Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Portnoy's Complaint © mark20
Esoteric, and almost a gem, given more traffic to clean up the routes. SDhrouded in trees, lichenous and slow to dry, this is a summer venue (but take the midge cream and a brush). Recent developments have added to many worthwhile climbs here, but most of the quality lies in the extreme grades. Best routes are Zebedee and Florence (both VS 4c), Portnoy's Complaint (E2 5b), Teddy Bear's Picnic (E4 6b), The Final Overthrow of the Green Devil (E5 6b), Neat Feet, Flex and Earthboots (all E5 6c). The recent E8 sounds interesting!
Most easily approached by traversing left from the left-hand end of Rivelin Edge. The first quarry is reached in a few mins. The owner is not keen on climbing taking place there.
The landowner (a tree surgeon with a vision of how this woodland should be managed), protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Climbers should avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack and respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.
Dates: 1 March to 22 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
A owl is currently nesting in Roof Route - this route and Groove Route (which shares the same start) should be avoided unitl the nest is vacated. The species hasn't been confirmed, but from several descriptions of the size and colour, it is highly likely that it is a tawny owl. Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack people climbing near their nest in the past, so please steer well clear of these routes until 22nd June when the chicks should have fledged, both for the chicks benefit and your own!
|Great crag and with several lines recently cleaned. Would really recommend a trip the routes we did were good and there were plenty of others to come back for too. Just need people to get out of the mentality that Stanage is the only place in the peak to climb and the routes would get enough traffic to not need any cleaning. Where is everyone's sense of adventure!|
Calum Wadsworth - 20/Mar/15
|This place is nowhere near as green as you might expect. There are some areas however which are covered in ghostbusters style ectoplasm. People need to realise there are more Peak guides than Eastern Grit!|
peppermill - 29/Jan/10
|I don't understand why this place is so neglected. Maybe its because the peak punters are spoilt. This has some really great routes that just need a bit of a clean up.|
Mark Davies PK - 17/Sep/09
|Rivelin Quarries access
Just to let you know that the Norfolk Arms pub has closed and sold and I believe will be made into a house so parking there for the Quarries is probably no longer a good idea.|
Ropeboy - 05/Jan/08
|Definitely NOT a summer venue. Wait for a dry spell during winter when the trees have died back a bit and go and sample some of the best routes on quarried grit.|
Nik at work - 26/Feb/03