Climbs 180
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 199m a.s.l
Faces S

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Through the big holes! © tim miller

Crag features

The most remote section of cliffs from Masouri are the caves, spires and walls that lead west from the road that runs over to Palionisos. The relatively long approach and lack of major classics means the place is usually much quieter when compared to the popular cliffs above Masouri. This means some routes are often sharp and the odd patch of crusty rock, or loose flake, is not unknown - a little care is sensible.

Approach notes

From Masouri, head out to Kastelli and then drive round the bay, through Arginonta and on past Arhi. Continue past the road to Palionisos. For the Kastri cliffs, park on a sharp left-hand bend, with houses to the left of a steep track, which heads towards the crag of Kastri - the castle is visible if you know where to look. Follow the track (shut the gates) then continue up the hill (red paint) to the enclosure below the castle. For the Styx area cliffs, continue into the quiet village of Emborios (good beaches and restaurants) where the road ends. On entering the village, turn right at a T-junction and drive up the steep concrete road. There is restricted parking before the dam, but cars are best left a little further down the road by the big tree. Follow the road up and round to the right until a gate on the left gives access to the hillside. Wander up to the line of cliffs - some paint and vague tracks.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Kalymnos

The latetst Rockfax print guidebook gives full coverage of the whole island. It is availabkle direct from the Rockfax web site. Also through the Rockfax app.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Kalymnos (2015)

Out of print:
Kalymnos (2010)
Kalymnos (2006)
We visited on 20th Oct '14 and there was a new route called Wasp (5b) to the right of Dark Corner (not mentioned in the update)
OutdoorGirl - 27/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Kefala Cave
2 Aucune Idée 5b *  
3 Gorges Pompidou 6a+ *  
4 J'Equipen l'Ile 6a **  
5 New 5b  
6 Fuori Programma 5c *  
7 Tomy Superstar 5c *  
8 Festival Off 6a+ *  
  Olive Tree
10 Apple Pie 5c 1
11 Mäusefalle 5b 1
12 Mäusekönig 6a+ ** 1
13 Charly's Cat 6a+ ** 2
14 Olive Tree 6a ** 3
15 Meckerfritze 6b ** 3
16 SFH 6b+ ***  
17 Kalite 6c+ **  
18 Aquila 6b+ **  
19 Babele 6c+ **  
20 Oil 7a+ ** 1
21 Crazy Dream 5a * 4
22 Fix 7b ** 2
23 Stamina 6c ** 3
  Styx Main
25 Tönerner Krug 6a+ *** 37
26 String Secret 6b ** 5
27 Killbit 6c ** 3
28 Praline 6b+ *** 17
29 Zugabe 6b *** 15
30 Golden Top 6a+ ** 7
31 Litlost 6b * 6
32 Paulina 6c *  
33 Lene 6b ** 3
34 Johanna 6a ** 11
35 Stachel Schwein 6a+ 1
36 Bunker 6a+ ** 11
37 The Deal 6b+ *** 7
38 Team no Werk 6c+ ** 2
39 Nissim 6b+ *** 2
40 Nissim Extension 6c ***  
41 Boleskine House 6b+ ** 5
42 Boleskine House Extension 7a *** 5
43 Zolotas 6b ** 5
44 Zolotas Extension 7a ***  
45 Silbermond 6c **  
46 Inuendo 6c ** 4
47 Waiting for the Spring 6b ** 6
48 Leningrad Cowboys go America 6b * 9
49 For Kids 4a * 8
  Styx Right
51 Hades 6c * 1
52 Medea 7b *  
53 Kapilotracté 6c+ ** 7
54 Dragoner 6b+ *** 12
55 Pablo-Luca 6a ** 29
56 Troll 6a+ ** 2
57 Portokali Taxidi 6c *** 36
58 Otavi 6b ** 26
59 Poco Loco 6a+ ** 21
60 Harmonie 5c * 35
61 Do You Remember 5c ** 21
62 Sixpack 5c *** 34
63 Atropos (Keep on smiling) 6a ** 24
Climb name Grade
  François Guillot
65 Ziegenstall (P1) 7a ** 1
66 Ziegenstall 7b **  
67 Antonella 7b *** 1
68 Coloria 6c *** 1
69 I Love Kalymnos 6b ** 7
70 Guillot Corner 5c *** 36
71 Music of Rock 6b+ *** 4
72 Tiny Tina 6b+ *** 4
73 Loutraki 6c+ *** 3
74 Ivan is Grand 7b *** 4
75 Warm Bier 7a+ *** 1
76 Select 6c ** 1
77 Andros 6a * 3
  Emborios Portal
79 Circus 7a+ ** 1
80 Ingo 6b ** 2
81 No Exit 6a+ ** 3
82 Metro 6a+ *** 2
83 Olivenbaum 6a+ * 11
84 Olivenbaum Extension 6c+ ** 5
85 Murmelbahn 6c+  
86 Schnappi 5b * 9
87 Crash 6c+ * 1
88 Stadtaffe 7a ** 6
89 Ruhetag 6a+ * 2
  Kreissaal
91 In the Mood for Love 6b ** 19
92 Little Leo 6a ** 20
93 New Wave 6a * 5
94 Lea 5a ** 54
95 Ovulation 5c ** 52
96 Climax 6a ** 36
97 Embryo 6a ** 22
98 Tamangur 5c ** 17
99 Supernanny Ingrid 5c ** 25
100 Bossa Nova 5c ** 19
101 Para ti Ursula 6a *** 35
102 Dzodzet Connection 5c *** 30
103 Liloh 6a ** 25
104 Gastlosenlis 5c ** 39
105 Jassou Stefanie 5c ** 29
106 For Sue 6a ** 12
  Kastri
108 Kazonis 6a+ *** 19
109 Cook L1
-
5b * 43
110 Cook 5c ** 8
111 Red Rooster 6a * 39
112 Fata 6a ** 74
113 Bibou 6a+ *** 117
114 Enchanted Castle 6b *** 101
115 Principessa Giulia 6c+ *** 53
116 Majestic 7a+ *** 35
117 Unknown * 6c 1
118 Tower Staircase 5a * 19
119 Dragon's Lair 6c *** 24
120 Dark Corner 6b * 6
121 Wasp 5c * 16
122 Game Over 6b+ *** 25
123 X-Over 6a+ *** 43
124 Haramiss 6a+ ** 41
125 Haramiss Extension 6c+ *** 6
126 Side Cut 6a+ *** 62
127 Side Cut Extension 6c *** 18
Climb name Grade
128 Gotti 7a *** 20
129 Borni 7b ** 2
  Sophie
131 Fahrenheit 6a+ *  
132 Sigrid 5c  
133 Wolli 5c  
134 Rasp 6a+  
135 Dario 6c * 1
136 Bee 6a * 2
137 Dolce Eugenia 5c * 4
138 Alessandro 5c * 5
139 Sophie 6a * 4
140 Fatolitis 7b  
141 Maria Grazia 6a * 2
142 Betty Bop 6c  
  Scali
144 Tout a l'Evier 5c  
145 Trivial pour Suisse 5a **  
146 Phare à Brouillard 6a **  
147 Scarification 6c  
148 La Scala 6a+ **  
149 Chemin de Crux 6c *  
150 Christ Country 6b **  
151 Disqualification 5b **  
152 Scarlatine 5a *  
153 Escalator 5c **  
154 Small Pox 5a *  
155 Scali 5b *  
156 Pascali 5c ** 1
157 Darloose 6a *** 1
158 Camorra 5b *** 1
159 Scalligator 5b **  
160 Nrengheta 5c *** 1
161 Very Gneiss 5c *  
162 Foie de Morue 5c *  
163 Coeur de Pirate 6b **  
164 Corner Beef 6a+ *  
165 Red Dingue 6b+ *  
166 Vas-y-Lisa 6c *  
167 Tzoisgzos 6b+ *  
  Vasilissa
169 Medusa 5b *  
170 Ble Sinefo 5a ** 3
171 Mikros Sismos 5c *  
172 Megalomaniac 5b * 3
173 Nefos 5a * 2
174 Ftoho Petali 5b * 1
175 Mega Kremidi 5c **  
176 Vasilissa 6b **  
177 Aroma Telio 5c ** 2
178 Tsabali 5b ** 1
179 O Thee Mou 5b * 2
180 Fila Me 5c *  
181 Kariola 6a * 2
182 Kabaneli 5c **  
  Paradise Garden
184 Glück gehabt 5c *  
185 Dreckspatz 5c *  
186 Skorpion 6b+ *  
187 Yiamas Bar 6b+ *  
188 Kleines bäumchen 6a+  
189 Berlin 36 6a * 1
190 Paradise Garden 6a * 1
191 Gardien weg 5c * 1
192 Sonne, mond - sterne 5c *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Craggs