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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 84
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 175m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Jon bouldering at Lion Rock © davidj

Crag features

A little string of crags and craglets, not far from the road, gives a fine and contrasting train of experiences for boulderers and routers alike. The main quarry is good vertical sandstone, with climbing on small holds or fine arĂȘtes. Lion rock is natural overhanging fare.

The crags face northeast, and are not very sunny. All the routes that are climbable come into condition quite quickly. A soft brush is useful on some routes beforehand.

Approach notes

Park at the large carpark by the old station, which is on the south side of Oakamore. Walk along the lane for about 200m to the Red Road. Follow this for 100m, then veer uphill side on a little track just before the brick wall. Go right after 30m and follow a footpath to the quarry, comprising 2 right-angled vertical walls, 300m away.

The other venues are in the woods above the path, but are most easily referenced from the quarry.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Well-Hidden Buttress
2 Bushy Assis f6A+ 3
3 Peace Traverse f6A 7
4 War and Peace f7B+ **  
5 Miss You Already f7A+ **  
6 Pain in the Assis Left-hand f6A+ 3
7 The High Priest E4 6a *  
8 Pain in the Assis Right-hand
-
f6B 1
9 Blue Nunn f6C ** 9
10 War
-
f7B *  
11 Nip
-
f6C  
12 Tuck
-
f6C  
13 Monk's Blues E3 5c *  
14 Flower Power
-
f6C+ 2
15 Tree Huggers
-
f6B+ 1
  Canticle Block
17 Leatherface
-
f6B  
18 Leatherface Finish Project
-
f?  
19 Churnet Chainsaw Massacre f6B 3
20 Sthil Life
-
f6C * 3
21 Canticle VS 4c 4
22 Canticle Start f4+ 3
23 By Ekk
-
f6C 2
24 Ekky Thump
-
f7A+ 1
25 Ex-Lion Tamer HVS 5a 1
  Lion Rock
27 Descant HS 4a 1
28 Rocket to 'em HVS 5c 1
29 Rocking Stone Crack VS 4c * 3
30 Panther Dash
-
f7C ***  
Climb name Grade
31 Micro Dyno
-
f6B 2
32 Micromaltese
-
f6B 3
33 The Pride E6 6b *** 23
34 Direct Project
-
f? ***  
35 Hand Jive E6 6a *  
36 Psalm S 1
37 Evansong VD 1
38 Magnificat S 2
39 Whirlwind f6A  
40 Little Lion's Man
-
f6A 1
41 Project
-
f? **  
42 Project
-
f? **  
43 The Whirlpool f6B *** 10
44 The Whirlpool Direct f6C *** 6
45 Spanned Out Ballet f7B * 1
46 Tiger Pants
-
f6C *  
47 Lioness f7A 4
48 The Lioness Extension f7B+ **  
  The Little Quarry
50 Lisa Lust V0- 4
51 The Whirling Pit V0 9
52 Short Ride V0 * 11
53 Roger Melly V0- 8
54 Midge Repellent f6A  
55 Billy the Fish V0- 1
56 Crumble in the Jungle V6  
57 Fat Slags
-
V3 3
58 Don't be Strangers V6  
59 Layered Cake V3 1
60 Credit Crunch V3  
Climb name Grade
61 Lawnmower Man V3 1
  Picasso Boulder
63 Boccioni
-
f7A * 1
64 The Crucifixion f7C+ ***  
65 Picasso
-
f7A+ *  
66 Picasso Sit-start
-
f7B **  
  Stoney Dale Quarry
68 Chiropodist's Nightmare
-
HS 4a  
69 Klangerman
-
HVS 5a  
70 Maid Marion
-
E1 5c 3
71 Gain Entry to Your Soul
-
E3 6b * 1
72 Robin Hood E3 6b * 24
73 Robin Hood Start V3 5
74 Cad Cam Warrior
-
E3 6a * 1
75 Cad Cam Warrior Start V4 * 4
76 Friar Muck Left-hand V3  
77 Friar Muck
-
E1 6b *  
78 Friar Muck Start f6A * 5
79 Heavenly Action
-
V6 *  
80 Long Larkin
-
E1 5b  
81 Cave Crack
-
E1 5b  
82 The Brazilian E4 5c  
83 Doin Da J'al E4 6a * 4
84 Your Own Undoing E4 6a *  
85 Longstop
-
E2 5c  
86 Little Nikki
-
E1 5c 1
87 My Mother is a Rhinoceros
-
E3 6a  
88 General Accident
-
E1 5a  
89 Dance of the Flies E2 5c 7
90 Sole Survivor E6 6b *** 35

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