Climbs 139
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

View Stats

Dave on his own 'Lexi Arete' at Hepburn. © Sean Bell

Crag features

A range of boulder problems though the grades, from easy circuits to classic testpieces, all on grippy rock with an excellent outlook. Often overlooked, a good alternative to Bowden and Kyloe.

Approach notes

Main Area - Follow the main track past the gate and after a few meters take a left up a steep path. Cross a stile at the top and the boulders are visible on your right.

Berthele's Stone - Follow main track for 10 mins and take the left fork at the bronze age grave then continue for around 50m. Just before the track begins to descend, turn left into a very easy to miss path through the young trees, the first few meters are boggy but the path soon improvesleading you up tothe boulder in about 5mins.

Some lovely person has cleared up the landing area by A Northern Soul. Now a less sketchy landing.
klimber - 10/Apr/17
Took a walk along to Bertheles Rock today and like Steve said below there's a wind blown tree on Lexi Arete and quite a few more quite close in landing zones. It's also quite dirty at the minute! If only I'd read the comment below first I could have taken a saw :( One to clean up in the winter I think! It's not really worth the walk to at the minute unless you're planning on spending time cleaning first, just a heads up!
Peace89 - 24/Aug/15
Big wind blown tree now lying on Lexi arÍte. Will take a public spirited individual with a chainsaw to rectify.
Stevie989 - 27/Jan/15
Here is a google map of the approach to Hepburn Woods South where you might find a Gruffalo https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@55.5112895,-1.8830234,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!6m1!1sz8BuRKnhxM3M.kfsDmMYeYyOo
Beardyman - 24/Oct/14
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=208818074682494943537.0004b5e6c513f7b48934f&msa=0&ll=55.510919,-1.882224&spn=0.003445,0.010568 This is a map how to get to Berthele's Stone
Beardyman - 11/Jun/13
Theives do operate in the area. Some cNut tried to jimmy the lock with a screwdriver while we were there on a busy saturday. make sure not to leave anything in the car!
Keith-Getoutadventures - 01/Aug/11
As good as anywhere in the county for 6's and low 7's.
Andy Moles - 17/May/11
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Picnic Area
2 Matterhorn Arete
-
f6A ** 31
3 Stunning Scoop
-
f4 * 30
4 Faint Scoop
-
f6A 11
5 The Keel
-
f6A * 19
6 Keel Traverse
-
f6B  
7 The Prow f6C ** 45
8 The Wall
-
f6B 10
9 The Crack
-
f7A+ 3
10 Crack and Arete f6A 19
11 Arete Only
-
f6C 24
12 The Wall 2 f6C 7
13 Crack Problem
-
f5+ 1
14 Photo Opportunity Arete
-
f5 * 132
15 Photo Opportunity Wall
-
f6B ** 46
16 Orthopaedia
-
f7A+ 7
17 BUTT f7C+ *  
18 IF f7B ** 61
19 Rheumatology f7A * 167
20 Orthapaedic Arete
-
f6B 1
21 Trauma Arete
-
f6A 4
22 Slab Two
-
f5 30
23 Slab One
-
f4+ 44
24 The Side Wall
-
f7C 7
25 Arete
-
f6A 142
26 Shallow Groove Variation f5+ 46
27 Shallow Groove
-
f5+ 107
28 The Traverse
-
f5+ 29
29 The Wall (Warm Up Area)
-
f5 87
30 Short Crack
-
f3 153
31 Long Crack
-
f3 176
32 Hard f6B 188
33 The Flake
-
f3 137
34 The Rounded Arete
-
f4 59
35 The Ramped Arete
-
f4 108
36 The Tricky Wall
-
f4+ 73
37 Last Innings Stand f3 7
38 Fine Arete
-
f6B 186
39 Popular Wall
-
f6C 78
40 Popular Wall RH f5 29
41 High Level Traverse
-
f6A 8
42 Low Level Traverse
-
f6A 1
43 North Face
-
f6A 3
44 Another Arete
-
f6B+ 26
45 Another Flake
-
f6C 73
46 Another Flake SS
-
f7A 2
47 Smooth Operation
-
f6A+ 6
48 Sandy Arete
-
f5+ 10
49 Treeline Traverse f7A+  
Climb name Grade
50 Lip Problem
-
f6C 24
51 Arete Problem
-
f6A 51
52 South Face
-
f5+ 18
53 The Wanderer
-
f5  
54 Roof Problem LH
-
f6B 59
55 Absolute Power
-
f7B  
56 Roof Problem RH
-
f6B 58
57 Crushing Chest Wound * V5  
58 The Bludgeoning * V5+  
59 Blunt Force Truma * V5+  
  Hepburn Wood
61 Dingly Dell
-
f4 11
62 Nicely out of Tune
-
f4 13
63 Life Long
-
f5+ 17
64 Long Haul
-
f6A 15
65 Flake Wall
-
f5+ 2
66 Underside
-
f6A 5
67 Undercut Arete
-
f6B 5
68 Undercut Arete SS
-
f7A 2
69 Undermine
-
f4+ 10
70 Chossamossity f7A 1
71 PreperationH SS
-
f8A *** 2
72 PreparationH f7C+ *** 17
73 A Northern Soul f7A+ *** 164
74 The Governor f7C ** 5
75 On the Small Side
-
f4+ 42
76 Substantial
-
f5 38
77 The Smallest
-
f5 27
78 Trivial Pursuit f7B+ ** 5
79 Trivial Pursuit Deluxe f8A+ *  
80 North Shore f7C+ **  
81 Quarter Sawn f7B+ * 1
82 Titanic Crack f5 26
83 Titanic Flutes f5+ ** 19
84 Titanic Arete f7A *** 105
85 Titanic Arete SS f7A+ * 21
86 Iceberg f7A+ *** 31
87 Ice Cube f5 ** 5
88 Coffee and Commitment f6A * 2
  Main crag
90 Long Lost E5 5c **  
91 Mis-spent E4 6a **  
92 Jesus Christ Pose E6 6a ***  
  Berthele's Stone
94 Potty Training (LH finish) f6B 15
95 Potty Training Direct f6C ** 5
96 Potty Training f6B+ ** 15
97 Commando f7A *** 27
98 Master Of Stone f8B **  
Climb name Grade
99 Daze of the Weak f7C *** 22
100 Lexi Arete f6B+ ** 18
101 Big Girl Daddy Pants f6A * 7
102 Fanny Spanked LH f6A 9
103 Fanny Spanked RH f6A+ * 8
104 Squeeze One Out f6B ** 4
105 Harpsichord f6C+ ** 3
106 Frog Rape Atete * V7 ** 3
  Green Wing
108 Warm Up Traverse
-
f6B  
109 Harder Traverse
-
f6C  
110 Stepping Out
-
f6A  
111 Jumble Sale
-
f6C  
112 Walk in the Jumble
-
f6C  
113 Sadie's Traverse
-
f7A  
114 Thin Crack Start
-
f7A  
115 Corner Problem
-
f7A  
116 Obvious Arete
-
f5 1
117 Nameless Arete
-
f4  
118 Hidden Classic
-
f7A  
  The Plateau
120 Hanging Corner
-
f5+  
121 Blunt Arete One
-
f6C  
122 Blunt Arete Two
-
f6C 1
123 Trough Traverse
-
f6C 1
124 Cleft Traverse
-
f5+ 1
125 Left Block Traverse
-
f6A 5
126 Middle Block Traverse
-
f6A 4
127 Trainer Traverse
-
f4 3
128 LH Problem
-
f5 1
129 Centre Problem
-
f5+  
130 The Bulge
-
f6A 2
131 The Crack (Last Block)
-
f6A  
132 Last Traverse
-
f6B 2
  HEPBURN WOODS SOUTH
134 The Gruffalo f7C+ *** 7
135 Bens Prow f6C **  
136 Jimmy Nae Pals f6B+ * 4
137 Nice f6C 2
138 The Peculiar Block *
-
f6B+ 1
139 Teddy Boy *
-
f6A 1
140 Blue Suede Shoes *
-
f6B+ 1
141 The Flakes *
-
f6C 1
  The Rift
143 Mao Tse Lunge f7A+ 4
144 Worr Horse Eliminate f7C+ 1
145 The Hammer and Sickle f8A **  
146 Yellow line f7A+ * 3
147 Burma road f2 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Volunteer to moderate Hepburn
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]