Climbs 150
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 422m a.s.l
Faces E

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Charlie's overhang. Newstones. © Mike W

Crag features

Two crags which are always treated as one, mainly because you have to walk past the Newstones to get to the Baldstones. They have a similar character being lumps of rock rather than edges - a little too tall for bouldering in parts, but also mostly too small for routes. The lovely location and easy access means that they are quite popular.

The crags are mostly east-facing getting morning sun. They are exposed to the wind but tend not to get too green. The rock can be gritty after rain.

Approach notes

There is parking for half a dozen cars on the roadside by the cottage. Take the track to the right of the cottages to arrive at the obvious nose of Charlie's Overhang, the first buttress of the Newstones, in about 5 mins. To reach Baldstones continue along the base of the crag to its end and a stile. Cross this, then follow the ridge downhill along the line of the collapsed drystone wall to reach the cliff which remains hidden until one is quite close.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
I am only moderating this crag because It is a sin not too.... If you are more local than me please let me know and i will pass them over.... Pete J
peteJ23 - 02/Dec/10
watch charlies overhang, nicely dislocated my ankle jumping off it on sunday...
Will_he_fall - 30/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Newstones*
  Charlie's Overhang
3 Slap and Tickle V3 4
4 S & M Left-hand
-
f6C ** 36
5 S & M Left-hand Sit-start
-
f7A ** 11
6 S & M f7A+ *** 62
7 S & M Sit-start
-
f7B ** 10
8 Leather Joy Boys f7B *** 7
9 Little Traverse f6A * 69
10 Charlie's Overhang f6B *** 98
11 Newstones Chimney D 60
12 Moonshine f5 * 23
13 Praying Mantel HVS 5b * 42
14 Praying Mantel Start f6C 42
15 Wraparound Arête f6C * 16
16 Coffee & Wallnut Cake f5+ * 52
17 The final stretch * f5 ** 2
  Top Block
19 Left Twin Arête f3 * 239
20 Right Twin Arête f4 ** 258
21 Flake Slab f5 * 183
22 Flake Slab Eliminate f5+ * 83
23 Square Cut Face f6A * 274
24 Left Arête f5+ * 403
25 Wall and Mono f6A+ * 231
26 Varicose f6A+ ** 380
27 Varicose Traverse f6A * 88
28 The Grinding Sloper f6A * 271
29 Easy Slab f3 * 312
30 Easy Slab Right-hand f2+ * 231
31 Easy Crack f2+ * 117
32 Right Arête f5+ * 197
  Hazel Barn Buttress
34 Ripple f6B+ *** 232
35 Martin's Direct f6A * 19
36 Martin's Traverse f5 ** 179
37 Crack and Arête f6A+ ** 168
38 Short Wall f5+ * 63
39 Short Chimney D 36
40 Hazel Barrow Crack S 4a * 148
41 Hazel Barn VD * 170
42 Hazel Traverse f6A+ *** 17
43 Hazel Groove f5+ ** 75
44 Nutmeg HS 4b 138
45 Nutmeg Groove f5+ ** 130
46 Hammy f6A ** 139
47 Mister Coconut f6A+ 11
  Sly Buttress
49 Scratch Wall f6A 16
50 Scratch Crack f5 * 158
51 Scratch Crack Sit-start
-
f6A 20
52 Scratch Arête f6C * 9
53 Itchy Groove f6B+ ** 54
54 Itchy Fingers f6A * 118
Climb name Grade
55 Bridget f4+ * 162
56 Traverse of the Dyke
-
f5+ 23
57 Jam Crack
-
f3+ 14
58 Flakes and Criss-Cross Dykes
-
f3 13
59 Drain the Main Vein E1 5b * 6
60 The Puffter E3 6b ** 1
61 Puffed Up E4 6b * 3
62 Ponsified E4 6a  
63 Rhynose VS 4c * 48
64 The Low Level Traverse of the East Face of Rhynose Buttress
-
f5 19
65 Undercut Arête of Rhynose Buttress
-
f5+ 9
66 Hippo VD 91
67 Rosehip S 4b 110
68 The Witch D * 90
69 Candy Man S 4a 58
70 Trepidation E4 6a 4
71 Sly Traverse f5 * 52
72 Stallone Arête f6C+ ** 180
73 Char's Traverse f7B 5
74 Sly Stallone f6C *** 216
75 Sly Stallone Eliminate f7A 37
76 The Snake HS 4b 16
77 The Fox E2 5b * 8
78 The Vixen HVS 5a * 28
79 The Sly Mantelshelf f5+ ** 31
80 Valley of Ultravixens E3 5c * 5
81 Sly Super Direct f6A * 24
82 Captain Quark f6C+ ** 32
83 Sly Direct f5 * 28
84 Sly Corner VS 4c * 23
85 The Boy at the Window f6B+ 1
86 Sylvester's Injection * f4 * 1
  Stegosaurus Wall
88 Tiny Crack f4 * 69
89 Left Crack f5 * 41
90 Tyrannosaurus Hex f4+ * 91
91 Prehistoric Offwidth f4 * 89
92 The Clanger f5+ 19
93 Soup Dragon f5 24
94 Clammy Wall f4 * 31
95 Yo Clam f4+ * 64
96 Clammy Hands f4+ * 30
  *Baldstones*
  Baldstones Pinnacle
99 Perambulator Parade VD ** 63
100 Pants on Fire HVS 5a * 11
101 Incognito VS 4c * 35
102 Baldstones Face VS 4b ** 77
103 Navigating the Stone E1 5a *  
104 Original Route E2 6a *** 43
105 Original Start f5+ * 9
106 Baldstones Arête HVS 4c *** 97
107 Stone the Navigator E1 5b *  
108 Mongolian Throat Singing
-
E1 5b 1
Climb name Grade
109 Prelude to XB
-
E4 5c  
110 Burning Pete
-
V8 6c  
111 Tasmanian Tendencies E2 5b * 7
  Gold Rush Buttress
113 National Hysteria
-
E5 6b  
114 Gold Rush E4 5c * 3
115 Goldsitch Crack HVS 4c * 11
116 Baldy f6A+ * 75
117 Baldstone Dyno f6B+ *** 54
118 Throwball f7A+ ** 3
119 Baldstones Low f7B+ * 3
120 Mank Muffin f6B 1
121 Baldstones Traverse f7A+ ** 101
122 Baldstones Traverse - Throwball Link
-
f7B ** 2
123 Easy Exit f6A+ ** 53
124 Crank Cuffin f7C * 2
125 Riding the Gravy Train
-
E6 6c  
126 Blackbank Crack VD 6
127 Forking Chimney D * 16
128 Bareleg Wall VS 4b 21
129 Morridge Top VS 5a 8
  Rays Roof
131 Minipin Crack VD 12
132 Last Banana Before Sunset f5+ * 4
133 All-Star's Wall HVS 5a * 11
134 Ray's Roof E7 6c *** 9
135 Johnny's Indirect Rear Entry E5 6b  
136 Indirect Arête f7A+ 1
137 Indirect Arête Right f5+ * 19
138 My Slippy Shoe * V2 1
139 Direct Indirect * V2  
  Elephant's Ear Buttress
141 Ganderhole Crack S 4a 14
142 Fielder's Indirect f5 * 14
143 Fielder's Corner f6A+ * 31
144 Fielder's Wall f7B ** 3
145 Elephant's Eye f6B+ *** 59
146 Elephant's Ear f4+ *** 197
147 Elephant's Ear Sit-start f6C 7
148 Clever Skin Left-hand f7B+ **  
149 Clever Skin f7A+ ** 14
150 Lucid Dreams
-
E2 6a 1
151 Pyeclough
-
VS 4b 5
152 Heathylee S 4a 9
153 End Game
-
VD 6
154 Styli * D  
155 The Wart f7A+  
156 Baby Elephant Walk * f6A 1
  Double Overhang Bouldering
158 Double Overhang: Juggy Flake
-
V0 5
159 Double Overhang: Below the Flake
-
V2 2
160 Double Overhang: Overhanging Crack
-
V2 2
161 Double Overhang: Short Crack
-
V0- 3
162 Double Overhang: Between the Cracks
-
V2 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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