Climbs 61
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces SW

Fairyhole Traverse - E2 © Doug's camera - unknown

Crag features

Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Approach notes

Bird ban. Usually runs from 15th March until the end of June for most of the area. However the Sugarloaf and surrounding areas are banned until the end of July. Occasionally the restriction is extended due to late nesting. In these cases it will be indicated by signs on the crag approach.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Prow Buttress 
2DynamiteE4 6a 2
3The ProwE5 6b  
4Elephants EarE6 6b  
5Stainless SteelE5 6b  
6GulgondVS 4b **4
7TwillS 4a **9
8TombstoneE1 5b 4
9Waiting On DougE2 5c ** 
10Army RouteVD 8
 Sector Bouldering 
12Uber die PumperMVS 5a 3
 Torque Test Wall 
14Torque Test AreteE1 5a **16
15Grip City DudeE2 5c 5
16Torque TestHVS 5a ***29
17KremmenE3 5c 3
18Route 2E2 5b 2
19The RampE1 5a 5
 Hut Circle Buttress 
21LeftoversE2 5a  
22Guardian SoulE2 5b  
23StroudE1 5b 7
24LevitationE6 6c 2
25New AgeE4 6a 2
26TavolaraE3 6a 2
27Mandatory ScuttleE3 6a 1
28The RoofE5 6a 1
 Training Wall 
30Training traverse7b+  
31EurotrashE5 6a *2
 Tooth Butress 
33The Gift of a Chocolate DisasterVS 3
34SabreE5 6b  
35The IncisorE6 6b ***2
36MolarE5 6b  
 Tower Slabs 
38Jim's AreteVS 4b **6
39Torque yourself out of itHS 4b *5
40Chimney CrackVD 9
41Morecambe and WiseS 4a *6
 Tower Buttress 
43Tower Buttress CrackHVS 5a *13
44Tower ButtressVD *9
 Pillar Buttress 
46SaltE7 6b 1
47One In The SwarmE8 6c 1
48Flickering ImagesE6 6a 1
 Solar Buttress 
50SupermoonE7 6b  
51Blood Red MoonE6 6b  
52EclipseE7 6c  
 Blade Buttress 
54The Subtle KnifeE7 6c 1
 Chasm Wall 
56Out Of The DarkE6 6b  
57Into The LightE8 6c  
58Chasm ArĂȘteE5 6b 1
59Brush Tucker ManE4 6a 1
 Primeval Wall 
61The Broken ManE8 6c 1
62Goats Don't ShaveE7 6c  
63OmenE6 6b  
64DrivenE5 6b  
65MantaE7 6c  
66PredatorE6 6c  
67HoroscpeE4 6a  
68Together SystemE5 6b  
69MansardE6 6b 1
70FlawlessE7 6c  
71Hang DogE4 6a  
72FiniteE3 5c  
 Xanadu Wall 
74MylreaVS 4b ***3
75XanaduHVS * 

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