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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 152
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 422m a.s.l
Faces E

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Charlie's overhang. Newstones. © Mike W

Crag features

Two crags which are always treated as one, mainly because you have to walk past the Newstones to get to the Baldstones. They have a similar character being lumps of rock rather than edges - a little too tall for bouldering in parts, but also mostly too small for routes. The lovely location and easy access means that they are quite popular.

The crags are mostly east-facing getting morning sun. They are exposed to the wind but tend not to get too green. The rock can be gritty after rain.

Approach notes

There is parking for half a dozen cars on the roadside by the cottage. Take the track to the right of the cottages to arrive at the obvious nose of Charlie's Overhang, the first buttress of the Newstones, in about 5 mins. To reach Baldstones continue along the base of the crag to its end and a stile. Cross this, then follow the ridge downhill along the line of the collapsed drystone wall to reach the cliff which remains hidden until one is quite close.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
I am only moderating this crag because It is a sin not too.... If you are more local than me please let me know and i will pass them over.... Pete J
peteJ23 - 02/Dec/10
watch charlies overhang, nicely dislocated my ankle jumping off it on sunday...
Will_he_fall - 30/Mar/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Newstones*
  Charlie's Overhang
3 Slap and Tickle V3 5
4 S & M Left-hand
-
f6C ** 37
5 S & M Left-hand Sit-start
-
f7A ** 12
6 S & M f7A+ *** 65
7 S & M Sit-start
-
f7B ** 12
8 Leather Joy Boys f7B *** 8
9 Little Traverse f6A * 72
10 Charlie's Overhang f6B *** 104
11 The Final Stretch f5 ** 4
12 Newstones Chimney D 61
13 Moonshine f5 * 23
14 Praying Mantel HVS 5b * 42
15 Praying Mantel Start f6C 44
16 Wraparound Arête f6C * 17
17 Coffee & Wallnut Cake f5+ * 52
  Top Block
19 Left Twin Arête f3 * 242
20 Right Twin Arête f4 ** 263
21 Flake Slab f5 * 191
22 Flake Slab Eliminate f5+ * 87
23 Square Cut Face f6A * 281
24 Left Arête f5+ * 414
25 Wall and Mono f6A+ * 227
26 Varicose f6A+ ** 391
27 Varicose Traverse f6A * 88
28 The Grinding Sloper f6A * 279
29 Easy Slab f3 * 323
30 Easy Crack f2+ * 124
31 Easy Slab Right-hand f2+ * 239
32 Right Arête f5+ * 200
  Hazel Barn Buttress
34 Ripple f6B+ *** 247
35 Martin's Direct f6A * 24
36 Martin's Traverse f5 ** 185
37 Crack and Arête f6A+ ** 183
38 Short Wall f5+ * 64
39 Short Chimney D 36
40 Hazel Barrow Crack S 4a * 150
41 Hazel Barn VD * 173
42 Hazel Traverse f6A+ *** 21
43 Hazel Groove f5+ ** 77
44 Nutmeg HS 4b 140
45 Nutmeg Groove f5+ ** 135
46 Hammy f6A ** 152
47 Mister Coconut f6A+ 13
  Rhynose Buttress
49 Scratch Wall f6A 16
50 Scratch Crack f5 * 164
51 Scratch Crack Sit-start
-
f6A 20
52 Scratch Arête f6C * 10
53 Itchy Groove f6B+ ** 58
54 Itchy Fingers f6A * 126
55 Bridget f4+ * 165
Climb name Grade
56 Sylvester's Injection f4 * 1
57 Traverse of the Dyke
-
f5+ 23
58 Jam Crack
-
f3+ 14
59 Flakes and Criss-Cross Dykes
-
f3 14
60 Drain the Main Vein E1 5b * 6
61 The Puffter E3 6b ** 1
62 Puffed Up E4 6b * 3
63 Ponsified E4 6a  
64 Rhynose VS 4c * 51
65 The Low Level Traverse of the East Face of Rhynose Buttress
-
f5 20
66 Undercut Arête of Rhynose Buttress
-
f5+ 10
67 Hippo VD 93
68 Rosehip S 4b 110
69 The Witch D * 92
70 Candy Man S 4a 59
  Sly Buttress
72 Trepidation E4 6a 2
73 Stallone Arête f6C+ ** 186
74 Sly Traverse f5 * 56
75 Char's Traverse f7B 5
76 Sly Stallone f6C *** 226
77 Sly Stallone Eliminate f7A 41
78 The Snake HS 4b 16
79 The Fox E2 5b * 8
80 The Vixen HVS 5a * 32
81 Valley of Ultravixens E3 5c * 5
82 The Sly Mantelshelf f5+ ** 33
83 Sly Super Direct f6A * 24
84 Captain Quark f6C+ ** 32
85 Sly Direct f5 * 29
86 Sly Corner VS 4c * 23
87 The Boy at the Window f6B+ 1
  Stegosaurus Wall
89 Tiny Crack f4 * 72
90 Left Crack f5 * 44
91 Tyrannosaurus Hex f4+ * 95
92 Prehistoric Offwidth f4 * 92
93 The Clanger f5+ 20
94 Soup Dragon f5 26
95 Clammy Wall f4 * 34
96 Yo Clam f4+ * 66
97 Clammy Hands f4+ * 33
  *Baldstones*
  Baldstones Pinnacle
100 Perambulator Parade VD ** 65
101 Pants on Fire HVS 5a * 12
102 Incognito VS 4c * 38
103 Baldstones Face VS 4b ** 81
104 Navigating the Stone E1 5a *  
105 Original Route E2 6a *** 44
106 Original Start f5+ * 10
107 Mongolian Throat Singing
-
E1 5b 1
108 Baldstones Arête HVS 4c *** 101
109 Stone the Navigator E1 5b *  
110 Prelude to XB
-
E4 5c  
Climb name Grade
111 Burning Pete
-
V8 6c  
112 Tasmanian Tendencies E2 5b * 7
  Gold Rush Buttress
114 National Hysteria
-
E5 6b  
115 Gold Rush E4 5c * 3
116 Goldsitch Crack HVS 4c * 12
117 Baldy f6A+ * 81
118 Baldstone Dyno f6B+ *** 56
119 Throwball f7A+ ** 3
120 Baldstones Low f7B+ * 3
121 Mank Muffin f6B 2
122 Baldstones Traverse f7A+ ** 112
123 Baldstones Traverse - Throwball Link
-
f7B ** 2
124 Easy Exit f6A+ ** 58
125 Crank Cuffin f7C * 2
126 Riding the Gravy Train
-
E6 6c  
127 Blackbank Crack VD 6
128 Forking Chimney D * 16
129 Bareleg Wall VS 4b 21
130 Morridge Top VS 5a 8
  Rays Roof
132 Minipin Crack VD 12
133 Last Banana Before Sunset f5+ * 5
134 All-Star's Wall HVS 5a * 11
135 Ray's Roof E7 6c *** 10
136 Johnny's Indirect Rear Entry E5 6b  
137 Indirect Arête f7A+ 1
138 Indirect Arête Right f5+ * 23
139 Direct Indirect * V2 1
  Elephant's Ear Buttress
141 Ganderhole Crack S 4a 15
142 Fielder's Indirect f5 * 14
143 Fielder's Corner f6A+ * 32
144 Fielder's Wall f7B ** 3
145 Elephant's Eye f6B+ *** 62
146 Elephant's Ear f4+ *** 206
147 Elephant's Ear Sit-start f6C 8
148 Clever Skin Left-hand f7B+ **  
149 Clever Skin f7A+ ** 14
150 Groove and Arête
-
V1  
151 Bun Mantel Left
-
V3  
152 The Wart f7A+  
153 Bun Mantel Right
-
V3  
154 Baby Elephant Walk * f6A 2
155 Lucid Dreams
-
E2 6a 1
156 Pyeclough
-
VS 4b 5
157 Heathylee
-
S 4a 10
158 End Game
-
VS 4b 6
159 Styli D  
  Double Overhang Bouldering
161 Juggy Flake
-
V0 6
162 Below the Flake
-
V2 3
163 Overhanging Crack
-
V2 3
164 Short Crack
-
V0- 4
165 Between the Cracks
-
V2 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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