Climbs 42
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces NW

Nearing the end of the runout on pitch 2 of Thiras Mirith (E2 5b), Lofoten Islands. © ali k

Crag features

The road to Henningsvaer crosses the narrow neck of Djupford on a causeway, and a quick "eyes left" will reveal a mountain side of high quality granite running along the eastern side of the fjord. These are the flanks of Budalstinden. Beyond the end of the fjord, and rising above the freshwater lake of Djupfordvatnet (hidden from the road) is the great spur that forms the north-west buttress of Vagakallen which terminates in Point 713m, and is known to climbers simply as Pillaren (the Pillar), it is home to one of the most sought after routes on Lofoten, the great classic of Bare blaber.

Crags get the sun from about mid afternoon onwards and the majority of routes will require a few settled days after rain to drain.

Approach notes

Bare blaber and the routes of Pillaren and the eastern side of Budalstinden are approached by following the path along the north-western shore of Djupford to the terminal moraine that cuts across the valley-allow about an hour. The Two Faces Face and Sjosvaet (the Sea Slab) are reached from parking by the bend on the Henningsvaer side of the causeway.

Rockfax App

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The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Lofoten Climbs

The second Rockfax guidebook to this spectacular and beautiful area, the first 2008 volume won the Banff Guidebook of the Year Award and put Lofoten very much on the map. The information has been updated and expanded with a completely new set of crag photographs, plus some fantastic maps and all the new developments from the nine years since the last book was published. For the first time the astounding set of peaks around the Stetind area on the mainland have been included.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Coley Smoke
2 There is to Do n6- *  
3 Job to Do n5+ *  
4 Coley Smoke n5 *** 23
5 Children Playing n5 *  
6 Child's Play n5+ *** 15
7 Very Expensive Ticket n7 **  
8 Rännesnärja n5- ** 1
  Bare blåbær
10 Whale Meet Again n7-  
11 Bare blaveis n6+ *** 1
12 Filling in the Blanks n6- *** 1
13 Bare Blåbær n5- *** 222
14 Thiras Mirith n6 ** 4
15 Triumfbuen n6 *  
  Pillaren
17 Bare Bacalao n7+ **  
18 Der König Hat Gesprochen n7- ***  
19 Haakon's Restless Crack n4+ * 1
20 Celebrian n6- ** 2
21 Goodbye High School n7- ***  
22 Høstgull n7- ***  
23 Elgfesten n6 **  
24 Danske Ruta n6+ **  
  Budalstinden
26 Budals pillaren n6+ **  
27 Skvis n6+ *  
28 Kjære frøken Johansson n6+ *  
29 Bibel hjørnet n5+ **  
  Djupfjord Wall
31 Lady of the Lake n9- ***  
32 Norwegian Wood n7 ***  
33 Dorisraffset n8- ***  
34 Rataxes n7+ ***  
35 Henry-Expressen n7- **  
36 Trapezium Wall n8+ ***  
  Djupfjord and Two Faces Buttresses
38 Fish Restaurant n5+ ** 7
39 The Best of Nothing n5 *  
40 Djupfjord Buttress n5+ ** 4
41 Mandragora n6 **  
42 Dr. Jekyll n6 ** 8
43 Mr Hyde n6+ **  
  Sjøsvaet (The Sea Slab)
45 Lay-bye Layback n7+ *  
46 Ørnens Brødre n7 **  
47 Solens sønner n6 *** 33
48 Manens Døtre n6 *** 13
49 Skåningen n5+ *  

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