UKC

Climbs 100
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 725m a.s.l
Faces S

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View from El Flare crags Abdet, Costa Blanca © Dick Gerrish

Crag features

Beyond Guadalest the new coach-road reverts to a more-usual narrow gauge as it winds up into the hills on its way over to Alcoi and the interior. There is a lot of rock up here, and as ever, much of it is undeveloped. Tom Phillips has adopted the Abdet area over a number of years and has done much to develop the climbing in this corner of Spain. Here is a small selection of what is on offer, check out his website for details of a lot more climbing in the local area, plus some useful accommodation www.abdet.com.

The cliffs described here generally face south-ish, so are a good bet on clear calm winter days. They can be cold if the weather is grey or windy, and they will be hot in the summer despite being at an altitude of around 600m. The rock isn't the quality of Sella or Toix, and much of it is very sharp. Despite this, there is plenty of good sport hereabouts, and it is another venue to add into the mix.

Approach notes

From the coast, follow the CV-70 past Polop all the way to Guadalest (20km). Turn left and continue (still on the CV-70) for another 6.5 km to a right turn to Abdet. Drive down over the river. After 700m, a concrete track branches off left - this is the approach to the crag (the no ntry sign is for vehicles). 100m further round the bend is parking on the right-hand side of the road with room for few cars.

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Last updated on 22/Jan/2021

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Guidebooks

Spain : Costa Blanca

Spain : Costa Blanca

 The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Roca Espana: Costa Blanca Sud (2018)

Update Guidebooks
Jabali sector is very popular and everyone seems o enjoy that, very little loose rock around that area now. The main crag is more serious but there are some excellent routes to tackle.
Tom Phillips - 05/Jan/18
After reading the generally positive comments about the Abdet crags, we were quite disappointed in the quality of the rock there. It's really not worth the drive up, as the limestone is generally quite poor and loose although the area is stunning and the views are beautiful.
rexybo - 13/Sep/15
We stayed in Abdet knowing there was a smaller crag near by. We traveled around quite a lot to lots of bigger more well known areas with so called top 50 climbs, only to find my favourite area was the Abdet crag. Well bolted routes, no polish and not busy. Perfect couple of days climbing!
mattbighead - 03/Apr/13
started at the jabali lower pinnacle which was ok; tried to move up to 'high buttress' but it is seriously overgrown. Then went off to 'main wall' which was much better, and super-easy to get to. will be back.
Jonathan Emett - 16/Mar/12
Nice climbing. No polish. Easy access.
hollybank - 11/Apr/11
Great routes, well bolted and lacking the polish that many areas of Spain have. Good range of routes and grades with more being developed all the time.
Flannery Lovell - 08/Mar/11
Some very interesting routes, well bolted and I'd love to have a beer with Tom to discuss the grades.
andif - 11/Feb/11
Great climbing for those in F5-6 grades. Rock very good, even the suspect stuff is solid. Until we met up with Tom we had Crag to ourselves, fabulous views, well bolted warm and sunny on 2nd Jan, what more can U ask for.
steve_foster - 06/Jan/09
Nice climbing with shade available. Very well bolted and no polish with easy access. Say no more ! A quality venue well worth seeking out.
biscuit - 24/Aug/08
What a nice place to climb! Well bolted routes (lower off's you need to thread your rope), nice easy 10 minutes walk from Abdet, we only climbed on the Jabali pinacles, belay in the shade, next time main crag, loved it.......... Stu
Stu Tyrrell - 03/Jun/08
Some great routes and excellant rock here - usually better than they look - but there is still a lot of brittle rock around and a little too much vegetation
Chris the Tall - 11/Feb/08
If you like good unpolished rock in quiet and unspoilt surroundings then this area is well worth a visit. There is a mix of sports and trad. I spend three days there just after x mas 06 and enjoyed long single pitch (up to 35 m)sports routes, and even completed a project with permission from the friendly 'local' Tom Phillips. I will be back again, bringing my rack to do some trad (proper!) climbing.
JulianMaund - 15/Jan/07
We stayed for a week in Abdet and spent a day climbing here but could easily have climbed for several more. Fantastic rock quality, lovely well bolted single pitch routes and an amazing setting. Well worth a visit.
Andy - 04/Oct/06
Last week I visited these crags with two fellow climbers. We climbed on Jalbi upper and lower pillar, in the grades 4+ to 6a. My fellow climbers thought that the routes and quality of rock were superb.
Bru - 02/Oct/06
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