Climbs 47
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SE

Edwards Edge (6b) at Castellets from the new Costa Blanca Rockfax © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Sandwiched between the rock climbing Meccas of the Sella valley and the majestic Puig Campana is a serrated ridge of marathon proportions - Castellets. The ridge is composed of a multitude of summits linked by dizzying, and at times difficult knife-edge arêtes. It presents only a few faces of unbroken rock though, hence the possibilities for climbing are relatively limited compared to the amount of rock on show. Described here is one small section on the cleanest walls which are towards the northeastern end of the ridge. The routes on this section are mostly fully bolted but there are a few trad routes up the cracks mostly with lower-offs.

Also covered in this chapter is the magnificent traverse of the first section of the ridge, the El Realet Ridge.

A full guide for this area can be found as a smart phone topo guide by Compass West please search 'Castellets Climbing Topo' in the App Store or Google Play. This guide covers all of the lower tiers and five of the upper towers. The north side of the ridge will be added later.

The climbing walls face southeast and get sun until late in the afternoon with little shade available. The proximity to Puig Campana means that the area can suffer from more of a mountain climate than the costal crags. This means more wind and rain when it is around. The ridge itself is exposed to the sun and wind, and shade is difficult to come by once on the ridge.

Approach notes

Castellets - From the centre of Finestrat, drive north on the road towards Puig Campana and through Font de Moli. Continue along this road for about 4km to a junction and turn right. Keep left at the next junction and continue for around 1km - good view of the crag ahead from here. As the road climbs towards the crag it turns to a dirt track. About 500m after this is a metal barrier across the track. Park here carefully leaving the track open for other vehicles. Walk past the barrier and go up the track for about 100m to a small path on the left. This leads back left to the crag. 

El Realet Ridge - From the centre of Finestrat take the CV758 towards Sella for 4.6km, to an unsigned road on the right. Turn up here and park on the right. From here, follow the minor road uphill for around 1km to a minor track on the right (chain across it), next to a pylon. Walk up the track for 100m to a shallow col where the ridge appears on the left. Strike uphill through light brush to the base of the ridge. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Spain : Costa Blanca - Rockfax App (2014)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Castellets
2 Zephyr 6b * 3
3 Thrasher 7b *  
4 Cosmic Policement 6a+ * 6
5 Cosmos 6a * 15
6 The Chimnet 5a * 14
7 Via Javi 6a * 20
8 Oposicion 5c * 31
9 El mussol 6a+ 2
10 Off the Wall 6c * 4
11 Independent 6b * 8
12 Flip 5c 2
13 Walk in the Wild 6a+ * 13
14 Enjoy 6c+ *  
15 La Cara 6b * 5
16 The Groove 6a 5
17 Blue Sky Rain 6b * 3
18 Power Flex 7b *  
19 Levilicas 4a 12
20 Vía Andrea 5c * 22
21 Bosigran 5c * 6
22 Vía de fisueros 4c 3
23 Deception 6a * 24
24 Obelisk 6c 2
25 Old Man of Sennen 6a+ * 1
26 Bosigran P2 5c 1
27 Four Fingers 5c  
28 Guino Fisura 6a  
29 El sueno 6b *  
30 Down the Line 6a * 8
31 Isis 6a+ * 4
32 Edward's Edge 6b ** 19
33 Genesis 5a * 7
34 Dawn Wall 6b 1
35 Smooth Operator 6a+  
36 Concrete Wave 6c * 3
37 Anorexic Void 7a * 1
  El Realet Ridge
39 El Realet Ridge 4c *** 40
  Ultra Mondo Sector
41 Apparition *
-
HVS * 1
42 Zopilote * VS 4c *** 1
43 Super Human Effort * 6a *** 1
  Other Routes (Location uncertain)
45 Flint Stone * 5c 2
46 Future Martyr of Supersonic Waves *
-
6b 1
47 It Suddenly Zawned On Me *
-
6c+ 1
48 Cosmic Fusion * E2 5c * 1
49 Open Season *
-
HVS 5b 1
50 Spirit of Akropolis * E2 5b *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Tom Phillips