Climbs 30
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces NW

Chris gets to the "car hang jam". © althesin

Crag features

Part quarried part natural soft sandstone. Soft rock and good landings mean soloing is usually the best means of climbing. Belay bolts have been placed at the top of all climbs and these should be used to protect the sandy tops and trees.

(Update March 2011 - just mountain bike'd past) Crag is now ruined (imho) by placement of dozens of bolts(?) - anyway, things to clip into. Above all, the lovely 4b crack with super nut placements - cream of the routes - that we used to climb in the dark 40 years ago because climbing was strictly forbidden then is now a pincushion. God knows whether I'd trust the protection though: look at the boulder opposite the crag, where they've been practising with their Black and Decker: loads of holes where something has been drilled & ain't there no more!

I think this is a disgrace. A difficult natural crag has been defaced to no apparent benefit (didn't see any chalk to suggest it's being climbed).

Approach notes

No known problems.


A bit of Southern sandstone that came north but left the quality behind. Not a great place to climb but pleasant enough for a picnic. It now seems to be a nature reserve and climbing is not encouraged, though using the bolt belays and not cleaning would probably help.
DerwentDiluted - 21/Apr/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Eye For a LineHVS 5a 3
2Brained CrackHS 4b 1
3Main GullyVD 9
4Crete AreteVS 4b 9
5SP 1880S 4a 3
6Main StreetVD 4
7VC 1950E1 6a *2
8ZenE1 5c *6
9NilE2 5b *1
10TantalumHS 4b 2
11Gravure AreteHVS 5b *1
12CorolleryE1 5b 1
13LingerfickerVS 4c 6

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DanT