Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 72m a.s.l
Faces N

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Evening Session © JayK

Crag features

The quarried walls under Blacknor Fort are one of the old-school Portland bouldering venues and provide some fine low-to-mid grade problems on immaculate rock. The climbing style is very similar to the sport routes the island is famous for. It is an ideal venue for an after-work bouldering session owing to quick access. Mercury and Solace is one of the best low-grade Portland ticks.

Approach notes

Blacknor North is approached from the designated Climbers' and Walkers' car park (fee) at the far south west corner of the housing estate in Weston. Do not park anywhere else in the housing estate. If the car park is full, please park on the main street in Weston, and walk through the estate to the car park. It is also possible to park in Reap Lane.

From the car park, walk towards the cliff-top path, and turn right (looking out). Continue for about 500m, past an old concrete-wall on the cliff edge, before the path drops down slightly into a quarried area.

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Portland (2008)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Teenage Riot f5+ * 44
2 Flaming June f4+ * 58
3 Downer f5+ * 53
4 The Groove f4+ 56
5 Sugar Cane f6A ** 45
6 Providence f5+ ** 46
7 Firewater f5 * 32
8 Xpander f6A+ 25
9 Theresa's Sound World f4+ * 27
10 Aero Zeppelin f6A 23
Climb name Grade
11 Easy Groove f3 52
12 Death Arete f5+ * 28
13 Death Slab f5 32
14 Orbitus Teranium f5+ * 30
15 Fiji f5+ ** 47
16 Desperate Death Gully f6A+ * 34
17 La Bombe f6B+ * 21
18 Namistai f5 * 59
19 Atlanta f6A 44
20 Sub Rosa Left f6A * 70
Climb name Grade
21 Sub Rosa Right f5 * 97
22 Not Sleeping Around f4+ 91
23 Mercury and Solace f5 ** 130
24 Contre le Sexisme f5+ ** 72
25 Satellite f5+ * 60
26 Ren and Stimpy f5+ * 62
27 Upper Tier Traverse V0- 5
28 Ghost Writer 5c 12
29 Mystery Stripper 5c 14

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