Altitude 384m a.s.l
Grin of terror - Nickâ€™s first ever climb, Carrot Ridge. © Gripped
The finest rock formations in the Twelve Bens are found in the south wall of Gleann Eidheanach (Glen Inagh), running from Binn an Choire Bhig to M‡m na bFhonsa’, east of Binn Dubh (L808053). The rock is quartzite, white, pink or grey but always hard. The texture is smooth but the surface is uneven with small knobs and hollows. It is very different from the granite, limestones, volcanics and sandstones to which Irish climbers are most accustomed but once one learns to trust the one finger grip and the one toe hold these quartzite crags provide good climbing. Most climbs involve negotiating vegetation at one time or another.
The climbs vary from Diff. to V.S. and they are long - 150m to 320m. On the harder routes both belays and stances are scarce. These harder routes, because of their length, lack of protection and general steepness are serious undertakings which should be approached with caution. Seriousness and length are more characteristic of these climbs than extreme technical difficulty and steadiness under exposure together with route-finding skill are the qualities required of the leader.
"The Ridges of England, Wales and Ireland " covers Carrot Ridge
See also http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Gleann_Eighneach
ACCESS - Note: There have been access disputes in the recent past. The main reasons for this have been down to climbers parking along the roads leading into the Glen, blocking farmers' access with their own vehicles, blocking gates etc. If you park sensibly on the main road, then there is not usually a problem.
- The cliff is approached from the Srath Salach (Recess) - Kylemore road. Park on the main road. About 400m north of the bridge over the Tooreenacoona river take a boreen which leads west off the road into Gleann Eidhneach. The road is fenced to protect sheep from traffic.Follow the path up the valley from the end of the boreen and then cross the river and ascend to the crag.
High up on the mountain to the left of Carrot Ridge is a small slabby buttress (possibly called Carraig Beag) with a right-angled corner running up its centre. There are two routes recorded on this buttress
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