UKC

Climbs 200
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 109m a.s.l

First costumed ascent of Shirini!? © Simon Alden

Crag features

A number of buttress that follow the line of fortifications (actually it's the other way round!) across the northern part of the island. Routes tend to be around 10 - 20m in length on rock which is usually steeper and more juggy than the rest of the island.

Some boulder problems have been documented, but there's probably loads more that can be done.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Wied Faham
  Wied Faham East
  Villa Crag
4 Slanting Butress
-
VD * 2
5 Slanting Butress Direct
-
VS 5b ** 3
6 Kerrless * S 4a * 1
  Hangover Buttress
8 False Start VS 4b ** 8
9 Hangover Buttress HS 4b 7
10 Sprint Finish HS 4b 5
11 Ekburg * VD 1
  Twin Caves
13 Friendly Dogs HVS 5a * 6
14 Pedestal Wall HS 4b ** 6
15 Crickey S 4b 2
  Final Buttress
17 Final Crack HVD 4b 12
18 Final Wall HS 4b *** 14
19 Final Arete S 4b 9
20 Final buttress
-
HVD 2
  The Giant's Ear
22 Giant's Ear L start D 3
23 The Giant's Ear HVD 5
  The Lurcher Cave
25 Carambola E2 5c 1
26 The Lurcher VS 4c * 2
  Chute Buttress
28 Shallow Groove Route VS 4c ** 6
29 Chute Buttress Direct HVS 5a ** 2
30 Asinine Ascension HVS 5a ** 2
31 Chute VD * 1
  The Gape Cave
33 Black Sweat E1 5b *  
34 The Gape HVS 5a **  
  Practise Point
  Behind the Wall
37 Short and Steep
-
VD 2
38 Longer and Steeper
-
VS 5a * 2
39 Swift Undercut
-
E1 5c * 2
40 Birds Nest Crack
-
MVS 4c  
41 Scooped Corner
-
D 2
42 Mid-Line Girdle V0 *  
  Wied Faham West
  Quarry Slabs
  Dam Crag
46 Madelena Buttress M * 2
  Wimp's Wall
48 Wimps Wall
-
HS 4c ** 2
Climb name Grade
  Cikka
50 Look Out Wall VD 9
51 Look Out Chimney MS 4b 3
52 Landover
-
HVS 5a 6
53 Fall Out Wall D 3
54 Brown Deidre VD 3
55 Look C chimney MS 4b * 4
56 Tin Can Alley M 6
57 Unknown Soldier HVS 5a *** 13
58 Cikka E2 5c ** 11
59 Cicciolina E2 6a ** 5
60 Cikku
-
E5 6b/c ** 1
61 Custer's Last Stand E3 5c 3
62 Fig Leaf ArĂȘte S 4b 3
63 Fig Leaf Buttress S 4a 6
64 With Love from Room 109 at the Islander HVS 5a 1
65 Flake Wall
-
HS 4a *** 8
66 Maquis
-
VS 4c ** 1
67 Wafer Wall E1 5b *** 3
68 Wham Bam *
-
E2 5c * 2
  Top of the World
70 Silver Moon VS 4c  
  Stone Hut Area
72 Tessie's Crackers
-
S 4c 2
73 Tessie's Nickers
-
S 4b 2
74 Tessie's Knackered S 4b 5
75 The Wizard S 4a 4
76 The Little Sleep VD * 1
  Ta' Boys Buttress
78 Yo Girls VS 4c ** 2
79 Ta' Boys VS 5a * 2
80 Sa Sa S 4b 2
81 Hee Bee Gee Bee E1 5a 4
  Crazy Horse Cave
83 Shirini MVS 4c *** 10
84 Face-off
-
HVS 3
85 Longstick Goes Boom 6a * 7
86 Manic Maltese 6c ** 7
87 Whammer Jammer E1 5c *** 5
88 Mental Block E2 5c * 1
89 Conchita 6a+ 4
90 Bimbo Maniac
-
E1 5b 2
91 Bimbomaniac Direct E2 5b * 1
  Jaguar Wall
93 Blatant Theft
-
HS 4b 2
94 Black Panther 6b ** 5
95 Jaguar Smile E3 6a 7
96 Crazy Horse E2 6a ** 4
97 Sitting Bull
-
VS 4c ** 5
Climb name Grade
98 Cruel Jewel 6c 2
  Pace Forno
100 Blues HVS 5a 2
101 Victorious Lions E4 6a * 4
102 Bustina Outalova E4 6b * 3
103 Larkin' Around
-
6b+ * 1
  Gharghur Buttress
105 South Gharghur arete M 2
  Celebration Area
  Stairway to Heaven
108 Walls to Fall E1 5c *** 1
  Wied Anglu
  Anglu Cracks
111 Anthropoids Delight VS 5a *  
112 Idiots Wall VS 4c ** 2
  Hangover Area
  Crucifix Cave
115 One Step Sideways HVD 1
116 Honeycomb wall E1 5b *** 2
117 Life of William 6b * 23
118 Mr Boombastic
-
6b+ ** 14
119 The Boxer
-
7a *** 10
120 The Wanderer
-
5b 10
  The Wave
122 Talk Less Bolt More 7b+ ** 2
123 Sajjetta Fil-Bnazzi 7b+ *** 2
124 Xafra bla Mahfra 7b *** 14
125 Nighthawks at the Diner
-
7a *** 26
  Monolith Buttress
127 Alden Grinder
-
5c 11
128 Sunset Boulevard
-
5c ** 20
129 Lobruckster
-
5a 17
130 Rock Lobster
-
VS 4c *** 13
131 Hole and Corner D 13
  Spinosa Wall
133 Spinosa
-
S 4a * 2
134 Spinosa Rib HS 4a 2
135 Stalactite Wall MVS 4b ** 2
  Blind Cave
137 Birds Nest Wall VS 4c ***  
138 Polo HVS 4c 1
  Garbage Wall
  The Nose Ring
141 Hoodies Wall MVS 4b *  
  Glasshopper
143 Temptation
-
HVS 5b *  
144 About Time
-
HVS 5a 2
145 Meander 4c 7
146 Open your arse
-
6a+ * 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Simon Alden