Climbs 64
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 226m a.s.l
Faces W

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njlyons on Orangutanarium © M Leavy

Crag features

A newish bolted crag that is quickly losing most of its loose rock, due to its current popularity and proximity to 'Summit' (WICC) climbing wall.

The crag is split into 2 tiers; upper and lower. It is a great afternoon sun trap!

Approach notes

The friendly landowner has been referred to the BMC.

Restricted Access

As with many similar sites, the landowners  made it clear to the BMC  in 2011 that they do not give consent for access for climbing.  They give the reasons for this as being historcial poor behaviour by climbers, including placing fixed equipment without thier permission, lighting fires and damaging gates and access tracks.  

They do not appear to have been proactively enforcing this ban and they have not been in contact with the BMC for many years.  It's likley that climbers seen here would be asked to leave by the landowners but there have not been any reports of any confrontations or issues in recent years.  If confronted or asked to leave by the landowners, then it's advised to be polite, follow the advice given and report thye circumstances to the BMC. 


I'm not sure why the access advice is so robust. It is a disused and secluded quarry. I would have thought that the chance of being asked to leave would be remote. The fixed gear is mostly ok apart from some of the non-stainless stuff. The routes are all fairly clean and as good as any in the small sandstone quarries. The base of the lower tier is a bit overgrown in places. Overall a pretty good crag.
guy xavier percival - 21/Jul/17
I used the topos and directions on Be aware that the road-sign (on A4054) at the southern end of the village of Mount Pleasant actually says "Merthyr Vale". The turn to the track up to the quarry is opposite the 30mph 300m sign before you enter the village. Park in the village and walk back towards Edwardsville and up the track (there is an old gate about quarter of the way up the track). The order of the climbs, on the upper tier, on the topo is not the same as the order listed here on UKC. There are also some extra climbs listed here on UKC. Great crag!
Blackgoby - 14/Jul/11
does anyone know where to find the best topos please thanks
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
does anyone know the best place to find topos please thanks
craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
are there any topos of to right hand side of the top tier? these routes tend to be a bit loose as they havent been climbed much
shavec - 16/Jun/10
Can't find it argh!
DBDeaN1990 - 18/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Tier
2 Monkey Business
6a+ * 68
3 Flidington Rex 5a 77
4 Big Bad Baboon 5c 51
5 Orangutanarium 6b ** 85
6 Cone Penetration Test 6b+ 38
7 Remediation Required 6b 21
8 Fisty Nuts 7b+ ** 3
9 Phill's a Thieving Little Scrote 6a+ ** 3
10 Phill's A Bit Wrong But... 7b * 1
11 Fistula 7a ** 17
12 Rabbit Proof Fence 6a+ 35
13 Uluru
6a+ 64
14 Cox 2 Inhibitor
6b+ 66
15 Proton Pump 6a * 48
16 Voltarol Vigour 6a 44
17 Sucking Dicks' Low Fenac 5c 52
18 CoCodamol Crunch 5c 62
19 Tramadol Trip 6a+ * 46
20 Paracetamol Punch
6b 26
21 Ed less 6a 38
22 Guillotine 5a 60
Climb name Grade
23 Final Cut 6b 21
24 Primal Cut 6b 30
25 Razor Strop 6b * 35
26 The Poddling
6a+ 80
27 Ed More
5a 107
28 Aqua Mule Show 5a 91
29 Known Only Unto God 6a+ 43
30 Oolacunta 5a 89
31 Uber Gruppen Fuhrer 4a 97
  Upper Tier
33 Polari Cartso 5c 45
34 Rhondda Tan
5a 63
35 Steroid Vest
6a 46
36 Back to Black
5c 24
37 Johnny Bionic
5c 45
38 Slabadabadoo
5a 47
39 Fisting the Night Away
5c 45
40 Paul Prefers Pretty Pussy
6b 34
41 Monkey Stole My Face 6a+ 49
42 Balls Of Damocles
6b * 35
43 Boy George V
6a+ 20
44 Dream Of Wet Rabbits 5c 9

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