UKC

Climbs 162
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces NE

Nipper © Jemma McGuinness

Crag features

An excellent bouldering venue which is a must visit if in the area. The magnesium limestone offers steep finger exercises in a wooded valley. The 2012 guide has opened up the bouldering but access is still a sensitive issue and as always take your litter away.

Most of the grades are taken from the bouldering guide, some are said to be a little soft but they are not too far out so get on them and grade vote here so they can more calibrated any future guide for the area.

Approach notes

Adjacent to the A57 Sheffield to Worksop road 1km SE of South Anston. Ample parking available.

there used to be full route desciptions of maybe 40 or more of these routes on UKC years ago.. what happened to this info when the UKC site was updated? just lost?
nickcanute - 16/May/11
http://www.j31.co.uk/anstones.html Some pics
me again - 08/May/05
http://www.rotherham.gov.uk/graphics/Leisure/Countryside+and+Wildlife/_anston+stones+wood.htm quote" Please keep to the footpaths and note that rock climbing is not allowed anywhere in the wood." Bugger..been climbing there since I was 10.
stones - 08/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Woody's Rock
2 Unnamed 7a - Woody's f7A 100
3 Reformist f7B 2
4 Swampy V8+ 6
5 Swampy High Start f7A * 9
6 Vanilla Sky f8B ** 3
7 Trench Warfare
-
f6B 58
8 Grape Crusher f6C * 85
9 Dangerous Action Man Wrestling
-
f7C 23
10 Soul Crusher
-
f7C+ *** 18
11 Soul Crusher Sit Start
-
f8A 2
12 Wrestling with my Dangerous Soul f8A *** 13
13 Woody rock traverse f5+ 20
14 Woodys Rock Footless Traverse f6C 20
  Wave Area - Bullet roof
16 Colt f7A+ * 125
17 Magnum Eliminate f7C+ 11
18 Bullet f7C ** 51
19 Revolver f7C+ ** 7
20 Tech Nine f7B 10
21 Beretta f7A+ 162
22 Sawn Off f5+ 13
23 Beretta Extension
-
f7B 30
24 Glock * f7B+ * 1
  Wave Area - Dark Art Roof
26 Fine Art f7A+ * 141
27 Dark Art f8A ** 21
28 Beta Blocker f7A * 182
29 Black Tufa f7B 13
30 Reservation f7B * 62
31 Reservation blocker f7A+ ** 21
32 Central Line * f7B+  
33 Fine Beta f7C * 18
34 Fine Beta Reservation f7C+ 5
35 Dark Beta f8A ** 10
36 'Black Tufa' start to Reservation f7C 5
37 Dark Reservation
-
f8A+ *** 6
38 Black Crow f7C ** 29
39 Black Hoe f8A 4
40 White Light f8A ** 4
41 White Light Direct
-
f8A+ *** 1
42 Fire in the Rain f8B ** 1
43 Black Art f7C * 3
44 Reserved Art *
-
f7B 7
45 Light Flight * f7A 1
46 No Reservations * none 2
  Wave Area - Wave Wall
48 Woody's Wall Left f3 10
49 Wave Wall Corner
-
f5 117
50 Crimps Wall f6C 72
51 The Tufa f6B+ 111
52 The Wave
-
f5+ *** 64
53 The Wave Direct
-
f6B 77
54 Wave Right Hand
-
f6B+ 41
55 Little big pocket
-
f6B 102
56 Blue Circles f7A 140
57 No Circles f6C 99
58 The Shield
-
f6A+ 82
59 Shallow f6C+ 47
Climb name Grade
60 The End f6C 66
61 The End Sit Start f6C+ 23
62 Wave Wall Traverse V6 * 3
  Wave Area - Ebola Buttress
64 Ebola Buttress Left Wall
-
f5 86
65 Ebola Buttress Centre Wall
-
f5 99
66 Ebola Buttress Right Wall
-
f5 88
67 The Undercut f6B 131
68 The Vision f7C * 8
69 Monster f7C * 16
70 Blind Bat f7A+ 201
71 Blind Bat Stand Start f6A+ * 38
72 Blind bat shuffle f7B 10
73 Last Stand f7A * 202
74 The Phoenix f7C * 12
75 Alpha f7B ** 81
76 Resonate f7C *** 12
77 Ebola f7C *** 18
78 The Overlooked V8+ 1
79 Unnamed 6B - Ebola Buttress f6B 8
80 The Arete f5 18
81 Twenty Four Point Nine f7A+ ** 50
82 Quarantine f8A 13
83 Monster-Quarantine link f7C+ * 6
84 The Anston Punter f2 6
85 Fawks f7B * 1
86 The Last Phoenix f7A * 7
87 Outbreak f7B ** 3
88 Alpha Stand Start * f6B+ 3
  Rocky Valley Roof
90 Out of the Darkness f6C 8
91 Into the Light
-
f7C+ 3
92 Into the Light Direct
-
f8A 1
  Hidden Wall
94 Eliminate Wall f5+ 23
95 Crack f6A+ 28
96 Wall f6C 35
97 Dirty Harry f7B * 12
98 Jack the Nipper
-
f7B+ *** 20
99 Fire Wall f6B+ 18
100 Freemason
-
f7C 12
101 Screaming Dream
-
f6C+ 23
102 Everything Before
-
f7C 2
  Dukes Wall
104 The Arete f6A 7
105 The Tufa
-
f7A+ 1
106 Filthy Duke f7C *** 8
107 Red Duke f7C ** 1
108 Dark Lady f7A 18
109 Laughing Jack f6A 3
110 Old King Cole f6B * 4
111 John Wayne f5+ 3
112 The Duke f6A 4
113 The Gunfighter f7A+ 1
114 Faster Faster f5 2
115 Filthy Red * V8+ ** 1
116 Queen of Heart * f6B 1
117 Grand Old Duke of York * f6C  
Climb name Grade
  Left of Apprentice Wall
119 A Trades Man.s Clip
-
f6A 3
120 Long Stand
-
f5+ 3
121 Sparks for the Grinder
-
f5+ 2
122 Left-Handed Screwdriver
-
f6A 3
  Apprentice Wall area
124 Apprentice Prow f7A+ ** 90
125 Sir Alan f7A+ * 12
126 Spider Crab Blues f7B * 6
127 Young Grasshopper f7B+ * 5
128 Apprentice Wall f6C *** 122
129 The Rookie
-
f7A+ 41
130 The cookie * f7A+ ** 5
131 John's Arete
-
f6B+ 36
132 Hemmed In f7A 5
133 Skirting Board Ladder
-
f6A 46
134 Spirit Level Bubbles
-
f6B 43
135 Elbow Grease
-
f6B 45
136 Tartan Paint
-
f6B 39
137 Bucket Of Steam
-
f5+ 34
138 Crackdown
-
f5 21
139 Takashi Sit Start f7A+ 14
140 Whizz Kid Sit Start f7B+ ** 4
141 Wizz Kid Stand Start f7A+ 6
142 The Crack f6C 10
143 Pockets problem
-
f7A * 28
144 Apprentice ArĂȘte * f6C 5
  Through Post
146 Left Arete
-
f6A+ 1
147 Red Streak
-
f6B+ 1
148 The Assassin
-
f7C  
149 The Crack Left Hand
-
f6A 3
150 The Crack Right Hand
-
f5+ 2
151 The Wall
-
f7A 2
152 Mean Streak
-
f7B 1
153 Right Arete
-
f6A 3
  Turnpost
155 Turnpost Buttress Left Wall f5+ 5
156 The Turnpost
-
f6C * 7
157 Turnpost Buttress The Prow f6A 5
158 Turnpost Buttress Right Wall f5+ 5
  Frodo
160 Rivendell f6C+ 59
161 Rohan f6B 80
162 Saruman f7A 53
163 Frodo f7B+ ** 26
164 Nazgul Left Hand f7B 47
165 The Nazgul Right Hand f7B ** 7
166 The Ent f6B+ ** 12
167 Sam Wise Left f6C * 4
168 Samwise f6B+ 38
169 There and Back Again
-
f7A+ 5
170 Back and there again * f7A+ 1
171 Vampire prow * f5 * 1
172 Aragorn f7C+ **  
  Unknown Routes
174 Dead Mans Drop. M 1
175 Verti Slab V0+ *** 2
176 White Traverse f6B+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Tophe and Sam Lawson