Climbs 213
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 15m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

Penally West is the area west of the range boundary fence and encompasses the beautiful Becks Bay, best savoured around low tide, when these unusual water-worn cliffs expose their hidden secrets. The slabs further west contain a plethora of delightful easier-angled climbs, many ideal for beginners, while the impressive Bubbleton Crag nearer the range boundary contains some rather obscure and harder climbs. 

Approach notes

The climbing can be accessed at all times from the parking point on the grass verge on the A4139.

For the westernmost areas an alternative approach is from the National Trust car park on Lydstep Head and then walking across the beach in front of the holiday park.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Deep Water

Mike Robertson's award winning Deep Water guide, covering DWS on the English South Coast, Pembroke, Scotland and throughout the world.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Pembroke Vol 5 - Stackpole and Lydstep (2012)

Out of print:
Nice friendly crag, abseil approach but otherwise a nice place for relatively new climbers.
dunnyg - 03/May/17
ROCKFALLS following storms of February 2014. 1. Fallen boulders suspended in the decent scramble. 2. East Corner II has fallen down (East Corner I is also affected) 3. The base of the hanging slab on 'Oh for the wings of...' has fallen down affecting that route, the direct version, East Crack and Little Spacewalk.
Ed morris - 04/Mar/14
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Penally West*
  Lydstep Haven Slabs
3 Gwobr Glan Môr VS 4c 1
4 Plantar Fasciitis
-
HS 4b  
  Funnel Hole Zawn
6 Grey Funnel Line HS 4b 2
7 The Rochdale Rocket
-
HVS 5a  
8 Funnel Web E1 5b *  
9 Erf
-
E2 5b *  
10 Emergence E4 6b *  
11 Emergence Direct
-
E5 6b  
12 Orifice
-
E1 5b  
13 Inidira
-
HVS 4c  
14 Ghandi's Crack
-
E1 5b *  
15 Initiation Slab - Left
-
D 2
16 Initiation Slab - Central
-
D 2
17 Initiation Slab - Right
-
D 1
  Proud Giltar
19 Proud Giltar Buttress
-
D  
20 Proud Giltar Chimney
-
D  
21 Proud Giltar Corner
-
D  
22 Dave Against the Machine S 4a **  
23 East Chimney
-
D  
24 Proud Giltar Traverse VD  
  Lone Buttress
26 Lone Ranger
-
S 4a 2
27 Lone Arête
-
D 9
28 Fifty Choughs D 1
29 Twin Arête
-
VD * 7
  Lone Slab
31 Lone Slab VS 4b  
32 Solitary Sam
-
HVS 4c  
33 Solitary Sam Direct
-
E1 5b  
34 Lone Tone E1 5b 2
35 Half Tone
-
E1 5b  
36 Lonely Heart
-
E1 5b *  
37 Large Joint
-
E1 5a  
  Jackdaw Point
39 The Jackdaw HS 4b 59
40 The Sockdraw HVS 5a 4
41 Chunky Bunky HVS 5a * 8
42 Central Route S 4a 46
43 The Link S 4a 27
44 Resonance HVS 4c * 19
45 The Last Time I Saw Nat Allen
-
VS 4c * 27
46 Towards the Light
-
VD  
47 Do Canute * VS 4c * 1
  Jackdaw Pinnacle
49 Jackdaw Pinnacle M 4
50 Right-hand Route VD 2
51 Don Canute VS 4c * 8
52 The Slippery Slopery D 2
  Rusty Point
54 Thin Man's Meat HVS 5a  
55 Mists of Time
-
E1 5b 1
56 White Side Wall
-
E1 5b  
57 Tubeless
-
VD 7
58 Sea Tube
-
VD * 79
59 Noisy Neighbours S 4b 3
60 Left Crack
-
S 4a 10
61 The Reacher
-
VS 4c 1
  Rusty Slab
63 Mepic
-
VS 4c 1
64 South West Ridge
-
S * 36
65 Rusty Slab
-
VS 5a * 104
66 Rusty Slab Right-hand Variant VS 4c * 8
67 Ferric Slab
-
VS 4c * 50
68 Ferrous Rib
-
VS 4c 28
69 Rusty Corner
-
HS 4b * 61
70 Bake that Dude
-
E2 5b * 5
71 Rusty Crack
-
HS 4c 23
  Fisherman's Point
73 Late Groove
-
HVS 5a 2
74 Cave Route HVS 5a * 11
75 The Reeler
-
HS 4a 2
76 Chocolate Brownies S 4a * 75
77 Peppermint Creams VD 4
78 Rain Falls, Tide Rises D 20
79 While the Cat's Away VS 4c 58
80 Pollock D * 59
Climb name Grade
81 Sea Bass S 4a 71
82 Dangerous Dancer MS 4a 2
83 Whiting D 37
84 Fisherman's Path M 12
85 Icebergs Ahoy D 2
86 ?? left Hand Slab * S 4a/b  
  Recess Point and Becks Zawn
88 Recess Corner West
-
D 4
89 Recess Slab West
-
VD 5
90 Recess Slab East
-
S 4a 3
91 The Recess
-
HS 4b  
92 Trespasser Direct
-
E1 5b  
93 Trespasser Crack
-
VS 4c  
  *Becks Bay Area*
  Becks Point
96 MCW
-
VD 6
97 Pastle Slab
-
S 2
98 Inner Corner
-
D  
99 Becks Ridge
-
D 2
100 I Am Not a Number
-
VD * 2
101 Positively Barmy VD * 11
102 Becks Crack and Slab D 9
103 Becks Corner S 40
104 You Told Me This Was a Diff... E1 5a 1
105 Becks Arête
-
HS 4a 26
106 Becks Direct VS 4c 17
107 West Crack
-
D 34
108 Becks Bolero
-
E1 5a  
109 South Crack
-
D 34
110 East Crack
-
S 4a 57
111 Little Spacewalk
-
HVS 5a 13
112 Oh, for the Wings of...
-
E1 5c 20
113 Direct Start...
-
E3 5c  
114 The Dove
-
VS 4c 18
115 Cow Pat
-
VS 4c 81
116 Pull Through
-
HVS 5a 61
117 Fossil Turd
-
HVS 5b * 64
118 Itchicoo Wall
-
HS 4b * 101
119 Becks Slab
-
VD 60
120 East Corner I
-
S 4a 20
121 East Corner II
-
S 4a 11
122 East Groove
-
VD 18
  Frank's Shore
124 Jades Wall
-
VS 4b * 5
125 Judas Wall
-
VS 4b 4
126 High Tide Traverse VS 4c  
127 Fisherman's Slab
-
E2 5a  
128 Crash XS 5c 1
129 Dismorphic Corner
-
E2 5b  
130 Whetstone Whistle E2 5b 1
131 Dhrystone Wall
-
E2 5b  
132 The Exposure Enclosure E2 5c *  
133 Pat on the Beck
-
S  
  Scoop Wall
135 Banana Split
-
E2 5b  
136 Marble Arch
-
E2 5b  
137 Batman E3 5c ** 1
138 Mutley
-
E3 5c ** 5
139 Dreamscape
-
E6 6b  
140 Magic Flute E1 5b *** 61
141 The Scoop E3 5c *** 11
142 The Piano E4 6a **  
143 Udge E3 5c *  
144 Hang Dog
-
E3 6a  
145 Swing Cat
-
E1 5c  
146 Wild Thing
-
E2 5c  
147 Boulder Holder
-
HVS 4c  
148 Beach Games Alt Start
-
HVS 5b  
149 Beach Games
-
VS 4c  
150 Out and Out
-
E2 5b  
151 Boisterous Slab
-
HVS 4c  
152 Y Tro Cyntaf
-
E1 5a  
153 Bend It Like Becks
-
E2 6a  
154 Green Piece
-
HVS 5a *  
155 Buckets of Fun
-
E1 5b * 2
156 Rough and Ready
-
HVS 5b  
  Finland
158 An Eliminate Waiting to Happen
-
VS 4c 1
159 Get Shorty
-
E2 5c  
160 Eddie's Roof Route
-
HVS 4c  
Climb name Grade
161 Monopolies Commission
-
HVS 5a 1
162 The Mighty Quinn
-
HVS 5a  
163 The Rankler
-
E4 6a *  
164 Loud, Proud, and Well Endowed
-
E2 5c * 1
165 Partick Thistle Nil
-
E1 5c *  
166 Wee Eddie
-
VS 4c  
167 Relegation Arête
-
VD  
168 The Hampden Roar
-
E2 5b * 1
169 Seaside Rendezvous
-
VS 4c  
170 500 Miles
-
E3 5c  
171 The Wasted Years
-
E1 5b  
172 Zawn Chorus
-
E2 5c  
173 Funnel Vision
-
E1 5b  
174 Aquabatics
-
E3 5c  
175 Tidal Times HVS 5b  
176 Rumple Scrump HVS 5b  
177 The Beckoning
-
HVS 5b  
  Bubbleton Crag
179 Star Shot E3 5c ** 1
180 The Long Wait
-
E3 5c * 1
181 The Umbrella
-
E1 5b * 1
182 Fresh Slant
-
E2 5b  
183 Purple Rain E1 5b  
184 The Moon's a Balloon E2 5b * 1
185 Honey Pie E3 5c * 1
186 T Bone
-
E3 5c *  
187 First in the Firing Line
-
VS 4c * 2
188 The Long Goodbye
-
E3 5c **  
189 Barnstormer
-
E2 5b *  
190 Brand New Dance
-
E2 5b *  
191 Jam on It
-
VS 4c *  
192 The Great Escape
-
D  
  *Range Boundary Crags*
  Skylight Zawn
195 Penally Clause
-
E1 5b 1
196 Morning Star
-
E3 5c  
197 The Jet Miner
-
E5 6b  
198 Asteroid E3 5c **  
  Rubble Wall
200 Halfing
-
VD 1
201 Loose Laces
-
S 1
202 Daylight Robbery
-
VS 4c  
203 Grimly Fiendish
-
E3 6a  
204 Alpha 5b  
205 Bravo 5c  
206 Charlie 5c  
207 Delta 5c  
208 Echo 6a+  
  Concrete Zawn
210 Nice but Dim 6b+ ** 3
211 Wimpey
-
E1 5a  
212 Pre-Stressed
-
E2 5c *  
213 The Dodger
-
HVS 5a  
214 The Mixer
-
HS 4b  
215 Readymix HVS 5a *  
  Fence Slabs
217 Hammy the Hamster
-
VS 4b  
218 Ravens Watch
-
E1 5b  
219 Scarecrow
-
E2 5b  
220 Corvus Chorus
-
E3 5c  
221 Rave On
-
E4 5c  
222 Triceratops E2 5b * 2
223 Gladiator E3 5c ** 5
  Fence Walls
225 Doctor Findlay I Presume? E4 5c *  
226 Who the **** Are You?
-
E2 5b  
227 Buttress Climb
-
HVS 5a  
  Bouldering
229 Marmite Cave Traverse V3 ** 2
230 We are the Lucky Ones V4 * 1
231 Apollo V1 * 1
232 Hardwell V3 * 1
233 Scalloped Traverse V3 * 1
234 Greg's Roof V7 *** 1
235 Cersei V5 ** 1
236 Xanadu V5 ** 1
237 Parisella's Obsession Club V1 * 1
238 Still Giving V4 * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer ERU