An easily accessed venue featuring natural limestone with 7 distinct sectors, each with their own character. The complex offers good quality, well bolted and enjoyable climbing with a decent mix of grades but would mainly suit those operating in the F6's. The routes start from a flat base and have full lower-offs. The crag was developed in 2007 /08 by locals Mike Doyle and Norman Clacher.
You'd think it didn't have to be said but some climbers have been crapping very close to the parking. Please don't!
From the A55, take the junction 22 slip-road towards Old Colwyn. Turn towards Old Colwyn (away from the beach) and then left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas /Abergele (A547).
Stay on this main road and just before the top of the hill turn into the layby on the left to park by an apartment complex. Approach the crag down the steps.
Litter and broken glass can be a problem - please remove any that you see.
Although not subkect to any restrctions - jackdaws nest on some routes, notably Flowstone shuffle Wall (sometimes on the route Aphelion) and can be quite aggressive! Please avoid any routes where they appear to nest until the end of June/mid July.
Last update: 24/05/2019
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North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos.
The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
Worth avoiding ambergis and the routes either side this spring, there's some great tits nesting in the crack at the beginning of the route, and it'd be uncool to disturb the nest. Steven1993 - 30/Apr/17
Is the 4 hour parking limit in the layby enforced? Roget - 07/May/12
had a near miss on express wall (upper section) with fly tippers lobbing rocks and metal chair etc off the top, we almost got hit by the chair at the bottom of the climb.should be a one off hopefully as the top is fenced off with high fences but top of crag can still be accessed by climbin over the wall at the top of the steps that lead down to the climbs from the car park. apart from that a great afternoon out. pork pie girl - 05/Jun/11
Went down yesterday afternoon and found a person sleeping rough (also drunk) in a half erect tent in the undergrowth near the railway tunnel wall.. is this normal?? DaveJ 11 - 24/May/11
The initial post for this crag "a bit of a safety warning" about being able to twist the bolts on the first 3 routes on Flowstone wall gives an erroneous impression. The bolts in question can only be twisted by 1 - 2mm and are in no danger of coming out. However, the situation will continue to be monitored. rockcat - 09/May/11
A bit of a safety warning! I was there today and all the protection bolts on/between 'Richard II 1399' to 'Go with the Flow'.
It appears that the glue used hasn't mixed correctly or something, as although the eco bolts themselves are fine, they can be easily moved/twisted by hand. They should be fine for another year but this could be issue as time goes on...
I was able to pick off the epoxy glue excess from around the bolts with my fingers. ERU - 17/Oct/10
A new area facing the A55 has been climbed on recently. Details have been added under a separate crag name, Trench Wall(Conwy), to allow the recording of separate access info. There are currently 11 routes. 6 are are 6a+/6b, 3 are 6b+ and 2 are 6c or 6c+. All are pretty good. harold walmsley - 05/Sep/10
Really good place to climb in the late afternoon with so much to keep you busy, just be warned some of the bolts are far apart and the first ones are quite high on some routes, but the climbing is spot on! alexstudly - 07/Mar/10
I pass this place every weekend on my trip to Manchester and always wondered if there is any climbing there. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to divert on my way home and I was amazed! Me and my climbing partner traversed the 6 sections individually then done all 6 in a row. Traverse is as good as the climbs! S-Crew - 28/May/09
Would adding a few Land marks or Junction details not be useful in the access notes for those who donít know the area ? mux - 18/May/09
A good low-mid-grade sport climbing resource, with some nice flowstone and conglomerate features. Fiend - 08/May/09