Climbs 12
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces S

Graeme climbing the Prune © Ben Sharp

Crag features

A small but steep buttress of compact granite. Can be midge ridden in summer. Protection can be tricky on some of the routes and a good selection of small camming devices is recommended.

The most prominent feature of the crag is the shallow chimney-grooze of Bigger Than Tigger on the left. Lengths given are the route lengths - a further 10m is required to belay.

Approach notes

Park in the large lay-by near the lookout platform at the Glen of the Bar on the A712. Follow a trail down and across a stream and continue until the trail runs out. Then take a bearing of 120 degrees through woods (paint marks or tape mark the crag (takes about 10-15m from car park). The crag sits above a forest trach which can be accessed 2km further south along the A712 (signed Corwar and Dallash). The Foresty Commiddion allow pedestrian and bicycle access along this track but no vehicles please (25min). The crag is probably easier to find taking the second route.

If driving to the longer approach from the north then the sign you are looking out for says Panmure Fishing! However if you miss this then it's also approachable from the next forest track to the south.
Mike-W-99 - 19/Apr/14
this is a lovely little crag and the other routes looked good but I think it needs more traffic or a good clean to get rid of pine needles and moss build up/ general dirt. The tape mark on the trees only goes from the top of the crag to the bottom so the first route is a bit challenging through fairly thick forest with felled tree obstacles on a bearing and about 20//25 mins anyway. I think I would take the second route next time
abbeywall - 21/May/12
Dont forget to checkout Craigdews the neighbouring crag for some multi pitch routes. Only 5 mins further up rode if comming from newton stewart.
K_MacLeod - 09/Sep/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Pinus Worship VD * 7
2 Bigger Than Tigger S 4b * 20
3 Alpamayo no More
VS 4c * 12
4 The Prune
VS 4b ** 14
Climb name Grade
5 The peach
HVS 5a ** 19
6 Plum line
E2 5b *** 8
7 Corwar wall
HVS 5a ** 14
8 nutcase
E2 5b ** 1
Climb name Grade
9 tutti frutti
E1 5b ** 3
10 The harvesters
E4 5c * 1
11 Ruta Aurelio
E1 5b ** 8
12 The midge
HVS 5a 2

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