UKC

Climbs 100
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 290m a.s.l
Faces E

Arete at Turning Stone © Col Allott

Crag features

Hidden, sometimes neglected, but increasingly popular, Turningstone Edge has always kept its delights camouflaged under a green cloak. The slope below the cliff is smothered in rhododendrons and this invasive species has taken quite a hold on the cliff too. Concerted efforts by keen locals (last major clearence in summer 2016 by members of a local climbing club) have cleared sections of the cliff face and its base, making the place worth a visit. A pair of secateurs should be an addition to your normal rack to help keep the shrubs in check.

Approach notes

November 2017

Private property signs have been erected along the path that forms the desire line to the crag, but is not in fact the right of way. The right of way is described below and should be used if accessing the crag despite being less direct. The BMC is under the impression that the Forestry Commision own or manage the land below the crag and are happy for climbers to access it, but a private landowner owns the land used to approach the crag so please keep to rights of way whilst crossing the fields on the approach. Do NOT walk through the copse.

Limited parking is available on Holestone Gate Road, opposite Old Engine Farm, but it is crucial that any cars are well parked (avoiding blocking the road or gates) so not to cause problems for local farmers and residents. 

A public footpath leads from the parking, across the field and around the right side of the copse (not through the middle) and from here diagonally to the far right corner of the field.

For more updates see the BMC RAD.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010)
Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996)

Out of print:
Big thanks to the good people who have been cutting the Roddies back. I like this crag, a hidden gem.
andyclimber - 20/Jul/17
Well done to the people taking the effort to clear the rhodedendrons. A Gem of a crag. Make sure to bring a saw/axe if you visit and help with the 'gardening'.
Albie - 08/May/13
Great little crag this
Ander - 14/Jul/12
An East-facing gritstone edge! Really nice place and the Rhodedendrons are still at bay
Cake - 25/Feb/12
It is a lovely spot but take a bin bag with you 'cos idiots party in the woods on the way in and leave rubbish...
bz - 01/Sep/11
A little gritty and muddy on most climbs but possibly the best grit I have ever climbed on!! Also did/dogged a girdle from Plum Groove along the two middle breaks finishing up Umbongo not a bad outing if done clean on lead.
joese7en - 12/Sep/10
I'd written off this place after one visit when it was at its worst. Someone has put a huge amount of effort into clearing it and its now a fine little spot. Needs and deserves a steady flow of visitors to keep clean.
DerwentDiluted - 03/Sep/10
It appears that man had conquered the jungle - the rock here is fabulous quality its just getting there that is a fight.
petellis - 18/Aug/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Master of Suspense
2 Ballnut Whip Arête
-
V0 *  
3 Ballnut Whip E3 6c * 1
4 Bushballhog E4 6b * 1
5 Rhododendron Grotto VD 2
6 Cleft Buttress Left S 4a 4
7 A Bit on the Side of A Bit on the Side E1 5b  
8 A Bit on the Side E2 5c 6
9 The Cleft VD 2
10 Mistress in Suspenders E3 6a 1
11 Master of Suspense E4 6b * 2
12 Rough Diamond E5 6c * 3
13 Cleft Buttress Right HVD 4a 2
  Happy Landings to Amber Buttress
15 Punditry V4 *  
16 Pedantry V2 *  
17 Salle Goose f7C+ *** 6
18 Second Chance E3 6a * 1
19 Calling the Grit E4 6b * 1
20 Happy Landings E2 5b ** 26
21 National Power E4 6a ** 5
22 Who gives a Font?! E6 6b ** 2
23 Finger Bang f7A+ ** 1
24 Jay Walker VS 4c * 15
25 Morning Wood E3 6a *  
26 Depressed Arête E1 5b * 32
27 Happy Crack HS 4b 5
28 Cave Chimney Direct VS 4c * 3
29 Cave Route S 4a * 10
30 Tree Dimensional E1 5c * 2
31 A Clash of Kings E6 6b * 2
32 Twilight Slab HVS 5a * 58
33 Rody Groove VD 14
34 Amber Gascoigne E2 6a 2
35 Amber Buttress HVS 5a ** 93
36 Amber Arête VS 4c ** 164
Climb name Grade
37 Amberration HVS 5c * 3
  Sail Buttress
39 Plumb Bob HS 4c 22
40 Plumb-Line S 4a 40
41 Burn before Listening HVS 5b 5
42 The Diagonal Line S 4b * 7
43 Plumb Groove HVD 4a 25
44 Damson HS 4c * 18
45 Stump Root VS 4c 12
46 Cave Traverse VS 5a 1
47 Bent Line VS 5a 4
48 Umbongo E1 5c * 16
49 River of Life f7C+ ** 11
50 Puddle of Disappointment V8 2
51 Right Between the Eyes E5 6b * 2
52 Vee Variant VS 4c ** 28
53 Vee Chimney S 4a ** 13
54 Hello Sailor E2 5c 12
55 Car Boot Sail VS 4b * 37
56 Sail Arête S 4b ** 172
57 Sail By Date E3 6a 10
58 Sail Wall S 4b 18
59 Sail Diagonal VD 1
60 Pedestal Route HS 4a 2
61 Short Corner HVD 4a 4
  Sugar Loaf Buttress
63 Adventure with Loopy Loo HS 4b 6
64 Tripping on Sunshine E2 5c * 4
65 Rainy Day Blues E3 5c ** 29
66 Stop the Gutless Bolters E5 6a 1
67 Baker's Groove E1 5b ** 33
68 Fall from Grace E2 5c * 13
69 Buns out of the Oven HS 4b 7
70 The Oven
-
S 4a 2
71 Ledge Route
-
E1 5b  
72 Gibbon Swing f7A ** 18
Climb name Grade
73 Waiting for Tony E1 5b * 22
74 Overton Arête HVS 5b ** 130
75 Underton Arête f6C+ ** 36
76 Hugo de Vries E1 5b ** 120
77 Overton Wall VS 4c * 116
78 Stop the Buttless Gloaters E1 5b * 2
79 Price Chopper E1 5a * 2
80 Dove Cracks VD 2
81 The Wasp Factory HS 4b * 8
82 Little Peapod S 4a 1
83 Fairy Steps HVD 3
84 False Start VS 4c 1
85 Boggle Buttress HS 4b 7
86 Mundercur HVS 5c 3
87 Goblin Groove HVD 4a  
88 Orc HVD 3
89 Spectre V1 3
90 Inspectre f5 2
91 Sprite V2  
92 Lucky Luke V5 * 1
93 Rantanplan f6A 2
  The Turning Stone
95 Rody Pagonda
-
E1 5b  
96 Lizzy Dripping
-
HVS 5a  
97 Little Hemlock f6A 1
  Secret Buttress
99 Jumpin' on an Aphid f6A+ 3
100 The Cherub's Bit f7A * 2
101 Velveteen Whisper f6B 2
102 Nice Pinch, Shame About the Ledge f7A * 1
103 Riding the Stang f7A+ 1
104 The Seeker f7C *  
105 Secret Dyno f7B+ ** 1
106 Ha Hoo f6B 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Graeme Hammond