Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Chris gets to the "car hang jam". © althesin
Part quarried part natural soft sandstone. Soft rock and good landings mean soloing is usually the best means of climbing. Belay bolts have been placed at the top of all climbs and these should be used to protect the sandy tops and trees.
(Update March 2011 - just mountain bike'd past) Crag is now ruined (imho) by placement of dozens of bolts(?) - anyway, things to clip into. Above all, the lovely 4b crack with super nut placements - cream of the routes - that we used to climb in the dark 40 years ago because climbing was strictly forbidden then is now a pincushion. God knows whether I'd trust the protection though: look at the boulder opposite the crag, where they've been practising with their Black and Decker: loads of holes where something has been drilled & ain't there no more!
I think this is a disgrace. A difficult natural crag has been defaced to no apparent benefit (didn't see any chalk to suggest it's being climbed).
No known problems.
|A bit of Southern sandstone that came north but left the quality behind. Not a great place to climb but pleasant enough for a picnic. It now seems to be a nature reserve and climbing is not encouraged, though using the bolt belays and not cleaning would probably help.|
DerwentDiluted - 21/Apr/09
|1||Eye For a Line||HVS 5a||4|
|2||Brained Crack||HS 4b||1|
|4||Crete Arete||VS 4b||11|
|5||SP 1880||S 4a||3|
|7||VC 1950||E1 6a *||2|
|8||Zen||E1 5c *||6|
|9||Nil||E2 5b *||1|
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