Climbs 37
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 8m a.s.l
Faces all

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Mabley Green Boulder © MYSSAK

Crag features

This block is made of quarried Cornish granite. It sits in the middle of an open green space in a regeneration area of east London not far from the 2012 Olympics site.

Mabley Green is bounded on one side by the Eastway (the A12) and on the opposite side by a steep road going through Homerton. There are two main entrances: one on the Eastway/Victoria Park side, and one on the Homerton side.

The block isn't aligned with the major points of the compass, so routes are described as belonging to one of four faces:


Homerton Face or Easy Slab. The biggest area of all the faces: has entry-level footholds lower down including a massive shot-hole, visible from a distance.

Overhang: this means the obviously overhanging face with a square-cut chunk missing at ground level. It also has 2 x two-finger shot-holes at about 2 metres above ground level and a curved narrow ledge about 1 metre above the ground.

Victoria Park Face: an overhanging 'scoop' with two large shot-holes. Otherwise virtually featureless apart from some very marginal undercut crimps, a left-facing fingertip flake on the right hand side and a single positive side-pull high-up to the left.

Mantel Face: features a flake/ narrow mantel-shelf ledge which may collect sand.

Please can you respect these face-naming conventions when you suggest new problems.

Note that the Victoria Park Face is also overhanging, but the one described as Overhang is more steeply overhanging and has obviously more positive features.

Descent route: The easiest way down is via the Mantel Face, which features a reasonable ledge. The landing is soft but depending on your experience, a crash pad and a spotter may be an idea as the descent is more technical than the easier routes on the block.

The boulder at this location is half of an art work called 'Boulder', by John Frankland. The other half is situated in Shoreditch. These were installed in Autum 2008.

Approach notes

Mabley Street has a small section without parking restrctions. The main road through Homerton is mostly a Red Route. Nearest overground station: Homerton less than 1km away.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

The main overhang problems are rendered completely useless after landscaping by Hackney Council. The surrounding turf has been raised by many feet on the overhang face meaning the foot rail has been completely submerged and crucial footholds covered. Stretch arete problem is also affected on the Victoria park face same situation. The artist who commissioned and installed the boulders has been contacted. Petition here to sign to get landscaping reversed. https://www.ipetitions.com/petition/mabley-green-boulder-reverse-the-damage
davidmoy - 04/May/17
Mabley Green has been re-landscaped, involving a raising of the ground level on the east side of the boulder. Not sure how this effects the routes.
jobangles - 06/Sep/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
14 Guilty pleasure V9 * 1
15 Ollie's arete V5 6b *** 8
16 Digital masochist V6 1
17 Porter's Arete V4 6a *** 16
18 Lazy masochist V5 1
19 Ollie's wall V3 * 4
20 Progression V7 ** 1
21 Stretch arete V3 ** 5
22 Overhang 1 V4 6b ** 9
23 Overhang eliminate V7 ** 5
24 Overhang eliminate sit start V8+  
25 Eau naturelle V8 ** 1
26 Eau naturelle assis V9 ** 1
Climb name Grade
27 U-turn V5 ** 1
28 U-Mann V5 * 1
29 U-burn V7 ** 1
30 Rebel mann V5 * 1
31 Rebel turn V5 * 1
32 Rebel retreat V6 ** 1
33 Rebel legacy V8 *** 2
34 Rebellion uprising V8+ *** 2
35 Stretching rebel resources V8 *** 1
36 Banker's bonus V9 ** 1
37 Scorched earth policy V8+ ** 1

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