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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 108
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 291m a.s.l
Faces S

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Kinkaid (18) Arapiles © MelH

Crag features

A maze of separate crags on the gully right side beyond Fang Buttress.  South facing which means they are popular on hot days, with many of the routes staying in the shade the whole day.  Predominantly single pitch routes but Dunes Buttress provides some good multi-pitches, especially the classic Eskimo Nell.

Approach notes

Most of the buttresses can be accessed by walking up the Central Gully tourist track from camp and breaking rightwards at the appropriate point (approaches from camp between 5 and 25 mins).

For the buttresses further up (Cecilia Wall, Skyline Wall, Starless Buttress in particular) the easiest approach may be by driving up the summit road to the Wheelchair Lookout (at the end of the short dirt roat) and walking down from above:

- CECILIA BUTTRESS - park at the pull-in on the dirt road (just before the wheelchair lookout one-way loop starts) where a well worn track heads across the rock over the top (rightwards) towards Tiger Wall (the walk-off from Dunes Buttress/Tiger Wall area.  Follow this track for about 50m to where it crosses a small chasm/slot with some big blocks.  Don't cross over but turn right and follow this chasm/fault, and then vague path, downhill keeping the base of the cliffs on your left.  After another 50m a small meadow on your right indicates where the Torture Chamber bouldering is located (just out of sight, approx 50m across meadow).  Another 100m down the hill and Cecilia Buttress comes into view with the obvious yellow groove of Cecilia (<5 mins walk-in).

- SKYLINE WALLS / STARLESS BUTTRESS - Easiest approach is as for Cecilia Wall.  Just below Cecilia Wall (just right of the steep Girls On Bikes wall) is a stepped scramble leading up and rightwards (grade 2).  This leads up to the base of Skyline Walls, which extend rightwards along the terrace.  If you continue walking rightwards (towards camp) underneath Skyline Walls, Starless Buttress will appear above you.  To access Wind Wall take a small pad leading up a wide gully, then cut back right to the base of the wall.  Follow the path you were on to reach the start of Los Endos and the lower routes.  It is possible to scramble up/down the gully to the left of Wind Wall (looking in) to access the top of the buttress.  The top of Reaper Buttress is currently behind you.  The Skyline Walls/Starless Buttress terrace can also be accessed either by a grade 4 scramble (with chains on top part) up Dreadnought Gully (behind Preludes Wall) or by doing a route on Preludes Wall or Reaper Buttress.  To descend from these walls either reverse the scramble back down to Cecilia Wall (unpleasant downclimb in trainers), or continue following the path downhill (towards camp) along the edge of the rock (via awkward slither down onto a boulder) to access the caves above Preludes Wall.  Abseil chains either down the Dreadnought Gully scramble, or walk through Hercules' Cave and abseil down Transylvania (bolts).

- DREADNOUGHT GULLY - is accessed by following the Central Gully tourist track out of camp, then breaking rightwards at a path, which leads steeply uphill via some boulders aiming for the base of Dunes Buttress, break left underneath the overhanging line of Sandpiper and follow the path up into the gully.  Continuing to scramble all the way up here (grade 4 / chains) accesses the cave above Preludes Wall.

- REAPER BUTTRESS - is accessed by following the small path at the base of the cliff edge uphill from Preludes Wall, this path continues all the way up to the wheelchair lookout via Cecilia Buttress.

- MORFYDD WALL - probably the closest crag to camp.  Approach towards Plaque wall, skirting up the left hand side of this to the base of Fang Buttress and continue along the steep path up the base of the cliff to the base of your chosen route.  Continuing up here is another way to access the base of Dunes Buttress (Eskimo Nell etc.)

 

 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Deep Freeze Wall
2 Deep Blue
-
23  
3 Deep Freeze
-
25 **  
4 Deep Throat
-
24 *  
  Mari Buttress
6 'Evans Above
-
21 * 5
7 Megalomaniac 14 ** 45
8 Mari 17 *** 86
9 Electric Warrior 20 ** 41
10 Devoid
-
22 * 2
11 Vacancy
-
23 * 1
12 Droop Street
-
21 * 13
13 Femroc
-
18 * 7
14 Dyslexia
-
25  
  Cecilia Wall
16 Fox On The Rocks
-
13 1
17 John's Corner 19 * 1
18 Cecilia 22 ** 26
19 Intransience
-
23 ** 11
20 Blind Ambition
-
25 ** 1
21 Girls On Bikes
-
25 *  
  Skyline Walls
23 Exodus 2.5 *
-
27 **  
  Garden Wall
  Reaper Buttress
26 Reaper
-
22 ** 17
27 Wild Oats
-
19 * 5
  Preludes Wall
29 Subliminal Cut
-
18 3
30 Transylvania 11 * 9
Climb name Grade
31 Diagonal Crack
-
9 4
32 Rosy Shy 19 * 16
33 Dracula
-
14 ** 29
34 Stalagmite 13 15
35 Preludes 17 * 24
36 Frankenstein
-
16 1
37 Mugs Game 16 2
38 About Face 17 2
39 Jodie's Climb
-
12 1
40 Interludes
-
18 * 1
  Minstrel Pinnacle
42 Pestilence 19 1
43 Scourge 20 * 10
44 Kinky Kuple 21 1
45 The Minstrel
-
10  
  Starless Buttress
47 Oh Bondage 18 * 3
48 Not Like A Hurricane 21 * 1
49 Ride Like the Wind (Pikers Variant) 25 ** 1
50 Ride Like The Wind 25 *** 2
51 Los Endos
-
22 ** 19
52 Starless & Bible Black
-
22 ** 12
  Dreadnought Gully
54 No Exit
-
25 * 4
  Dreadnought Buttress
56 Dreadnought
-
24 ** 6
57 Dreadnaught Variant 22 ** 12
  Dunes Buttress
59 Saracen
-
16 * 10
60 Scarecrow 20 * 1
Climb name Grade
61 Arab
-
15 * 10
62 Dunes 15 ** 22
63 Eskimo Nell 10 *** 73
  Morfydd Wall
65 Firedance 20 * 13
66 Deeply Techo
-
24 * 1
67 Feral Chicken
-
22 ** 19
68 Lennox
-
15 1
69 The Philanthropist 15 * 15
70 Petrol Solutions 24 1
71 Slap Happy 23 5
72 Kinkaid
-
18 * 13
73 No Standing
-
24 * 2
74 Morfyne
-
24 2
75 Morfydd 19 ** 56
76 Bygone 11 * 14
  Ali's Area
78 Ali's 4 * 8
79 Directathal
-
21 * 1
80 Debut
-
9 * 1
  Moved climbs from Arapiles - Fang Buttress and Surrounds
  Morfydd Wall
83 Firedance
-
19 * 1
84 The Philanthropist
-
15 * 1
85 Kinkaid
-
18 * 1
86 Morfydd
-
19 ** 3
87 Bygone
-
11 * 1
  Ali's Area
89 Debut
-
10 2
90 Alis 4 * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Aly