Climbs 20
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 248m a.s.l
Faces SE

Crag features

Tucked away in the centre of the Estérel is this fine, rocky peak that got a great deal of attention from the early pioneers; several of the routes were put up in the early 1970s as true adventure outings. Many of their ancient pegs, concreted wire loops and huge painted arrows are still visible on the cliff. As elsewhere in the area, the better quality routes have been bolted, giving them a new lease of life. Despite this, the cliffs are rarely busy, indeed, the likelihood is that you will have the place to yourself.

The peak juts up enough to catch any wind that is going, a plus in hot weather and a minus when the Mistral is blowing. The main (southeast) face goes into the shade in the early afternoon. The crag takes little drainage and drys quickly.

Approach notes

Leave the motorway at J37 or 38 and follow signs for Fréjus. Before you enter Fréjus, turn left at a roundabout (signed 'Saint-Raphaël') to avoid the town. Continue along this road heading roughly straight on around both Fréjus and Saint-Raphaël until you pick up signs for 'Agay'. Continue towards Agay on the D100, past some golf courses. About 1km north of Agay, look out for a small road on the left, just past a field of vines and north of a big bend, signed 'Massif de l'Estérel' and turn into this. Take the only left turn to reach a roundabout and parking at the end of the road. The crag is visible from here; take the good track that runs towards it. It crosses a stream at a high stone-bridge, then bends sharply leftwards. About 170m along here on the right is an old boulder-strewn car park, and 70m beyond this a good track branches back rightwards uphill. Follow this to a minor left fork (cairn) which weaves up the hill to eventually reach a rocky area. Head out right (not obvious) to locate the continuation track that soon arrives at a col at the left-hand toe of the cliff.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Road is closed to old car park adding an extra km to walk. Walk in is up to an hour and beware instruction in rockfax, difficult to find the correct path. Keep left at the cairn and keep a look out for a very rough track that is the path up to the crag. Also wild boar about so be careful. Named Routes are difficult to find on the crag as well.
Sheila - 07/Sep/13
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Southwest Face
2 M'as-tu vu? 5c * 1
3 Les jeunes loups 5a * 3
4 Les dents longues 6b * 1
5 Plus beau que moi, tu meurs 6a * 1
6 Y'a pas de lézard 6a *** 1
  Southeast Face
8 Voie de l'arête 4c  
Climb name Grade
9 Passage du toit 6a * 1
10 Patrick déglingue 6a *  
11 Agir ou séduire 7a ***  
12 En attendent God Off 6c *** 1
13 Profit un Tyrol 5c *** 7
14 Gaston rebiffe-toi! 6a *** 1
15 La Directe 6a+ *** 2
16 La Directissime 6b *** 1
Climb name Grade
17 Nico 6b+ **  
18 Voie du surplomb 6b ***  
19 La chevauchée des vaches qui rient 6a ***  
20 Les aveaux infidèles 6a+ ***  
21 L'ame des gorges
6b *  
22 Reynolds aux 8000 coleurs 5c ** 2

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer dannyboy83