Climbs 97
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

Matt Davis on Gecko © m_p_davis

Crag features

The climbs are in a disused limestone quarry 12 miles SW of Kilkenny. It is a pleasant wooded area and the quarry has been cleaned up to create an amenity area. The majority of the routes are 7-10m high, a few in double figures. Grades up to E3. Bolts have been used but this is not a sport climbing cliff.

Approach notes

Ballykeefe Quarry is located between Kilkenny and Kilmanagh (Map Ref. 240700150900) on the R695 (on signpost) aka L26A (on 1/2 inch map Sheet 18) 7.5 miles (12 km) from Kilkenny, 5 miles (8 km) from Callan. On the way from Kilkenny, you pass through the village of Ballycallan (don't blink) in which is located the shop and pub known as 'The Pound' to which climbers usually repair. (Also recommended are Ryan's or Mc Cluskey's in Kilmanagh, two miles the far side of the quarry). The road sweeps around to the south side of the hill, covered by Ballykeefe Wood. The quarry is clearly visible from the road.

There is a little car park at the eastern side intended for visitors to the wood; a duck through the bushes here gives instant access to the quarry. Please try to avoid parking at the quarry gateway; the gates open outwards and council lorries need to get in and out at the most unlikely times.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Sylvester VD 6
2 Aristotle
-
HS 4b 9
3 Bill and Ben
-
S 4a 11
4 Plato
-
HS 4b 4
5 Steering Wheel
-
HS 4b 5
6 Oggy and the Cockroaches VS 4c * 17
7 GTX
-
HS 4b 7
8 Cadet Crack
-
HS 4b 4
9 Crooked Crack
-
VD 7
10 First Corner
-
VD 5
11 Cliffhanger HVS 5a 5
12 Kestrel Crack
-
E1 5b 9
13 The Eiger Sanction 6a 9
14 Kevin's Corner HVS 5a 15
15 The Animal 6b+ 8
16 Aardvark
-
5c 6
17 Rosehip Crack
-
VS 5a 5
18 The Pope's Nose
-
HS 4b 2
19 The Vatican
-
VS 4c 3
20 Paradise Crack
-
HS 4b 4
21 Dented Ego
-
HS 4b 6
22 Nailbreaker
-
HS 4b 2
23 Lady Jane
-
HVS 5a 5
24 Push your granny HS 4c ** 14
25 Cut the Tree
-
HS 4b 4
26 Sally Crack
-
S 4a 5
27 Painted Lady
-
HVS 5a 9
28 Knock Airport 6a+ 4
29 Soap Gut
-
HS 2
30 White Elephant Direct 6a 9
31 Stinger 6b 4
32 Mt. Rushmore 5c 5
33 The Brendan Voyage 5a 4
34 Zig and Zag
-
HS 1
35 The Teaser 6a 3
36 Broken Stairs VS 4c 4
37 Abednego
-
HVS 5a  
38 Ford Wall
-
E1 5b  
39 Rugrats
-
VD  
40 Jim Crack
-
VD  
41 Miss Piggy
-
6a 4
42 Pigeon
-
6b 2
43 Cats
-
6b+ 3
44 The Last Pig
-
6b+ 3
45 Makin' Whoopee
-
6b 3
46 Rosehip Crack - Direct Finish
-
VS 5a  
47 Easy Street
-
6a+ 1
48 Undercut Alley
-
E1 5c  
49 Undercut Alley - Direct Start
-
6a 1
50 Ichabod
-
6b 1
51 Slab Direct
-
HS 4a  
52 Slab RHS
-
HS 4a  
53 Shadrach
-
HVS 5a  
54 Meshach
-
HVS 5a 2
55 Bishop's Nose
-
4a 4
56 Clover
-
S 4a 2
57 The Pooka
-
6a 1
58 Disc
-
6a 1
59 Spreadeagle
-
6b 5
60 Ascent Route
-
D 2
61 Apres Mars
-
6b 1
62 Open Book
-
6a 1
63 The Prow
-
6b 1
64 Indian Summer 6b 1
65 Gecko 7a 3
66 Komodo 6b 1
67 Purging Flax
-
HS 4c  
68 Empire State 6b 1
69 Blackstonia 6b 1
70 The Hen's Nest 6b 1
71 Blood on the tracks 6b 1
72 Evening Press Reissue
-
HS 1
73 Ascent Route Direct
-
S  
74 Feddan
-
VS 5a  
75 Palatine Street
-
VS 4c  
76 The Whangie
-
S 4a  
77 Melanophy's
-
HS 4b  
78 Visions of Johanna
-
HS 4b  
79 Ezekiel Saw a Wheel
-
VS 5a  
80 Ain't it just like the Night
-
HVS 5a  
81 Louise
-
VS 4c  
82 Key Chain
-
HS 4b 2
83 Small Talk at the Wall
-
S 4a 2
84 Jane's Granny
-
S 4a  
85 Jane's Aunt
-
S 4a  
86 Monkey's Tail
-
S 4a 1
87 Sally's Crack Upper
-
VD  
88 Widowmaker
-
HVS 5b  
89 Twinkletoes 6a 1
90 Gromwell 6a 2
91 Fear Breage Ascent Route
-
D 1
92 Central Crack
-
VD  
93 Fear Breage's Toenail
-
D  
94 Tom Joad
-
VS  
95 Preacher Casey
-
VS  
96 Jenga
-
S  
97 Kevin's Corner Direct 6a 3

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