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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 108
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 306m a.s.l
Faces all

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Catching the last of the light on the Andle Stone after a quality morning at the CWIF and Doll Tor © Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH

Crag features

Stanton Moor is a beautiful place popular with walkers and those in search of stone circles. For boulderers, there are a few small spots that have a limited amount on offer however the place is saved from ignominy by having a few hard and extremely high quality destination problems. Brad's Wall, Brutal Arête, Stanton Deliver and the Andle Stone Wall are all brilliant and are as good as any of their grade in the Peak - shame they are all V8 or above. For those looking for mild-grade problems, there is still a reasonable set to go at but you will need to dot about across the moor and it isn't great for circuits.

Approach notes

The various areas are usually approached from the minor road that connects Stanton-in-the-Peak with Birchover both of which can be reached from the B5056. The normal parking is in a lay-by on the road just north of Birchover although there are other parking spots to the south and by the big quarry. 

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Has anyone done the obvious traverse along the break yet ?
Simon Lee - 13/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Andle Stone
2 Spook f7A ** 8
3 No Bull f6C ** 3
4 Witches' Sabbath f6B * 39
5 Andle Stone Wall f7B *** 51
6 Ron's Problem f7C * 20
7 Nettle Tea f4+ * 58
8 Crack and Wall f5 2
9 T. Masters
-
V1  
10 Mug f6B 6
11 Blockbuster f7A  
  The Cork Stone
13 Tony's Problem f7C * 2
14 Dark Rites f6A * 17
15 Bonsallitis f7A * 9
16 The Mammoth Book of UFOs f7B ** 24
17 Unidentified Flying People f7C 2
18 Corker f5 * 29
  Hidden Quarry
20 Harvester f6A 2
21 Leafcutter f6B+ 2
22 Citronella f6A 3
  My Left Foot
24 Overlook Arête f7A+ * 8
25 My Left Foot f6A ** 82
26 My Left Foot Sit-start V5 ** 56
  Brad's Rib Block
28 Two Thirty f6B 13
29 Muhammad Ali f6B 17
30 Mike Tyson f7B+ * 2
31 Brad's Rib f7A+ ** 35
32 Tom Thumb f7B+ * 1
33 Pulling Teeth f6B 55
  Demon Wall
35 A Rural Myth f5 3
36 A Rural Object f6C 4
37 Demon Wall f7B * 1
  Rhododendron
39 Rhododendron f6B * 49
40 Rhododendron Eliminate f6C 1
41 Brambles and Bracken V3 3
Climb name Grade
  Easy Highballing
43 Undone Rib f5 16
44 Crack f4+ 15
45 Viewpoint Slap f6B 11
46 Nothing to See Here f6B+ 4
47 Make it Stick f6C * 16
48 Baby People f5+ 1
  Brad's Wall
50 Chick Flick f5 2
51 Chick Factor f6A+ * 39
52 Chick Lit f6A 1
53 Drizzle f5+ ** 47
54 Brad's Wall f7C *** 14
55 Rex Regis of Rusticis Res f7A+ * 1
  Chicken Slab
57 Ginger Ninja f6A  
58 Chicken Wing f5 2
59 Chicken Boy f6A 2
60 Chicken Run f6A 1
61 Chicken Ninja f6A+ ** 19
62 Chicken Ginger f7A * 10
63 Poor Man's Olive f6B 1
  Old Quarry
65 Pugilist HVS 5a * 1
  Brutal Arete Area
67 Bum Deal f6C+  
68 Brutal Arête f7B *** 42
69 Stanton Deliver f8A+ ***  
70 Stanton Warriors f7B+ **  
71 The Stanton Shuffle f7C+ *  
72 Mini Prow f6B  
73 Sugared Almond V6  
74 Snorlax f7B  
75 Thick Skinned f6A 1
76 Wonder Bra f6C 5
77 Gaz's Slab f6C 2
78 Gaz's Traverse f6B+ 2
79 Big Brother f7A+ ** 6
80 The Cresta Run f7B 1
81 The Toboggan Run f6A * 5
82 Little Brother f6B * 27
Climb name Grade
  Twin Blocks
84 Small Wall f7A 1
85 Toggle f5+ 2
86 Small Wall Lip f5 2
87 Slim Sim Slab f5+ 3
88 Slim Sim f5 2
89 Slim Sim Right-hand f6B+ 2
  Secret Boulders
91 Secret Places f7A ** 21
92 Safe House f6A 7
93 Brad's Arête 'The Presence of Absence' f6C+ *** 134
94 Sworn to Secrecy f5+ * 32
95 Secret Side-wall f5+ 6
96 Classified f5 * 6
97 To Have It All f6C+ * 2
98 The 1980s Were The Days f7A * 2
  The Cat Stone
100 The Plaque f6B+ * 74
101 The Plaque (No Crack) f7A ** 45
102 The Green Man f7C * 4
103 MW CHS f6B 2
104 Aces High f6C+ * 4
  Backy Scratchy
106 Humpty & Dumpty HVS 5b * 1
107 Backy Scratchy E1 5b 1
  Sunrise Slabs
109 Rollercoaster f6A+ 2
110 Grande Ramp f5+ 3
111 Sunrise f6B 1
  Stanton Moor Quarries
113 Catch 22
-
HVS 5c  
114 The Long Crack
-
HVS 5a  
115 The Shield
-
E2 5b 1
116 Mans Country
-
E1 5b 2
117 Bullitt
-
HVS 5b  
118 The Traverse
-
HVS 5a  
119 Little Cuthbert
-
VS 4c  
120 Shytorque Crack
-
HVS 5a  
121 Greymalkin
-
E2 5c  
122 Warlock
-
E1 5b 1
123 Vampire
-
E2 5c  
124 A Grand Affair
-
E4 6a 1
125 Broken Hearts
-
E5 6b  
126 Faithless
-
E4 6a  

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