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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 207
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 413m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Lucy Creamer on The File (VS 4c), Higgar Tor, Peak District © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Higgar Tor is not an extensive venue but it manages to have a major impact courtesy of the Leaning Block. Steep and powerful climbing is the order of the day here and, in general, the routes only succumb to a forceful approach; hesitation will be punished with pumped forearms and a 'gritstone kiss'. The striking central line of The Rasp is the showpiece of the crag, a stunning outing that is typical of many of the routes - an overhanging crack with the odd good jam and plenty of jugs. Typically, protection is plentiful but placing it is tiring and the finishes may leave you breathless and battered. There is a theory that the routes feel under-graded because the block is slowly tipping.  

The Leaning Block is the main event but the shorter walls to either side also have worthwhile offerings but don't expect any soft touches. There is plenty of bouldering to be found, some of which has been covered here, although it is quite highball and the landings are not very friendly. The abrasive-tool-themed names of the routes are an indication of the nature of the rock here.

Approach notes

Higgar Tor is on the west side of Burbage Valley, overlooking the minor road running down to Hathersage. There is roadside parking on the right-hand side as it starts to descend towards the valley. From the parking walk down the road for about 100m to a stile on the left. Cross the stile and contour the hillside to the right. The cliff appears as you round the ridge, less than 5 mins from the car.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  First Buttress
2 Wall Left of Blizzard Nose
-
V0- 8
3 Blizzard Nose
-
V3 2
4 Cheese Block Pinch V2 4
5 Wall Games
-
V0 6
6 Flakes
-
V0+ 6
7 Tiny Corner and Wall V0 5
8 Wall from Crack V0 9
  Hathersage Climb Buttress
10 Small Beginnings S 4a 25
11 Hathersage Climb VS 5a * 36
12 All of a Quiver HVS 5a * 16
13 Tossing a Wobbler HVS 5a * 38
  The Riffler
15 The Warding S 4b 88
16 The Warding Variant S 4b 9
17 Aceldama E4 6a 5
18 The Mighty Atom E2 5c ** 85
19 Brillo Flake V3 6
20 Brillo E1 5c 149
21 The Riffler HVS 5a * 317
22 The Cotter HVS 5b * 235
23 The Rat's Tail VS 5a * 399
24 The Reamer VS 4c * 237
25 Leaning Block Gully VD 73
26 Leaning Block Gully Inside Route M 56
  The Leaning Block
28 The Sander E4 6a * 8
29 Block and Tackle E6 6b ** 22
30 Block and Tackle Direct f7B+ ** 8
31 You've got my Cnòthan E6 6b ** 1
32 Leaning Block Traverse f7B+ * 1
33 Surform E1 5b ** 239
34 Bastard Cut/Prince's Dustbin
-
E4 6b * 4
35 Arnold Schwarznegger Stole My Body
-
E4 6b * 7
36 The Rasp E2 5b *** 625
37 Block Party E3 6a 2
38 The Rasp Direct E3 6a *** 59
39 The Rasp Direct Start
-
f6A 10
40 Witness The Gritness f7A ** 85
41 Flute of Hope E4 6a *** 32
42 Bat Out of Hell E5 6a *** 105
43 Linkline E5 6c *** 8
44 Pulsar
-
E5 6c 3
45 Pulsar Direct E6 6b *** 18
46 Rowley Birkin QC E6 6c ** 6
47 The File VS 4c *** 1371
48 The Raven E2 6b 7
49 Paddock VD * 359
50 Paddock Face HVS 5b * 2
51 Greymalkin S 4a * 342
52 Hecate VD 147
53 Rock Around the Block E5 6a * 5
54 Shame on a Higgar f7A 3
  The Right Walls
56 Wotan's Corner D 28
57 Wotan's Crack S 4b 238
58 Whilst You're Waiting S 4b 2
59 Chance Encounter VS 5a 25
60 Rough Justice E3 6c * 1
61 Sickle Overhang VS 4c 15
62 Jupiter's Slab E1 6a 31
63 Jupiter's Arête VS 4c 58
64 Jupiter's Crack HS 4c 67
65 Totally Facile f6B+ 1
66 Simples HS 4b 1
67 Easy Peasy E1 6a 20
68 Doddle S 4a 45
69 Lemon Squeezy HVS 5b 23
70 Walkover S 4a 42
71 Piece of Cake HVD 4a 59
72 Achilles Heel E2 5b 8
73 Laze E2 5c 11
74 Spirito di Onki E3 6a 2
75 Daley Bulletin HVS 5a 3
76 Canyon Climb HVD 4a 40
77 Zeus’s Crack HS 4b 20
Climb name Grade
78 Root Decay E4 6b 2
79 Stretcher Case E2 5c * 4
80 Splint HVS 5a * 94
81 Loki's Way HS 4b * 209
82 Fricka's Crack VS 4c * 163
83 Nal’s Face
-
VS 4c 1
84 Jade Tiger HVS 5b 18
85 Freya's Climb VD * 114
86 Freya's Wall HVD 4a 30
87 Freya's Corner D 23
  Harvester Block
89 Pippin HVS 5b 7
90 The Harvester f6B * 7
91 Combine Harvester f6C * 42
92 Pippin Dyno f7A ** 13
93 Harvester Dyno f6B+ ** 11
94 Harvest Arête f5+ * 42
95 Harvester Arête Right-hand
-
V0+ 21
96 Harvest Groove f4 * 39
97 Upper Traverse
-
V4 7
  Higgar Tor South
  Elephants Arse
100 Lapwing
-
f7A+ 6
101 Bent Inside VD 5
102 Tusk
-
f6B 3
103 Free Palestine
-
f6C 1
104 Curlew
-
f6C 2
105 Bentley HS 4b 3
106 The Bender M 4
107 Mustela
-
f6C  
108 Rhino's Bumcheek
-
f6C  
109 Hippo's Ballbag
-
f7A  
110 Elephant’s Arse Direct Finish
-
f6B+  
111 Elephant's Arse f6B ** 7
112 Less Bent S 4a 4
113 Round the Bend S 4a 3
  Broken Wall
115 Broken Wall f4 * 38
116 Your Round
-
E1 5b * 6
117 My Round
-
E1 5a * 4
  Little Slab
119 Snow Blow
-
V0 8
120 Little Slab/Snow Bong f4 * 56
121 Snow Bong Right V0 5
122 Snow Bong Sidewall V0 4
123 Pillar Eliminate f6A+ 40
124 Slanting Crack f5+ 23
125 Straight Crack f5 26
  Like Pommel
127 Like Pommel f6B ** 43
128 Not like Pommel f5+ ** 68
129 Central Wall f4+ * 77
130 The Prow f5+ 41
  Pocket Wall
132 Broken Arête f3+ * 30
133 Pocket Wall f4+ 33
  The Big Slab
135 Big Slab Left f5 ** 34
136 The Big Slab f4+ *** 176
137 Big Slab Right f4+ ** 78
138 Higgar's Boson
-
f6A+ 2
139 Small Slab f4+ * 104
140 Small Slab Arête f3+ * 90
141 Left Parquet Arête f6B 18
142 Parquet Wall f6A+ 57
143 Definitive 5.13 * f6B  
  High Mantel
145 High Mantel f5+ 14
  Rippled Slab
147 Rippled Slab f5+ ** 104
148 Rippled Slab Arête f5 ** 75
  Higgar East
150 Captain Thugwash * f7B 1
  The Trunk
152 Seventy Degrees f6B ** 34
153 Fingery Green Wall f6B * 18
154 Bum Start Crack f5+ 30
Climb name Grade
155 Cherry's Crack S 4b 28
156 Jason's Rib HVS 5a * 14
157 The Other Side HS 4b 3
158 The Five Gs VD 15
159 The Tower of Power HVS 5b * 9
160 Golden Shower VD 4a 25
161 Independent VS 5a 4
162 Bigger Higgar VS 5a * 35
163 Bigger Higgar Indirect S 4a 16
164 The Squeeze HVD 15
165 Chockstone Gully M 14
166 The Green Arête VS 5a 4
167 Flake Chimney VD * 10
168 The Trunk E2 5c * 14
169 The Layback Crack VS 4c * 16
170 The Corner Crack HS 4c * 6
171 Precarious Rib HS 4c 22
172 Inset Flake Crack HVD 4a 11
173 The Grassy Mantel S 4b 25
174 Wide Crack HVD 4b 17
  Black Choir
176 Small Blunt Rib
-
VB 45
177 Cracked Rib E1 5a 33
178 Open Thrutch S 4b 20
179 Black Choir E5 6b * 6
180 Wide Crack HVD 4a 44
181 Green Groove HVD 4b 61
182 Front Rib
-
V2 26
  Tall Arete
184 Sketchy Pillar f6A+ ** 16
185 Ledge Wall
-
V0+ 54
186 Tall Arête Left-hand
-
V2 33
187 Tall Arête HVS 5b * 80
188 Scratchy Bun Left f6C ** 47
189 Scratchy Bun Right f5+ * 94
  Toppled Block Area
191 Tall Cracks V0+ 15
192 Sharp Arête VS 5a 45
193 Pillar
-
VB 22
194 Toppled Block Arête HS 4c 36
195 Fun Crack
-
V0 32
196 Central Pillar
-
V0+ 18
  Triple Cracks
198 Easy Slab
-
VB 27
199 Triple Cracks Arête VS 5a 48
200 Triple Cracks Arête, Sit-start f6A+ ** 72
201 Rounded Wall f6B ** 49
202 Triple Cracks Left f4 * 26
203 Triple Cracks Right f4+ * 55
204 Twin Arêtes
-
V0+ 18
205 Front Wall f4 * 48
  Krush Regime
207 Left Arête HS 4c 57
208 Low Break Traverse
-
V0+ 9
209 Harry's Hole f6C+ * 2
210 Krush Regime f7A+ ** 9
211 Right Arête f5 ** 7
212 Bolted Pillar f5 * 14
  The Flying Arete
214 Stretching Wall f6A+ * 29
215 Flying Arête Left f6B ** 47
216 The Flying Arête f7A+ *** 64
217 Flying Wall Left f5 26
218 Flying Wall Right f4+ 31
  Excreta Buttress
220 Winnie the... f6A * 78
221 Pooh f7B ** 19
222 Mick's Problem f7A+ * 22
223 Mick's Problem (Without Heel)
-
f7C 2
224 Quintessential Higgarisms f7A * 125
225 Sick f6A ** 250
226 Piss f7B *** 206
227 Hemline f7A+ ** 113
228 Shit f7B+ *** 83
229 Jump to Slopers f6A+ 24
230 Dirty Higgar f5 57
231 The Low Prow V3 66
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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