Climbs 122
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 253m a.s.l
Faces S

Portnoy's Complaint © mark20

Crag features

Esoteric, and almost a gem, given more traffic to clean up the routes. SDhrouded in trees, lichenous and slow to dry, this is a summer venue (but take the midge cream and a brush). Recent developments have added to many worthwhile climbs here, but most of the quality lies in the extreme grades. Best routes are Zebedee and Florence (both VS 4c), Portnoy's Complaint (E2 5b), Teddy Bear's Picnic (E4 6b), The Final Overthrow of the Green Devil (E5 6b), Neat Feet, Flex and Earthboots (all E5 6c). The recent E8 sounds interesting!

Approach notes

Most easily approached by traversing left from the left-hand end of Rivelin Edge. The first quarry is reached in a few mins. The owner is not keen on climbing taking place there.

Access Advice

The landowner (a tree surgeon with a vision of how this woodland should be managed), protested strongly to the BMC about damage to trees and erosion to footpaths around the crag. Climbers should avoid the area to the right of Altar Crack and respect its integrity as a conservation area. Any further damage to trees will result in the loss of all access for climbing.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 22 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A owl is currently nesting in Roof Route - this route and Groove Route (which shares the same start) should be avoided unitl the nest is vacated. The species hasn't been confirmed, but from several descriptions of the size and colour, it is highly likely that it is a tawny owl. Tawny owls have been known to viciously attack  people climbing near their nest in the past, so please steer well clear of these routes until 22nd June when the chicks should have fledged, both for the chicks benefit and your own!

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Guidebooks

Great crag and with several lines recently cleaned. Would really recommend a trip the routes we did were good and there were plenty of others to come back for too. Just need people to get out of the mentality that Stanage is the only place in the peak to climb and the routes would get enough traffic to not need any cleaning. Where is everyone's sense of adventure!
Calum Wadsworth - 20/Mar/15
This place is nowhere near as green as you might expect. There are some areas however which are covered in ghostbusters style ectoplasm. People need to realise there are more Peak guides than Eastern Grit!
peppermill - 29/Jan/10
I don't understand why this place is so neglected. Maybe its because the peak punters are spoilt. This has some really great routes that just need a bit of a clean up.
Mark Davies PK - 17/Sep/09
Rivelin Quarries access Just to let you know that the Norfolk Arms pub has closed and sold and I believe will be made into a house so parking there for the Quarries is probably no longer a good idea.
Ropeboy - 05/Jan/08
Definitely NOT a summer venue. Wait for a dry spell during winter when the trees have died back a bit and go and sample some of the best routes on quarried grit.
Nik at work - 26/Feb/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rhododendron Crack Area
2 Fall of Grace E6 6b *  
3 Entrapment E2 5b 1
4 Rhododendron Crack
-
E1 5a * 12
5 Chimp 'B' V6 * 2
6 Glom Onto V6 6b ** 4
7 Ipecacuanha Groove HVS 5a * 8
8 Ipecacuanha Crack VS 4c 3
9 Luke Pie Stalker E1 5c  
10 Digit Groove VS 4c 1
11 Earthboots E6 6c **  
12 Jack the Groove
-
E6 6c ** 1
13 Syrup of Figs VS 4c  
14 Altered Edge E2 5c  
15 Christopher Robin and Winnie the Pooh VS 4b  
16 The Direct Finish E1 5b  
17 Honeypot E2 5c  
18 Transit Strap S  
19 G'Day E1 5a  
20 Black Snow S 1
21 Sex Drive E3 6b * 3
22 Black Slab Arête
-
E1 6a * 6
23 Black Slab
-
HVS 5a * 20
24 The Two Toms E1 5b * 35
25 Piglet HVS 5b * 16
26 That's My Lot E8 7a **  
27 Luxury Gap E2 5b  
28 Jeremy Bear E1 5b  
29 Wilson VD 3
30 Heath VD 2
31 Dirty Dawn E2 5b  
32 Eutechtoid E2 5b  
33 Rabbit Buttress HVS 5a * 1
34 Cup of Tea? E4 6b  
35 Vegetated Corner VD  
36 Dubious Arête VS 4b  
  Web Buttress
38 The Web S 1
39 Web Arête
-
V2 5c  
40 Spiders E2 5b  
41 Black Widow E2 5b  
42 Funnel Web HVS 5b  
  Magic Roundabout Area
44 Dustbin in Saigon HS  
45 Jungle Way S  
46 Mr Rusty HVS 5a  
47 Polar Bear VS 5a  
48 Herbaciousness VS 4b  
49 Paraquat VS 4c  
50 And Now For Something Completely Different E5 6b * 1
51 Mr Creosote E5 6c 2
52 Snivelin Rivelin E3 6a * 6
53 Pythonesque E2 5c  
54 Phallacy VS 4b  
55 Mr MacHenry E1 5b  
56 Portnoy's Complaint E2 5b ** 15
57 Flex E6 6c *** 6
58 The Final Overthrow of the Green Devil E5 6b * 3
59 E.B.M.C. 1 VS 4b  
60 Zebedee VS 4c  
61 Sore Thumb HVS 5b  
62 Direct Comeback HVS 5b * 3
63 Comeback HVS 5a  
64 Go Away E3 6a  
65 Stunt Children E4 6b 2
66 Cold School Closure E4 6c *  
67 Dougal E2 6a  
68 Menlove S  
69 Crab Waddy E2 5b * 3
70 Florence HVS 5a  
71 Delivered E4 6a *  
72 Awkward Willy E2 5c * 1
73 Tree Surgeon E1 5b  
74 Simmo's Wall
-
V3 6a  
75 Simmo's Arête
-
V0+ 5b  
76 Paul S  
77 Basil S  
78 Bangkok Highway VS 4a  
79 Layby HVS 4c 1
80 Hans So Low HVS 4c  
81 Headache HVS 5a 1
82 Biffo the Bear HVS 5a  
83 Brian
-
HVS 5b 2
84 The Magic Roundabout E1 5c  
  Big Quarry
86 Feet Neet E5 6c ** 1
87 Super Ted E5 6c *  
88 Teddy Bears' Picnic E4 6b ** 4
89 Dextrasol E1 5b * 12
90 Glucose HVS 5a * 9
91 The Bear Necessities E5 6b ** 1
92 Paddington E4 6a ** 3
93 Boira Aira E4 6a  
94 Sucrose HVS 5a 1
95 Jabba the Slut E2 5b 1
96 Fructose E1 5a  
97 Gormenghast HVS 4c  
98 Sweeter than Sugar E2 5b  
99 Saccharine HVS 5a  
100 Pervert HVS 4c  
  Final Quarries
102 Fond Memories E4 6a  
103 Manque HVS 4c  
104 100 Acre Wood HVS 4c  
105 The Forest VS 4b  
106 Sewerplumb HS  
107 Heffalump S 1
108 Jungle Formula E1 5c  
109 Iain's Arête f7B *  
110 Nik's Wall f8A **  
111 Non Rib f7A+ * 1
112 Wol HS  
113 Cheeses of Nazareth E2 6a 1
114 Happy Campus f7B * 2
115 No Class V9 6c ** 1
116 Cheeks 'n' Beaks f7B+ * 3
117 Edward Bear VS 4c  
118 Woozle Direct VS 4c 4
119 The Webb S 1
120 Gourmet HVS 5b *  
121 Kanga S 1
122 NuSkin V4 6a ** 4
123 Boffwidth f6B  
124 Mini Beak Rib f6B+ * 8
125 Mini Beak * f7A ** 24
126 Beak no Weevil * f7A+ * 2
127 Green Beard * f7B 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83