Climbs 135
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 252m a.s.l
Faces all

Dave in The Cave © StuM

Crag features

Largely neglected by climbers but very popular with boulderers. It is a beautiful spot with a superb variety of quality problems, especially in the low-to-mid grades. The landings are mostly good, the rock quality solid and the setting is stunning. 

It is a low-lying crag with routes facing in all directions. The place can be green after rain, and the less-traveled routes can be lichenous.

Since the vandalism in Feb 2013 please be very wary of the boulder problems with chipping - the exposed core in incredibly soft. It's going to take decades to recover.

Approach notes

The crag is situated in the central Peak, 5km south of Bakewell. There are two approaches:

1 - Park by the side of the B5056 Bakewell to Winster road opposite a wide farm entrance. Cross the road and follow the gravel track that leads to the farm but keep left up the hill heading towards the rocky towers of Robin Hood's Stride.

2 - On the minor road that runs from Alport to Elton there is some limited parking by a stile in view of Robin Hood's Stride. Follow the collapsed wall for 5mins.  

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Boulders
2 Flake Slab Arête f5+ * 75
3 Flake Slab f5 ** 170
4 Joy of Noledge f4+ * 185
5 Joy of Ledge f2+ * 224
6 The Arch f2+ * 273
7 Arch Direct f6A+ * 108
8 T Slab f4+ ** 260
9 T Slab Arête f4+ ** 262
10 Wave Slab f3 27
  Green Boulder
12 Ben's Groove f7B+ *  
13 Slap Bass Odyssey f7B ** 2
14 The Gritstone Gent/Zaff's Mantel f7A ** 18
15 Green Boulder Traverse f6C ** 2
16 Short Arête f6B ** 181
17 Short Wall f7A * 9
18 Moaning Mellor f6B ** 5
19 The Quickie V0 18
20 Boysen's Crack f6C * 7
21 King of Fools f7B+ *  
  The Weasel Pinnacle
23 Letter Route D 37
24 West Arête HS 4c 16
25 Letter Route Arête V2 ** 67
26 Stonnis Wall HVS 5b 38
27 Long Climb VS 4c * 9
28 The Crucifix HS 4c 14
  The Main Edge
30 Boomerang Wall f5+ * 4
31 Boomerang-erang f5+ ** 81
32 Boomerang-erang Sit-Start
-
V3 ** 31
33 Zigzag Climb
-
S 4a 4
34 Forgotten Prow f6A+ 2
35 Grovel f6B+ * 2
36 Burley's Bridge f6B * 4
37 Straight Crack S 4b 1
38 Big Al Qaeda f7B *** 25
39 Nobody Knows f6B * 19
40 Muscle Slab f5 * 71
41 Muscle Crack S 4b * 18
  Inaccessible Pinnacle
43 Pinnacle Chimney M 29
44 Crack and Furrow S 4b ** 52
45 Furrow Crack Direct
-
V1 5c 6
46 Left of Picalli's f7B * 2
47 Picalli's Pickle f7A+ * 11
48 Picalli's Piccalilli V2 ** 1
49 Boulder Climb HS 4c ** 46
50 Path of the Righteous Man E7 6c *  
51 Byne's Traverse HVS 5b * 5
52 Byne's Traverse (Start) V0 6
53 Byne's Cracklet
-
V0 1
54 Old Hat HVS 5c * 1
55 Short Climb VD 79
56 AP Special
-
f6A 1
  Dorsal Fin
58 Shy Slab f4+ 71
59 Dorsal Arête f2+ 214
60 JT f3+ * 286
61 JT Crack f3 ** 288
62 Flipper Arête f6A ** 169
63 Flipper f6C ** 68
64 Vandals f5 *** 327
65 Jaws f7A+ * 8
66 Jaws (with chipped holds) V3 19
67 Potty Time f4+ 98
68 Black Arête f5+ 23
  The Square Block
70 Ben's Wall f7C ** 51
71 Spine Left-Hand f6B *** 410
72 The Spine f4+ *** 478
73 Spinal Slab f7A ** 103
74 Angle Arête f5 * 475
75 Angle Arête Right f3 * 306
76 Angle Arête (No Hands) V3 * 10
77 Scoop Slab f3 302
78 Scoop Slab Traverse f4+ ** 469
79 The Sitdown Finish VB 45
80 Shadow Slab f2+ 134
81 Flake Crack
-
V0- 4b 79
82 Square Block Crack f5 36
83 Milking the Cow
-
V1 29
84 Milking the Cow Shelf Start V3 8
85 The Nose f6B+ * 33
86 Leaf Groove
-
V0 3
87 Bulging Arête V0- 4
  Southwest Boulders
89 Scagliola E5 6b ** 6
90 Scrittle Slab
-
V1 3
91 Jams O'Mantel f6B 103
92 Back Bottom f5+ 8
93 Concave Crimper f6A+ * 83
94 Ben and Jerry's Love Child f7A 3
95 Diamond Slab Left f5+ ** 79
96 Diamond Slab f6C+ ** 22
97 Diamond Slab Right f5+ * 40
98 Front On f5+ * 11
99 Inside Groove f5 11
100 Hoppin' Mud f7B+ 1
101 Jerry's Arête f7A *** 117
102 Jerry's Boss Extention V7 1
103 Boss Hog f5 ** 66
104 Boss Start V3 22
105 Bossa Nova f6C ** 26
106 Roscoe f6A+ * 15
107 Daisy f4 24
108 Moss Hogg
-
V2 2
109 Chipped Slab
-
V1 16
110 Robin Hood's Crack
-
VD 4a 5
  The Cave
112 Cave Left f6A * 74
113 The Foot Locker f5+ * 50
114 Cave Corner
-
V4 6
115 The Haddon Haul f5 12
116 The Blob's Eliminate f7A+ *** 43
117 Blobs Eliminate Left Finish
-
f7A+ 16
118 The Cave Problem f7A ** 544
119 Cave Problem Direct f6A+ * 33
  Kaluza Klein Area
121 Combined Tactics f6A+ 1
122 A Day without Cake f6B 4
123 Y Crack
-
VS 5a  
124 Hugo First f6A * 28
125 The Kid f7A ** 145
126 Mock Beggar's Wall
-
E4 6b  
127 No Regrets f7C * 2
128 The Growler f7C+ ** 1
129 Grizzly Arête f7A+ ** 94
130 Dry Wit in a Wet Country f7A *** 253
131 The Knot Grass Stunt
-
E4 6b 1
132 Kaluza Klein E7 6c *** 25
133 Captain Calamity
-
E7 6c 1
134 Elderberry Layback f3+ 44
135 Elderberry Layback (Sit-Start)
-
V1 22
136 Elderberry Slab V0- 24
137 My Prune f7C ***  
138 Pain au Raisin
-
E4 6b  
139 Cenotaph Coroner
-
E2 5b  
140 Sweet Thing f8A *  
141 Sweet Thing (Standing Start) V9 ** 2
142 Sweet Arête f6B+ ** 116
143 Sweet Arête (Stand-Start) V2 20
144 The Staircase f2+ * 82
145 Jug and Slab f5+ 4

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