Climbs 50
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 386m a.s.l
Faces W

Crag features

Probably the least-interesting cliffs described here, being rather scruffy and featuring some polished rock and an excess of chipped holds. Despite this, the cliff is accessible, well bolted, in a sunny situation and has a decent spread of grades, so is good for a short session. It is popular with local school groups and can get very busy, check the number of vehicles in the car park on the way past.

The cliffs face south though the trees do offer some shade from the sun, the crags are well sheltered from cold northerly winds. The amount of hillside above the cliffs means that they seep after wet weather and are slow to dry - the other crags in the area are a better bet if it has been wet in the past few days.

Approach notes

From the last roundabout in Draguignan (by the hospital) follow the D955 into the Gorges du Châteaudouble for 4.7km. Shortly after the gorge narrows and the road becomes twisty there is a wide track on the right, just round a right-hand bend - park here. ** In February 2016 the road at this point was permanently closed to all traffic and pedestrians. Good news for climbers as identifying the parking place is now easy and space is plentiful! (Claudia, Feb 2016)** For the Roadside Sectors follow a path just above the road (orange spots, up a short rocky step) to reach the cliffs in about five minutes.

For the Gros Roucas Sector continue up the rough track. 200m beyond the water tanks and 90m after some postboxes a path branches left by a boulder with cairn. Follow this then fork left up a steep indistinct track to the base of the cliff - about 10 mins from the parking by the main road.

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Guidebooks

France : C?te d'Azur

Côte d'Azur covers the famous cliffs of Calanques, Sainte Victoire and the Verdon and also includes some of the great venues around Toulon, the sunniest city in France. Plus there is the popular winter venue of Châteauvert, the less well known Esterel and Châteaudouble area. Add in Saint Jeannet and a selection of cliffs in the Nice area and this will become an essential volume for any climber.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Ch?teaudouble - Escalade en Drac?nie (2004)
Sandbag central!
Rog Wilko - 22/Oct/11
A handy little crag, reached from the road in 5 min. BUT - seems like it's Sandbag Central! Keeps the shade till about 2 pm. At present (Oct 2011) the road through Chateaudouble Gorge is closed, but you can still drive up as far as the car park for this crag. Road block about 50 m beyond.
Rog Wilko - 16/Oct/11
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Les Fées
2 La fée clochette 4c * 1
3 La fée clochette Extension 5a *  
4 Il était un voie 4a * 1
5 Il était un voie Extension 5c *  
6 Les fées du logis 4c * 6
7 Les fées du logis Extension 6b *  
8 Purple Wings 4c * 4
9 Purple Wings Extension 6b+ *  
10 Toites de fée 4a * 4
11 Toites de fée Extension 6b *  
12 Nombre sept 5a 6
13 Nombre sept Extension 6a+ *  
14 La fée des noeuds 6a  
15 La feé d'hiver 5c * 4
16 La fée d'hiver Extension 6b *  
  Lower Tier
18 Vol au dessous d'un nid d'aigle 5c * 1
19 Taxite trois 6a * 1
20 Le petit blues 4c * 1
21 Yakalafaire 5a * 1
22 Pente douce 4a * 1
23 Zaapète 6a+ * 1
24 Fidèles au poste 5c *  
25 Vieilles nouvelles 6a * 1
26 Télétubbies 6a * 1
27 C'est pas sorcier 6c **  
28 Zap sur zap 6c+ *  
29 Zappicîme 6a+ *  
30 Club Dorlotée 5a * 1
31 Que le zappeur gagne 4c * 5
32 Zappeur sans reproche 4a * 12
33 Fort Braillard 5a * 10
34 Météorites 6c * 1
35 Mais t'es haut 5c *** 13
36 Fa, si, la grimper 5a ** 7
37 L'homme qui zappe plus vite que son ombre 4a * 6
38 Rebouillon de culture 5a ** 7
39 Un faux du matin 5a * 1
40 Prise d'info 5a * 4
41 Nul bar ailleurs 6a * 4
42 Destins animés 6a ** 2
43 Zappeurs pompiers 5c * 1
44 Zapper la vire 5c **  
45 Pensée cathodique 6c **  
46 Zappe-dors 6c ** 1
47 Sauce zappeur 7a * 1
48 Télé footue 5a *  
  Gros Roucas
50 Botanicus 5c **  
51 Peau d'eléléphant 6a ** 3
52 Ceil sauvage 5c ** 1
53 Histoire san fin 5c *** 2

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