UKC

Climbs 58
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 229m a.s.l
Faces N

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Andi Turner executes the top crux of Pair O' Genes (direct). © Jon Read

Crag features

Harston Rock is the Upper Churnet's piece de resistance, offering a handful of very fine routes on good rock with an imposing position above a beautiful and heavily wooded valley floor. The open nature lends itself to cleanliness not seen on the neighbouring buttresses, and its inspiring steepness has caused it to be home to the area's two hardest climbs.

The small bluffs littered along the rim of the valley are currently in a very poor state and the climbs within the Devil's Rock buttresses are best avoided.

Approach notes

Approach Whiston from on the A52 from Froghall (from the West). Park in the small layby on the outskirts of Whiston - just before the 40mph and 'Whiston' signs. Note the layby is very pot-holed so take care if not in a 4x4. Walk back down the hill to the sharp bend with a massive stone wall, and follow a farm track to its end at a farmhouse.

(Take care on the road: there's no footpath and the road has sharp bends. There is an alternative - from the layby go up the hill towards Whiston, 200m to the 90 degree left turn, and then another 130m to a path / driveway on the left - long straight drive / path to a house then onwards to a set of steps down, which then reaches the farm track where it meets the A52 by the massive stone wall. Turn right up to the farmhouse.)

At the back of the farmhouse there's a very rickety style - cross it and 50m beyond the farm, the path rises to a ridge and there's a footpath sign showing a crossroads. Go straight crossing the ridge and you first pass Devils Rock (little boulder) on the right - then first buttress is 30m above the ridge line. The rest of the buttresses are strung along the ridge from here. Best to ignore all these and continue along the main track to Harston Rock, 400m further on, where it can be seen 30m up on the right.

An alternative approach is from the large carpark at Froghall Wharf and follow the Staffordshire Moorlands Walk until the crag looms high above the hillside, maybe 2 mins longer if you're not distracted by ice creams.

No Access Issues

Staffordshire Wildlife Trust has an interest in the adjacent area and climbers are asked to respect the site notices regarding footpaths etc.

Been on a scouting trip today. Mainly over grown, green and dodgy. If you’re looking for easier grades this is not the place. One nice clean pinnacle but had to fight my way to it.
FiBowyer - 04/Jul/20
A fantastic chunk of perfect gritstone buried deep in the woodland behind Whiston in the Churnet Valley. Although occasionally green, it's free standing nature and magical surroundings tend to keep it in top-nick. Best visited in early spring or late autumn when the rock will be cleanest the temperatures most bearable and hopefully, the midges all dead!
andi turner - 08/Jun/06
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