Climbs 61
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces SW

Fairyhole Traverse - E2 © Doug's camera - unknown

Crag features

Large chunks of cliff descending towards the sea, leaving huge chasms to swallow the unwary.

Park at the end of the single track road that goes through Cregneash village. Follow the path alongside the wall, ignoring any paths heading off the the old cafe, to the bottom corner where there is a stile. Cross this, head towards the sea for a few metres, then cross back over the stone wall using the obvious gap. A thin path leads down to the hut circle on top of Hut Circle Buttress.

Descending the gully past a steep wall with obvious crack (Torque Test Wall) leads to Tower Slabs and round to Tower Buttress. Many of the old routes further round from here have been affected by rock fall. Following the top edge of the cliffs forms the Western section, with the square overhanging nose split by a central fist crack being Gulgond. The tall cliffs on the way to the Sugarloaf stack are Xanadu Wall.

The only published information is which is now very out-of-date (plus the site is often down so use google cache if necessary). Many extreme routes have been put up by Doug Hall which are not recorded.

Approach notes

Bird ban. Usually runs from 15th March until the end of June for most of the area. However the Sugarloaf and surrounding areas are banned until the end of July. Occasionally the restriction is extended due to late nesting. In these cases it will be indicated by signs on the crag approach.


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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Prow Buttress
2 Dynamite E4 6a 2
3 The Prow E5 6b 1
4 Elephants Ear E6 6b  
5 Stainless Steel E5 6b  
6 Gulgond VS 4b ** 4
7 Twill S 4a ** 9
8 Tombstone E1 5b 4
9 Waiting On Doug E2 5c **  
10 Army Route VD 8
  Sector Bouldering
12 Uber die Pumper MVS 5a 3
  Torque Test Wall
14 Torque Test Arete E1 5a ** 15
15 Grip City Dude E2 5c 5
16 Torque Test HVS 5a *** 32
17 Kremmen E3 5c 3
18 Commander Cool E2 5b 2
19 The Ramp E1 5a 5
  Hut Circle Buttress
21 Leftovers E2 5a  
22 Guardian Soul E2 5b  
23 Stroud E1 5b 8
24 Levitation E6 6c 2
25 New Age E4 6a 3
26 Tavolara E3 6a 2
27 Mandatory Scuttle E3 6a 1
28 The Roof E5 6a 1
  Training Wall
30 Training traverse 7b+  
31 Eurotrash E5 6a * 2
  Tooth Butress
33 The Gift of a Chocolate Disaster VS 3
34 Sabre E5 6b  
35 The Incisor E6 6b *** 2
36 Molar E5 6b  
  Tower Slabs
38 Jim's Arete VS 4b ** 6
39 Torque yourself out of it HS 4b * 5
40 Chimney Crack VD 9
41 Morecambe and Wise S 4a * 6
  Tower Buttress
43 Tower Buttress Crack HVS 5a * 13
44 Tower Buttress VD * 9
  Pillar Buttress
46 Salt E7 6b 1
47 One In The Swarm E8 6c 1
48 Flickering Images E6 6a 1
  Solar Buttress
50 Supermoon E7 6b  
51 Blood Red Moon E6 6b  
52 Eclipse E7 6c  
  Blade Buttress
54 The Subtle Knife E7 6c 1
  Chasm Wall
56 Out Of The Dark E6 6b  
57 Into The Light E8 6c  
58 Chasm ArĂȘte E5 6b 1
59 Brush Tucker Man E4 6a 1
  Primeval Wall
61 The Broken Man E8 6c 1
62 Goats Don't Shave E7 6c  
63 Omen E6 6b  
64 Driven E5 6b  
65 Manta E7 6c  
66 Predator E6 6c  
67 Horoscpe E4 6a  
68 Together System E5 6b  
69 Mansard E6 6b 1
70 Flawless E7 6c  
71 Hang Dog E4 6a  
72 Finite E3 5c  
  Xanadu Wall
74 Mylrea VS 4b *** 3
75 Xanadu HVS *  

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