Climbs 70
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude 40m a.s.l
Faces E

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a rather stout "Woman of the 80s", Staffin Slip South © graeme thomson

Crag features

Some of Britain's best crack climbs. The northern end of the South crag sees regular traffic now from local climbers, and is the perfect place to hone your crack climbing skills. 

Approach notes

Easy walk down from a flat field or walk easily up from Staffin jetty. Great situation..

Many of the routes, especially those at the right end of the Crag have been cleaned this spring - thanks to now local James Sutton. Last year I thought I’d nip down Experimental Learning for half an hour and give it a quick clean - took 4 hours! Now probably worth the 4 stars it gets in SMC selective guide. Was unclimbable prior to my scrubbing...
Gary Latter - 08/Jul/18
This crag should be way more popular, it's excellent.
Andy Moles - 07/Jun/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Staffin Slip North
2 Staffin Follies E2 5b  
3 Post Marital Blues E2 5b * 1
4 My Favourite Game E2 5b *  
5 The Swelling E1 5b ** 3
6 Snake Bite E2 5b *** 2
7 Destitution Road HVS 5b *  
8 Staffin Classic (a.k.a. Kilt Classic) E2 5b *** 20
9 Jean and Jim E1 5b **  
10 Silvester Moon HVS 5a *  
11 Return Of The Stone HS 4b ** 30
12 Mr Scratchy E1 5b *  
13 Savage Son E3 5c *  
14 Skyscraper E3 5c *  
15 Frequent Flyer HVS 5b **  
16 Independence E2 5b *  
17 Vienna Triangle E1 5b *  
18 Tremor E2 5c *  
  toy buttress
20 Toy VS 4c * 1
Climb name Grade
21 Above And Beyond HVS 5a *  
22 Hold Music HVS 5a *  
  Staffin Slip South
24 Lateral Thinking E1 5b ** 9
25 Hand Jive E2 5c ** 6
26 Jugs of Deception E4 6a ** 2
27 Lat up a Drainpipe HVS 5b ** 20
28 The Avon Man E2 5c ** 2
29 Swillington Common E2 5c ** 3
30 Dial Card E2 5c ** 13
31 Silly Pollack Two E3 6a *  
32 Captain Patience E3 5c *** 9
33 Glorious Five year Plan E2 5c **  
34 The Latvian E2 5c ** 2
35 Lats In Space E1 5b * 2
36 Sasha E3 5c *** 9
37 Windom Earle E2 5c ** 4
38 Easy Day For A Lady HVS 5a ** 2
39 Woman Of The Eighties E3 5c *** 6
40 Gorbachev E2 5b *** 51
Climb name Grade
41 The Sheriff's Black Dog E2 5b * 1
42 Experimental Learning E3 6a *** 4
43 Silly Pollack E2 5b ** 1
44 Fire Walk With Me E3 5c *** 1
45 Birdman of Bewaldeth E3 6a *** 2
46 The Beast of Bolsover E2 5b ** 1
47 Lusting After Glenys Kinnock. E2 5b **  
48 Green Vote E3 5c *** 6
49 Wildwood E5 6a *** 2
50 East Chimney Crack
-
HVS 5a **  
51 Dawn of Time VS 4b  
  South Buttress
53 Licking Nettles E3 5c *** 1
  Moved climbs
55 Return to Stone
-
S 4b 1
56 Dogs and Wolves HS 4b 3
  Moved climbs from Staffin Slip
58 Fiddler's Elbow
-
VD 2
59 Deception
-
S 1
60 Heracles E2 5b ***  

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