Climbs 135
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 292m a.s.l
Faces E

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Arete at Turning Stone © Col Allott

Crag features

Hidden, sometimes neglected, but increasingly popular, Turningstone Edge has always kept its delights camouflaged under a green cloak. The slope below the cliff is smothered in rhododendrons and this invasive species has taken quite a hold on the cliff too. Concerted efforts by keen locals (last major clearence in summer 2016 by members of a local climbing club) have cleared sections of the cliff face and its base, making the place worth a visit. A pair of secateurs should be an addition to your normal rack to help keep the shrubs in check.

There has been some rockfall in autumn/winter 2016 between Happy Landings and Amber Buttress possibly out of the gully area which Tree Dimentional and Cave route climb, take care if you attempt to climb these routes!

Approach notes

The parking and access arrangments have changed, and information in guidebooks is now incorrect. Please do NOT park outside Old Engine House Farm on Holestone Gate Road. Instead park as for Cocking Tor.

Please see Access Advice / BMC Regional Access Database for more detailed information.

Access Advice

Since the BMC Froggatt to Black Rocks Guide Book was published in 2010, ownership of the woodland above Overton which includes Turning Stone Edge has changed. The current owners live at Old Engine Farm on Holeston Gate Road, directly opposite the public footpath indicated as the access route for Turning Stone in the guidebook. There is no longer any permitted access from this footpath to Turning Stone where it meets the private woodland. Alternative access has been granted however, following careful negotiation with the landowner via Coffin Lane and Cocking Tor but it is crucial that this approach route is used to ensure continued access – see ‘approach and parking’ section below.

Access is granted on the condition that it remains low key and doesn't attract attention. The permision does not include permision to clean/remove vegetation, camp, or light fires/bbqs. Any of these or other activities beyond simply climbing will result in access being lost permenantly so please respect the landowners wishes.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
Big thanks to the good people who have been cutting the Roddies back. I like this crag, a hidden gem.
andyclimber - 20/Jul/17
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  *Cocking Tor*
  Cock End
3 Terry Got Fingered f6A 3
4 Cock Jockey f5 2
5 Cock End f6C * 1
6 Cock End Eliminate V6  
7 Split Tip f6A 8
  Cocking Tor
9 Circumcision E1 5b * 4
10 Paul's Small Wall E5 6c * 2
11 Both Sides Now E4 6a ** 3
12 Jelly Tot Left f6A+ * 17
13 Jelly Tot f6A+ ** 27
14 Jellyache E3 5c ** 15
15 Jelly Start f5 * 19
16 Cyclops' Eye E2 5c * 48
17 Short Corner
-
HVD 4a 8
18 Stridesque f6B 3
  The Prow
20 Crack 'n' Slope f5 * 15
21 Sun Worship f5+ * 11
22 Pagen Cross f6B *** 39
23 Wicker Man f7A * 26
  Monomantel
25 Rockbilly Rehab f6B+ * 13
26 Monomantel f7A * 14
27 No Monomantle f7A+ 1
28 Gravy Boatsmen f6B * 13
29 Gravy Boatsman Direct V5 3
30 The Radjy Man f6C+ 3
  Salad Fingers
32 Barbara Logan-Price V3 3
33 Margery Stewart Baxter V3+ 4
34 Soot and Poo V4 1
35 Rusty Spoons V6 3
36 Salad Fingers f7B * 4
37 Hubert Cumberdale f6A+ * 2
38 Jeremy Fisher f6B+ 3
39 Sunshine Dust f6A+ 2
40 Mr Branches f3+ 2
  *Turningstone Edge*
  Happy Landings to Amber Buttress
43 Ballnut Whip Arête
-
V0 *  
44 Ballnut Whip E3 6c * 1
45 Bushballhog E4 6b * 1
46 Rhododendron Grotto VD 2
47 Cleft Buttress Left S 4a 4
48 A Bit on the Side of a Bit on the Side E1 5b  
49 A Bit on the Side E2 5c 6
Climb name Grade
50 The Cleft VD 2
51 Mistress in Suspenders E3 6a 1
52 Master of Suspense E4 6b * 2
53 Rough Diamond E5 6c * 3
54 Cleft Buttress Right HVD 4a 2
55 Punditry V4 *  
56 Pedantry V2 *  
57 Salle Goose f7C+ *** 6
58 Second Chance E3 6a * 1
59 Calling the Grit E4 6b * 1
60 Happy Landings E2 5b ** 32
61 National Power E4 6a ** 5
62 Who gives a Font?! E6 6b ** 3
63 Finger Bang f7A+ ** 1
64 Jay Walker VS 4c * 17
65 Morning Wood E3 6a *  
66 Depressed Arête E1 5b * 37
67 Happy Crack HS 4b 7
68 Cave Chimney Direct VS 4c * 5
69 Cave Route S 4a * 12
70 Tree Dimensional E1 5c * 4
71 A Clash of Kings E6 6b * 2
72 Twilight Slab HVS 5a * 68
73 Rody Groove VD 19
74 Amber Gascoigne E2 6a 3
75 Amber Buttress HVS 5a ** 114
76 Amber Gambler VS 5a * 3
77 Amber Arête VS 4c ** 188
78 Amberration HVS 5c * 7
  Sail Buttress
80 Plumb Bob HS 4c 25
81 Plumb-Line S 4a 44
82 Burn before Listening HVS 5b 7
83 The Diagonal Line S 4b * 11
84 Plumb Groove HVD 4a 29
85 Damson HS 4c * 21
86 Stump Root VS 4c 14
87 Cave Traverse VS 5a 2
88 Bent Line VS 5a 5
89 Umbongo E1 5c * 18
90 River of Life f7C+ ** 14
91 Puddle of Disappointment V8 4
92 Right Between the Eyes E5 6b * 2
93 Vee Variant VS 4c ** 34
94 Vee Chimney S 4a ** 17
95 Hello Sailor E2 5c 15
96 Car Boot Sail VS 4b * 49
97 Sail Arête S 4b ** 195
98 Sail by Date E3 6a 11
Climb name Grade
99 Sail Wall S 4b 21
100 Sail Diagonal VD 2
101 Pedestal Route HS 4a 3
102 Short Corner HVD 4a 5
  Sugar Loaf Buttress
104 Adventure with Loopy Loo HS 4b 8
105 Tripping on Sunshine E2 5c * 7
106 Rainy Day Blues E3 5c ** 35
107 Stop the Gutless Bolters E5 6a 3
108 Baker's Groove E1 5b ** 49
109 Fall from Grace E2 5c * 13
110 Buns Out of the Oven HS 4b 8
111 The Oven
-
S 4a 3
112 Ledge Route
-
E1 5b 1
113 Gibbon Swing f7A ** 21
114 Waiting for Tony E1 5b * 29
115 Overton Arête HVS 5b ** 161
116 Underton Arête f6C+ ** 44
117 Hugo de Vries E1 5b ** 141
118 Overton Wall VS 4c * 139
119 Stop the Buttless Gloaters E1 5b * 4
120 Price Chopper E1 5a * 3
121 Dove Cracks VD 5
122 The Wasp Factory HS 4b * 9
123 Little Peapod S 4a 2
124 Fairy Steps HVD 4
125 False Start VS 4c 1
126 Boggle Buttress HS 4b 8
127 Mundercur HVS 5c 3
128 Goblin Groove HVD 4a  
129 Orc HVD 3
130 Spectre V1 3
131 Inspectre f5 2
132 Sprite V2  
133 Lucky Luke V5 * 1
134 Rantanplan f6A 2
  The Turning Stone
136 Rody Pagonda
-
E1 5b  
137 Lizzy Dripping
-
HVS 5a  
138 Little Hemlock f6A 1
  Secret Buttress
140 Jumpin' on an Aphid f6A+ 4
141 The Cherub's Bit f7A * 6
142 Velveteen Whisper f6B 2
143 Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledge f7A * 1
144 Riding the Stang f7A+ 1
145 The Seeker f7C *  
146 Secret Dyno f7B+ ** 1
147 Ha Hoo f6B 2

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