Climbs 184
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 199m a.s.l
Faces S

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Through the big holes! © tim miller

Crag features

The most remote section of cliffs from Masouri are the caves, spires and walls that lead west from the road that runs over to Palionisos. The relatively long approach and lack of major classics means the place is usually much quieter when compared to the popular cliffs above Masouri. This means some routes are often sharp and the odd patch of crusty rock, or loose flake, is not unknown - a little care is sensible.

Approach notes

From Masouri, head out to Kastelli and then drive round the bay, through Arginonta and on past Arhi. Continue past the road to Palionisos. For the Kastri cliffs, park on a sharp left-hand bend, with houses to the left of a steep track, which heads towards the crag of Kastri - the castle is visible if you know where to look. Follow the track (shut the gates) then continue up the hill (red paint) to the enclosure below the castle. For the Styx area cliffs, continue into the quiet village of Emborios (good beaches and restaurants) where the road ends. On entering the village, turn right at a T-junction and drive up the steep concrete road. There is restricted parking before the dam, but cars are best left a little further down the road by the big tree. Follow the road up and round to the right until a gate on the left gives access to the hillside. Wander up to the line of cliffs - some paint and vague tracks.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Kalymnos

The latetst Rockfax print guidebook gives full coverage of the whole island. It is availabkle direct from the Rockfax web site. Also through the Rockfax app.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Kalymnos (2015)

Out of print:
Kalymnos (2010)
Kalymnos (2006)
We visited on 20th Oct '14 and there was a new route called Wasp (5b) to the right of Dark Corner (not mentioned in the update)
OutdoorGirl - 27/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Kefala Cave
2 Aucune Idée 5b *  
3 Gorges Pompidou 6a+ *  
4 J'Equipen l'Ile 6a **  
5 New 5b  
6 Fuori Programma 5c *  
7 Tomy Superstar 5c *  
8 Festival Off 6a+ *  
  Olive Tree
10 Apple Pie 5c 1
11 Mäusefalle 5b 1
12 Mäusekönig 6a+ ** 1
13 Charly's Cat 6a+ ** 2
14 Olive Tree 6a ** 3
15 Meckerfritze 6b ** 3
16 SFH 6b+ ***  
17 Kalite 6c+ **  
18 Aquila 6b+ **  
19 Babele 6c+ **  
20 Oil 7a+ ** 1
21 Crazy Dream 5a * 4
22 Fix 7b ** 2
23 Stamina 6c ** 3
  Styx Main
25 Tönerner Krug 6a+ *** 37
26 String Secret 6b ** 7
27 Killbit 6c ** 4
28 Praline 6b+ *** 19
29 Zugabe 6b *** 17
30 Golden Top 6a+ ** 8
31 Litlost 6b * 7
32 Paulina 6c *  
33 Lene 6b ** 3
34 Johanna 6a ** 11
35 Stachel Schwein 6a+ 1
36 Bunker 6a+ ** 11
37 The Deal 6b+ *** 8
38 Team no Werk 6c+ ** 3
39 Nissim 6b+ *** 3
40 Nissim Extension 6c *** 1
41 Boleskine House 6b+ ** 5
42 Boleskine House Extension 7a *** 6
43 Zolotas 6b ** 5
44 Zolotas Extension 7a ***  
45 Silbermond 6c **  
46 Inuendo 6c ** 5
47 Waiting for the Spring 6b ** 6
48 Leningrad Cowboys go America 6b * 9
49 For Kids 4a * 8
  Styx Right
51 Hades 6c * 1
52 Medea 7b * 1
53 Kapilotracté 6c+ ** 7
54 Dragoner 6b+ *** 13
55 Pablo-Luca 6a ** 29
56 Troll 6a+ ** 3
57 Portokali Taxidi 6c *** 37
58 Otavi 6b ** 26
59 Poco Loco 6a+ ** 21
60 Harmonie 5c * 35
61 Do You Remember 5c ** 22
62 Sixpack 5c *** 35
63 Atropos (Keep on smiling) 6a ** 25
  François Guillot
65 Ziegenstall (P1) 7a ** 1
66 Ziegenstall 7b **  
Climb name Grade
67 Vapour Trails 7a+ ** 2
68 Freewill 7b+ * 1
69 Antonella 7b *** 1
70 Coloria 6c *** 2
71 I Love Kalymnos 6b ** 11
72 Guillot Corner 5c *** 39
73 Poets Without Words. 7c ** 1
74 Music of Rock 6b+ *** 8
75 Tiny Tina 6b+ *** 6
76 Encore 7c *** 2
77 Loutraki 6c+ *** 3
78 Ivan is Grand 7b *** 5
79 Warm Bier 7a+ *** 1
80 Select 6c ** 1
81 Andros 6a * 3
  Emborios Portal
83 Circus 7a+ ** 1
84 Ingo 6b ** 2
85 No Exit 6a+ ** 3
86 Metro 6a+ *** 2
87 Olivenbaum 6a+ * 11
88 Olivenbaum Extension 6c+ ** 5
89 Murmelbahn 6c+  
90 Schnappi 5b * 9
91 Crash 6c+ * 1
92 Stadtaffe 7a ** 6
93 Ruhetag 6a+ * 2
  Kreissaal
95 In the Mood for Love 6b ** 19
96 Little Leo 6a ** 21
97 New Wave 6a * 5
98 Lea 5a ** 55
99 Ovulation 5c ** 53
100 Climax 6a ** 36
101 Embryo 6a ** 22
102 Tamangur 5c ** 17
103 Supernanny Ingrid 5c ** 25
104 Bossa Nova 5c ** 19
105 Para ti Ursula 6a *** 38
106 Dzodzet Connection 5c *** 31
107 Liloh 6a ** 26
108 Gastlosenlis 5c ** 41
109 Jassou Stefanie 5c ** 31
110 For Sue 6a ** 12
  Kastri
112 Kazonis 6a+ *** 21
113 Cook L1
-
5b * 45
114 Cook 5c ** 9
115 Red Rooster 6a * 41
116 Fata 6a ** 77
117 Bibou 6a+ *** 120
118 Enchanted Castle 6b *** 107
119 Principessa Giulia 6c+ *** 57
120 Majestic 7a+ *** 44
121 Unknown * 6c 2
122 Tower Staircase 5a * 18
123 Dragon's Lair 6c *** 24
124 Dark Corner 6b * 7
125 Wasp 5c * 17
126 Game Over 6b+ *** 27
127 X-Over 6a+ *** 46
128 Haramiss 6a+ ** 42
129 Haramiss Extension 6c+ *** 7
130 Side Cut 6a+ *** 63
131 Side Cut Extension 6c *** 18
132 Gotti 7a *** 20
Climb name Grade
133 Borni 7b ** 2
  Sophie
135 Fahrenheit 6a+ *  
136 Sigrid 5c  
137 Wolli 5c  
138 Rasp 6a+  
139 Dario 6c * 2
140 Bee 6a * 2
141 Dolce Eugenia 5c * 5
142 Alessandro 5c * 5
143 Sophie 6a * 4
144 Fatolitis 7b  
145 Maria Grazia 6a * 2
146 Betty Bop 6c  
  Scali
148 Tout a l'Evier 5c  
149 Trivial pour Suisse 5a **  
150 Phare à Brouillard 6a ** 1
151 Scarification 6c  
152 La Scala 6a+ **  
153 Chemin de Crux 6c *  
154 Christ Country 6b **  
155 Disqualification 5b **  
156 Scarlatine 5a *  
157 Escalator 5c ** 1
158 Small Pox 5a *  
159 Scali 5b *  
160 Pascali 5c ** 1
161 Darloose 6a *** 1
162 Camorra 5b *** 2
163 Scalligator 5b **  
164 Nrengheta 5c *** 1
165 Very Gneiss 5c *  
166 Foie de Morue 5c *  
167 Coeur de Pirate 6b **  
168 Corner Beef 6a+ *  
169 Red Dingue 6b+ *  
170 Vas-y-Lisa 6c *  
171 Tzoisgzos 6b+ *  
  Vasilissa
173 Medusa 5b * 1
174 Ble Sinefo 5a ** 3
175 Mikros Sismos 5c * 2
176 Megalomaniac 5b * 5
177 Nefos 5a * 4
178 Ftoho Petali 5b * 3
179 Mega Kremidi 5c ** 2
180 Vasilissa 6b **  
181 Aroma Telio 5c ** 2
182 Tsabali 5b ** 3
183 O Thee Mou 5b * 2
184 Fila Me 5c *  
185 Kariola 6a * 2
186 Kabaneli 5c **  
  Paradise Garden
188 Glück gehabt 5c *  
189 Dreckspatz 5c *  
190 Skorpion 6b+ *  
191 Yiamas Bar 6b+ *  
192 Kleines bäumchen 6a+  
193 Berlin 36 6a * 1
194 Paradise Garden 6a * 1
195 Gardien weg 5c * 1
196 Sonne, mond - sterne 5c *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs