Climbs 21
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 20m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Apocalypse Gull John Heugh E5 6a** © Russell Birkett

Crag features

Contrary to it's modest appraisal in the current guide Johns heugh is an excellent crag. It is also found to be in condition more often than other north facing crags on this section of coast, and the sea birds are very sparse at present with little evidence of them being a problem for a while.
This all added with the recent addition of more quality routes, Johns heugh is now one of the best high extreme crags on the coast south of Aberdeen.
All routes in the current guide have been repeated, and quality established.
The cliff reaches 25m in height and comprises of a steep wall to the left and to the right, a smooth vertical wall.

Approach notes

Park at the Sports Hall / Library in Newtonhill and follow the approach described in SMC North East Outcrops with the following amendment: Follow the crop field edge to the SECOND large fencepost (the first is an upright sleeper at a shallow corner). Go through the fence here and bear left to avoid gorse and back right to contour above the cliff-top until a rocky shelf is reachy (stake 10m back and up from the edge). Follow easy rock ledges down to sea-level and back left past one slightly tidal step to expansive shelves beneath the face.

Stake belay, Bring a spare rope as they are some way back from the edge, not essential but easier!
As with other crags in the area, go when a good north wind is blowing or a sunny morning to get the best conditions.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Hunchback
VS 4c * 4
2 Check Shorty
E1 5c 3
3 Hunchback Direct E2 5c * 17
4 Pump Junkie
E3 5c * 23
5 Spanked Roof Monkey
E4 6a ** 13
6 Jaded Ledge Lizard
E4 5c ** 31
7 Jaded Direct E4 6a * 10
Climb name Grade
8 Arrhythmia
E6 6b ** 6
9 Veinspotting
E5 6b *** 8
10 Rythm of the Heart
E4 6a ** 13
11 Asystole
E5 6a * 2
12 Black Auk Down
E3 5c ** 5
13 The Dirty Doos'en
E2 5b * 13
14 Who Dares Wings it
E4 5c *** 4
Climb name Grade
15 Apocalypse Gull
E5 6a ** 2
16 Where Seagulls Dare
E4 6a *  
17 Where Seagulls Really Dare E5 6a * 1
18 Warmup 6c * 6
19 Hybrid Gull E4 5c * 3
20 Pump Junkie Direct E4 5c ** 9
21 The Gulls of Navarone E5 6a * 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Russell Birkett