Climbs 24
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

FA of Apprentice Wall on a stunning wintery afternoon. © sfletch

Crag features

Some of the climbs are worth the visit but they are broken by vegetation. There are a few multi pitch routes and some normal single pitch routes. The views are fantastic. You will see Murray's monument, beautiful galloway hills and of course goats. The infamous midge also likes Craigdews so bring repellant or come on a breezy day.

Approach notes

Follow A712 from New Galloway or Newton Stewart depending where your driving from. The Crag is located next to a monument and is within a wild goat park. There is a large car park for the goat park and you access the Crag from there. Walk straight over the field. Gardening should be kept to a minimum as it is a nature reserve and a climbing ban runs from 15 Feb to 30 Jun due to rare nesting birds.

Bird restriction lifted on June 15th this year.
machars - 21/Jun/14
White slab is solo fun close to the car park rest of the crag pretty damp and mucky . Exactly why i love Scottish climbing! oh and watch out for ticks or do i just look like a goat?
Chris Hind - 01/Nov/11
Combined with it's neighbour Corwar this area is great for a wide range of climbing. Multi pitch, single pitch and bouldering.
K_MacLeod - 09/Sep/08
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Tree Walls
2 Cemetery Goats
-
HVS 5a * 1
3 Vorsprung Goat Technique
-
HVS 4c  
4 Amazing Technicolour Dreamgoat
-
E1 5b ** 1
  Ramp Slabs
6 Dirty Old Raingoat
-
VS 4a 1
7 Toga Confusion
-
S 3c * 1
8 Capricorn Relish
-
HS 4a * 2
  Kid's Buttress
10 Fourpences are Soundless
-
HVS 5b  
11 The Goatbusters
-
E2 5c *  
  Central Section
13 Das Goat VD * 11
14 Up Perisgoat VS * 2
15 Goathouse of Fleet VS 4c 1
16 Bonny and the Goats HVS 5a 1
17 Goats of Delirium
-
HVS 5a * 3
18 Central Route (original finish) VS 5a * 4
19 Central Route
-
VS 4c * 3
20 Nanny State
-
E2 6a **  
21 Astrogoat
-
VS 4c *  
22 The dark side VS 4b  
  White Slab
24 The Banana Goat
-
VS 4c *  
25 Three men in a goat
-
S 4a 5
26 Just One More Goat
-
VD ** 1
27 One man, one goat
-
VD 6
28 Just kidding
-
HS 5
29 Apprentice Wall f6C *** 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer her_t6