Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 199m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. The crag has an atmosphere all of its own, ancient and wild, its only regular visitors being a herd of wild goats. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.

Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) and go straight up the hillside to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis) after about 15 minutes. The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.

For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag.

Both approaches take about 30 minutes.

The crag is divided into 8 separate areas described from left to right (north to south). The height varies from 10m to 20m.

Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name. The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 OCTOBER HS 4c *  
2 DOOM AND GLOOM E1 5b  
3 DOONSBURY VD  
4 THE NUTTER E2 6a  
5 CORNISH RAIDER S 1
6 PEREGRINE FALCOFF HS * 2
7 TRUE WEST E2 5b **  
8 SQUALL E3 6a 1
9 Bronco VS 4c ** 8
10 BATMAN LEAVES GOTHAM CITY HVS 5a  
11 The Durango Kid E1 5b ** 5
12 MAVERICK S  
13 MENTAL BLOCK VS 4c 1
14 An Mhear Fhada S 3c * 5
15 RYAN'S CRACK VS 4c * 2
16 Ryan's Groove HVS 5a * 2
17 HOWARD'S ROUTE E1 5c  
18 RIDDLEY WALKER VS 4c  
19 Coakley's hammer VD *** 9
20 Soft Option HS 4b * 5
21 Soft Option direct start HVS 5b 1
22 BURNET ROSE VS 4b * 3
23 WEST COAST COOLER HVS 5a *  
24 YELLOW SUBMARINE VS 4b  
25 Grace O'Malley E1 5b ** 6
26 Great Western E1 5c 2
27 LONE RANGER HVS 5a *  
28 GOLD FINGER HVS 5a  
29 Thriller HVS 5a  
30 SHAKEY FLAKES VS 4c 1
31 A Fossil In My Prime. HVS 5a ** 1
32 LIE DETECTOR VS 4c 1
33 Reef Encounter E4 6b ** 1
34 Billy Muggins E3 5c * 1
35 JCB D  
36 BLUESKIES HVS 5a  
37 Sloth D 1
38 DELICATESSEN S  
39 The Quiet Clam E5 6a ** 1
40 RIFFRAFF HVS *  
41 BLUEBIRD HVS 5a ** 1
42 TROUBLE CHILD HVS 5a  
43 Fossil Fuel E6 6b ** 1
44 HARD TACK E1 5c *  
45 SLI NA FIRINNE HVS 5a  
46 GOOD CRACK VS 4c *  
47 PRAMALAMADINGDONG E2 5c *  
48 THE NEW HEATHENS E3 5c *  
49 CROMWELL E3 5c  
50 HINTS AND ALLEGATIONS E3 6a *  
51 HY-BRASIL E1 5b ** 1
52 NEBRASKA E2 5c **  
53 FREELANCE VS 4c **  
54 DISTRUST THE STARS HVS 5a ** 1
55 DELIVERANCE E3 6a *  
56 UPLIFT HS 4c *  
57 Rain Stops Se
-
HS 4b 1
58 ABOUT TIME TOO VS 4c * 1
59 RAIN DANCE VS  
60 WOUNDED KNEE HVS 5a  
61 Land of the Free VS 4c *** 2
62 HOME OF THE BRAVE HVS 5a ** 1
63 EMIGRANT'S LEGACY S  
64 HIGH DUDGEON HVS 5a ** 1
65 FRESH FIELDS VS 4c **  
66 SQUATTING E2 6a  
67 TIGER'S TAIL VS 4c ** 2
68 TANTRUM E4 6b **  
69 LION'S MOUTH HVS 5a ** 2
70 EYE OF THE TIGER E1 5b **  
71 FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR HS 4a  
72 HERE COMES SUMMER VD  
73 LA na SCOLLAIB VD  
74 RAINBOW WARRIOR S  
75 LA na GAOITHE S  

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