Climbs 60
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 265m a.s.l
Faces W

Tegness Pinnacle - 10th April 1976 © Martyn Maltby

Crag features

Two minor quarries in fine position overlooking the Derwent Valley. The left-hand quarry is frighteningly unstable, but its neighbour offers a few short (9m) routes up good, clean rock and the added fun of a detached pinnacle! Best routes are The Original Route (D) and Fingers (VS 4c). Can be tricky to find, especially in the Summer, when the quarries are all but invisible for the trees.

Approach notes

From the National Trust car park (Haywood) at SK 255777, just below The Grouse Inn on the B6504, follow the path beside a stone wall north to an electricity pole. Just past this is a path of the left which contours around the hillside to reach the quarry in a couple of minutes. If you reach the end of the stone wall, or start going downhill through the woods, you've gone the wrong way!

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info
More Guidebooks:
Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010)

Out of print:
Some good bouldering has been developed in the woods as of late and could do with traffic to keep it clean, starts at V1 up to about V5.
al123 - 01/May/12
As of late most stuff (Bouldering) in the woods as been developed by people and gives good esoteric problems up to around 6Cish. see UKB for info
al123 - 24/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Quarry
2 Ant
-
V0- 4c 7
3 Dec
-
V1 5c 2
4 Cat Deeley
-
V1 5c 3
5 Flaky Climb
-
HVD 4a 17
6 Sugar Rush
-
HVS 5c 4
7 Inch Crack
-
HS 4b 14
8 Curving Crack
-
VD 13
9 Wijit
-
VS 4b 14
10 5.5 HVD 4a 2
11 Outram
-
VS 4c * 24
12 Titanic
-
S 3
13 Choss
-
S 2
14 The Grouse
-
V0- 4c 4
15 Last of The Fading Light E5 6b ** 1
16 The Niche VS 4a 5
17 Hat Trick
-
VS 4c 2
18 Zig Zag
-
S 4a 7
19 Evening Light E3 6a 2
20 The Main Attraction HVS 5b 6
21 Rainey's Delight
-
VS 4c 14
22 Evening All
-
VS 4b 3
23 Good Evening
-
VS 4c 2
24 Sweet Nothings
-
S 4a 2
25 Oak Tree Wall
-
D 4
26 Sodd
-
VD 1
  Pinnacle Quarry
28 Four Cracks 1
-
VD 7
29 Four Cracks 2
-
S 6
30 Four Cracks 3
-
S 15
31 Four Cracks 4
-
S 5
32 Chass
-
D 19
33 Ooh, Me Purse
-
D 8
34 Chasm
-
D 10
35 The Bridge
-
S 13
36 Splinter
-
HS 4a 10
37 Profanity
-
HS 4a 8
38 Shyte
-
VS 5a 2
39 Green Latrine
-
D 2
40 Big Flake
-
VS 4b 6
41 Goliath
-
HVD 4
42 David V2 5c 2
43 Emlyn's Sports Studies Field Trip V5 * 8
44 Leeroy's Gap Year Extravaganza f7A+ ** 3
45 Emlyn's General Studies Field Trip V5 ** 4
46 Loose Setting
-
HS 4b 7
47 The Ego And The Id
-
E3 6b  
48 Corner Crack HS 4b 4
49 Fingers VS 4c * 12
50 Fumbs
-
HVS 5b  
51 Ace
-
HS 4a 3
52 Joker
-
HS 4a 3
  Tegness Pinnacle
54 The Original Route D * 189
55 Least Original Route V3 2
56 Rock the Casbah E1 5b 7
57 Thin Crack HVS 5b 23
58 Silver Spoon E2 5c 3
59 Barrage E2 5c 7
60 Pisa Cake E1 5b 4
61 Pisa HVS 5a * 87
62 Ghost Dancing
-
V0- 5b 2
63 Johnny Alpha
-
V0- 5b 2

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