Climbs 37
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces S

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bouldering at sandyhills,dumfries © coolboy

Approach notes

Car Park next to caravan park as for sandyhills bay. Head West over footbridge and past some nets to the main bay some 50 meters or so past the nets.

Just right of Needle's eye is a cave called pipers cave. If you go in you will soon come across the back wall. If your small enough you can army crawl throught a small opening. Cave opens out and you'll need a torch. The cave/mine runs back aproxemately 60m. Be warned that the tide can reach this cave so make sure you are aware of the tide times and have plenty of time.
K_MacLeod - 25/Aug/08
Park in car park for sandyhills. 1.50 for all day. Tokens sold in shop. Head West (to the right if facing water) allong the beach over footbridge you will first come to a selection of boulders. Follow the cove round and past some nets to the main bay.
K_MacLeod - 25/Aug/08
There is good bouldering at sandyhills. Nice to bring a BBQ and make a day of it. There are not many listed climbs at sandyhills but there will be more posted as I climb them. I am still in the process of researching existing routes and will be adding routes of my own if there not already listed. There is the caravaning and camping nearby and a shop too. You can buy a little tide times book from the shop (very handy).
K_MacLeod - 25/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Amethyst Crack E1 5a 1
2 Needle's eye E3 5c 1
3 Mary's Massive Mango's
f6C 7
4 My Evil Twin
f8A+ 2
5 My Evil Twin (easiest way) f7A 1
6 Ejector Seat
f6B * 9
7 V3
f6A 4
8 Twin Flake
f5 11
9 The Crack
f6B 5
10 Flizz Off
f6C ** 13
11 SDS Flizz Off
f7A ** 9
12 Ruff Slab
f4 5
13 Toothie Ruthie
f5 7
Climb name Grade
14 Flizz
f6A * 6
15 The Bay
f6B 2
16 G f6A *** 8
17 Right Wall f4 2
18 Problem 1 f5 2
19 Problem 2 f5 2
20 Problem 3 - My Dyno f6A+ 2
21 High Tide V2 1
22 Court Room Traverse V5 2
23 Sunset Sprint f6A 2
24 Long Reach f5+ 3
25 Slab Boulder Side Pull f5+ 2
26 Red Alert f6B 1
Climb name Grade
27 Redshift f6A+ 2
28 Easyside f4+ 1
29 Southside f6B 1
30 Southside Sun f6C  
31 The Otherside f6B  
32 Sloper Problem f6A 1
33 Hansel f6B+ 3
34 Gretel f6A 1
35 Breadcrumbs f6C+ ** 2
36 The Witch f7B+ * 1
37 Black Moss * f5 ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]