Climbs 9
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 117m a.s.l
Faces S

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Crag features

A steep dirty wall rising straight from the road with as yet only one route, and a collection of lower but cleaner buttresses up the hillside away from the road. A bit of an expedition but strangely satisfying in a perverse way!

Of course, as with all Southern Sandstone, top-roping and bouldering/soloing are the only acceptable methods of ascent. There are plenty of trees for arranging topropes. Remember to extend slings to avoid moving rope coming into contact with rock.

Approach notes

The roadside buttress is at a slight bend in the road from Chiddingstone Hoath towards Markbeech, immediately past the entrance to Hoath House. There is limited opportunity for parking but it is possible a short way further down the road where it widens slightly. Belaying will be tricky owing to the presence of the road.

The other buttresses can be hard to find. They are about 300m to the east and 50m up the hill from the road. Access may require some bushwhacking and can be attempted direct from the road - or alternatively via a small track leading up the hill opposite the entrance to Hoath House. A formal garden appears to have existed at one time in the area around the track and there are some interesting remnants.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Roadside Buttress
2 One for the Road none 5b 1
  Hillside Buttress
4 Felicity Shagwell none 5b 3
Climb name Grade
5 Shaken not Stirred none 5c 3
6 Moonraker none 5b 2
7 Plenty none 4a 3
8 Groovy Baby none 3b 3
Climb name Grade
9 Pussy Galore none 4c 3
10 Diamonds are a Girl's Best Friend none 5a 3
11 Casino Royale none 4c 3

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