Climbs 168
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 111m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Nipper © Jemma McGuinness

Crag features

An excellent bouldering venue which is a must visit if in the area. The magnesium limestone offers steep finger exercises in a wooded valley. The 2012 guide has opened up the bouldering but access is still a sensitive issue and as always take your litter away.

Most of the grades are taken from the bouldering guide, some are said to be a little soft but they are not too far out so get on them and grade vote here so they can more calibrated any future guide for the area.

Approach notes

Adjacent to the A57 Sheffield to Worksop road 1km SE of South Anston. Ample parking available.

there used to be full route desciptions of maybe 40 or more of these routes on UKC years ago.. what happened to this info when the UKC site was updated? just lost?
nickcanute - 16/May/11
http://www.j31.co.uk/anstones.html Some pics
me again - 08/May/05
http://www.rotherham.gov.uk/graphics/Leisure/Countryside+and+Wildlife/_anston+stones+wood.htm quote" Please keep to the footpaths and note that rock climbing is not allowed anywhere in the wood." Bugger..been climbing there since I was 10.
stones - 08/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Woody's Rock
2 Unnamed 7a - Woody's f7A 128
3 Reformist f7B 2
4 Swampy V8+ 7
5 Swampy High Start f7A * 14
6 Vanilla Sky f8B ** 3
7 Trench Warfare
-
f6B 78
8 Grape Crusher f6C * 108
9 Dangerous Action Man Wrestling
-
f7B+ 28
10 Soul Crusher
-
f7C+ *** 22
11 Soul Crusher Sit Start
-
f8A 2
12 Wrestling with my Dangerous Soul f8A *** 15
13 Woody rock traverse f5+ 28
14 Woodys Rock Footless Traverse f6C 26
  Wave Area - Bullet roof
16 Colt f7A+ * 158
17 Magnum Eliminate f7C+ 15
18 Bullet f7C ** 64
19 Revolver f7C+ ** 7
20 Tech Nine f7B 15
21 Beretta f7A+ 199
22 Sawn Off f5+ 17
23 Beretta Extension
-
f7B 36
24 Glock extension f7B+ 1
25 Glock f7B * 6
  Wave Area - Dark Art Roof
27 Fine Art f7A+ * 167
28 Dark Art f8A ** 26
29 Beta Blocker f7A * 229
30 Black Tufa f7B 19
31 Reservation f7B * 78
32 Reservation blocker f7A+ ** 45
33 Central Line * f7B+  
34 Fine Beta f7C * 28
35 Fine Beta Reservation f7C+ 7
36 Dark Beta f8A ** 14
37 'Black Tufa' start to Reservation f7C 7
38 Dark Reservation
-
f8A+ *** 8
39 Black Crow f7C ** 29
40 Black Hoe f8A 8
41 White Light f8A ** 6
42 White Light Direct
-
f8A+ *** 1
43 Fire in the Rain f8B ** 1
44 Black Art f7C * 3
45 Reserved Art
-
f7B 7
46 Light Flight * f7A 3
47 No Reservation Blocker * f7A+ 1
48 Black crow (post break) f8A ** 4
49 No Reservations * none 4
  Wave Area - Wave Wall
51 Woody's Wall Left f3 12
52 Wave Wall Corner
-
f5 152
53 Crimps Wall f6C 99
54 The Tufa f6B+ 155
55 The Wave
-
f5+ *** 91
56 The Wave Direct
-
f6B 101
57 Wave Right Hand
-
f6B+ 54
58 Little big pocket
-
f6B 134
59 Blue Circles f7A 195
60 No Circles f6C 123
61 The Shield
-
f6A+ 110
Climb name Grade
62 Shallow f6C+ 71
63 The End f6C 85
64 The End Sit Start f6C+ 28
65 Wave Wall Traverse V6 * 3
66 Pandemic f8A+ 1
  Wave Area - Ebola Buttress
68 Ebola Buttress Left Wall
-
f5 135
69 Ebola Buttress Centre Wall
-
f5 144
70 Ebola Buttress Right Wall
-
f5 127
71 The Undercut f6B 186
72 The Vision f7C * 13
73 Monster f7C * 22
74 Blind Bat f7A+ 238
75 Blind Bat Stand Start f6A+ * 51
76 Blind bat shuffle f7B 16
77 Last Stand f7A * 246
78 The Phoenix f7B * 17
79 Alpha f7B ** 111
80 Resonate f7C *** 19
81 Ebola f7C *** 30
82 The Overlooked V8+ 1
83 Unnamed 6B - Ebola Buttress f6B 10
84 The Arete f5 21
85 Twenty Four Point Nine f7A+ ** 62
86 Quarantine f8A 17
87 Monster-Quarantine link f7C+ * 7
88 The Anston Punter f2 6
89 Fawks f7B * 3
90 The Last Phoenix f7A * 11
91 Outbreak f7B ** 9
92 Alpha Stand Start f6B+ 17
  Rocky Valley Roof
94 Out of the Darkness f6C 9
95 Into the Light
-
f7C+ 3
96 Into the Light Direct
-
f8A 1
  Hidden Wall
98 Eliminate Wall f5+ 27
99 Crack f6A+ 33
100 Wall f6C 51
101 Dirty Harry f7B * 16
102 Jack the Nipper
-
f7B+ *** 26
103 Fire Wall f6B+ 25
104 Freemason
-
f7C 16
105 Screaming Dream
-
f6C+ 31
106 Everything Before
-
f7C 3
  Dukes Wall
108 The Arete f6A 7
109 The Tufa
-
f7A+ 1
110 Filthy Duke f7C *** 8
111 Red Duke f7C ** 1
112 Dark Lady f7A 19
113 Laughing Jack f6A 4
114 Old King Cole f6B * 5
115 John Wayne f5+ 3
116 The Duke f6A 4
117 The Gunfighter f7A+ 1
118 Faster Faster f5 2
119 Filthy Red V8+ ** 1
120 Queen of Heart * f6B 3
121 Grand Old Duke of York * f6C  
Climb name Grade
  Left of Apprentice Wall
123 A Trades Man.s Clip
-
f6A 3
124 Long Stand
-
f5+ 3
125 Sparks for the Grinder
-
f5+ 2
126 Left-Handed Screwdriver
-
f6A 3
  Apprentice Wall area
128 Apprentice Prow f7A+ ** 109
129 Sir Alan f7A+ * 14
130 Spider Crab Blues f7B * 8
131 Young Grasshopper f7B+ * 5
132 Apprentice Wall f6C *** 150
133 The Rookie
-
f7A+ 56
134 The cookie f7A+ ** 11
135 John's Arete
-
f6B+ 49
136 Hemmed In f7A 6
137 Skirting Board Ladder
-
f6A 56
138 Spirit Level Bubbles
-
f6B 54
139 Elbow Grease
-
f6B 56
140 Tartan Paint
-
f6B 49
141 Bucket Of Steam
-
f5+ 46
142 Crackdown
-
f5 22
143 Takashi Sit Start f7A+ 19
144 Whizz Kid Sit Start f7B+ ** 4
145 Wizz Kid Stand Start f7A+ 7
146 The Crack f6C 10
147 Pockets problem
-
f7A * 31
148 Apprentice ArĂȘte * f6C 7
149 The Padawan f7A * 1
150 The Wookie * f7A+ * 7
  Through Post
152 Left Arete
-
f6A+ 1
153 Red Streak
-
f6B+ 1
154 The Assassin
-
f7C  
155 The Crack Left Hand
-
f6A 3
156 The Crack Right Hand
-
f5+ 2
157 The Wall
-
f7A 2
158 Mean Streak
-
f7B 1
159 Right Arete
-
f6A 3
  Turnpost
161 Turnpost Buttress Left Wall f5+ 5
162 The Turnpost
-
f6C * 7
163 Turnpost Buttress The Prow f6A 5
164 Turnpost Buttress Right Wall f5+ 5
  Frodo
166 Rivendell f6C+ 74
167 Rohan f6B 102
168 Saruman f7A 77
169 Frodo f7B+ ** 27
170 Nazgul Left Hand f7B 57
171 The Nazgul Right Hand f7B ** 8
172 The Ent f6B+ ** 13
173 Sam Wise Left f6C * 4
174 Samwise f6B+ 48
175 There and Back Again
-
f7A+ 6
176 Back and there again f7A+ 2
177 Vampire prow f5 * 1
178 Aragorn f7C+ **  
  Unknown Routes
180 Dead Mans Drop. M 1
181 Verti Slab V0+ *** 2
182 White Traverse f6B+ 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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