Climbs 209
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 413m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Lucy Creamer on The File (VS 4c), Higgar Tor, Peak District © Jamie Moss

Crag features

Higgar Tor is not an extensive venue but it manages to have a major impact courtesy of the Leaning Block. Steep and powerful climbing is the order of the day here and, in general, the routes only succumb to a forceful approach; hesitation will be punished with pumped forearms and a 'gritstone kiss'. The striking central line of The Rasp is the showpiece of the crag, a stunning outing that is typical of many of the routes - an overhanging crack with the odd good jam and plenty of jugs. Typically, protection is plentiful but placing it is tiring and the finishes may leave you breathless and battered. There is a theory that the routes feel under-graded because the block is slowly tipping.  

The Leaning Block is the main event but the shorter walls to either side also have worthwhile offerings but don't expect any soft touches. There is plenty of bouldering to be found, some of which has been covered here, although it is quite highball and the landings are not very friendly. The abrasive-tool-themed names of the routes are an indication of the nature of the rock here.

Approach notes

Higgar Tor is on the west side of Burbage Valley, overlooking the minor road running down to Hathersage. There is roadside parking on the right-hand side as it starts to descend towards the valley. From the parking walk down the road for about 100m to a stile on the left. Cross the stile and contour the hillside to the right. The cliff appears as you round the ridge, less than 5 mins from the car.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  First Buttress
2 Wall Left of Blizzard Nose
-
V0- 8
3 Blizzard Nose
-
V3 2
4 Cheese Block Pinch V2 4
5 Wall Games
-
V0 5
6 Flakes
-
V0+ 5
7 Tiny Corner and Wall V0 4
8 Wall from Crack V0 8
  Hathersage Climb Buttress
10 Small Beginnings S 4a 23
11 Hathersage Climb VS 5a * 33
12 All of a Quiver HVS 5a * 14
13 Tossing a Wobbler HVS 5a * 34
  The Riffler
15 The Warding S 4b 85
16 The Warding Variant S 4b 9
17 Aceldama E4 6a 5
18 The Mighty Atom E2 5c ** 84
19 Brillo Flake V3 6
20 Brillo E1 5c 141
21 The Riffler HVS 5a * 299
22 The Cotter HVS 5b * 229
23 The Rat's Tail VS 5a * 373
24 The Reamer VS 4c * 216
25 Leaning Block Gully VD 72
26 Leaning Block Gully Inside Route M 52
  The Leaning Block
28 The Sander E4 6a * 8
29 Block and Tackle E6 6b ** 21
30 Block and Tackle Direct f7B+ ** 8
31 Leaning Block Traverse f7B+ * 1
32 Surform E1 5b ** 227
33 Bastard Cut/Prince's Dustbin
-
E4 6b * 4
34 The Rasp E2 5b *** 594
35 The Router E3 5c  
36 Arnold Schwarznegger Stole My Body
-
E4 6b * 7
37 The Rasp Direct E3 6a *** 54
38 The Rasp Direct Start
-
f6A 8
39 Witness The Gritness f7A ** 70
40 Flute of Hope E4 6a *** 30
41 Bat Out of Hell E5 6a *** 147
42 Linkline E5 6c *** 6
43 Pulsar
-
E5 6c 2
44 Pulsar Direct E6 6b *** 16
45 Rowley Birkin QC E6 6c ** 4
46 Block Party *
-
E3 6a 2
47 The File VS 4c *** 1266
48 The Raven E2 6b 7
49 Paddock VD * 340
50 Paddock Face HVS 5b * 2
51 Greymalkin S 4a * 324
52 Hecate VD 140
53 Rock Around the Block E5 6a * 5
54 You've got my cnòthan * E6 6b ** 1
  The Right Walls
56 Wotan's Corner D 26
57 Wotan's Crack S 4b 226
58 Whilst You're Waiting S 4b 2
59 Chance Encounter VS 5a 24
60 Rough Justice E3 6c * 1
61 Sickle Overhang VS 4c 14
62 Jupiter's Slab E1 6a 29
63 Jupiter's Arête VS 4c 54
64 Jupiter's Crack HS 4c 60
65 Totally Facile f6B+ 1
66 Simples HS 4b 1
67 Easy Peasy E1 6a 18
68 Doddle S 4a 42
69 Lemon Squeezy HVS 5b 22
70 Walkover S 4a 41
71 Piece of Cake HVD 4a 57
72 Achilles Heel E2 5b 7
73 Laze E2 5c 11
74 Spirito di Onki E3 6a 1
75 Daley Bulletin HVS 5a 2
76 Canyon Climb HVD 4a 38
77 Zeus’s Crack HS 4b 17
78 Root Decay E4 6b 1
Climb name Grade
79 Stretcher Case E2 5c * 3
80 Splint HVS 5a * 88
81 Loki's Way HS 4b * 195
82 Fricka's Crack VS 4c * 150
83 Nal’s Face
-
VS 4c 1
84 Jade Tiger HVS 5b 16
85 Freya's Climb VD * 109
86 Freya's Wall HVD 4a 28
87 Freya's Corner D 20
  Harvester Block
89 Pippin HVS 5b 7
90 The Harvester f6B * 7
91 Combine Harvester f6C * 35
92 Pippin Dyno f7A ** 12
93 Harvester Dyno f6B+ ** 10
94 Harvest Arête f5+ * 35
95 Harvester Arête Right-hand
-
V0+ 19
96 Harvest Groove f4 * 33
97 Upper Traverse
-
V4 7
  Higgar Tor South
  Elephants Arse
100 Lapwing
-
f7A+ 3
101 Bent Inside VD 5
102 Tusk
-
f6B  
103 Free Palestine
-
f6C  
104 Curlew
-
f6C  
105 Bentley HS 4b 3
106 The Bender M 4
107 Mustela
-
f6C  
108 Rhino's Bumcheek
-
f6C  
109 Hippo's Ballbag
-
f7A  
110 Elephant’s Arse Direct Finish
-
f6B+  
111 Elephant's Arse f6B ** 6
112 Less Bent S 4a 3
113 Round the Bend S 4a 2
  Broken Wall
115 Broken Wall f4 * 32
116 Your Round
-
E1 5b * 6
117 My Round
-
E1 5a * 4
  Little Slab
119 Snow Blow
-
V0 8
120 Little Slab/Snow Bong f4 * 47
121 Snow Bong Right V0 5
122 Snow Bong Sidewall V0 4
123 Pillar Eliminate f6A+ 29
124 Slanting Crack f5+ 17
125 Straight Crack f5 18
  Like Pommel
127 Like Pommel f6B ** 35
128 Not like Pommel f5+ ** 54
129 Central Wall f4+ * 61
130 The Prow f5+ 29
  Pocket Wall
132 Broken Arête f3+ * 23
133 Pocket Wall f4+ 29
  The Big Slab
135 Big Slab Left f5 ** 21
136 The Big Slab f4+ *** 152
137 Big Slab Right f4+ ** 58
138 Higgar's Boson
-
f6A+ 1
139 Small Slab f4+ * 84
140 Small Slab Arête f3+ * 70
141 Left Parquet Arête f6B 14
142 Parquet Wall f6A+ 43
  High Mantel
144 High Mantel f5+ 13
  Rippled Slab
146 Rippled Slab f5+ ** 88
147 Rippled Slab Arête f5 ** 61
  Higgar East
  The Trunk
150 Seventy Degrees f6B ** 31
151 Fingery Green Wall f6B * 18
152 Bum Start Crack f5+ 27
153 Cherry's Crack S 4b 24
154 Jason's Rib HVS 5a * 12
155 The Other Side HS 4b 3
156 The Five Gs VD 15
Climb name Grade
157 The Tower of Power HVS 5b * 7
158 Golden Shower VD 4a 25
159 Independent VS 5a 3
160 Bigger Higgar VS 5a * 28
161 Bigger Higgar Indirect S 4a 13
162 The Squeeze HVD 13
163 Chockstone Gully M 13
164 The Green Arête VS 5a 3
165 Flake Chimney VD * 7
166 The Trunk E2 5c * 11
167 The Layback Crack VS 4c * 12
168 The Corner Crack HS 4c * 5
169 Precarious Rib HS 4c 18
170 Inset Flake Crack HVD 4a 8
171 The Grassy Mantel S 4b 22
172 Wide Crack HVD 4b 14
  Black Choir
174 Small Blunt Rib
-
VB 37
175 Cracked Rib E1 5a 28
176 Open Thrutch S 4b 17
177 Black Choir E5 6b * 4
178 Wide Crack HVD 4a 39
179 Green Groove HVD 4b 53
180 Front Rib
-
V2 26
  Tall Arete
182 Sketchy Pillar f6A+ ** 13
183 Ledge Wall
-
V0+ 50
184 Tall Arête Left-hand
-
V2 30
185 Tall Arête HVS 5b * 75
186 Scratchy Bun Left f6C ** 42
187 Scratchy Bun Right f5+ * 83
  Toppled Block Area
189 Tall Cracks V0+ 14
190 Sharp Arête VS 5a 40
191 Pillar
-
VB 16
192 Toppled Block Arête HS 4c 32
193 Fun Crack
-
V0 28
194 Central Pillar
-
V0+ 17
  Triple Cracks
196 Easy Slab
-
VB 20
197 Triple Cracks Arête VS 5a 46
198 Triple Cracks Arête, Sit-start f6A+ ** 62
199 Rounded Wall f6B ** 40
200 Triple Cracks Left f4 * 23
201 Triple Cracks Right f4+ * 51
202 Twin Arêtes
-
V0+ 17
203 Front Wall f4 * 38
  Krush Regime
205 Left Arête HS 4c 51
206 Low Break Traverse
-
V0+ 9
207 Harry's Hole f6C+ * 2
208 Krush Regime f7A+ ** 9
209 Right Arête f5 ** 6
210 Bolted Pillar f5 * 13
  The Flying Arete
212 Stretching Wall f6A+ * 25
213 Flying Arête Left f6B ** 43
214 The Flying Arête f7A+ *** 60
215 Flying Wall Left f5 25
216 Flying Wall Right f4+ 30
  Excreta Buttress
218 Winnie the... f6A * 65
219 Pooh f7B ** 17
220 Mick's Problem f7A+ * 13
221 Mick's Problem (Without Heel)
-
f7C  
222 Quintessential Higgarisms f7A * 91
223 Sick f6A ** 195
224 Piss f7B *** 175
225 Hemline f7A+ ** 87
226 Shit f7B+ *** 66
227 Jump to Slopers f6A+ 20
228 Dirty Higgar f5 50
229 The Low Prow V3 59
  Unknown or Duplicates
231 Shame on a Higgar *
-
f7A 2
232 League of Gentle Women * V4+  
233 Nymphets on Glucose * V1  
234 Womens Institute * V2  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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