6b *  
3 Entrapment
-
E2 5b 1
4 Rhododendron Crack
-
E1 5a * 12
5 Chimp 'B' V6 * 2
6 Glom Onto V6 ** 4
7 Ipecacuanha Groove HVS 5a * 10
8 Ipecacuanha Crack
-
VS 4c 4
9 Luke Pie Stalker
-
E1 5c  
10 Digit Groove
-
VS 4c 1
11 Earthboots
-
E6 6c **  
12 Jack the Groove
-
E6 6c ** 2
13 Syrup of Figs
-
VS 4c 1
14 Altered Edge
-
E2 5c 1
15 Christopher Robin and Winnie the Pooh
-
VS 4b 1
16 The Direct Finish
-
E1 5b 1
17 Honeypot
-
E2 5c 1
18 Transit Strap
-
S  
19 G'Day
-
E1 5a  
20 Black Snow
-
S 1
21 Sex Drive
-
E3 6b * 3
22 Black Slab Arête
-
E1 6a * 7
23 Black Slab
-
HVS 5a * 22
24 The Two Toms
-
E1 5b * 35
25 Piglet
-
HVS 5b * 17
26 That's My Lot E8 7a **  
27 Luxury Gap
-
E2 5b  
28 Jeremy Bear
-
E1 5b  
29 Wilson
-
VD 4
30 Heath
-
VD 3
31 Dirty Dawn
-
E2 5b  
32 Eutechtoid
-
E2 5b  
33 Rabbit Buttress
-
HVS 5a * 4
34 Cup of Tea? E4 6b  
35 Vegetated Corner
-
VD  
36 Dubious Arête
-
VS 4b  
  Web Buttress
38 The Web
-
S 2
39 Web Arête
-
V2 5c 1
40 Spiders
-
E2 5b 1
41 Black Widow
-
E2 5b  
42 Funnel Web
-
HVS 5b 1
  Magic Roundabout Area
44 Dustbin in Saigon
-
HS  
Climb name Grade
45 Jungle Way
-
S  
46 Mr Rusty
-
HVS 5a  
47 Polar Bear
-
VS 5a  
48 Herbaciousness
-
VS 4b  
49 Paraquat
-
VS 4c  
50 And Now For Something Completely Different E5 6b * 1
51 Mr Creosote E5 6c 2
52 Snivelin Rivelin
-
E3 6a * 6
53 Pythonesque
-
E2 5c  
54 Mr MacHenry
-
E1 5b  
55 Phallacy
-
VS 4b  
56 Portnoy's Complaint E2 5b ** 18
57 Flex
-
E6 6c *** 13
58 The Final Overthrow of the Green Devil
-
E5 6b * 4
59 Zebedee
-
VS 4c  
60 E.B.M.C. 1
-
VS 4b  
61 Sore Thumb
-
HVS 5b  
62 Direct Comeback
-
HVS 5b * 6
63 Comeback
-
HVS 5a  
64 Go Away
-
E3 6a  
65 Stunt Children
-
E4 6b 2
66 Cold School Closure
-
E4 6c *  
67 Dougal
-
E2 6a  
68 Menlove
-
S  
69 Crab Waddy
-
E2 5b * 4
70 Florence
-
HVS 5a  
71 Delivered
-
E4 6a *  
72 Awkward Willy
-
E2 5c * 3
73 Tree Surgeon
-
E1 5b  
74 Simmo's Wall
-
V3  
75 Simmo's Arête
-
V0+  
76 Paul
-
S  
77 Basil
-
S  
78 Bangkok Highway
-
VS 4a 1
79 Layby
-
HVS 4c 1
80 Hans So Low
-
HVS 4c  
81 Headache
-
HVS 5a 3
82 Biffo the Bear
-
HVS 5a 1
83 Brian
-
HVS 5b 2
84 The Magic Roundabout
-
E1 5c  
  Big Quarry
86 Feet Neet
-
E5 6c ** 2
87 Super Ted
-
E5 6c *  
88 Teddy Bears' Picnic
-
E4 6b ** 6
Climb name Grade
89 Dextrasol
-
E1 5b * 14
90 Glucose HVS 5a * 9
91 The Bear Necessities
-
E5 6b ** 3
92 Paddington
-
E4 6a ** 8
93 Boira Aira
-
E4 6a  
94 Sucrose
-
HVS 5a 1
95 Jabba the Slut
-
E2 5b 1
96 Fructose
-
E1 5a  
97 Gormenghast
-
HVS 4c  
98 Sweeter than Sugar E2 5b  
99 Saccharine
-
HVS 5a  
100 Pervert
-
HVS 4c  
  Final Quarries
102 Fond Memories
-
E4 6a  
103 Manque
-
HVS 4c  
104 100 Acre Wood
-
HVS 4c  
105 The Forest
-
VS 4b  
106 Sewerplumb
-
HS  
107 Heffalump
-
S 1
108 Spudd Webb
-
f7A  
109 The Rookie Road
-
f6B  
110 Dribble
-
f6A  
111 Greenbeard f7B 1
112 Jungle Formula E1 5c  
113 Iain's Arête f7B *  
114 Nik's Wall f8A **  
115 Non Rib f7A+ * 1
116 Wol
-
HS  
117 Cheeses of Nazareth
-
E2 6a 1
118 Happy Campus f7B * 3
119 No Class V9 ** 1
120 Cheeks 'n' Beaks f7B+ * 3
121 The Beak District
-
f6C  
122 Edward Bear
-
VS 4c 1
123 Woozle Direct
-
VS 4c 5
124 The Webb
-
S 2
125 Gourmet
-
HVS 5b * 1
126 Kanga
-
S 1
  Mini Beak
128 Boffwidth f6B 3
129 Mini Beak Rib f6B+ * 11
130 Mini Beak f7A ** 33
131 Beak no Weevil f7A+ * 4

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