Climbs 22
Rocktype Greenstone

Faces E

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Roger leading Rebel Yell (E2 5b), Black Head, Cornwall. © miku979

Crag features

Small outcrop south west of Coverack. The rock is peridotite and is sound where it is sea washed, though rather loose at the top. The crag is non-tidal, except for some routes on the Wall of Holds. There are two main areas: The Wall of Holds, a 25 metre south facing wall with routes ranging from VDiff to VS. The Black Amphitheatre area offers a selection of multi-pitch routes up to 55 metres, ranging from VDiff to E2.

Approach notes

This area should be avoided during the nesting session. At present there is a large Raven nest on the ledge of Archangel, and at lest 3 Shag nest's on the wall of holds.
Approach on the coastal path from Coverack. Head south for about 3 km to the derelict coastguard lookout on Black Head. A shorter route is from the roadside car park at the Hamlet of Trewellis: follow the lane until it becomes a tarmacked farm road, then take a track which turns left and follow the field wall to a stile. A footpath leads to the coast path about a 1 km from the Head. From the derelict lookout, the path leads further onto the Head and down the north side of the crag to ledges at sea-level. The Black Amphitheatre Area can be seen to the right when facing south
If travelling by car, be aware that there is no access past the end of the tarmacked road as it is a private property. Find parking in the hamlet and be considerate as not to upset the local residents.

There is a large nest at the top of Archangel and at lest 2 Shag nest's on the wall of holds. Please avoid till the end of the nesting session.
Han Woolley - 28/Apr/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 White Russians VS 4c * 11
2 Rebel Yell E2 5b/5a 8
3 Romanis, Dyke, et al. VD 4a 17
4 Black Dyke
VD 10
5 Disputed Ground VS 4c 7
6 Spriggens Chimney VS 4c ** 8
7 Archangel/rebel Yell Combo HVS 5a ** 3
8 Archangel HVS 5a ** 11
Climb name Grade
9 Ukelele HVS 5b 4
10 Bouzouki VS 4c 4
11 Banjo S 4a 4
12 Cello D 4
13 Zither HVS 5b 3
14 Asap VS 5b 4
15 Imho VS 5a 4
16 Moggin S 4b 5
Climb name Grade
17 Meg HS 4b 4
18 Prince Igor D 4
19 The Stone Guest HS 4b 4
20 The Queen of Spades HS 4b 4
21 Mavra HS 4b 4
22 Black Jack *
HVS 5b *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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