Climbs 30
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 10m a.s.l
Faces W
sunset at allens sunbeach cambrian coast © james dexter
h sea washed rock with many prows providing hard bouldering challanges above a pebble beach : accessible 3 hours either side of high tide and the south end probably for longer .at the moment 12 short(9 metres max) bolted sport routes 5c to 7b+. : there are also good trad routes following the obvious crack lines in the various bays : worth a visit if you are in the area.Usually just called Sunbeach now as they seem to have dropped the Allen's bit.
Whilst it is possible to drive down through the caravan park of (Allens) Sunbeach just south of Llwyngwril in Meirionnydd it is a private park and not open to the public.If you do drive down you can park in a carpark by the beach and walk south along the beach for 600 m: gates close 6 pm so it is better to park in a good layby further south on the main road 300 metres past the Sunbeach entrance : It is possible to then walk acrosss the gated level crossing down into the caravan park to reach the beach in minutes: Or park by LLwyngwril village train station and follow the beach south for 30 minutes.The caravan park is private and special permission is required to take a vehicle through.It appears that there is an access line marked on the OS indicating the level crossing just south of the entrance to the park but it is not clear if this a right of way As with all level crossing be careful.
checked this place out a few days ago, really nice spot on the beach. We parked in the layby just south of the main entrance to the caravan park where the level crossing gates are and jumped over and walked down to the beach. We climbed at low tide but the tide did come in after a while and we had to pack up swiftly, if you get cut off you can scramble up the easy slopers and over the top. Theres a line of anchors along the top of the rocks where you can walk along, wish we found these first! the bolts all look good. You'll need some extra rope to extend your top anchors over the rock if you want to set up a top rope before climbing. Nick fox - 17/Sep/23 |
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We arrived at the crag at 1-1:30pm. The tide was in on the first part of the crag, but if you walk up and over the grass you can get to the middle part of the crag easily (little down climb in the middle) and climb there at this time :) KeriV - 10/May/14 |
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thanks for that mat and great to meet you two .
we do have some more lines to bolt up and the best place to send any donations to is the north wales bolt fund. Chris Parkin is in charge of all that and he has been very helpful and supportive
for bouldering I also recommend Creggennan lake above arthog for the views and the quality of the rock and no worries about tides . There is a topo on the midwalesclimbing.com site
terry tat - 21/Sep/11 |
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Great little crag. Nice routes (that I tried) and bouldering looks amazing. Also helped by amazing setting and friendly locals! Do you have a bolt fund or anything set up Terry? Happy to drop some money in there to help out. I definitely owe you guys one anyway after the rescue! hope to be back down next year mattwilk - 20/Sep/11 |
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