Altitude 167m a.s.l
Jon on Marathon Man E36a © jshields
A sheltered and secluded crag in the southern Peak with a small but decent selection of climbs. Well worth a visit if you are in the area and fancy somewhere a little different. The climbs tend to be steep and are fairly well spread through the grades. There are several worthwhile crack climbs here plus some bold arêtes.
This is a neglected edge, which can be green and midgey; best enjoyed on late spring evenings after a dry spell. The surrounding trees mean that the whole place is exceptionally sheltered and may even be worth a look on damp days as the foliage will keep the worst of the rain off.
It's also very shaded by the woods so a good choice on an extremely hot day - you're not going to get sunburnt and overly hot.
If top-roping, you're generally anchoring off trees at the top. If leading there are quite a few cracks including some really thin ones, so a set of micronuts might just be helpful in places. There are also some fixed bolts on some routes, some looking fresh and shiny, and some looking rusty. Treat with the normal caution.
Approach by turning into Holly Lane off the A6 at Ambergate. Drive along this and the continuation called Jackass Lane, to possible parking at a lay-by outside a house and opposite a farm. Walk or drive down the track next to the house for around 250m to an open area in the woods where about 9 cars can park and there are information boards about the woods. Take the path on the right - major path marked with arrows on posts - for about 5 minutes to the first buttress. From the path looking left you can see the first buttress which is not much more than a boulder, but keep going and the full cliffs are about 2-3 minutes more. There is a small wooden hut and bench by the path when you get to the cliffs.
Note - on some Sat Nav maps, Jackass Lane is not marked, and it's Holly Lane all the way to the top.junction with Belper Lane.
Access update 21 Sept 2019: Holly Lane is closed from Ambergate until 08 November 2019 according to the closure notices. There is a signposted diversion which takes about 6 additional miles going north. There is also a perfectly good route to the top of Holly Lane / Jackass Lane coming from the south from Belper Lane End.
|We were likewise informed (on 13 Dec. 2014) that the parking area described in the guidebook is out of bounds.|
cem - 16/Dec/14
|Visited the crag on 3/9/14. Spoke to a chap at the hostel who said that the car parking as described in the guidebook is private land and would we mind parking back at the road on future visits. It would only add 5 minutes to the walk in.|
daveagriff - 05/Sep/14
|Apart from the occasional dog walker, its very quiet. Top outs are quite uncomfortable due to thorn bushes and moss!|
chriskourpas - 10/Apr/12
Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Boy