Climbs 200
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces all

Climbing on Gola island, Northern Ireland © Nick Sillem

Crag features

A couple of hundred routes on sea cliffs together with a small inland Crag make Gola a great weekend get away. Just watch for the tide before committing yourself to an absail down to sea level. The rough is a very rough granite that has the ability to tear rubber from your shoes and skin from your fingers.

There are a number of crags on the island. The names and map reference for the main crags are as follows:

Binatoke Area B759273
Easter Wall B758266
Gripple Wall B763271
Inland Crag B761274
Island Wall and Zawn B757272
Main Wall B760271
Mhachaire na nGall Walls B764271
Narrow Zawn B762271
NW Zawn Area B762275
Owey Wall B758272
Scoilt Uí Dhugáin (Scollydoogan) B763276
South West Corner B755268
South side Buttress B763268
Twin Cave Buttress Area B759272
John?s Wall B757266
Torglass Island B756266

Climbs are listed from left to right on each crag.

Approach notes

Best option is to phone Gola Island Ferry in advance on 00353-(0)872245881  Can take about 15-20 people with gear. In the summer tourists also make use of this service so can be competition for boat space. Make sure you book in advance as its not a scheduled service and times change due to tides.

      Gola Ferry Service

0872245881

 

 

   

Alternatively for smaller groups, in Summer the Tory ferry also operates from Bunbeg harbour. A phone call to Turasmara 075-31320/31340 and it should be possible to have the boat drop you off at Gola pier (but not at low tide), and hopefully pick you up again in the evening. Asking fishermen randomly at the Bunbeg pier has also proven successful.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North West Zawn
2 Vanishing Point E1 5b *** 9
3 Ghost Road
-
E1 5b 1
4 Shifting skies VS 4c 2
5 Wizard's Sleeve E1 5b * 4
6 Holographic Universe HVS 5a * 1
7 The Ubiquitous Blue E1 5b ** 1
8 The Third Policeman HVS 5a * 2
9 Smuggling Raisins HVS 5a 2
10 Inscrutability Puff E2 5c ** 2
11 Louse House HS 5b 2
  Scoilt Uí Dhugáin (Scollydoogan)
13 Trundlewheel VS 4b * 2
14 C.U. Burn E1 5a ** 2
  Inland Crag
16 Days of Wine and Roses E1 5b 19
17 Get Off the Bandwagon VS 4c * 3
18 Weathered Window VS 4b 45
19 Tasty Morsel HVS 5a *** 31
20 Tongue Job
-
E1 5b ** 19
21 Corner Boy VS 4c * 30
22 Days of Wonder
-
HVS 5a 28
23 Legislator D 45
24 Gorgonzolla E2 5c ** 8
25 Early Bird Gets the Clap, Second Mouse Gets the Cheese E3 6a ** 13
26 Pigs Garden S 4a 22
  Binatoke Zawn
28 Seaside Groove VD 1
29 20 Yards a' Groanin' S 4a 7
30 Flirting With The Void E2 5c *** 1
  Island Zawn
32 Cormy Corner
-
E2 5b  
  Owey Wall
34 Gola Digger HS 4b * 1
35 Fools' Staircase HVS 5a * 1
36 Dilly Dalying HS 4b 1
  Twin Cave Buttress
38 The Cauldron Beneath
-
S 4a 1
39 Old Salt
-
S 4a 2
40 The Plagirist
-
HS 4b 3
41 Kept Woman
-
D *** 2
42 Asgard E1 5b *** 13
43 Cois Farraige HVS 5a *** 7
44 Flake Out VS 5a ** 4
  Main Wall
46 Gathering Momentum E5 5c 1
47 Cormorant Crack
-
HS 4b 6
48 Run of the Arrow VS 4b *** 29
49 Ceol na Mara E2 5c ** 7
50 Tír na nog E3 5c *** 2
51 Galway Hooker E4 6a ** 4
52 Shagamorant HVS 5a * 5
53 Bull Root HVS 5a 1
54 Snow Desert
-
HS 4b ** 5
55 Ship Wrecked E2 5b 4
56 Destitution E2 5b ** 6
57 Destitution Direct
-
E2 5c ** 2
58 Restitution
-
E3 5c ** 1
59 Cornered Rats
-
HVS 5b *** 13
60 Sundance VS 4c * 6
61 Lunch Money HS 4b * 8
62 Golan Heights
-
VS 4c ** 9
63 Leopard HVS 5a ** 3
64 Thug VS 5a * 11
65 An t-Oileánach E3 6a * 1
66 Born Again Climber E1 5b ** 10
67 Seamonsters HVS 5b * 3
68 Don't pay the ferryman HVS 5a ** 1
69 Lonesome Boatman VS 5a 2
70 Waterworld S 5
71 Not CQR VS 4c * 3
72 Anchors Away HVS 5a * 8
73 Hexes from Heaven S 4a 7
74 Big Boots D 3
75 Seventh Wave of a Seventh Wave VS 5a 10
76 The Good, The Bad and the Ugly
-
E1 5b * 9
77 The Beautiful HS 4b 3
78 The Feast of Cana VD * 5
  Narrow Zawn
80 The Green Pool E1 5b *** 10
81 Gearrach E1 5b * 7
82 Buzz Light Year HS 4b *** 16
83 Classic Tricouni VS 4b 5
84 Sunny Side Up VS 4c * 3
85 Incut/Little Gem HVS 5a * 2
  Gripple Wall
87 Muin na Muice D 7
88 Gripple Wall
-
VD 11
89 Jean A Cheval S 4a * 14
90 Warden of Gola E1 5b * 2
91 Sea Eagle HS 4b 11
92 Who Gets the Credit? HVS 5a 9
93 Ex Eagle /Big Trip /Island life VS 4c 14
94 Maid of Gola HS 4b ** 24
95 Pride of Gola S 4a *** 49
  Mhachaire na nGall Walls
97 Currach VD 7
98 The Golan Lament VS 4c * 1
99 You Forgot the Battery Mummy VS 4c * 5
100 Whoops Jonny HS 4a 1
101 The Speed of Dampness VS 4b 1
  Easter Wall
103 Bootleg S 4a 17
104 DidEye and Chinface S 4a 14
105 Speed Of Darkness HS 4a 10
106 The Mothman VS 5a 6
107 You Promised Me Jugs VS 4b 1
108 Hot Cross Buns VD ** 15
109 Resurrection HS 12
110 The Gift E2 5c *** 6
111 The Immaculate Conception of Benoit HVS 5a * 1
112 Gadaffy duck S 34
113 Barabas HS 14
114 The Angelas HS 4b 1
115 Easter Egg VS 3
116 The Passion HVS 5a ** 14
117 Jungle Scream VS 4c 5
118 Karin's Line E3 5c 4
119 Trinity E1 5c *** 11
  John's Wall
121 Reach & Grin VS 4b 2
122 For John HVS 4c * 2
123 La Giaconda E1 5b * 2
  Torglass Island
  South Walls
  South West Corner
127 Attila the Thumb HVS 5a * 2

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