Climbs 155
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces all

Nikolaj Hansen leads the classic route, Spagaten, at Utby. Göteborg, Sweden. © Ulrik Hasemann

Crag features

Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25m on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Good topos here:

https://27crags.com/crags/utby

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/listing/utby/

Guidebooks

A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Gärdsås 
 Gärdsås / Jannes hörn 
3Star Trekn5  
4Kurtn7-  
5?n4+  
6Dolomiti
-
n5+ 2
7Svåra väggenn7-  
8Vårtecknetn5 1
9Kryckan
-
n5  
10Jannes Hörnn7- *1
11Kapten långfingern7-  
12Jennys grejn5+  
13Bikupan
-
n5+ 1
14Bitskn6+ 1
15Älgens överraskning
-
n5+ 10
16Luftmadrassen
-
n5+ 6
17Yesterday
-
n5  
18Toms överraskning
-
n5+ 3
19Set
-
n5+ 3
20Gamen5- 9
21Måndagens led
-
n3 5
22Fredagens led
-
n4 4
23Dominikas led
-
n4 4
24Jappen5 *13
25Jug
-
n5 14
26??n7+ 1
27Start och speedn6 *4
28Pi kuan
-
n5+ 3
29Sträckfisk
-
n7-  
30Lutfisk
-
n7  
31Tien-Tsin
-
n7 * 
32China corner
-
n6+  
33Centralpelaren
-
n6+ 1
34Travolta
-
n7 5
35Baryshnikov
-
n6 1
36Moses pendelton
-
n8-  
37Nurejev
-
n6+  
38Mowglin4+ 13
39Baloo
-
n4  
40Bagheera
-
n4+  
41Blåvitt
-
n6-  
42Elektricitet
-
n5 2
43Datamaskiner
-
n6-  
 Gömda väggen 
45Nagelsprickann6 *1
46Fingersprickann6- *2
47Brakkaminenn5 **1
48Moss Crackn5  
49Kristallväggenn5 * 
50Tåjammetn5 **2
 Bakterieväggen 
 Köksväggen 
 Utby / Ragnhilds näsa 
54Tugga Knivarn7- 1
55Ragnhilds Hakan5+ *1
56Ragnhilds Näsan5+ **3
 Slabben 
58Olas Direkttransportn4+  
59Töjbara benetn4+ 1
60Bagarmossenn6  
61Dagen Eftern4+  
62Fars Dagn3 **7
63Skärseldenn4+ ***17
64Hurtigruttenn5- **13
65La Traviatan4+ ***8
66Flygande marann5 10
67Undanflyktenn4 6
68Slab of Thirstn5- 11
69Brännvinsledenn5+ ***10
 Rönnleden 
71Rönnledenn4+ ***13
72Sneda sprickann5 **9
73Svåra Diedretn6- ***4
74Leepern5+ 2
75Tiöringenn4+ 1
76Fridstörarenn6 *1
 Monster Crack 
78Alfa Helixn5+ **3
79Monster laybackn6+ **2
 Crack of Doom 
81Återvändsgrändenn6- **4
82Crack of Doomn6- ***10
83Asterix och Obelixn5 1
 Till 
85Tilln5- ***25
86Falkenn5+ *2
87Luftiga Stegetn5- ***19
 Stora väggen 
89Tuborgn6+ ***10
90Kronenburgn7 ***2
91Nelds kaminn5- *1
 Limbo 
93Boa Constrictorn6- **2
94Ants in my Pantsn6- **6
95Pandan6- ***4
96Spindelapann6- *2
97Vrålapann6- **4
98Babianenn4+ **14
99Babianen Direktn5+ ***7
 Nötterna 1 
101Mirceas ledn6 ***12
102Laybacksprickann5- 1
 Nötterna 2 
 Övre väggen 
105Tjabon4 1
106Spagatenn5+ ***32
107Spagaten Direktn6- ***4
108Till Susannen7- **4
109Snett åt vänstern6 ***6
110Snett åt högern5+ **22
111Torrsimmetn5- 2
 Nötterna 3 
 Bouldering 
114Ängsaretenf5 1
115Ängsareten Direktf5+ 1
116Jazzabyxaf5 1
117I'm Chevy Chase and Your Notf4 2
118Bögdödenf7A 1
 Moved climbs from Fjällbo 
 Koskenkorva 
121Chivas Regaln5 **7
122Koskenkorvan5 **6
123Drambuien5+ *5
124Gonzon5- 2
125Aquatic Apen5 1
126Sans och balansn5+ *1
127Smala ledenn5+ 1
 Ikaros 
129Yo-Yo Hörnetn6 1
 Hollywoodväggen 
131Beverly Hillsn7- *1
132Tjille Vingn7- **2
133Hollywoodn7- ***7
134Bob Hoppn6+ ***4
135Rosa på beten5+ *4
136Sabeldansn7 **1
137Hollywood IceWI-4 **1
 Slowfox 
139Tobleronen6+ ***2
140Rittersportn5 2
141Slowfoxn5+ 5b **12
 Sahara 
 Rabiesväggen 
144Rabies7a **1
145Dynamo7a * 
146Batman7b+ **1
147Stopplikt6a+ *2
148Hästudden6b 2
149Trotskys hämnd (Trotskys revenge)WI-5 ***3
 Kenneths led 
151Ulf och Susannes Ledn4+ *1
152Spider Tonyn6- *1
153Kenneths snedstegn6- *1
154Sodomn5 *3
155Bohemian6- **3
156Kenneths ledn5 ***16
157Blue Trackn6 * 
158Blue Track (alt. finish)n5 *1
159Gomorran5- **8
160Nervtrasseln5 *1
 Bananblocket 
162Runt Hörnetn5- 3
163Oles crackn5+ *10
164Robins crackn5+ ***14
165Tunnsprickann5- ***5
166Bananblocketn6- ***13
167Stoppern6 **3
168Svarta Diedretn5+ **1
169Borta med vindenn5+ **2
 Café Stålborsten 
171Zoo-apann5 1
 Skivblocket 
173Gunnars skräckn5+ ***16
174Kantenn6 **4
175Bantarenn5+ **1
176Gladiatorn6b+ ***3
177Quo Vadisn6 2
178Neron6- **6
179Caligulan6- **8
180Limus bror Linusn3+ 1
 Rampen 
 Supertaket 
183Trappan5b *3
184Start6a 1
185Pinnakeln
-
6b+ ** 
186Alfa Caentauri6a 1
 Glömda väggen 
 Moved climbs from Gärdsås 
 Moved climbs 

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