Climbs 69
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

Flowstone Shuffle © jim jones

Crag features

An easily accessed venue featuring natural limestone with 7 distinct sectors, each with their own character. The complex offers good quality, well bolted and enjoyable climbing with a decent mix of grades but would mainly suit those operating in the F6's. The routes start from a flat base and have full lower-offs. The crag was developed in 2007 /08 by locals Mike Doyle and Norman Clacher.

Approach notes

From the A55, take the junction 22 slip-road towards Old Colwyn. Turn towards Old Colwyn (away from the beach) and then left at the roundabout towards Llanddulas /Abergele (A547).

Stay on this main road and just before the top of the hill turn into the layby on the left to park by an apartment complex. Approach the crag down the steps.

Access Advice

Restricted parking is now in place in the lay-by, 4hrs maximum stay (30/04/16).

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Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
A55 sport climbs 2nd edition (2011)

Out of print:
Worth avoiding ambergis and the routes either side this spring, there's some great tits nesting in the crack at the beginning of the route, and it'd be uncool to disturb the nest.
Steven1993 - 30/Apr/17
Is the 4 hour parking limit in the layby enforced?
Roget - 07/May/12
had a near miss on express wall (upper section) with fly tippers lobbing rocks and metal chair etc off the top, we almost got hit by the chair at the bottom of the climb.should be a one off hopefully as the top is fenced off with high fences but top of crag can still be accessed by climbin over the wall at the top of the steps that lead down to the climbs from the car park. apart from that a great afternoon out.
pork pie girl - 05/Jun/11
Went down yesterday afternoon and found a person sleeping rough (also drunk) in a half erect tent in the undergrowth near the railway tunnel wall.. is this normal??
DaveJ 11 - 24/May/11
The initial post for this crag "a bit of a safety warning" about being able to twist the bolts on the first 3 routes on Flowstone wall gives an erroneous impression. The bolts in question can only be twisted by 1 - 2mm and are in no danger of coming out. However, the situation will continue to be monitored.
rockcat - 09/May/11
A bit of a safety warning! I was there today and all the protection bolts on/between 'Richard II 1399' to 'Go with the Flow'. It appears that the glue used hasn't mixed correctly or something, as although the eco bolts themselves are fine, they can be easily moved/twisted by hand. They should be fine for another year but this could be issue as time goes on... I was able to pick off the epoxy glue excess from around the bolts with my fingers.
ERU - 17/Oct/10
A new area facing the A55 has been climbed on recently. Details have been added under a separate crag name, Trench Wall(Conwy), to allow the recording of separate access info. There are currently 11 routes. 6 are are 6a+/6b, 3 are 6b+ and 2 are 6c or 6c+. All are pretty good.
harold walmsley - 05/Sep/10
Really good place to climb in the late afternoon with so much to keep you busy, just be warned some of the bolts are far apart and the first ones are quite high on some routes, but the climbing is spot on!
alexstudly - 07/Mar/10
I pass this place every weekend on my trip to Manchester and always wondered if there is any climbing there. Curiosity got the best of me so I had to divert on my way home and I was amazed! Me and my climbing partner traversed the 6 sections individually then done all 6 in a row. Traverse is as good as the climbs!
S-Crew - 28/May/09
Would adding a few Land marks or Junction details not be useful in the access notes for those who dont know the area ?
mux - 18/May/09
A good low-mid-grade sport climbing resource, with some nice flowstone and conglomerate features.
Fiend - 08/May/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Upper Wall
2 The Link 6a+ 11
3 Not so Simplon 6b+ 5
4 The Changing of the Guard 6c 5
5 Landslider's birthday bash 6a+ 1
  expressway wall
7 The Long Run Home 6a * 117
8 That's Enough New Routes for Now 6c * 49
9 That's Enough New Routes For Now Straight Up
-
7a 22
10 Fathers for Justice 6c ** 94
11 The Quarrywoman 6c *** 167
12 Hotel 70 Degrees 6b * 68
13 Clwyd MC 6a+ * 97
14 Ryan's Route 6a+ * 161
15 Kneeshaw Lupton 6c+ 43
16 The Mankind Initiative 6b+ ** 57
17 Paranoia Crack 6b 29
18 Adams Exams 6b 26
19 Tricky Traverse V5 2
  railway tunnel wall
21 tunnel vision
-
6a+ 102
22 pier pressure - £10 down
-
6a+ 102
23 retirement day 6a * 146
24 snowdrop
-
6a+ ** 221
25 70 degrees
-
6c+ * 85
26 70 Degrees / Clogau gold link 7a+ 7
27 clogau gold
-
7a * 54
28 The Wizard is Oz 7b+ * 9
29 The railway tunnel traverse
-
V5 7
  wen wall
31 gabrielle's arete
-
6a+ 76
32 charlotte's goal
-
7a * 102
33 jenny's welsh cap
-
6b+ * 101
34 Hammy's world tour
-
6a * 168
35 chris corner
-
S * 24
  quarry wall
37 yin
-
6a+ 66
38 yang 6a+ 95
  red wall
40 calling all wimps
-
6a 39
41 the green bus
-
6c * 58
42 criminal bay
-
6c * 35
43 grandad's jumper
-
6b+ 22
  flowstone wall
45 Swing Time For Hitler 6a 31
46 Richard 11 1399 6a+ * 449
47 Big up the Lizard 5c * 623
48 Tan y Lan Kids 5a * 600
49 The Burning Spinster 6b * 189
50 Dead Moggy Syndrome 6b * 142
51 Go With the Flow 6a * 416
52 The Double Helix 6a+ * 254
53 Statement of Twlight Years 6b * 102
54 Fixe Inox City 6b+ * 68
55 Aphelion 6a * 249
56 Blitzy's Jug 6a+ * 299
57 Flowstone Shuffle 6b+ ** 407
58 Barney Rubble 6b+ 30
59 Whilst You Were Away 6b+ 17
  penmaenrhos wall
61 Discomknockerated 6b+ * 113
62 Flaschenburste Crack 6a+ * 202
63 Ambergis 6b+ 22
64 Helyg Crack 6a * 205
65 Desiderata 6c 28
66 The Gimp Crimp 7a * 63
67 Red Handed 6a * 116
68 Intruder 5c * 478
69 The Trouble With Girls 6b+ * 114
70 Sir Crimpalot 7a+ 37
71 Top Secret 6c * 105
72 Terces Pot 6c * 48
73 Broken Blackbird 5a 98
74 Scared Shipless 6a+ * 201
75 Another One Bites the Dust 6c 105
76 Steak Slice 5a 272
77 Desiderata / Gimp Crimp 6c 1

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