Climbs 64
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 226m a.s.l
Faces W

njlyons on Orangutanarium © M Leavy

Crag features

A newish bolted crag that is quickly losing most of its loose rock, due to its current popularity and proximity to 'Summit' (WICC) climbing wall.

The crag is split into 2 tiers; upper and lower. It is a great afternoon sun trap!

Approach notes

The friendly landowner has been referred to the BMC.

Access Banned

The landowners have made it clear to the BMC that they do not allow access for climbing. They give the reasons for this as being poor behaviour by climbers, including placing fixed equipment without thier permission, lighting fires and damaging gates and access tracks.

I'm not sure why the access advice is so robust. It is a disused and secluded quarry. I would have thought that the chance of being asked to leave would be remote. The fixed gear is mostly ok apart from some of the non-stainless stuff. The routes are all fairly clean and as good as any in the small sandstone quarries. The base of the lower tier is a bit overgrown in places. Overall a pretty good crag.
guy xavier percival - 21/Jul/17
I used the topos and directions on sportsclimbs.co.uk. Be aware that the road-sign (on A4054) at the southern end of the village of Mount Pleasant actually says "Merthyr Vale". The turn to the track up to the quarry is opposite the 30mph 300m sign before you enter the village. Park in the village and walk back towards Edwardsville and up the track (there is an old gate about quarter of the way up the track). The order of the climbs, on the upper tier, on the topo is not the same as the order listed here on UKC. There are also some extra climbs listed here on UKC. Great crag!
Blackgoby - 14/Jul/11
does anyone know where to find the best topos please thanks
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
does anyone know the best place to find topos please thanks
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
are there any topos of to right hand side of the top tier? these routes tend to be a bit loose as they havent been climbed much
shavec - 16/Jun/10
Can't find it argh!
DBDeaN1990 - 18/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Tier
2 Monkey Business
-
6a+ * 68
3 Flidington Rex 5a 73
4 Big Bad Baboon 5c 47
5 Orangutanarium 6b ** 85
6 Cone Penetration Test 6b+ 37
7 Remediation Required 6b 21
8 Fisty Nuts 7b+ ** 6
9 Phill's a Thieving Little Scrote 6a+ ** 3
10 Phill's A Bit Wrong But... 7b * 1
11 Fistula 7a ** 22
12 Rabbit Proof Fence 6a+ 33
13 Uluru
-
6a+ 61
14 Cox 2 Inhibitor
-
6b+ 68
15 Proton Pump 6a * 44
16 Voltarol Vigour 6a 41
17 Sucking Dicks' Low Fenac 5c 48
18 CoCodamol Crunch 5c 56
19 Tramadol Trip 6a+ * 45
20 Paracetamol Punch
-
6b 25
21 Ed less 6a 38
22 Guillotine 5a 56
23 Final Cut 6b 21
24 Primal Cut 6b 30
25 Razor Strop 6b * 35
26 The Poddling
-
6a+ 79
27 Ed More
-
5a 100
28 Aqua Mule Show 5a 84
29 Known Only Unto God 6a+ 42
30 Oolacunta 5a 83
31 Uber Gruppen Fuhrer 4a 92
  Upper Tier
33 Polari Cartso 5c 42
34 Rhondda Tan
-
5a 60
35 Steroid Vest
-
6a 46
36 Back to Black
-
5c 23
37 Johnny Bionic
-
5c 44
38 Slabadabadoo
-
5a 47
39 Fisting the Night Away
-
5c 45
40 Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy
-
6b 32
41 Monkey Stole My Face 6a+ 45
42 Balls Of Damocles
-
6b * 34
43 Boy George V
-
6a+ 20
44 Dream Of Wet Rabbits 5c 8

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