Climbs 30
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces NW

Crag features

If seventh grade sport climbing is your game you'll love it here, but give it until May to dry out and take a brush. Steep, overhanging sport routes up to 20m long on good rock which stays dry in the rain. Best routes are Much Monkey Magic (7a), The Main Motor Mile (7a+), Blazed But Amazed (7b+) and Laughing At the Rain (7c). The two trad routes have gone to grass. This Crag is called Craig-Y-Biceps in the 2012 Peak limestone Book, Page 138-9. part of Staden Quarry!

Topo here

Approach notes

Park as for Staden Main Quarry then walk back down the road (2 min). DO NOT PARK in the passing places below the crag.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Craig-y-Biceps
2 Suck yer Thumb 6b  
3 Held Her Head 6b 3
4 She didna Ken 6b+ 6
5 J.L.N.O.E 7b+ * 1
6 Much Monkey Magic 7a ** 28
7 Otto di Catania 7a+ * 4
8 Blazed but Amazed 7b+ * 1
9 Meandering Peace Meal E5 6b  
10 The Philandering Sons of Magic Women 7a * 3
11 A Wild Man from Way Back When 7a+ * 3
12 Duelling Biceps 7a+ * 13
13 A Woman in Wellingtons 7b 2
14 Wet Yer Whistle 7b+ * 1
15 The Main Motor Mile 7a+ ** 37
16 Pingham's Route 7c+ **  
17 Pinging in the Rain 7c+ **  
18 Laughing in the Rain 7c ** 19
19 Mesmerized 7a+ * 15
20 You Know UFOs 7a+ *  
21 E.T. 7b+ *  
22 Euphoric 7a  
23 Pneumatic 6c+ 1
24 Ecstatic 6b 2
25 Fantastic 6b 2
26 Traumatic 6b+ 5
27 Check Out 6a * 11
28 New Nomad 6b+ 3
29 Napped a Nod 6a+  
30 Burning Rubber
-
E3 5c  
31 Phaseout
-
E1 5b  

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