Climbs 128
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Dave on his own 'Lexi Arete' at Hepburn. © Sean Bell

Crag features

A range of boulder problems though the grades, from easy circuits to classic testpieces, all on grippy rock with an excellent outlook. Often overlooked, a good alternative to Bowden and Kyloe.

Approach notes

Main Area - Follow the main track past the gate and after a few meters take a left up a steep path. Cross a stile at the top and the boulders are visible on your right.

Berthele's Stone - Follow main track for 10 mins and take the left fork at the bronze age grave then continue for around 50m. Just before the track begins to descend, turn left into a very easy to miss path through the young trees, the first few meters are boggy but the path soon improvesleading you up tothe boulder in about 5mins.

Some lovely person has cleared up the landing area by A Northern Soul. Now a less sketchy landing.
klimber - 10/Apr/17
Took a walk along to Bertheles Rock today and like Steve said below there's a wind blown tree on Lexi Arete and quite a few more quite close in landing zones. It's also quite dirty at the minute! If only I'd read the comment below first I could have taken a saw :( One to clean up in the winter I think! It's not really worth the walk to at the minute unless you're planning on spending time cleaning first, just a heads up!
Peace89 - 24/Aug/15
Big wind blown tree now lying on Lexi arÍte. Will take a public spirited individual with a chainsaw to rectify.
Stevie989 - 27/Jan/15
Here is a google map of the approach to Hepburn Woods South where you might find a Gruffalo https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@55.5112895,-1.8830234,15z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m2!6m1!1sz8BuRKnhxM3M.kfsDmMYeYyOo
Beardyman - 24/Oct/14
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=208818074682494943537.0004b5e6c513f7b48934f&msa=0&ll=55.510919,-1.882224&spn=0.003445,0.010568 This is a map how to get to Berthele's Stone
Beardyman - 11/Jun/13
Theives do operate in the area. Some cNut tried to jimmy the lock with a screwdriver while we were there on a busy saturday. make sure not to leave anything in the car!
sneaks - 01/Aug/11
As good as anywhere in the county for 6's and low 7's.
Andy Moles - 17/May/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Picnic Area
2 Matterhorn Arete
-
f6A ** 18
3 Stunning Scoop
-
f4 * 21
4 Faint Scoop
-
f6A 8
5 The Keel
-
f6A * 12
6 Keel Traverse
-
f6B  
7 The Prow f6C ** 41
8 The Wall
-
f6B 8
9 The Crack
-
f7A+ 3
10 Crack and Arete f6A 17
11 Arete Only
-
f6C 20
12 The Wall 2 f6C 6
13 Crack Problem
-
f5+  
14 Photo Opportunity Arete
-
f5 * 91
15 Photo Opportunity Wall
-
f6B ** 36
16 Orthopaedia
-
f7A+ 3
17 BUTT f7C+ *  
18 IF f7B ** 46
19 Rheumatology f7A * 131
20 Orthapaedic Arete
-
f6B  
21 Trauma Arete
-
f6A 3
22 Slab Two
-
f5 24
23 Slab One
-
f4+ 35
24 The Side Wall
-
f7C 6
25 Arete
-
f6A 120
26 Shallow Groove Variation f5+ 39
27 Shallow Groove
-
f5+ 82
28 The Traverse
-
f5+ 22
29 The Wall (Warm Up Area)
-
f5 67
30 Short Crack
-
f3 116
31 Long Crack
-
f3 138
32 Hard f6B 142
33 The Flake
-
f3 110
34 The Rounded Arete
-
f4 45
35 The Ramped Arete
-
f4 86
36 The Tricky Wall
-
f4+ 56
37 Last Innings Stand f3 4
38 Fine Arete
-
f6B 151
39 Popular Wall
-
f6C 55
40 Popular Wall RH f5 20
41 High Level Traverse
-
f6A 7
42 Low Level Traverse
-
f6A 1
43 North Face
-
f6A 3
44 Another Arete
-
f6B+ 23
45 Another Flake
-
f6C 58
46 Another Flake SS
-
f7A 1
47 Smooth Operation
-
f6A+ 6
48 Sandy Arete
-
f5+ 5
49 Treeline Traverse f7A+  
50 Lip Problem
-
f6C 22
51 Arete Problem
-
f6A 42
52 South Face
-
f5+ 16
53 The Wanderer
-
f5  
54 Roof Problem LH
-
f6B 52
55 Absolute Power
-
f7B  
56 Roof Problem RH
-
f6B 52
  Hepburn Wood
58 Dingly Dell
-
f4 9
59 Nicely out of Tune
-
f4 10
60 Life Long
-
f5+ 14
61 Long Haul
-
f6A 10
62 Flake Wall
-
f5+  
63 Underside
-
f6A 5
64 Undercut Arete
-
f6B 3
65 Undercut Arete SS
-
f7A 1
66 Undermine
-
f4+ 9
67 Chossamossity f7A  
68 PreperationH SS
-
f8A ***  
69 PreparationH f7C+ *** 25
70 A Northern Soul f7A+ *** 155
71 The Governor f7C ** 1
72 On the Small Side
-
f4+ 25
73 Substantial
-
f5 21
74 The Smallest
-
f5 15
75 Trivial Pursuit f7B+ ** 2
76 Trivial Pursuit Deluxe f8A+ *  
77 North Shore f7C+ **  
78 Quarter Sawn f7B+ * 1
79 Titanic Crack f5 21
80 Titanic Flutes f5+ ** 15
81 Titanic Arete f7A *** 85
82 Titanic Arete SS f7A+ * 18
83 Iceberg f7A+ *** 27
84 Ice Cube f5 ** 5
  Main crag
86 Long Lost E5 5c **  
87 Mis-spent E4 6a **  
88 Jesus Christ Pose E6 6a ***  
  Berthele's Stone
90 Potty Training (LH finish) f6B 9
91 Potty Training Direct f6C ** 1
92 Potty Training f6B+ ** 10
93 Commando f7A *** 12
94 Daze of the Weak f7C *** 10
95 Lexi Arete f6B+ ** 8
96 Big Girl Daddy Pants f6A * 4
97 Fanny Spanked LH f6A 3
98 Fanny Spanked RH f6A+ * 3
99 Squeeze One Out f6B ** 3
100 Harpsichord f6C+ ** 2
  Green Wing
102 Warm Up Traverse
-
f6B  
103 Harder Traverse
-
f6C  
104 Stepping Out
-
f6A  
105 Jumble Sale
-
f6C  
106 Walk in the Jumble
-
f6C  
107 Sadie's Traverse
-
f7A  
108 Thin Crack Start
-
f7A  
109 Corner Problem
-
f7A  
110 Obvious Arete
-
f5 1
111 Nameless Arete
-
f4  
112 Hidden Classic
-
f7A  
  The Plateau
114 Hanging Corner
-
f5+  
115 Blunt Arete One
-
f6C  
116 Blunt Arete Two
-
f6C 1
117 Trough Traverse
-
f6C 1
118 Cleft Traverse
-
f5+ 1
119 Left Block Traverse
-
f6A 2
120 Middle Block Traverse
-
f6A 2
121 Trainer Traverse
-
f4 1
122 LH Problem
-
f5 1
123 Centre Problem
-
f5+  
124 The Bulge
-
f6A 2
125 The Crack (Last Block)
-
f6A  
126 Last Traverse
-
f6B 1
  HEPBURN WOODS SOUTH
128 The Gruffalo f7C+ *** 5
129 Bens Prow f6C **  
130 Jimmy Nae Pals f6B+ * 1
131 Nice f6C 1
  The Rift
133 Mao Tse Lunge f7A+ 1
134 Worr Horse Eliminate f7C+ 1
135 Yellow line f7A+ * 1
136 Burma road f2 2

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