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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 26
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 31m a.s.l
Faces SE

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on crimps © mulletcocktail2000

Crag features

An excellent sport climbing venue for the steel fingered granite technician. Two different walls have been bolted these being the obvious overhanging back wall of the quarry below the descent and the not so obvious steep slab on the south side of the quarry (only one route to date). The rock is generally excellent granite if still a little crumbly under foot in places but this should improve with traffic. Being granite and never that steep the climbing tends to be technical and sustained with the overall quality of the climbing being quite remarkable for quarried rock. Unlike many other bolted quarries to date there has been little need for "additional quarrying" to provide the holds! Both walls face east south east and catch only the morning sun which can be an advantage in summer. The back wall does suffer from a persistent seep but only the start of The King is affected and this can usually be diverted to allow the holds to dry. The most favourable conditions are on fresh breezy aftenoons, it further bucks the  North East trend by ususlly being at its best in southerly winds. It's not effected by sea birds and can often be found in good condition in the summer as well as spring and autumn. It serves as a good fall back option when the coastal trad cliffs near by are damp or awash with sea spray.  Even in less than ideal conditions a work out can be had as the climbing tends to be on positive holds. It is also possible to climb on the back wall in light rain or showers.

Approach notes

From Aberdeen take the A90 to Peterhead. Just after Longhaven village 8 miles before Peterhead, turn right off the A90 onto a track with double locked gates. Park here in a new but very small car park. Follow the track up a slight hill and towards an old cottage and another gate. Keep on the track and follow it down hill where it bends left and leads to an old quarry storage area. Cross the fence at the back (East) of the storage area by an old tractor tyre and pick up a path which leads south east after 200m or so ver left (east) to gain the back of the quarry by a steep grass ramp which leads down to the floor of the quarry. The back wall is obvious on the left of the descent.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 No Gulls to Impress E1 5b 3
2 The Heighisit E3 6b  
  The Back Wall
4 Joker 6c+ * 31
5 Harley Quinn 7a * 9
6 Jester 7b * 20
7 Messiah 7c+ ** 21
8 New Messiah 8a ** 1
9 The Messing Link 8a+ ** 3
10 The King 7c+ *** 20
Climb name Grade
11 Caesar 7b+ ** 3
12 Dracula 8b **  
13 Dracula True Finish 8c **  
14 Cronus 8b **  
15 Lucifer 8b ** 2
16 Hades 8b+ ***  
17 Solomon 7b * 4
18 Road to Perdition 7c * 2
19 Sultan 7c ** 34
20 Rough Diamond 6a+ ** 19
Climb name Grade
21 Rough Diamond (trad) E1 5b 9
22 Diamond in the Rough 6c+ * 7
23 Faux Diamond 7a+  
  The Bridal Slab
25 Kingdom of Granite 7a+ * 4
26 D-B Arete
S 1
  The Bridal Cave
28 Here Come The Bride
E5 6b ** 1
29 Family Life
E3 5c * 2

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