UKC

Climbs 22
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 223m a.s.l
Faces NE

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Rachel Slater climbing Red X (6c) at Taddington © Craig Bailey

Crag features

A worthwhile sport crag with easy access, good rock and a smattering of routes up to 18m long. More open than it used to be because the ash trees have all died. Gets into condition until early summer where it can provide an escape from the heat. Stays dry in the rain, although the belayer might not! Best routes Great Expectations (6c), Top Marx (7a), Certificate X and XXXX (both 7b).

Some routes on the left do suffer from vegetation, so take care!

Approach notes

Taddington crag is situated just off the A6, between Buxton and Bakewell. The best approach is from White Lodge car park (paid) which is just off the A6 opposite the base of Monsal Dale. From the car park, head up the road and continue for about 100m past a bus stop, mid-way between the bus stop and a clearway X sign on the roadside. A small path leads left here and gently upwards. It actually keeps going to the top of the crag and on to the bouldering spot of the Wave but, if you keep going below the crag you quickly arrive at the big cave on the left of the sport crag.

Worst crag I've been to in the Peak. Wouldnt waste your time visiting. Vegetated, filthy rock, busy road and dangerous path getting to the crag ie along the Buxton road. Definitely go somewhere else
hamer89 - 31/Mar/21
In need of some gardening, otherwise a great venue in spite of the road being so close. The cave roof is crying out for a bolted aid route.
riddle - 09/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

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