Climbs 103
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 199m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

The long limestone escarpment of Murroughkilly faces west and runs north/south above the village of Fanore between Black Head lighthouse and the Khyber Pass road. The crag has an atmosphere all of its own, ancient and wild, its only regular visitors being a herd of wild goats. It can be a good alternative when Ailladie is affected by sea-spray, though it takes the full brunt of westerly winds itself. Given that it is an unfrequented mountain cliff care should be taken with the rock, particularly at the tops of routes. Most of the climbs follow corners and cracks and there is still much scope for new routes.

Access - For the left-hand (northern) end of the crag park at the Black Head lighthouse (limited parking) and go straight up the hillside to reach the old ruined fort (Cathair Dhún Irghuis) after about 15 minutes. The crag can be easily seen ahead and to the right at about 450m.

For the southern end park about 1km up the Khyber Pass road just beyond the pass itself. There is a gate on the left. From here cross the stream, passing some sheep pens, and head diagonally leftwards up towards the crag.

Both approaches take about 30 minutes.

The crag is divided into 8 separate areas described from left to right (north to south). The height varies from 10m to 20m.

Walk from the old fort to the junction of the stone walls and continue in the same line to reach the bay with the clean bulging buttress on the right which gives this area its name. The climbs are on the steep clean wall on the left which is cut by vertical cracks and bounded on the left by a short corner. Left of this the escarpment is broken and vegetated.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Doon Buttress
2 OCTOBER HS 4c *  
3 DOOM AND GLOOM E1 5b  
4 DOONSBURY VD  
  Really Far North Buttress
6 SCOILT CLEACHTADH S  
7 POM'S PARADISE HS 4a  
8 O'DONOGHOE'S CRACK VD  
9 DUNE RIDER VD  
  Far North Buttress
11 THE NUTTER E2 6a  
12 CORNISH RAIDER S 2
13 PEREGRINE FALCOFF HS * 3
14 TRUE WEST E2 5b **  
15 SQUALL E3 6a 1
16 Bronco VS 4c ** 9
17 BATMAN LEAVES GOTHAM CITY HVS 5a  
18 The Durango Kid E1 5b ** 5
19 MAVERICK S  
20 MENTAL BLOCK VS 4c 1
21 An Mhear Fhada S 3c * 7
22 RYAN'S CRACK VS 4c * 3
23 Ryan's Groove HVS 5a * 2
24 HOWARD'S ROUTE E1 5c  
25 RIDDLEY WALKER VS 4c  
26 Coakley's hammer VD *** 10
27 Soft Option HS 4b * 6
28 Soft Option direct start HVS 5b 1
29 BURNET ROSE VS 4b * 3
30 WEST COAST COOLER HVS 5a *  
31 YELLOW SUBMARINE VS 4b  
32 Grace O'Malley E1 5b ** 6
33 Great Western E1 5c 2
34 LONE RANGER HVS 5a *  
35 GOLD FINGER HVS 5a  
36 Thriller HVS 5a  
37 SHAKEY FLAKES VS 4c 1
Climb name Grade
  North Buttress
39 A Fossil In My Prime. HVS 5a ** 1
40 LIE DETECTOR VS 4c 2
41 Reef Encounter E4 6b ** 1
42 Billy Muggins E3 5c * 1
43 JCB D  
44 BLUESKIES HVS 5a  
45 Sloth D 1
46 DELICATESSEN S  
  North Central Buttress
48 The Quiet Clam E5 6a ** 1
49 RIFFRAFF HVS *  
50 BLUEBIRD HVS 5a ** 1
51 TROUBLE CHILD HVS 5a  
52 Fossil Fuel E6 6b ** 1
53 HARD TACK E1 5c *  
54 GOOD CRACK VS 4c *  
  Central Buttress
56 SLI NA FIRINNE HVS 5a  
57 PRAMALAMADINGDONG E2 5c *  
58 THE NEW HEATHENS E3 5c *  
59 CROMWELL E3 5c  
60 HINTS AND ALLEGATIONS E3 6a *  
61 HY-BRASIL E1 5b ** 1
62 NEBRASKA E2 5c **  
  South Central Buttress
64 FREELANCE VS 4c **  
  South Buttress
66 DISTRUST THE STARS HVS 5a ** 1
67 DELIVERANCE E3 6a *  
68 UPLIFT HS 4c *  
69 Rain Stops Se
-
HS 4b 2
70 ABOUT TIME TOO VS 4c * 1
71 RAIN DANCE VS  
72 WOUNDED KNEE HVS 5a  
73 Land of the Free VS 4c *** 3
74 HOME OF THE BRAVE HVS 5a ** 1
75 EMIGRANT'S LEGACY S  
Climb name Grade
  Far South Buttress
77 HIGH DUDGEON HVS 5a ** 1
78 FRESH FIELDS VS 4c ** 1
79 SQUATTING E2 6a  
80 TIGER'S TAIL VS 4c ** 2
81 TANTRUM E4 6b **  
82 LION'S MOUTH HVS 5a ** 2
83 EYE OF THE TIGER E1 5b **  
84 FLAKE RATTLE AND ROAR HS 4a  
  Afghan Walls
86 GO TELL THE MUJAHIDEEN HS 4b  
87 SEE THE YOUNG RUSSIANS, HIGH ON OUR GEAR S 3c  
88 DURAND LINE HS 4b  
89 THE SILK ROAD HS 4b  
90 BAKHTAR RADIO HS 4b  
91 FLAMING JEZAIL VS 4c  
92 KHYBER CRACK S  
93 KANDAHAR S  
94 INSURGENCY CRACK VS 4c  
95 MOAB HS 4b  
96 NORTHERN ALLIANCE VS 5a  
97 WAKHAN CORRIDOR HS  
98 RUSSIAN ROULETTE E1 5a 1
  Upper Tier
100 TWO TRICK PONY HS 4b  
101 STORMY DANIELS S  
102 STORM STRUCK VD  
103 MET EIREANN VD  
104 HERE COMES SUMMER VD *  
105 HERE COMES SUMMER Variation finish;THIS AIN'T SUMMER S  
106 LA na SCOLLAIB VD *  
107 RAINBOW WARRIOR S **  
108 LA na GAOITHE S  
109 CORA S 4a **  
110 WET EIREANN S  
111 SCATTERED OUTBREAKS OF SUNSHINE HS 4b  
112 RUSTY'S RAMP S  
113 SHAMROCK VIBES S  
114 ALLEZ STRASBOURG HVS 5a  

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