Climbs 21
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 35m a.s.l
Faces NE

on crimps © mulletcocktail2000

Crag features

Several routes have now been bolted on two different walls these being the obvious overhanging back wall of the quarry below the descent and the not so obvious steep slab on the south side of the quarry (only one route to date). The rock is generally excellent granite if still a little crumbly under foot in places but this should improve with traffic. Being granite and never that steep the climbing tends to be technical and sustained with the overall quality of the climbing being quite remarkable for quarried rock. Unlike many other bolted quarries to date there has been little need for "additional quarrying" to provide the holds! Both walls face east and catch only the morning sun which can be an advantage in summer. The back wall does suffer from a persistent seep but only the start of The King is affected and this can usually be diverted to allow the holds to dry. The most favourable conditions are on fresh breezy mornings but a good work out can be had even in the worst harr as the climbing tends to be on positive holds. It is also possible to climb on the back wall in light rain or showers.

Approach notes

From Aberdeen take the A90 to Peterhead. Turn right off the A90 onto a track just after Longhaven village 8 miles before Pterehead. Follow the track to its end and a car park beside an old cottage. Follow a path past the cottage east then south in to the first Quarry works. Go right to the fence and pick up another path which leads east on to the headland of the Red Wall continue on this path until it turns and heads south along the rim of the Red Quarry. Half way along the back of the quarry a steep grass ramp leads down to the floor of the quarry. The back wall is obvious on the left of the descent

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Joker 6c+ * 21
2 Harley Quinn 7a * 7
3 Jester 7b * 20
4 Messiah 7c+ ** 21
5 The Messing Link 8a ** 2
6 The King 7c+ *** 18
7 Solomon 7b * 4
8 Sultan 7c ** 42
9 Diamond in the Rough 6c ** 4
10 Here Come The Bride
-
E5 6b ** 1
11 Family Life
-
E3 5c *  
12 Kingdom of Granite 7a+ ** 4
13 D-B Arete
-
S 1
14 The Heighisit
-
E3 6b  
15 Rough Diamond
-
E1 5b 7
16 No Gulls to Impress E1 5b 3
17 Dracula 8b **  
18 Lucifer 8b **  
19 Road to Perdition 7c * 1
20 Dracula True Finish 8c **  
21 Rough Diamond 6a * 5

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