Climbs 30
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces NW

Chris gets to the "car hang jam". © althesin

Crag features

Part quarried part natural soft sandstone. Soft rock and good landings mean soloing is usually the best means of climbing. Belay bolts have been placed at the top of all climbs and these should be used to protect the sandy tops and trees.

(Update March 2011 - just mountain bike'd past) Crag is now ruined (imho) by placement of dozens of bolts(?) - anyway, things to clip into. Above all, the lovely 4b crack with super nut placements - cream of the routes - that we used to climb in the dark 40 years ago because climbing was strictly forbidden then is now a pincushion. God knows whether I'd trust the protection though: look at the boulder opposite the crag, where they've been practising with their Black and Decker: loads of holes where something has been drilled & ain't there no more!

I think this is a disgrace. A difficult natural crag has been defaced to no apparent benefit (didn't see any chalk to suggest it's being climbed).

Approach notes

No known problems.

Guidebooks

A bit of Southern sandstone that came north but left the quality behind. Not a great place to climb but pleasant enough for a picnic. It now seems to be a nature reserve and climbing is not encouraged, though using the bolt belays and not cleaning would probably help.
DerwentDiluted - 21/Apr/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Eye For a Line HVS 5a 5
2 Brained Crack HS 4b 1
3 Main Gully VD 12
4 Crete Arete VS 4b 13
5 SP 1880 S 4a 3
6 Main Street VD 4
7 VC 1950 E1 6a * 2
8 Zen E1 5c * 6
9 Nil E2 5b * 1
10 Tantalum HS 4b 2
11 Gravure Arete HVS 5b * 1
12 Corollery E1 5b 1
13 Lingerficker VS 4c 8

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer DanT