Climbs 68
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Flowstone Shuffle © jim jones

Crag features

An easily accessed venue featuring natural limestone with 7 distinct sectors, each with their own character. The complex offers good quality, well bolted and enjoyable climbing with a decent mix of grades but would mainly suit those operating in the F6's. The routes start from a flat base and have full lower-offs. The crag was developed in 2007 /08 by locals Mike Doyle and Norman Clacher.

Approach notes

From the A55, take the junction 22 slip-road towards Old Colwyn. Turn towards Old Colwyn (away from the beach) and then left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas /Abergele (A547).

Stay on this main road and just before the top of the hill turn into the layby on the left to park by an apartment complex. Approach the crag down the steps.

Access Advice

Restricted parking is now in place in the lay-by, 4hrs maximum stay (30/04/16).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011)

Out of print:
Worth avoiding ambergis and the routes either side this spring, there's some great tits nesting in the crack at the beginning of the route, and it'd be uncool to disturb the nest.
Steven1993 - 30/Apr/17
Is the 4 hour parking limit in the layby enforced?
Roget - 07/May/12
had a near miss on express wall (upper section) with fly tippers lobbing rocks and metal chair etc off the top, we almost got hit by the chair at the bottom of the climb.should be a one off hopefully as the top is fenced off with high fences but top of crag can still be accessed by climbin over the wall at the top of the steps that lead down to the climbs from the car park. apart from that a great afternoon out.
pork pie girl - 05/Jun/11
Went down yesterday afternoon and found a person sleeping rough (also drunk) in a half erect tent in the undergrowth near the railway tunnel wall.. is this normal??
DaveJ 11 - 24/May/11
The initial post for this crag "a bit of a safety warning" about being able to twist the bolts on the first 3 routes on Flowstone wall gives an erroneous impression. The bolts in question can only be twisted by 1 - 2mm and are in no danger of coming out. However, the situation will continue to be monitored.
rockcat - 09/May/11
A bit of a safety warning! I was there today and all the protection bolts on/between 'Richard II 1399' to 'Go with the Flow'. It appears that the glue used hasn't mixed correctly or something, as although the eco bolts themselves are fine, they can be easily moved/twisted by hand. They should be fine for another year but this could be issue as time goes on... I was able to pick off the epoxy glue excess from around the bolts with my fingers.
ERU - 17/Oct/10
A new area facing the A55 has been climbed on recently. Details have been added under a separate crag name, Trench Wall(Conwy), to allow the recording of separate access info. There are currently 11 routes. 6 are are 6a+/6b, 3 are 6b+ and 2 are 6c or 6c+. All are pretty good.
harold walmsley - 05/Sep/10
Really good place to climb in the late afternoon with so much to keep you busy, just be warned some of the bolts are far apart and the first ones are quite high on some routes, but the climbing is spot on!
alexstudly - 07/Mar/10
I pass this place every weekend on my trip to Manchester and always wondered if there is any climbing there. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to divert on my way home and I was amazed! Me and my climbing partner traversed the 6 sections individually then done all 6 in a row. Traverse is as good as the climbs!
S-Crew - 28/May/09
Would adding a few Land marks or Junction details not be useful in the access notes for those who dont know the area ?
mux - 18/May/09
A good low-mid-grade sport climbing resource, with some nice flowstone and conglomerate features.
Fiend - 08/May/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 The Upper Wall 
2The Link6a+ 10
3Not so Simplon6b+ 5
4The Changing of the Guard6c 5
 expressway wall 
6The Long Run Home6a *106
7That's Enough New Routes for Now6c *48
8That's Enough New Routes For Now Straight Up
7a 19
9Fathers for Justice6c **89
10The Quarrywoman6c ***142
11Hotel 70 Degrees6b *62
12Clwyd MC6a+ *87
13Ryan's Route6a+ *143
14Kneeshaw Lupton6c+ 35
15The Mankind Initiative6b+ **40
16Paranoia Crack6b 26
17Adams Exams6b 25
18Tricky TraverseV5 2
 railway tunnel wall 
20tunnel vision
6a+ 94
21pier pressure - £10 down
6a+ 88
22retirement day6a *131
6a+ **201
2470 degrees
6c+ *78
2570 Degrees / Clogau gold link7a+ 5
26clogau gold
7a *43
27The Wizard is Oz7b+ *9
28The railway tunnel traverse
V5 7
 wen wall 
30gabrielle's arete
6a+ 71
31charlotte's goal
7a *95
32jenny's welsh cap
6b+ *95
33Hammy's world tour
6a *157
34chris corner
S *24
 quarry wall 
6a+ 59
37yang6a+ 86
 red wall 
39calling all wimps
6a 37
40the green bus
6c *50
41criminal bay
6c *28
42grandad's jumper
6b+ 21
 flowstone wall 
44Swing Time For Hitler6a 31
45Richard 11 13996a+ *400
46Big up the Lizard5c *564
47Tan y Lan Kids5a *543
48The Burning Spinster6b *175
49Dead Moggy Syndrome6b *134
50Go With the Flow6a *372
51The Double Helix6a+ *235
52Statement of Twlight Years6b *99
53Fixe Inox City6b+ *64
54Aphelion6a *233
55Blitzy's Jug6a+ *274
56Flowstone Shuffle6b+ **368
57Barney Rubble6b+ 28
58Whilst You Were Away6b+ 17
 penmaenrhos wall 
60Discomknockerated6b+ *98
61Flaschenburste Crack6a+ *188
62Ambergis6b+ 22
63Helyg Crack6a *191
64Desiderata6c 28
65The Gimp Crimp7a *63
66Red Handed6a *108
67Intruder5c *438
68The Trouble With Girls6b+ *106
69Sir Crimpalot7a+ 37
70Top Secret6c *97
71Terces Pot6c *47
72Broken Blackbird5a 92
73Scared Shipless6a+ *187
74Another One Bites the Dust6c 95
75Steak Slice5a 252
76Desiderata / Gimp Crimp6c 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael burrows