Altitude 400m a.s.l
Edwards Edge (6b) at Castellets from the new Costa Blanca Rockfax © Mark Glaister
Sandwiched between the rock climbing Meccas of the Sella valley and the majestic Puig Campana is a serrated ridge of marathon proportions - Castellets. The ridge is composed of a multitude of summits linked by dizzying, and at times difficult knife-edge arêtes. It presents only a few faces of unbroken rock though, hence the possibilities for climbing are relatively limited compared to the amount of rock on show. Described here is one small section on the cleanest walls which are towards the northeastern end of the ridge. The routes on this section are mostly fully bolted but there are a few trad routes up the cracks mostly with lower-offs.
Also covered in this chapter is the magnificent traverse of the first section of the ridge, the El Realet Ridge.
A full guide for this area can be found as a smart phone topo guide by Compass West please search 'Castellets Climbing Topo' in the App Store or Google Play. This guide covers all of the lower tiers and five of the upper towers. The north side of the ridge will be added later.
The climbing walls face southeast and get sun until late in the afternoon with little shade available. The proximity to Puig Campana means that the area can suffer from more of a mountain climate than the costal crags. This means more wind and rain when it is around. The ridge itself is exposed to the sun and wind, and shade is difficult to come by once on the ridge.
Castellets - From the centre of Finestrat, drive north on the road towards Puig Campana and through Font de Moli. Continue along this road for about 4km to a junction and turn right. Keep left at the next junction and continue for around 1km - good view of the crag ahead from here. As the road climbs towards the crag it turns to a dirt track. About 500m after this is a metal barrier across the track. Park here carefully leaving the track open for other vehicles. Walk past the barrier and go up the track for about 100m to a small path on the left. This leads back left to the crag.
El Realet Ridge - From the centre of Finestrat take the CV758 towards Sella for 4.6km, to an unsigned road on the right. Turn up here and park on the right. From here, follow the minor road uphill for around 1km to a minor track on the right (chain across it), next to a pylon. Walk up the track for 100m to a shallow col where the ridge appears on the left. Strike uphill through light brush to the base of the ridge.
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|4||Cosmic Policement||6a+ *||7|
|6||The Chimnet||5a *||14|
|7||Via Javi||6a *||21|
|10||Off the Wall||6c *||5|
|13||Walk in the Wild||6a+ *||14|
|15||La Cara||6b *||7|
|17||Blue Sky Rain||6b *||4|
|18||Power Flex||7b *|
|20||Vía Andrea||5c *||23|
|22||Vía de fisueros||4c||3|
|25||Old Man of Sennen||6a+ *||1|
|29||El sueno||6b *|
|30||Down the Line||6a *||8|
|32||Edward's Edge||6b **||20|
|36||Concrete Wave||6c *||3|
|37||Anorexic Void||7a *||1|
|38||Tricky Crack *||HVS 5a||1|
|39||Buccaneer *||6b ***||1|
|40||Moonlit Sky *||HVS 5a||1|
|41||Moonbeam *||HVS 5a||1|
|El Realet Ridge|
|43||El Realet Ridge||4c ***||59|
|Ultra Mondo Sector|
|46||Zopilote *||VS 4c ***||1|
|47||Super Human Effort *||6a ***||1|
|Other Routes (Location uncertain)|
|49||Flint Stone *||5c||2|
|50||Future Martyr of Supersonic Waves *||
|51||It Suddenly Zawned On Me *||
|52||Cosmic Fusion *||E2 5c *||1|
|53||Open Season *||
|54||Spirit of Akropolis *||E2 5b ***||1|
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