Climbs 55
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

A series of short climbs on a ESE facing outcrop, routes rarely exceed 7-8m and the buttresses are broken enough to provide easy descent routes. Ideal for a short boulder/solo session. The lines in the quarry listed below are taken as finishing at, and exiting along, the large break at 2/3 height, which marks the end of the solid.  The quarry contains some good problems up to V7 and the rock is good where it counts.  There is potential for some hard lines, that will only to be conquered by some steel fingers. Take care whilst at the crag there are several loose lengths of wire down the cliff, they are just lying round, so take care. Buttress location map (Googlemap) http://tinyurl.com/da2vsq

Approach notes

Parking is best in the layby at the top of monks road. To reach the crag follow the sunken path across the plateau into the quarry at the centre of the edge. Alternatively follow the road south until it is possible to head right over a stile and up a short steep path, taking the left hand stile near the top leads to the base of the northernmost buttress, whilst taking the second stile on the right provides access to the prow.

Guidebooks

No guides found for this crag

There are no comments from visitors to this crag.
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Cown Edge Quarry 
2Shrine route 1V0 2
3Shrine Route 2 (P) XS 1
4Painted DevilV7  
5Big Bobby's Big BounceV5  
6Off Width Anarchy CrackS 4a 4
7Anarchy Arete DirectE2 5c/6a  
8Anarchy arete indirectV1 3
9Rebel's StretchV6  
10W for W*nker (P) XS 2
11R corner cracklineE1 5c 2
12Projectf?  
13Rebel without a footholdV6  
14The Devils grooveVS 5a 1
15New balls pleaseV2  
16The devil is hereS 1
17Reality paintingV1  
18Insurgents areteV6  
 Bulging Pocket and Flat Wall area 
20Bulging pocket Aretenone 4a 7
21Bulging wallnone 4b 7
22Bulging Wall cornernone 3c 7
23Flat wall aretenone 5a 4
24Block of CheeseHS 4c 9
25Butter
-
HS 4c 5
26Loaf of BreadHS 4c 9
27Side SaladHS 4c 5
28This way, no, that wayV1 8
29Don't snap on meV1 8
30Tasty Top-OutV1 8
31Don't Fall Adam, I'm Eating.V0 8
 Roof Butress 
33Cracked roof cave (P)XS 3
 Dead bird Buttress 
35Slipped blockM 11
36Corner CrackM 10
37Zig zag crack DirectS 4a *7
38Zig zag crackS 12
39Dead bird wallS 4b *12
40Cramming JackHS 4c **10
 IP Lambs Buttress 
42Left GrooveM 10
43Left AreteVS 4c 8
44NineVS 5a *8
45Central routeVS 4c 9
46Right face (P)VS 5b 5
47Right AreteHS 4c *9
48Green chimneyVD 11
49Green AreteS 10
50ProwV0 2
51DodoD 4
52RhinosaurusM 3
53HippopotamusD 3
54Wednesday Night TraverseV1 3
55Wed Derd BallM 4
56WalrusVD 3
57OctopusVD 3
5810% DiscountVD 3
59Left End SlabV1 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer michael-kenyon