Climbs 88
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 169m a.s.l
Faces S

Jon on Marathon Man E36a © jshields

Crag features

A sheltered and secluded crag in the southern Peak with a small but decent selection of climbs. Well worth a visit if you are in the area and fancy somewhere a little different. The climbs tend to be steep and are fairly well spread through the grades. There are several worthwhile crack climbs here plus some bold arêtes.

This is a neglected edge, which can be green and midgey; best enjoyed on late spring evenings after a dry spell. The surrounding trees mean that the whole place is exceptionally sheltered and may even be worth a look on damp days as the foliage will keep the worst of the rain off.

Approach notes

Approach by turning into Holly Lane off the A6 at Ambergate. Drive along this and the continuation called Jackass Lane, to possible parking at a lay-by outside a house and opposite a farm. Walk or drive down the track next to the house for around 250m to an open area in the woods. Follow the path on the right for 5 minutes to the first buttress.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak District: Bouldering (2011)
Froggatt to Black Rocks (2010)
Peak Climbs - Chatsworth (1996)

Out of print:
We were likewise informed (on 13 Dec. 2014) that the parking area described in the guidebook is out of bounds.
cem - 16/Dec/14
Visited the crag on 3/9/14. Spoke to a chap at the hostel who said that the car parking as described in the guidebook is private land and would we mind parking back at the road on future visits. It would only add 5 minutes to the walk in.
daveagriff - 05/Sep/14
Apart from the occasional dog walker, its very quiet. Top outs are quite uncomfortable due to thorn bushes and moss!
chriskourpas - 10/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Squeeze Beesf6A 2
2Crossbillf5 1
3Loxiaf6A 4
 Goose Roof 
5Goose ArĂȘtef3+ **4
6Foie Grasf5+ **14
7Goose Cannonf7B+ *1
8Goosecreaturef7B+ ***8
9Goosegg Groovef6A *14
10Goose Traversef5 6
 Milk and Honey 
12Strawberriesf4 5
13Ice Creamf6A+ 4
14Bananasf6A+ 5
15Peachesf6A 4
16Crustf6A+ 4
17Peaches and Crustf7A **12
18Milk and HoneyE3 6b *3
19Got Milkf6B **17
20Double Fantasyf6A+ 3
21I'm Stepping Outf6A 3
22Hold Mef3 6
23Monostrosityf6C+ *5
24LLAPf7A+ 2
25Jug-Fest Number 274f3 5
 The Pointy Boulder Area 
27High-Heelsf6B *1
28Unlocking the Fingerlockf6C 3
29I Won the Battle of the Pointy Boulder and the Bottomf6C+ 2
 Wooden Shed Area 
31Don Turnbulleone
E1 5a 7
32Arboreal Entertainment
VD 9
33Ashes to AshesVS 4c 10
34Liquid CoolE3 6b *1
35Pod of the MilkweedHVS 4c 3
36Tits Out for the SponsorsE2 5b 3
37I Think, Therefore I Doss
E1 5c *2
 Lazy Day 
39BrianE2 5b 7
40Positively PointlessE3 5c 9
41That's Cool By MeE6 6b *2
42Totally Pointless
V8 *1
43Concrete ParachuteE3 6a *7
44Lazy DayE5 5c ***19
45Lazy Day (with old bolts)E3 6a ***18
46FrydayE6 6b ***1
47Plumber's DirectE1 5c *10
48Plumbers CornerVS 4c **80
49A Farewell to ArmsE1 5b **38
50Visually Stunning UnderpantsE5 6b *3
51Bramble CrackHVS 5b **79
52BlackberryE3 6b *19
53The Seven Year PitchE2 6a  
 The Hostel 
55Curving CrackVS 4c *20
56FlyawayE1 5b **53
57Marathon ManE3 6a **34
58Sendero Luminoso
HVS 5a 11
59The Bat HouseHVD *32
60Preposterous Trails
HS 4b *5
61Fumbling CavemanVS 4c 2
62Purgatorial Progress
VS 4b * 
63Pillar ChimneyVD *19
64Holly Days
HS 4a 7
65Sole Destruction
E1 5b  
66Trumpton Riot
E2 5c  
67The Man from del Monte, He Say Yes!HVS 5b *7
68Unidentified Flying ObjectE2 5c **23
69S.H.A.D.O.E1 5c 2
70Wet with SweatE2 5c **6
71Reading Auden with the Warden
HVS 5a 1
E1 5b 6
73Black CornerS 4a *36
74Terse Verse
HVS 5a 1
75Pennyf6C+ 1
76Appointment with Beer
E2 5b  
77Strainge Bird ain't that Strange
E1 6a 2
78Half LightVS 4c 7
79Moo Cowf7A+ **2
80Moo Cow Sit-StartV8+ **2
81My KaiE8 6c ***1
82Gecko BlasterE7 6c **4
83Reel Around the Fountain
HVS 5b  
 Undercut Buttress 
85Kaiserschmasf6B *2
86Face Plantf6A 1
 The Far Side 
88Empire of the Ants
E3 5c  
89Ben Bellamy
90Tough Guys Don't DanceE3 5c * 
91The Far Side
E2 5b  
 Unknown Location 
93Starting Overf6B 3
94Sean's Dreamf6A 6
95Austerity Measuresf5 5
96More for Lessf6A+ 6
97Meat Boutiquef7A 3

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