Climbs 55
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

A series of short climbs on a ESE facing outcrop, routes rarely exceed 7-8m and the buttresses are broken enough to provide easy descent routes. Ideal for a short boulder/solo session. The lines in the quarry listed below are taken as finishing at, and exiting along, the large break at 2/3 height, which marks the end of the solid. The quarry contains some good problems up to V7 and the rock is good where it counts.  There is potential for some hard lines, that will only to be conquered by some steel fingers. Take care whilst at the crag there are several loose lengths of wire down the cliff, and there is sometimes broken glass on the holds, so take care. Buttress location map (Googlemap) http://tinyurl.com/da2vsq

Approach notes

Parking is best in the layby at the top of Monks Road. To reach the crag follow the sunken path across the plateau into the quarry at the centre of the edge. Alternatively follow the road south until it is possible to head right over a stile and up a short steep path, taking the left hand stile near the top leads to the base of the northernmost buttress, whilst taking the second stile on the right provides access to the prow.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Cown Edge Quarry
2 Shrine route 1 V0 3
3 Shrine Route 2 (P) XS 1
4 Painted Devil V7  
5 Big Bobby's Big Bounce V5  
6 Off Width Anarchy Crack S 4a 5
7 Anarchy Arete Direct E2 5c/6a  
8 Anarchy arete indirect V1 3
9 Rebel's Stretch V6  
10 W for W*nker (P) XS 2
11 R corner crackline E1 5c 2
12 Project f?  
13 Rebel without a foothold V6  
14 The Devils groove VS 5a 1
15 New balls please V2  
16 The devil is here S 1
17 Reality painting V1  
18 Insurgents arete V6  
  Bulging Pocket and Flat Wall area
20 Bulging pocket Arete none 4a 7
21 Bulging wall none 4b 7
22 Bulging Wall corner none 3c 7
23 Flat wall arete none 5a 4
24 Block of Cheese HS 4c 9
25 Butter
-
HS 4c 5
26 Loaf of Bread HS 4c 9
27 Side Salad HS 4c 5
28 This way, no, that way V1 8
29 Don't snap on me V1 8
30 Tasty Top-Out V1 8
31 Don't Fall Adam, I'm Eating. V0 8
  Roof Butress
33 Cracked roof cave (P) XS 3
  Dead bird Buttress
35 Slipped block M 13
36 Corner Crack M 12
37 Zig zag crack Direct S 4a * 7
38 Zig zag crack S 14
39 Dead bird wall S 4b * 14
40 Cramming Jack HS 4c ** 13
  IP Lambs Buttress
42 Left Groove M 10
43 Left Arete VS 4c 8
44 Nine VS 5a * 8
45 Central route VS 4c 9
46 Right face (P) VS 5b 5
47 Right Arete HS 4c * 9
48 Green chimney VD 11
49 Green Arete S 10
50 Prow V0 5b 2
51 Dodo D 4
52 Rhinosaurus M 3
53 Hippopotamus D 3
54 Wednesday Night Traverse V1 3
55 Wed Derd Ball M 4
56 Walrus VD 3
57 Octopus VD 3
58 10% Discount VD 3
59 Left End Slab V1 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers michael-kenyon and Frank the Husky