Climbs 63
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 359m a.s.l
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Conan the Librarian on Mother Cap, one very early morning before work. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

The impressive square monolith of Mother Cap can be clearly seen from some distance and is usually very busy, although not with boulderers. The bouldering on its walls tends to be high and rounded but there are some decent problems and it combines well with a circuit at Owler Tor. Conan the Librarian is a classic and the landings are good so you can pad out the falls if required. It is very exposed to the weather but that does mean that it isn't green and will dry quickly.

Approach notes

The outcrops are situated near the Surprise View, on the moor behind Millstone Quarry. Park at the large Surprise View car park then leave this northwards by any one of several narrow paths. These climb steeply through the woods and past the odd quarry before popping out onto the moor. 

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Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Mother Cap Quarry
2 Mother Goosed f7B ** 2
3 Flat Cap
-
f6C 12
4 Andy Capp
-
f6C 4
5 Andy Capp Sit-start f7A 1
6 Dog Brush
-
f6A 3
7 Mother Cap Quarry Crack Left-Hand HVS 5a 2
8 Mother Cap Quarry Crack Right-Hand VS 4c 2
9 In the Night Every Cap is Black
-
f7A+ ** 4
10 Night Cap
-
f6C 6
11 Slab Far Left of Diagonal Crack V0+  
12 Slab Left of Diagonal Crack V0 1
13 Diagonal Crack D 1
14 Wall Right of Diagonal Crack VB 1
15 Just Done It
-
E5 6c  
16 Live Mountain Rescue TV
-
E5 6c  
  Mother Cap Quarry Boulder
18 Mantel Arête f6A 1
19 Left Wall f6A+ 2
20 Left Arête
-
V4 2
21 Right Arête
-
V4 2
22 Arthur’s Bulge Left-hand
-
f8A 2
23 Arthur’s Bulge
-
V10 1
Climb name Grade
24 Capoeira f7A+ 2
25 PNC f7A+ 4
26 Caps Lock f7A 3
27 Right Wall
-
V5 1
28 Roundy Wall f6B *** 1
  Mother Cap
30 Blue Cap
-
HVS 5a * 48
31 Blue Cap Start f4+ * 47
32 Elf Cap
-
E2 6a * 7
33 Elf Cap Start f6A 7
34 Oyster Cap
-
E2 5c * 26
35 Oyster Cap Start f6A+ ** 36
36 David f7B * 34
37 Conan the Librarian f6B+ *** 471
38 Thin Wall f6A+ ** 37
39 Milk Cap f3 ** 191
40 Ink Cap f4 * 117
41 Flat Cap f4+ * 36
42 Dutch Cap f5+ * 26
43 Easy Cap f2+ 32
44 Mother's Cap Back Wall f5 11
45 Mama-Mia f4+ * 17
46 Baby's Traverse
-
f3+ * 17
Climb name Grade
  Mother’s Ruin
48 Walking Gingerly f7A * 1
49 Mother's Ruin V7 7
  Mother's Pet Rock
51 Mother's Pet Arête f6B *  
52 The Blue Whale f6C * 16
53 Orca f7B+ * 1
54 Porker f7C *  
55 Mother's Pride f7B+ *** 2
56 Pet Cemetery f7A+ *** 28
57 Pet Cemetry - Ahab Link f6C ** 40
58 Ahab f6A+ * 70
59 Mother's Pet Traverse f7A+ ** 6
60 Mother's Pet Long Traverse f7B+ **  
61 Top Shelf Mantel f7A * 5
62 Moby f6B * 71
63 Proper Grit f6C+ * 11
64 Pets Win Prizes f7B * 8
65 Mini Mother f6A+ * 13
66 Mother Rib Left f5 * 6
67 Mother Rib Right f5 *  

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