As with many similar sites, the landowners made it clear to the BMC in 2011 that they do not give consent for access for climbing. They give the reasons for this as being historcial poor behaviour by climbers, including placing fixed equipment without thier permission, lighting fires and damaging gates and access tracks.
They do not appear to have been proactively enforcing this ban and they have not been in contact with the BMC for many years. It's likley that climbers seen here would be asked to leave by the landowners but there have not been any reports of any confrontations or issues in recent years. If confronted or asked to leave by the landowners, then it's advised to be polite, follow the advice given and report thye circumstances to the BMC.
I'm not sure why the access advice is so robust. It is a disused and secluded quarry. I would have thought that the chance of being asked to leave would be remote. The fixed gear is mostly ok apart from some of the non-stainless stuff. The routes are all fairly clean and as good as any in the small sandstone quarries. The base of the lower tier is a bit overgrown in places. Overall a pretty good crag. guy xavier percival - 21/Jul/17
I used the topos and directions on sportsclimbs.co.uk. Be aware that the road-sign (on A4054) at the southern end of the village of Mount Pleasant actually says "Merthyr Vale". The turn to the track up to the quarry is opposite the 30mph 300m sign before you enter the village. Park in the village and walk back towards Edwardsville and up the track (there is an old gate about quarter of the way up the track). The order of the climbs, on the upper tier, on the topo is not the same as the order listed here on UKC. There are also some extra climbs listed here on UKC. Great crag! Blackgoby - 14/Jul/11
does anyone know where to find the best topos please thanks craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
does anyone know the best place to find topos please thanks craigjames1 - 10/Jul/10
are there any topos of to right hand side of the top tier?
these routes tend to be a bit loose as they havent been climbed much shavec - 16/Jun/10