Climbs 100
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 290m a.s.l
Faces E

Arete at Turning Stone © Col Allott

Crag features

Hidden, sometimes neglected, but increasingly popular, Turningstone Edge has always kept its delights camouflaged under a green cloak. The slope below the cliff is smothered in rhododendrons and this invasive species has taken quite a hold on the cliff too. Concerted efforts by keen locals (last major clearence in summer 2016 by members of a local climbing club) have cleared sections of the cliff face and its base, making the place worth a visit. A pair of secateurs should be an addition to your normal rack to help keep the shrubs in check.

Approach notes

There is parking opposite a farm where a track (footpath sign) heads into the trees. Follow this to a beech copse with a stone wall around it. Walk straight through this (the footpath jigs away right) and follow a narrow trod across the field and straight into the woods. A hundred metres or so into here is a clearing where the local kids build dens and campfires; continue in the same direction to arrive at the top of the cliff where a scramble down a narrow gulley reaches its base, towards the centre.

Rockfax App

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Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
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Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010)
Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996)

Out of print:
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Master of Suspense 
2Ballnut Whip Arête
V0 * 
3Ballnut WhipE3 6c *1
4BushballhogE4 6b *1
5Rhododendron GrottoVD 2
6Cleft Buttress LeftS 4a 4
7A Bit on the Side of A Bit on the SideE1 5b  
8A Bit on the SideE2 5c 6
9The CleftVD 2
10Mistress in SuspendersE3 6a 1
11Master of SuspenseE4 6b *2
12Rough DiamondE5 6c *3
13Cleft Buttress RightHVD 4a 2
 Happy Landings to Amber Buttress 
15PunditryV4 * 
16PedantryV2 * 
17Salle Goosef7C+ ***14
18Second ChanceE3 6a *1
19Calling the GritE4 6b *1
20Happy LandingsE2 5b **25
21National PowerE4 6a **5
22Who gives a Font?!E6 6b **1
23Finger Bangf7A+ **1
24Jay WalkerVS 4c *15
25Morning WoodE3 6a * 
26Depressed ArêteE1 5b *22
27Happy CrackHS 4b 4
28Cave Chimney DirectVS 4c *3
29Cave RouteS 4a *8
30Tree DimensionalE1 5c *2
31A Clash of KingsE6 6b *2
32Twilight SlabHVS 5a *48
33Rody GrooveVD 9
34Amber GascoigneE2 6a 2
35Amber ButtressHVS 5a **86
36Amber ArêteVS 4c **152
37AmberrationHVS 5c *3
 Sail Buttress 
39Plumb BobHS 4c 19
40Plumb-LineS 4a 38
41Burn before ListeningHVS 5b 5
42The Diagonal LineS 4b *7
43Plumb GrooveHVD 4a 22
44DamsonHS 4c *19
45Stump RootVS 4c 12
46Cave TraverseVS 5a 1
47Bent LineVS 5a 3
48UmbongoE1 5c *15
49River of Lifef7C+ **10
50Puddle of DisappointmentV8 2
51Right Between the EyesE5 6b *2
52Vee VariantVS 4c **22
53Vee ChimneyS 4a **9
54Hello SailorE2 5c 11
55Car Boot SailVS 4b *31
56Sail ArêteS 4b **162
57Sail By DateE3 6a 10
58Sail WallS 4b 15
59Sail DiagonalVD 1
60Pedestal RouteHS 4a 2
61Short CornerHVD 4a 4
 Sugar Loaf Buttress 
63Adventure with Loopy LooHS 4b 6
64Tripping on SunshineE2 5c *4
65Rainy Day BluesE3 5c **26
66Stop the Gutless BoltersE5 6a 1
67Baker's GrooveE1 5b **24
68Fall from GraceE2 5c *13
69Buns out of the OvenHS 4b 5
70The Oven
S 4a 1
71Ledge Route
E1 5b  
72Gibbon Swingf7A **21
73Waiting for TonyE1 5b *22
74Overton ArêteHVS 5b **120
75Underton Arêtef6C+ **35
76Hugo de VriesE1 5b **115
77Overton WallVS 4c *100
78Stop the Buttless GloatersE1 5b *2
79Price ChopperE1 5a *2
80Dove CracksVD 2
81The Wasp FactoryHS 4b *8
82Little PeapodS 4a 1
83Fairy StepsHVD 3
84False StartVS 4c 1
85Boggle ButtressHS 4b 7
86MundercurHVS 5c 3
87Goblin GrooveHVD 4a  
88OrcHVD 3
89SpectreV1 3
90Inspectref5 2
92Lucky LukeV5 *1
93Rantanplanf6A 2
 The Turning Stone 
95Rody Pagonda
E1 5b  
96Lizzy Dripping
HVS 5a  
97Little Hemlockf6A 1
 Secret Buttress 
99Jumpin' on an Aphidf6A+ 2
100The Cherub's Bitf7A *1
101Velveteen Whisperf6B 1
102Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledgef7A *1
103Riding the Stangf7A+ 1
104The Seekerf7C * 
105Secret Dynof7B+ **1
106Ha Hoof6B 2

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