UKC

Climbs 130
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 290m a.s.l
Faces all

Mark Glaister on Lacitos at Pinares de San Antón © Alan James

Crag features

West face provides long vertical routes on porous orange limestone between 25-35m long. Beautiful location with parking at a public picnic area.

East face gets shorter slabbier routes upto around 15m on pocketed grey limestone similar to that of escalera arabe

West face: 36° 44'27.20" N, 4° 22'40.05" W
East face: 36° 44'26.56" N, 4° 21'45.44" W

Approach notes

Coming from Malaga, leave the A7/E15 at junction 246a, and head left at the roundabout (under the main road) to enter the San Anton de Pinares estate. Follow the road round until it takes a sharp left and becomes Av. San Anton.

For the West crag, now look for Calle Almendros on the left (has a dead end sign) and follow this until you see signs for Parque El Lagarillo Blanco. Follow these signs (dirt track) to Lagarillo Blanco Alta, until you reach an obivous large flat parking area (a great picnic spot!). From the parking area, walk towards the cliff face down the dirt track and follow it until you see a large remote tree on a flat section. Head up to the tree, and then follow the brown drainage channel up to the crags.

For the east crag, continue through the San Anton estate on Av San Anton. Continue past a fire warning sign onto a dirt track and park. Follow the track into the woods until you pass some scree until you see a narrow but distinct path that leads up to the crags.

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Guidebooks

Spain : El Chorro

A guidebook to the superb climbing around the village of El Chorro and the famous gorge. Great coverage of the sport climbing on the magnificent crags above the village and in the central gorge. Also includes a number of excellent outlying areas.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Shade on the east crag throughout afternoon / evening..
wolf.leeb - 21/Sep/13
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West Face (Sector del Lagrillo Blanco)
  West - Upper
3 Diedro Antón 5b *  
4 Directa Roni-Adán 7a  
5 Super nova 7a  
6 Left Pillar 6c+ *  
7 Extra Line 7b * 2
8 La sangre de mi colega 6c+ *** 2
9 Nelson "el Nomada" 6b+ ** 3
10 Evita 7a * 1
11 Evita Right 6b+ * 2
12 Nameless Wall 6b+ *** 1
13 Parece África pero son nubes 6c * 3
14 La pana Alpina 7a+ * 2
15 Thin Grey Wall 6b+ ** 3
16 Josuriman y los Dolomitas 7a+ ** 3
17 Perdida en los Alpes 6c * 1
18 Evolution 7c+ *  
19 Nube blanca 6c+ * 1
20 Lacitos 6b+ *** 7
21 Thailandia 6c *** 5
22 Paco patillas 6b 6
23 Rebuzno lejano 6c * 3
24 Nube rosa 6c+ * 3
25 Rosa Apache Wall 6c * 3
26 Apache canichi 7b ** 6
27 Chico terremoto 6c * 2
28 Entre Aguas 6c+ * 2
29 La danza de los pies negros 6c+ ** 1
  West - Cave
31 Cave Left 7a+  
32 Jungla mix 7a ** 5
33 Jungla Concreta 6c+ *** 6
34 Eran tres putas 7c+ *** 9
35 Dime de qué vacilas 7a ** 20
36 Grey Wall Left 6c 5
37 Grey Wall Right 6b+ 6
38 White Pillar 5c 4
39 El baile del pato 6a 13
40 El baile Right 6a+ 7
41 Cepo atómico 6c 1
42 Los managers de huelva 6b+ * 6
43 Pocket Start 6a+ * 8
  West - Lower
45 Pillar and Wall 5a 6
46 Two Bushes 6a 5
Climb name Grade
47 Branch Left 5b 3
48 Branch Right 5c 8
49 Sharp Start 6b+ * 2
50 Bulging Lower 6b * 3
51 El chollin 6b * 7
52 Milongas 7c * 3
53 Aldea global 7b ** 5
54 Sibarita 7a+ * 5
  West - The Tower
56 Tuti del tati 6c  
57 Wanpi 6a+ 2
58 Vampi
-
5c 2
59 La Vigia cheyenne
-
5a 4
60 Xispitas
-
5a 4
61 Venta pa la socie 5a * 2
62 Jorgito, Juanito y Jaimito, espetaítos por el caminito 6a * 2
63 Missing Bolt 6b+ * 2
64 Smooth Face 7a+ * 2
65 Steep Face 7b+ *  
66 Gran fisura 6c 2
67 Block Arete 5c 1
  East
69 La chispi 5a * 7
70 Miguelito coupe 5c * 7
71 La Cania 5c * 5
72 La Via de la Vida de Em Ma 5a * 12
73 Luna y las supernenas 5c * 10
74 The Orange Corner 6a * 13
75 Xin xan 6b * 26
76 Tocateja 6c 3
77 Mantis xavaresa 6c+ 2
78 La apretura 7a+ * 6
79 Encaja la raja 6a+ 1
80 Cero 7b+ ** 10
81 Right of Cero 7b * 4
82 Afinando el arma 6c+ ** 10
83 De cúbito supino 6a+ * 2
84 Diedro 5c * 5
85 Pica pleitos 5a * 4
86 Scoop and Wall 6b 4
87 The Thin Wall 6c+ * 2
88 Maestro virolas 6c+ ** 1
89 A guyuflo regalado no le mires el diente 6c 3
90 Ojo Clinico 6b * 2
91 La princesa y la cuerda 6c * 3
92 The Depression 5b 2
Climb name Grade
93 The Upper Pillar 6b * 4
94 La plateada 6a * 7
95 La podadera 7a+ * 3
96 Comando botijo 6c * 1
97 Colaboracion ciudadana 6c+ * 4
98 Jet set 6c+ ** 1
99 Yo soy esa 6c ** 8
100 Algarrobo 6b ** 12
101 Tora bora 7a ** 7
102 The Seam and Flake 6b * 3
103 Sensei 6c 1
104 Aplacada 7a * 3
105 F44 6c 1
106 Barman 6c 6
107 Payo malo 7c+ 2
108 Minilandia 7a+ * 2
109 Om shanti 6a+ * 2
110 L'adosá 6a+ 4
111 L'adosá (with bridging)
-
5c 2
112 La angustia del sardina 5a 1
113 The Chimney 5a 2
114 Va en diagonal 6a 2
  Sector Alto
116 Sector Alto 1
-
Project  
117 Sector Alto 2
-
7c+  
118 Sector Alto 3
-
7c  
119 Sector Alto 4
-
7a  
120 Sector Alto 5
-
Project  
121 Pilar
-
6a+  
122 Bahia
-
6b  
123 Soltera
-
6b  
124 Las repisas
-
4b  
125 Soci 2006
-
4b  
126 Er Camaron
-
6a  
127 La Gamba
-
5b  
128 Nocturna
-
5b  
129 Sector Alto 14
-
Project  
130 Endorfina
-
6b  
131 Nublado Mental
-
5a  
132 Anarkia
-
6a  
133 Poli loco
-
5b  
134 Tevi pereji
-
6a  
135 El Tute
-
4b  
136 Sacabo
-
5b  

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