Climbs 48
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1800m a.s.l
Faces E

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Spectacular craging by the Mer de Glace © tony4433

Crag features

Amazing granite slabs above the Mer de Glace, overlooking the Drus and the Grands Jorasses, form a grandiose setting for this beautiful crag. All the routes seem to be well-bolted and are up to 220m high. A 70m rope is recommended for abseil descents. 

Approach notes

Far Left sector routes are in the Vamos guide as 'Secteur des Echelles'. From Montenvers Station, follow the red signs for 'Haute Montagnes et Refuges'. Just after the first switchback, continue following the red signs up the Mer de Glace. Decend two sets of ladders. The routes are between the bottom of the second set of ladders, and the top of the third set. La Grand Echelle is immediately right of the bottom of the 2nd set of ladders, other routes are beyond the huge boulders.

Left-hand sector: access from the steps leading down to the Mer de Glace at the base of the Mer de Glace telecabine. At the base of some metal steps is a souvenir hut (might have gone now). Go left of it, and follow a path along the slabs with a handrail (marked with yellow dots) to a platform dotted with boulders at the base of the routes

Right-hand sector and Grands Voies: follow signs for Les Mottets (initially same as the red signs for the high mountains), passing underneath the cable car descending to the Mer de Glace. Where the path leaves the top of the moraine, and drops lefttward into a gully, stay on top of the moraine. After 20m or so, an indistinct path leads down to the top of the big sweep of slabs, where bolt belays and abseil points can be found.

 

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Far Left Sector
2 La Grand Echelle 5b 16
3 Adieu Siberie
-
5b 4
4 Buddha-Bar 6a 10
  Left-hand Sector
6 Birdy 6c  
7 Free
-
6b  
8 Brune-Cass
-
6a * 1
9 Encorp
-
6a 1
10 Fissure Velue 5c 4
11 Roc Dream
-
6a 2
12 Vol sans escale
-
5c 7
  Right-hand Sector
14 Paul et Mique 5a 4
15 Yesterday 4a 2
16 El maestro
-
5c 4
17 On ekeep cool
-
5b 2
18 La source
-
6a+ 3
Climb name Grade
19 Crédit Horticole
-
6a  
20 Le Ciel serait kaki
-
6a  
21 La Romaine
-
6a+  
22 Boréal de Madrid
-
5c  
23 Le Toune
-
5b  
24 Paradise Bird
-
5c  
25 Y'a des jours sans
-
5b  
26 The end
-
6b * 2
27 Joshua free 6b  
28 Si les cons volaient
-
6a+  
29 Les dorifores 6b  
  Grande Voies
31 Coupe de boule 6a ** 2
32 Pérou fils 6c  
33 Josiane 5c *** 9
34 La Palais des Glaces D- 2
35 La Grand Echelle 5a **  
Climb name Grade
  Adieu Siberie
37 Le Palais des Glaces
-
5a  
38 Vertical Tango 6b+ 1
39 Bhudda Bar 6a ***  
  Aspirant Sunrise
41 La Commedia dell' arte 4c  
42 Ziquemur 6b  
43 Danton 6a+  
44 Sostene et Calzone 4c  
45 Pilier des Rossignols 5c  
46 Mesomolecules 5c  
47 Glace-nost 5c  
48 A la Bastille 6c  
49 Ah dur dur! 7a+  
50 La Direct 7b  
51 L'arandelar 6a+ **  
52 Fin de la Glisse 6c+  
53 Acide Lactique 6a+  
54 La Plage Blanche 5b  

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