Climbs 62
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 885m a.s.l
Faces SW

'Joint', 7a crack, Villanueva de Cauche, in the hills between Malaga and Antequera © iggy healey

Crag features

'Yugoslavia' is the name given to an eye catching crag close to the small mountain village of Villanueva de Cauche. It is composed of a vertical wall of vivid orange limestone that rises above a grassy slope only seconds from a convenient but quiet road. The crag is also blessed with a southerly, open aspect and a view to die for out over the hills and mountains that run down to the coast and west across to El Torcal. There is a decent spread of grades although the harder lines are the best and all of the climbs are very fingery and technical with progress normally being made on tiny edges and the odd pocket or flake crack.

Approach notes

From El Chorro head for Antequera via Valle de Abdalajis. Go through Antequera following signs for Málaga eventually picking up the A45 motorway. Take this and exit at the Colmenar, Villanueva de Cauche exit. Follow signs for Colmenar (do not go to the village of Villanueva de Cauche) and after 2km the crag is obvious on the left. (1 hour 15 minutes from El Chorro depending on traffic).

Guidebooks

El Chorro

A full colour guidebook dedicated the area around El Chorro in Andalusia in Spain. Covering the famous Gorge and all the fine crags near the village, plus many superb outlying areas. The book is in the modern Rockfax style with full colour photo topos, descriptions, symbols and maps, plus loads of excellent action shots.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Andalucia (2005)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Sector Arriba
2 Resident Evil 7c *** 3
3 Tomahawk
-
7b 3
4 Escandalo
-
7a  
5 El Sendero de la Traición
-
7a+ 2
6 El Esquinazo
-
6c 8
7 Luz del Norte
-
6b 9
8 Xapó
-
6b 4
9 Levanta Bicho 5a 3
10 Una de Espeto
-
5c 5
11 Sureña 6a+ 12
12 Comando Hulay
-
7a+ 2
13 Rasca y Pica 7b+ 3
  Sector El Puente de Roca
15 Lagrimas Negras
-
7a  
16 Me lo Dices en la Calle
-
7a  
17 Mal Amigo
-
Project  
18 Ojo del Culo
-
6b  
19 Hotel La Pedriza
-
6b+  
20 Amigo de Conveniencia
-
6b  
21 Bloc Sur 6a 1
22 Conchi
-
5c 1
  Sector Pared Roja
24 Peluca 6a+ 15
25 ... en escabeche 6a+ 21
26 Salt la tapia 6b+ 11
27 Er melillero 6c+ * 4
28 Malozevik 7a ** 7
29 Al evosia 8b  
30 Chantaje emocional 8b *  
31 Piel palida 7c+ ** 2
32 Rascayu 7c *  
33 Yonky tronky 7b 5
34 El frescuni 6c+ ** 8
35 Sin sospecha 7a ** 16
36 Ojos que no ven 7b * 3
37 Los fabulosos manowar 6c+ 2
38 El lengueton 6b+ * 9
39 Finita mix 7a+ 1
40 Diedro candela 7a+ *** 19
41 Regional Preferente
-
Project  
42 Vitamin bidon 7c *** 3
43 Iron Maiden 8a+ **  
44 Poison Jiménez
-
Project  
45 Mijya-tovik 8a+ ***  
46 Supertiri 8a *** 6
47 Vas de pro 8a ***  
48 Diedro 4+1 5a * 14
49 Ano mariana 6c 1
50 Airbag 6c 2
51 El triguevo 6a+ ** 15
52 Straight Up 6a+ * 7
53 El biyema 6b+ * 7
54 Papa piquillo 6c ** 10
55 Gota a gota 6b+ ** 8
56 El milagro de p. tinto 6b * 6
57 Moribunda 6b+  
58 S'acabo Left 6c  
59 S'acabó
-
Project  
60 Mira tu por donde! * 7a+ 1
61 Diedro jhon long * M e1 1
62 Left of Mira tu por donde * 7a+  
63 Right of El Sendero * 7a+ 1
64 Pureta (right of Tomahawk) *
-
7b+ 1
65 Right of Pureta *
-
7b+  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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