UKC

Climbs 138
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 252m a.s.l
Faces all

Dave in The Cave © StuM

Crag features

Largely neglected by climbers but very popular with boulderers. It is a beautiful spot with a superb variety of quality problems, especially in the low-to-mid grades. The landings are mostly good, the rock quality solid and the setting is stunning. 

It is a low-lying crag with routes facing in all directions. The place can be green after rain, and the less-traveled routes can be lichenous.

Since the vandalism in Feb 2013 please be very wary of the boulder problems with chipping - the exposed core in incredibly soft. It's going to take decades to recover.

Approach notes

The crag is situated in the central Peak, 5km south of Bakewell. There are two approaches:

1 - Park by the side of the B5056 Bakewell to Winster road opposite a wide farm entrance. Cross the road and follow the gravel track that leads to the farm but keep left up the hill heading towards the rocky towers of Robin Hood's Stride.

2 - On the minor road that runs from Alport to Elton there is some limited parking by a stile in view of Robin Hood's Stride. Follow the collapsed wall for 5mins.  

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lower Boulders
2 Flake Slab Arête f5+ * 95
3 Flake Slab f5 ** 212
4 Joy of Noledge f4+ * 234
5 Joy of Ledge f2+ * 287
6 The Arch f2+ * 355
7 Arch Direct f6A+ * 125
8 T Slab f4+ ** 343
9 T Slab Arête f4+ ** 339
10 Wave Slab f3 40
  Green Boulder
12 Ben's Groove f7B+ *  
13 Slap Bass Odyssey f7B ** 2
14 The Gritstone Gent/Zaff's Mantel f7A ** 25
15 Green Boulder Traverse f6C ** 5
16 Short Arête f6B ** 213
17 Short Wall f7A * 11
18 Moaning Mellor f6B ** 10
19 The Quickie V0 20
20 Boysen's Crack f6C * 9
21 King of Fools f7B+ *  
  The Weasel Pinnacle
23 Letter Route D 51
24 West Arête HS 4c 17
25 Letter Route Arête V2 ** 68
26 Stonnis Wall HVS 5b 37
27 Long Climb VS 4c * 9
28 The Crucifix HS 4c 16
  The Main Edge
30 Boomerang Wall f5+ * 9
31 Boomerang-erang f5+ ** 88
32 Boomerang-erang Sit-Start
-
V3 ** 37
33 Zigzag Climb
-
S 4a 7
34 Forgotten Prow f6A+ 4
35 Grovel f6B+ * 4
36 Burley's Bridge f6B * 4
37 Straight Crack S 4b 3
38 Big Al Qaeda f7B *** 35
39 Nobody Knows f6B * 23
40 Muscle Slab f5 * 81
41 Muscle Crack S 4b * 24
  Inaccessible Pinnacle
43 Pinnacle Chimney M 34
44 Crack and Furrow S 4b ** 56
45 Furrow Crack Direct
-
V1 5c 7
46 Left of Picalli's f7B * 2
47 Picalli's Pickle f7A+ * 11
48 Picalli's Piccalilli V2 ** 2
49 Boulder Climb HS 4c ** 50
50 Path of the Righteous Man E7 6c *  
Climb name Grade
51 Byne's Traverse HVS 5b * 5
52 Byne's Traverse (Start) V0 9
53 Byne's Cracklet
-
V0 2
54 Old Hat HVS 5c * 1
55 Short Climb VD 84
56 AP Special
-
f6A 1
  Dorsal Fin
58 Shy Slab f4+ 106
59 Dorsal Arête f2+ 290
60 JT f3+ * 371
61 JT Crack f3 ** 372
62 Flipper Arête f6A ** 199
63 Flipper f6C ** 76
64 Vandals f5 *** 417
65 Jaws f7A+ * 15
66 Jaws (with chipped holds) V3 29
67 Potty Time f4+ 130
68 Black Arête f5+ 32
  The Square Block
70 Ben's Wall f7C ** 62
71 Spine Left-Hand f6B *** 469
72 The Spine f4+ *** 563
73 Spinal Slab f7A ** 103
74 Angle Arête f5 * 575
75 Angle Arête Right f3 * 419
76 Angle Arête (No Hands) V3 * 18
77 Scoop Slab f3 409
78 Scoop Slab Traverse f4+ ** 571
79 The Sitdown Finish VB 49
80 Shadow Slab f2+ 186
81 Flake Crack
-
V0- 4b 90
82 Square Block Crack f5 67
83 Milking the Cow
-
V1 35
84 Milking the Cow Shelf Start V3 10
85 The Nose f6B+ * 36
86 Leaf Groove
-
V0 5
87 Bulging Arête V0- 6
  Southwest Boulders
89 Jams O'Mantel f6B 131
90 Back Bottom f5+ 13
91 Concave Crimper f6A+ * 97
92 Ben and Jerry's Love Child f7A 13
93 Diamond Slab Left f5+ ** 89
94 Diamond Slab f6C+ ** 23
95 Diamond Slab Right f5+ * 47
96 Front On f5+ * 13
97 Inside Groove f5 16
98 Hoppin' Mud f7B+ 1
99 Jerry's Arête f7A *** 138
100 Jerry's Boss Extention V7 7
Climb name Grade
101 Boss Hog f5 ** 77
102 Boss Start V3 31
103 Bossa Nova f6C ** 29
104 Roscoe f6A+ * 16
105 Daisy f4 29
106 Moss Hogg
-
V2 4
107 Chipped Slab
-
V1 18
108 Robin Hood's Crack
-
VD 4a 6
109 Scagliola E5 6b ** 7
110 Scrittle Slab
-
V1 2
111 Aw Heel No f5+ *  
112 Breakaway f4+ *  
  The Cave
114 Cave Left f6A * 100
115 The Foot Locker f5+ * 57
116 Cave Corner
-
V4 12
117 The Haddon Haul f5 24
118 The Blob's Eliminate f7A+ *** 56
119 Blobs Eliminate Left Finish
-
f7A+ 24
120 The Cave Problem f7A ** 598
121 Cave Problem Direct f6A+ * 54
  Kaluza Klein Area
123 Combined Tactics f6A+ 1
124 A Day without Cake f6B 4
125 Y Crack
-
VS 5a  
126 Hugo First f6A * 39
127 The Kid f7A ** 177
128 Mock Beggar's Wall
-
E4 6b  
129 No Regrets f7C * 2
130 The Growler f7C+ ** 1
131 Grizzly Arête f7A+ ** 121
132 Dry Wit in a Wet Country f7A *** 244
133 The Knot Grass Stunt
-
E4 6b 1
134 Kaluza Klein E7 6c *** 30
135 Captain Calamity
-
E7 6c 1
136 Elderberry Layback f3+ 47
137 Elderberry Layback (Sit-Start)
-
V1 23
138 Elderberry Slab V0- 25
139 My Prune f7C *** 1
140 Pain au Raisin
-
E4 6b  
141 Cenotaph Coroner
-
E2 5b  
142 Sweet Thing f8A *  
143 Sweet Thing (Standing Start) V9 ** 2
144 Sweet Arête f6B+ ** 125
145 Sweet Arête (Stand-Start) V2 22
146 The Staircase f2+ * 86
147 Jug and Slab f5+ 4
148 Black arête sds f6C 1

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