Climbs 89
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 167m a.s.l
Faces S

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Jon on Marathon Man E36a © jshields

Crag features

A sheltered and secluded crag in the southern Peak with a small but decent selection of climbs. Well worth a visit if you are in the area and fancy somewhere a little different. The climbs tend to be steep and are fairly well spread through the grades. There are several worthwhile crack climbs here plus some bold arêtes.

This is a neglected edge, which can be green and midgey; best enjoyed on late spring evenings after a dry spell. The surrounding trees mean that the whole place is exceptionally sheltered and may even be worth a look on damp days as the foliage will keep the worst of the rain off.

It's also very shaded by the woods so a good choice on an extremely hot day - you're not going to get sunburnt and overly hot.

If top-roping, you're generally anchoring off trees at the top. If leading there are quite a few cracks including some really thin ones, so a set of micronuts might just be helpful in places. There are also some fixed bolts on some routes, some looking fresh and shiny, and some looking rusty. Treat with the normal caution.

Approach notes

Approach by turning into Holly Lane off the A6 at Ambergate. Drive along this and the continuation called Jackass Lane, to possible parking at a lay-by outside a house and opposite a farm. Walk or drive down the track next to the house for around 250m to an open area in the woods where about 9 cars can park and there are information boards about the woods. Take the path on the right - major path marked with arrows on posts - for about 5 minutes to the first buttress. From the path looking left you can see the first buttress which is not much more than a boulder, but keep going and the full cliffs are about 2-3 minutes more. There is a small wooden hut and bench by the path when you get to the cliffs.

Note - on some Sat Nav maps, Jackass Lane is not marked, and it's Holly Lane all the way to the top.junction with Belper Lane.

Access update 21 Sept 2019: Holly Lane is closed from Ambergate until 08 November 2019 according to the closure notices. There is a signposted diversion which takes about 6 additional miles going north. There is also a perfectly good route to the top of Holly Lane / Jackass Lane coming from the south from Belper Lane End.

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Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
We were likewise informed (on 13 Dec. 2014) that the parking area described in the guidebook is out of bounds.
cem - 16/Dec/14
Visited the crag on 3/9/14. Spoke to a chap at the hostel who said that the car parking as described in the guidebook is private land and would we mind parking back at the road on future visits. It would only add 5 minutes to the walk in.
daveagriff - 05/Sep/14
Apart from the occasional dog walker, its very quiet. Top outs are quite uncomfortable due to thorn bushes and moss!
chriskourpas - 10/Apr/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Prow
2 Squeeze Bees f6A 2
3 Crossbill f5 1
4 Loxia f6A 4
  Goose Roof
6 Goose ArĂȘte f3+ ** 5
7 Foie Gras f5+ ** 18
8 Goose Cannon f7B+ * 1
9 Goose Steps
-
f5+ 1
10 Goose Traverse f5 7
11 Goosecreature f7B+ *** 8
12 Goosegg Groove f6A * 18
  Monostrosity
14 Hold Me f3 7
15 Monostrosity f6C+ * 8
16 LLAP f6C+ 4
17 Jug-Fest Number 274 f3 6
  Peaches and Crust
19 Strawberries f4 6
20 Ice Cream f6A+ 6
21 Bananas f6A+ 7
22 Peaches f6A 6
23 Crust f6A+ 7
24 Peaches and Crust f7A ** 15
25 Milk and Honey E3 6b * 3
26 Got Milk f6B ** 22
27 Double Fantasy f6A+ 6
28 I'm Stepping Out f6A 5
29 Starting Over f6B 4
30 Sean's Dream f6A 7
  Short Long Wall
32 Meat Boutique f7A 3
33 Austerity Measures f5 6
34 More for Less f6A+ 7
Climb name Grade
  The Pointy Boulder Area
36 High-Heels f6B * 2
37 Unlocking the Fingerlock f6C 4
38 I Won the Battle of the Pointy Boulder and the Bottom f6C+ 4
  Wooden Shed Area
40 Don Turnbulleone
-
E1 5a 8
41 Arboreal Entertainment
-
VD 10
42 Ashes to Ashes VS 4c 11
43 Liquid Cool E3 6b * 1
44 Pod of the Milkweed HVS 4c 4
45 Tits Out for the Sponsors E2 5b 4
46 I Think, Therefore I Doss
-
E1 5c * 3
  Lazy Day
48 Brian E2 5b 8
49 Positively Pointless E3 5c 11
50 Totally Pointless
-
V8 * 1
51 That's Cool By Me E6 6b * 2
52 Concrete Parachute E3 6a * 6
53 Lazy Day E5 5c *** 22
54 Lazy Day (with old bolts) E3 5c *** 25
55 Fryday E6 6b *** 1
56 Plumber's Direct E1 5c * 10
57 Plumbers Corner VS 4c ** 91
58 A Farewell to Arms E1 5b ** 44
59 Visually Stunning Underpants E5 6b * 4
60 Bramble Crack HVS 5b ** 98
61 Blackberry E3 6b * 25
62 The Seven Year Pitch E2 6a  
  The Hostel Area
64 Curving Crack VS 4c * 27
65 Flyaway E1 5b ** 61
66 Marathon Man E3 6a ** 40
67 Sendero Luminoso
-
HVS 5a 12
68 The Bat House HVD * 33
Climb name Grade
69 Preposterous Trails
-
HS 4b * 13
70 Fumbling Caveman VS 4c 5
71 Purgatorial Progress
-
VS 4b * 1
72 Pillar Chimney VD * 21
73 Holly Days
-
HS 4a 8
74 Sole Destruction
-
E1 5b  
75 Trumpton Riot
-
E2 5c  
76 The Man from Delmonte HVS 5b * 9
77 Unidentified Flying Object E2 5c ** 28
78 S.H.A.D.O. E1 5c 3
79 Wet with Sweat E2 5c ** 8
80 Reading Auden with the Warden
-
HVS 5a 2
81 Kinkyville
-
E1 5b 7
82 Black Corner S 4a * 40
83 Terse Verse
-
HVS 5a 1
84 Penny f6C+ 1
85 Appointment with Beer
-
E2 5b 1
86 Strainge Bird ain't that Strange
-
E1 6a 3
87 Half Light VS 4c 8
88 Moo Cow f7A+ ** 2
89 Moo Cow Sit-start V8+ ** 2
90 My Kai E8 6c *** 1
91 Gecko Blaster E7 6c ** 5
92 Reel Around the Fountain
-
HVS 5b  
  Undercut Buttress
94 Kaiserschmas f6B * 3
95 Face Plant f6A 2
  The Far Side
97 Empire of the Ants
-
E3 5c  
98 Ben Bellamy
-
VD  
99 Tough Guys Don't Dance E3 5c *  
100 The Far Side
-
E2 5b  

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