Climbs 155
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces all

Nikolaj Hansen leads the classic route, Spagaten, at Utby. Göteborg, Sweden. © Ulrik Hasemann

Crag features

Utby, together with Fjällbo and Gärdsås, is the biggest and most popular crag complex in the Gothenburg area. These three crags are often collectively refered to as Utby. Even though it's popular it is unlikely you will need to queue for a climb.

Routes are between 10 and 25m on superb granite. Easy to walk/scramble to and from the top. Very nice scenery. Almost all routes are naturally protected, with just a handful of sport climbs and a few mixed routes.

The grades are here given as norwegian for trad climbs, but they are meant to be interpreted as the swedish grade. Traditionally the grades in the Gothenburg area are considered stiff, so a 6 (french 6b) is usually no laughing matter even for the experienced climber.

Good topos here:

https://27crags.com/crags/utby

http://www.sverigeforaren.se/listing/utby/

Guidebooks

A lovely crag 15 minutes drive outside Goteborg with an easy walk in.
JWB - 12/Aug/09
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gärdsås
  Gärdsås / Jannes hörn
3 Star Trek n5  
4 Kurt n7-  
5 ? n4+  
6 Dolomiti
-
n5+ 4
7 Svåra väggen n7-  
8 Vårtecknet n5 1
9 Kryckan
-
n5 1
10 Jannes Hörn n7- * 1
11 Kapten långfinger n7-  
12 Jennys grej n5+  
13 Bikupan
-
n5+ 1
14 Bitsk n6+ 1
15 Älgens överraskning
-
n5+ 10
16 Luftmadrassen
-
n5+ 6
17 Yesterday
-
n5  
18 Toms överraskning
-
n5+ 3
19 Set
-
n5+ 3
20 Game n5- 9
21 Måndagens led
-
n3 5
22 Fredagens led
-
n4 4
23 Dominikas led
-
n4 4
24 Jappe n5 * 13
25 Jug
-
n5 15
26 ?? n7+ 1
27 Start och speed n6 * 4
28 Pi kuan
-
n5+ 4
29 Sträckfisk
-
n7-  
30 Lutfisk
-
n7  
31 Tien-Tsin
-
n7 *  
32 China corner
-
n6+  
33 Centralpelaren
-
n6+ 1
34 Travolta
-
n7 5
35 Baryshnikov
-
n6 1
36 Moses pendelton
-
n8-  
37 Nurejev
-
n6+  
38 Mowgli n4+ 13
39 Baloo
-
n4  
40 Bagheera
-
n4+  
41 Blåvitt
-
n6-  
42 Elektricitet
-
n5 2
43 Datamaskiner
-
n6-  
  Gömda väggen
45 Nagelsprickan n6 * 1
46 Fingersprickan n6- * 2
47 Brakkaminen n5 ** 2
48 Moss Crack n5  
49 Kristallväggen n5 *  
50 Tåjammet n5 ** 3
  Bakterieväggen
  Köksväggen
  Utby / Ragnhilds näsa
54 Tugga Knivar n7- 1
55 Ragnhilds Haka n5+ * 1
56 Ragnhilds Näsa n5+ ** 3
  Slabben
58 Olas Direkttransport n4+  
59 Töjbara benet n4+ 1
60 Bagarmossen n6  
61 Dagen Efter n4+  
62 Fars Dag n3 ** 7
63 Skärselden n4+ *** 17
64 Hurtigrutten n5- ** 13
65 La Traviata n4+ *** 9
66 Flygande maran n5 10
67 Undanflykten n4 6
68 Slab of Thirst n5- 11
69 Brännvinsleden n5+ *** 10
  Rönnleden
71 Rönnleden n4+ *** 13
72 Sneda sprickan n5 ** 9
73 Svåra Diedret n6- *** 4
74 Leeper n5+ 2
75 Tiöringen n4+ 1
76 Fridstöraren n6 * 2
  Monster Crack
78 Alfa Helix n5+ ** 3
79 Monster layback n6+ ** 2
  Crack of Doom
81 Återvändsgränden n6- ** 4
82 Crack of Doom n6- *** 10
83 Asterix och Obelix n5 1
  Till
85 Till n5- *** 26
86 Falken n5+ * 2
87 Luftiga Steget n5- *** 20
  Stora väggen
89 Tuborg n6+ *** 10
90 Kronenburg n7 *** 2
91 Nelds kamin n5- * 1
  Limbo
93 Boa Constrictor n6- ** 2
94 Ants in my Pants n6- ** 7
95 Panda n6- *** 4
96 Spindelapan n6- * 2
97 Vrålapan n6- ** 4
98 Babianen n4+ ** 13
99 Babianen Direkt n5+ *** 8
  Nötterna 1
101 Mirceas led n6 *** 12
102 Laybacksprickan n5- 1
  Nötterna 2
  Övre väggen
105 Tjabo n4 1
106 Spagaten n5+ *** 35
107 Spagaten Direkt n6- *** 4
108 Till Susanne n7- ** 4
109 Snett åt vänster n6 *** 5
110 Snett åt höger n5+ ** 23
111 Torrsimmet n5- 2
  Nötterna 3
  Bouldering
114 Ängsareten f5 1
115 Ängsareten Direkt f5+ 1
116 Jazzabyxa f5 1
117 I'm Chevy Chase and Your Not f4 2
118 Bögdöden f7A 1
  Moved climbs from Fjällbo
  Koskenkorva
121 Chivas Regal n5 ** 7
122 Koskenkorva n5 ** 6
123 Drambuie n5+ * 6
124 Gonzo n5- 2
125 Aquatic Ape n5 1
126 Sans och balans n5+ * 1
127 Smala leden n5+ 1
  Ikaros
129 Yo-Yo Hörnet n6 1
  Hollywoodväggen
131 Beverly Hills n7- * 1
132 Tjille Ving n7- ** 2
133 Hollywood n7- *** 7
134 Bob Hopp n6+ *** 4
135 Rosa på bete n5+ * 3
136 Sabeldans n7 ** 1
137 Hollywood Ice WI-4 ** 1
  Slowfox
139 Toblerone n6+ *** 2
140 Rittersport n5 2
141 Slowfox n5+ 5b ** 11
  Sahara
  Rabiesväggen
144 Rabies 7a ** 1
145 Dynamo 7a *  
146 Batman 7b+ ** 1
147 Stopplikt 6a+ * 2
148 Hästudden 6b 2
149 Trotskys hämnd (Trotskys revenge) WI-5 *** 3
  Kenneths led
151 Ulf och Susannes Led n4+ * 1
152 Spider Tony n6- * 1
153 Kenneths snedsteg n6- * 1
154 Sodom n5 * 3
155 Bohemia n6- ** 3
156 Kenneths led n5 *** 18
157 Blue Track n6 *  
158 Blue Track (alt. finish) n5 * 1
159 Gomorra n5- ** 9
160 Nervtrassel n5 * 1
  Bananblocket
162 Runt Hörnet n5- 3
163 Oles crack n5+ * 10
164 Robins crack n5+ *** 14
165 Tunnsprickan n5- *** 5
166 Bananblocket n6- *** 13
167 Stopper n6 ** 3
168 Svarta Diedret n5+ ** 1
169 Borta med vinden n5+ ** 2
  Café Stålborsten
171 Zoo-apan n5 1
  Skivblocket
173 Gunnars skräck n5+ *** 17
174 Kanten n6 ** 4
175 Bantaren n5+ ** 1
176 Gladiatorn 6b+ *** 3
177 Quo Vadis n6 2
178 Nero n6- ** 6
179 Caligula n6- ** 8
180 Limus bror Linus n3+ 1
  Rampen
  Supertaket
183 Trappan 5b * 3
184 Start 6a 1
185 Pinnakeln
-
6b+ **  
186 Alfa Caentauri 6a 1
  Glömda väggen
  Moved climbs from Gärdsås
  Moved climbs

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mr Andersson